Just a FYI.... The yo yo amazon price matching has affected osmocote plus pricing...

(It may change again in a few minutes/hours/days to another lower price as most have noticed with amazon price matching rapidly one way & then the other)...

Osmocote Plus Outdoor and Indoor Smart-Release Plant Food, 8-Pound (Plant Fertilizer)  has increased from $14.86 to $19.87
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GTDGMHC/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I have a seedling tree guven to me by a neighbor. It has been 4years in ground and still no fruit. Thinking of digging it up. Pretty 8 foot tree but unproductive. It gets regular water, is mulched and fertilized. Now sprouting new leaves.

https://www.crfg.org/pubs/ff/loquat.html
Again, my guess as to why yours has not flowered = too much fertilizer (loving it) & vegatative growth.
"Fertilizing: Loquats benefit from regular, light applications of nitrogen fertilizers, but too much nitrogen will reduce flowering."

Sidney, your close to me & climate is about the same as mine so low odds of this, but will include it::: "Where the climate is too cool or excessively warm and moist, the tree is grown as an ornamental but will not bear fruit."

Topic::: Loquat recommendation

For those considering nice looking shrubs/trees close to the house:::

I was just thinking about some of my loquat seedlings that have grown very fast compared to my other trees/shrubs. The seedlings taste good when eaten not light yellow (tart) but slightly orange. I do not water mine except when watering jaboticaba near a few of them and they survive in S. Florida climate through the dry periods. With frequent weekly watering/rain they grow fast with the addition of light fertilizer. The jaboticaba and other cherry varieties have dropped from my favored list due to the high amount of water required to get them to fruit and keep them green.

My recommendation (other than mango trees) is to consider loquat seedlings vs. other small plantings around the house if you want a tropical green look that is also a hardy fast sunblock for morning/evening sunlight on an area around the house. These trees have nice green leaves and fragrant blossoms. They are also considered a hard wood and used in Central America for posts and wood per Wiki. 

In case someone wants to try making a wine brew, I thought I would show the progress of the 3 x 5 gallon must buckets mulberry + Sugar at 72 hour mark after adding yeast and just completed stirring. This is considered the aerobic phase when most of the alcohol is produced and the yeast are peaking in activity. I stirred it with a long wooden handle knife and it's enough solids to still stand up in the solution with the mulberries surrounding it. Hydrometer is also present in the must floating to a degree. I just place a linen cloth over the 3 buckets to help keep bacteria, other yeast, etc. from falling in the buckets. This will proceed for another about week and 1/2 and then remove most of the sediment/dead yeast/ etc. that will be left on the bottom and place in air lock (or you could put in any bottle with loose top if doing like the guy in the youtube video) bottle and rack multiple times for improved clarity and decrease chance of sediment from altering taste or drink when ever you desire including the sediment as it will not hurt most like me except for increase chance of passing gas forming yeast through the intestine. ha. Also, most of the alcohol will be made before 14 days from yeast inoculation.

https://www.ttb.gov/wine/24_75.htm
Sec. 24.75 Wine for personal or family use.

(a) General. Any adult may, without payment of tax, produce wine for personal or family use and not for sale.

(b) Quantity. The aggregate amount of wine that may be produced exempt from tax with respect to any household may not exceed:

(1) 200 gallons per calendar year for a household in which two or more adults reside, or

(2) 100 gallons per calendar year if there is only one adult residing in the household.

(c) Definition of an adult. For the purposes of this section, an adult is any individual who is 18 years of age or older. However, if the locality in which the household is located has established by law a greater minimum age at which wine may be sold to individuals, the term ``adult'' will mean an individual who has attained that age.

(d) Proprietors of bonded wine premises. Any adult, defined in Sec. 24.75(c), who operates a bonded wine premises as an individual owner or in partnership with others, may produce wine and remove it from the bonded wine premises free of tax for personal or family use, subject to the limitations in Sec. 24.75(b).

(e) Limitation. This exemption should not in any manner be construed as authorizing the production of wine in violation of applicable State or local law. Except as provided in Sec. 24.75(d), this exemption does not otherwise apply to partnerships, corporations, or associations.

