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Messages - BahamaDan

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 6
1
BahamaDan, I see very green grass under the tree, right up to the trunk!

Check for WeedEater damge to the trunk.
Check to see if this small tree is a dog's habitual place to pee.
Check for high-nitrogen fertilizer's having been applied to the grass.

Guanabanus, you're right about the grass. I thought it was clover so I left it but upon recent examination it appears to actually be Oxalis.

We don't own any weedeaters, we just mow around the perimeter of the trunk.
We have no dogs either, we do have an outside cat though.
We also don't apply any fertilizer to our plants (bad I know lol).
Any other possible explanations for the partial dieback?

2
Good day, adding this post to this thread instead of creating a new one since my query seems to fall under the heading. I did some grafts of mature mango scions onto a seedling mango a week or two ago since it's a couple years old but has never flowered, and I was checking them a couple days ago. The ones I have checked so far haven't taken, but more importantly I noticed what appears to be some sort of dieback on the leaves. It's affecting a fairly significant number of leaves too, has anyone had anything that looked like this?



I should mention that the dieback has been there for a while probably, I just never actually looked at the leaves specifically so it didn't come to mind. The leaf parts that haven't died still seem healthy, so not sure what's causing the partial dieback. No sooty mold or other fungal problems on the tree that I'm aware of, although there's an older established fruiting mango about 15-20 feet away that doesn't have the leaf partial dieback issue but does have some sooty mold on a couple lower branches. That one seems to be growing fine overall though and is presently flowering.

3
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Graft mango question
« on: June 28, 2016, 11:18:43 AM »
The more practice you get with grafting, the better your success rate. Much of it is about timeing like fyliu says. I like to prepare my scions by removing the leaves and waiting for buds to start swelling before grafting.

Unlike fyliu, I have had excellent results with extremely aggressive rootstocks. I simply remove most or all other branches so that the plants best bet is to push the grafted scions. I like to use rootstocks that are showing some sort of growth in progress as this tells me the sap is flowing.

Simon

Simon do you remove the branches before you graft the scion to the rootstock, or after you have grafted and the graft has taken but before the scion flushes growth? I have a four year or so mango seedling that I'm thinking of grafting a couple mature scions onto a couple branches of, in order to hopefully get some fruit.

4
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Spondias fruit question
« on: June 17, 2016, 01:19:49 PM »
Yea sometimes it's a waiting game lol, is that yellowest one from your tree too? Also ours aren't shriveled so not sure, do you water the tree?

5
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Spondias fruit question
« on: June 15, 2016, 12:13:05 PM »
Oh okay, they do look a little differently than mine, more shriveled I guess, but still very spondiasy. I'll try to remember to upload a pic of mine later. They do root stupefyingly easy, I literally just broke a branch like wrist thick off my grandma's tree and stuck it in the ground at home and a couple weeks later it started pushing leaves, smaller cuttings would work too I'd think. Probably root one in the other part of the yard before you cut the tree down, just in case.

6
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: best tasting guava ?
« on: June 15, 2016, 12:04:21 PM »
GUAVAS ARrrrghhh.

My first year growing ruby supreme and pink were pest free, had lots of delicious fruit but the next year scale got to them big time.

I really like them but till recently have had terrible luck with scale that I could not control.

Not long ago I started using horticultural oil in addition to strong stream water spraying and hand scraping scale off and I seem to be gaining some ground.

My lemon and strawberry and Alahabad (the Alahabad has not fruited) all seem immune to scale but do get fruit fly larvae so the fruit get bagged.

My pinks, and Mexican have rebounded and set some fruit. The ruby supreme (my fave) is hanging on but no fruit. My Thai white languished so I put it out of it's misery.

So, being a glutton for punishment I found a silly expensive 3 gal. Barbie pink hoping to make a go of it.

This is my last ditch effort to have guava, fingers crossed.

I thought there was a program in Florida for the eradication of the fruit fly?

7
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Smallest fig?
« on: June 13, 2016, 12:19:04 PM »
Okay, how much watering and fertilization do you have to do to get figs that size?

8
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Smallest fig?
« on: June 10, 2016, 04:28:03 PM »
My best friend and I both have a Violette De Bordeaux fig in a pot for about 3 years now and both our trees produce lots of super tasty figs on a small bushy tree. If you look up VDB, most pictures show a tiny fig but with good fertilization and watering, the fig gets much larger. Here are some pictures of a couple VDB figs that are almost ready, they are not fully black yet. In certain months, the figs are much smaller, this is the first crop of the year and I started harvesting a couple weeks ago.

Simon





That's pretty impressive Simon, what size pot is it in?

9
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Spondias fruit question
« on: June 10, 2016, 04:18:27 PM »
Okay, based on Google ciruela can refer to either the spondias purpurea (red one) or spondias mombin  (yellow one). Since don't seem to be ripening up yet they're probably the mombin, mine are still green and hard too but I know it won't be till towards the end of summer till they start to ripen.

10
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Spondias fruit question
« on: June 10, 2016, 10:20:21 AM »
Ciruela is the local name? The red ones are starting to ripen up here already, while the yellow ones here don't ripen till closer to the fall, maybe late August or September

11
Very impressive greenman, its good to see so many plants are growing so nice for you. A couple questions: does your Mexican Cream Guava get fruit fly? I just bought a small one a couple weeks ago but I remember my grandmother's tree used to have little worms in the fruit, it hasn't put out guavas in 10+ years or so though so not sure if that would still be the case. Does your LSU Purple Fig have fruits that are holding? I bought that exact variety last summer, its in a 12 or 13 gallon container and was putting out some figs but after the last bout of rain we had when I checked the tree all were gone. Lastly, do you know if mulberries need frost to fruit reliably and well? I'd like to get one if not, and I've seen them in stores but don't think I've ever seen one grown by anyone here so not sure if they can be. Again, great yard!

