Yeh, some jackfruit have those types of leaves. Learned that from here pretty recently.

Custard apples drop there leaves once a year for me.

http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=21289.msg260430#msg260430
Check out that post

Har, (Guanabanas) is the annona expert here so hopefully, he can give a few suggestion.

Sugar apple seems to grow more compact than the rest of the annonas I'm growing.
Most of the more widely grown ones don't become monsters (at least from what I've seen in Florida) so I don't think you can go wrong with any.

Try to get some of the new firm sugar apples making there way around.
Atemoyas are always good but I don't know what will produce in your greenhouse, seem like we in Florida don't always have the best of luck with atemoyas that do well in SoCal.
Cherimoya are excellent but you make need to wait and see what the SoCal members suggest.
I personally am fond of A. reticulata as they are nice and creamy but I have yet to eat an Ilama which I hear is better.

"Atemoya" is a coined word--- a made-up word.  This word was made by "hybridizing" two words to make a new name for a new type of hybrid plant, which was produced by cross-pollination between "Ate" Annona squamosa and "Cherimoya Annona cherimola, regardless of which species was seed parent or pollen parent.
So even if double-cross resulting in 75% squamosa/25% cherimola or 75% cherimola/25% squamosa, it's still called atemoya?

I think we refer to that as annona hybrids

The only reason I'm considering going is to get some of these new hybrids.
I don't know how long it will take for other nurseries to start carrying them.

I have a canal bank that needs some extremely disease resistant mango, I wouldn't mind trying the hybrids there

I'd stay away from lychee.
Those little red fruits are so inviting to thieves.

I agree with loquat and Kwai Muk

I assume they are selling their new release exclusively at the mango festival.
I wonder how long it's going to take before the show up at the normal nurseries?

I can't comment about cold tolerance but it seems pretty vigorous to me.

Here it is 2016 a little after I planted it.
Maybe around 1.5ft


A year after:
Maybe 3-3.5ft


I'm going to update my yard post later this month but now its more than double this size.
I'd expect next year if it doesn't hold fruit it would be around 15ft

You likely won't see any deficiency symptoms for some years. You may be fine on Ca. In my case, I have about 9 inches of compost muck throughout the entire orchard, and the feeder roots live exclusively in this zone, since it's moist and fertile. Once you have spread a few hundred cubic yards (a couple dozen truck loads), then you will have to start worrying about deficiencies :-). For now, you will likely see some improvement in tree healthy due to reduced competition, greater moisture retention, etc.

Quote from: skhan on January 10, 2018, 01:27:32 PM

So I finally got around to mulching my yard. (3 truckloads)
I'm using it primarily for the ease of mowing in addition to the normal thing like building soil.
I still have to spread it and push it away from the trucks, I'll do that soon.

Concerning fertilizer, what I gather from other members is it may be prudent to add Gypsum along with the normal fertilizer routine, as I plan to do this once a year.
If I read the threads correctly, its to balance the Ca to other nutrients ratio.

Is there anything else I should do?

Thanks, Jeff,
I think I'll have to do one truckload a year to maintain the grass free area.
Alteast until the trees cast enough shade.

I haven't fruited a sugar apple yet...they don't seem to grow well for me.
I would assume as the purple ones grow larger, the will turn red.
As for the green ones, I guess that's a product of sexual reproduction.
The red color may be a recessive trait.

Looks like lobate scale - depending on the level of infestation I've seen them do serious damage to the nutrition of a tree, going so far as to kill off branches that are heavily infested. There's really no 'organic' cure to them other than hitting the tree with soapy water and then scratching them off with your fingers (if the tree is small enough). I guess you could use a systemic pesticide but I try to avoid that as they only seem to attack fruiting trees in my yard.

I agree

38F in the early morning hours here.
No blooms yet so I guess thats good

We have been mulching heavily for over a year straight everyday.  Short answer, yes, you can over-mulch.  As Zands mentioned, excessive compaction can deplete O2.  It can also cause too much moisture in the soil or prevent adequate moisture from penetrating.  The other caution with heavy mulching involves heat.  Thick composting piles can generate staggering temperature spikes which I believe can cook tender foliage.  Mulch will breakdown quickly depending on material type and precipitation so you can go much thicker than 3" for the initial layer.  I would however leave a couple feet around each tree, that way you can apply the appropriate amount of mulch around the trunk/rootzone.  At least this is what we are doing for younger mangos.

I wonder if throwing a few bags of perlite around before adding a new layer will help with compaction?