(f) Removal. Wine produced under this section may be removed from the premises where made for personal or family use including use at organized affairs, exhibitions or competitions, such as home winemaker's contests, tastings or judgings, but may not under any circumstances be sold or offered for sale. The proprietor of a bonded wine premises shall pay the tax on any wine removed for personal or family use in excess of the limitations provided in this section and shall also enter all quantities removed for personal or family use on TTB F 5120.17, Report of Bonded Wine Premises Operations. (Sec. 201, Pub. L. 85-859, 72 Stat. 1331, as amended (26 U.S.C. 5042))

Today, after completing my treadmill walk,  I went outside and am now enjoying a few mulberries under the mulberry tree canopy.

My wife made some mulberry juice from a few extra bags removed from the freezer. I was surprised that the freezer taste had disappeared and it was good.

I still prefer eating fresh over frozen.

The dense foliage you mentioned is also beneficial since by June you can barely see the mangos at all.  Do you thin your canopy at all by removing some of the more significant structural branches?  If so, when? 

I'm hesitant on removing leaves/limbs etc. until fruit ripen. Removing leaves etc. early may decrease available sugar levels for the fruit and I definitely want mine sweet also. The only exception is occasional removal of a small piece for grafting to another mango tree.

Normal thinning for me is after fruit have been taken from tree and/or if needed for an unexpected hurricane. But since the foliage is so dense, I believe it is less likely for a limb to be blown off during a hurricane vs. mangos like ice cream that are lanky.

I have a lower and more rounded shape than your tree and have even let the limbs touch the ground with no apparent problem except for spraying needed as you mentioned for fungus. I have not experimented with thinning out the center of any of my Carries but may try it after this harvest to try to decrease the blackening of the limbs. The main reason I have not tried it is you hate to mess with success when they are growing and bearing mangos.

Yesterday I was cleaning out the freezer, I did eat one frozen Carrie mango that I had bagged last year. Unfortunately, I only had one as I ate the rest of those long ago. 

Black mulberry season is on and Mango is around the corner.

Wife & I removed all the frozen bags of Mulberry this morning from last year and organized the remaining bags of frozen mango for consumption before the mangos start in my yard I'm guessing middle of May (later this year). We will not freeze mulberry again as only used about 2 bags to make some mulberry muffins and many many more were left from the freezer. I tasted a few and they were not good compared to the fresh ones on the trees now.

I filled half of 3 five gallon must buckets with slightly thawed mulberry and added enough hot water to cover them with about 4 lbs of sugar in each. I have also added about 1/8 tsp. of potassium metabisulphite and I tried to stick my hands in and squish them a little like squishing grapes; but presently it is just too cold....  So I told my wife I guess it's about 40 degrees... Wrong... Checked & 32 F.

Tomorrow or late tonight I will finish squishing them and will then inoculate the wine yeast strain into the buckets and start the yeasts happy little growth spurt. Sampling will be mandatory beginning 7 days into the experiment prior to racking and I will gladly volunteer

I personally prefer my mulberry wines to my mango wines; but both are good for a nighttime glass and not to be turned down.

The taste of frozen mulberry in my opinion is way inferior to off the tree mulberry and only good for cooking/wine etc. 

The taste of many of my frozen mango in my opinion are like eating peaches if you let them warm to room temperature and very good.

Soooo, if you have a freezer it's probably time to rotate/use/discard many items as fruit season is near/here...

Thanks for the info spaugh, it looks like wait a few months & they may have your desired combo if not already present on another website... quite a variety...

http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/product/osmocote-plus-15-9-12-fertilizer/fertilizers

This page gives you a choice of 4 different delay choices of 15-9-12 using the new 3rd generation technology (if needed)...

3-4 Month MSDS (PDF), 3-4 Month Info Sheet (PDF)

5-6 Month MSDS (PDF), 5-6 Month Info Sheet (PDF)

8-9 Month MSDS (PDF), 8-9 Month Info Sheet (PDF)

12-14 month listed on page
higher prices however...   
$110.00 — 12-14 Month Release, 50# Bag
$119.00 — 3-4 Month Release, 50# Bag
$110.00 — 5-6 Month Release, 50# Bag
$132.00 — 8-9 Month Release, 50# Bag

Funny, but it almost sounds like the computer chip manufactureres.... 1st generation, 2nd generation, 3rd generation, etc. etc. etc. I don't know what generation is in my computer I'm currently typing on .... but it works. 