12
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Does these Caimito look healthy
« on: May 25, 2016, 12:52:45 PM »
Since you're in coral springs, you very likely have 6 - 12 inches of 50 / 50 mix (sand + muck) on top of limestone rubble. You can lower the pH of the top 6 - 12 inches, and that is sufficient for feeder roots of your trees which normally only dwell in the top foot of soil.

If you have a normal 1/4 acre lot, 50 to 100 pounds of sulfur is good. But be very cautious around annonas -- go light on those, as they seem to be sulfur sensitive. The other species don't mind sulfur.

You may not need iron. The soils that I've had tested in this area (northern broward) have sufficient iron. You just need to get the pH down.

Consistent application of a complete fertilizer (with micros) does wonders.

None of what I've said above applies to most of Dade county, where marl is the most common soil.

Just fertilized it today. I can throw some sulfur on it to. How much? My soil has a lot of limestone so don't think it's going to reduce the pH substantially.
What about iron drench?

So what would apply?

13
Once I knew how to look for them I've found seeds in all the pineapples store bought (Dole etc) here and in the US.

14
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Issue on leaves
« on: April 21, 2016, 03:15:36 PM »
In South Florida, it is a year round battle with leaf miner.  I recommended to drenching the tree, and any other citrus you have, with imidacloprid 3 times a year.  The affected leaves will not change but the new flushes should come out clean.  I would also add to your regime to spray with copper fungicide.

Are you using the same strength as per bottle directions, but 3 times a year, or a third as strong as one bottle-direction application but thrice yearly?

15
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Soursop Pollination
« on: April 15, 2016, 04:03:26 PM »
 Wow, they look delicious already.

16
If the male tree you intend to get the branch from flowers around the same time as the female tree, most likely the mwle branch will also flower around the time as the female branches of the tree once grafted onto the female tree.

17
Is your name a portmanteau of Teemo?

18
My Soncoya, going on two years.





What's this mulch round the tree?

19
Mark what do you use to measure the pH of your water after you add the acid?

Hanna pH meter Checker 1.  Cheap on ebay.  You MUST have the calibration solutions.  I buy a liter of each which lasts a long time.

Ok thanks. Funny you should mention calibration solution as I bought 4 7 and 10 pH solution along with some pH strips. They work perfect in the solutions but don't really register a change in my water, something about the TDS/EC being too low I guess. I'm gonna try the pH liquid indicator drops next since they don't seem to require that the solution have a lot of salts in order to give a good readout.

20
Mark what do you use to measure the pH of your water after you add the acid?

21
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: One time use Chelated Iron EDDHA
« on: March 18, 2016, 01:55:04 PM »
The good thing about iron is that it is really tough to overdo it.  Of all of the major, minor and micros, it is the only one that I know of that you really can't overdose on.  May not solve your problem, but won't make it worse either.  I'm a fan of foliage pro, looks deficient, hit it with foliage pro.

Good points.  Been using Foliage Pro for years.  Used it as a foliar spray on my vineyard last year.  Not that the FP was to blame but out of 195 vines I allowed to yield got a record 3.050 lbs. of premium quality.

Was that meant to be a comma after the 3? I feel bad for you if you only got 3.1 pounds from 195 vines :(

22
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Some photos of my mountain jungle.
« on: March 16, 2016, 02:51:06 PM »
PR you bananas look very nice; do you still use the system where you pile grass into an open-bottom garbage bin in the center of a block of mats for fertilizer?

23
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: One time use Chelated Iron EDDHA
« on: March 16, 2016, 01:28:32 PM »
I'm still not sure how much of the Iron EDDHA to apply? I diluted some in water and watered a couple plants with no response after a couple weeks, but I probably didn't get the concentration right.

24
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: One time use Chelated Iron EDDHA
« on: March 16, 2016, 01:26:57 PM »
7.5 to 2  lol.

I don't think I'm aiming for quite that low lol, but I collected a couple trashbags worth of casuarina needles the other day to try laying down around some of my fruit trees so hopefully it works well. Most of them have grass right up to the trunk so I'll probably have to put down something to smother them under the needles.


25
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Mature Mango Trees Without Bloom 2016
« on: March 11, 2016, 09:55:49 AM »
Driving around Broward County I see lots of mature looking mango trees with no budding or minimal budding. Seedling trees grow larger faster so they might be seedling trees.
My #2 opinion. You will get delayed panicles and fruits on Tong-Bi-Con....... not off season but delayed. I will bet $100 on this. Mango trees can have second blossoms in late March that bear fruit. Am I wrong bsbullie?

Just curious if you are saying the TBC will push pannicles late because of the specific variety or just due to it being a mature tree and the conditions we have had in general.

Yes, it is possible to have an additional bloom later this month or in April but usually if the mango had not already begun its internal process, something would most likely need to trigger it.  The problems i have seen with late bllom that are into April is the warming temps,  or even hot temps, can have some adverse affects on the fruit setting and holding.

My lone mature tree bloomed last year January on one half of the tree, and the other half in March. This year one half is just barely starting to push blooms now, with nothing from the other half yet so it may have a case of a second bloom in mid to late April. There's no difference in conditions on either side of the tree so not sure why it blooms like this.

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