I've used this before and been happy with it for potted plants: https://www.amleo.com/osmocote-fertilizer-15-9-12-slow-release-8-to-9-months-50lb-bag/p/159128/

Says 1 to 5 bags for $99.99/50lb + $27.99 shipping for 1 bag to my zip.
              Vs. 1 bag 8lb amazon $14.86 + free shipping if 2 bags or greater. buying amazon multiple bags comes to 50lb for $92.875 using ratio & breaking small bags open.  However the plus bag Does say reapply every 6 months (says polymer coating) & has minerals vs. regular bag without minerals reapply every 8-9 months (says encapsulated within multiple layers of polymeric resin). Unknown if same or different resin coating but similar sounding.
Presently much cheaper to buy 2 or more 8lb bags from amazon on price alone & especially with free shipping and added minerals (if desired).

The 40lb bag of HD Vigoro citrus/avocado on 40lb size recommends fertilizing more frequently so not so slow slow release vs. other 2 choices:::  When to apply: apply every 4-6 weeks during the growing season for in ground plants and every 3 months for potted plants (funny being longer for indoor so I guess sunlight or moisture from daily dew breaks down the slow release characteristics faster on this choice...............Then again, leave the pots outside & complain when it doesn't last 3 months... ha.......Then again, maybe pots are part of the slow release function per the manufacturers home depot listing and you must buy them separately...    ha ) https://www.homedepot.com/p/Vigoro-40-lb-Citrus-and-Avocado-Plant-Food-162125/203089345  .......And the deal Clincher listed to sway your purchase of Vigoro is "Use around other plants: safe to use around other plants"....     We all sincerely hope soooo.... 

I am not advocating you try this as I have not tried it as I only grow a few coconut trees around my house and have done little supplementing in my soil near the coconut trees. I may try adding some lower levels of borax/potassium but have not yet and it appears it takes 3-6 months to evaluate the results seen in the plants with changes so I will go slow to my additions of elements.

Hopefully a professional coconut grower will give their opinion, but I am not one.

You probably have the same opinion that I have if considering adding plant supplements, choose lower known values and increase to a higher if needed as removal is often difficult or impossible without plant death. If you already have your potassium level where you think it will be ok, you can still consider the addition of the borax.
Borax and potassium oxide were used in the report:  http://krishikosh.egranth.ac.in/bitstream/1/5810000191/1/Nakka%20Sathi%20Babu.pdf   on page 28

Notation for the treatments Levels of boron and potassium
• T1: B1K1 25 g borax/palm + 900 g K2O/palm
• T2: B1K2 25 g borax/palm + 1200 g K2O/palm
• T3: B1K3 25 g borax/palm + 1500 g K2O/palm
• T4: B2K1 50 g borax/palm + 900 g K2O/palm
• T5: B2K2 50 g borax /palm + 1200 g K2O/palm
• T6: B2K3 50 g borax/palm + 1500 g K2O/palm
• T7: B3K1 100 g borax/palm + 900 g K2O/palm
• T8: B3K2 100 g borax/palm + 1200 g K2O/palm
• T9: B3K3 100 g borax /palm + 1500 g K2O/palm

page 28

Continue monitoring levels of the other Ca, Mg, Cl, Na, etc. etc. etc. and soil ph, moisture soil & atmosphere, aeration soil & atmosphere, light source, temperature, etc. etc. etc.

 

https://apsjournals.apsnet.org/doi/full/10.1094/PDIS-03-16-0271-RE

"White sapote is not a preferred host for the psyllid (Halbert and Manjunath 2004; Westbrook et al. 2011). Since this plant is grown in California by rare fruit growers and horticulturists, mainly in regions where citrus is cultivated, and it may act as an alternate host for HLB, regulatory precautions are warranted."

Bought some of that toxic red mulch
https://tinyurl.com/y9nnugxz

How about some mini version of ground penetrating radar to locate feeder roots?

If I buy the "toxic red mulch", maybe I'll luck up and get some Iron oxide, & copper. My plants are scared with the cooler weather, extra watering, and forum talk and said they wanted to decrease their odds of getting bacterial & fungal infections & wanted some more copper for translocation between trees 

I'm gonna skip the ground radar & borrow the pot sniffing police dog to smell for those fungi tubules branching off the roots for exact watering locations.