I would reduce the canopy before the move, the city of Fort Lauderdale moved a 100yr old oak with success. They  trimmed it in two stages, I cant recall the time frame.

Quote from: knlim000 on September 28, 2016, 06:40:42 PM

heehee i missed that too.   I thought tree was 45ft.

Quote from: knlim000 on September 28, 2016, 12:28:40 PM

maybe you can rent one of these https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3IpUhMImWGo

That is definitely quite the machine you got there...
Looks like the whole town comes out to watch that thing in action...

And the saga continues...

I won't do this if this will kill it but I need to move a mango tree 30-45ft. The trunk is 5 inches in diameter. It has been in the ground for 5 years. It is a sweet tart if you are curious.

Successfully digging up and moving its large root ball will be impossible. The soil covered root ball be too heavy to drag 30-45ft on a tarp. Lots of the dirt will fall off no matter what I do. And these dirt clump will tear roots when falling off.

That sounds pretty easy to move for me. That is not at all too heavy for me to move with the dirt root ball.
1. Cut the roots all around volume desired to move.  This is the hardest part. The more roots clipped, the easier the move and doing it over a few days will probably help with getting new root growth started while old roots are still feeding the tree.  Of course keep it moist while your working to help the roots stay alive and try to regenerate.
2. dig extra slope toward areas to move tree to
3. place tarp, slippery plastic etc. next to up right tree and then tilt tree toward slope onto the edge of tarp/plastic with tree now at about a 45 degree angle.
4. wrap 2 to 3 inch thick car tow rope around trunk of tree next to base of dirt. 
ex.  http://www.harborfreight.com/2800-lb-capacity-2-in-x-20-ft-heavy-duty-tow-strap-61943.html
5. hook other end to truck, van, car.
6. place in 1st gear
7. go very slow to destination
It's amazing how much weight a truck/van/car can easily pull just have someone watch the tree as it is moving and simply slowly drive it to its new hole.
But, keeping it alive is always up to you.

Hopefully all in South Florida still have mangos on the tree to pick. 

If not, consider these or other Keitt mangos as I consider them great tasting. They have been on the tree for a long long time unlike the early and mid varieties and much more fungal growth. However under the skin, they are great. You just have to know a little carving work is worth the reward of having and gathering these late season mangos. Very sweet and very tart. I used almost no fungicides this year, I may try to get them externally prettier next year but it is not a taste or a true concern of mine, only relatives and other people.

You can see some final splitting and some of this is due to fungus weakening the skin, some due to rain,  and some due to the seeds starting to sprout while still on the tree. The seed is monoembryonic and perhaps Squam256 is correct that they are keitts however the weight is 1.2 to 2 lb on all of these and the Keitt tree I bought had all 3 to 4 lb on it. Also the keitt tree produced poorly and these smaller green mangos are prolific. The taste is close but obviously different. Maybe some of that gene drifting occurring with these smaller green mangos.

These small green mangos also don't get (or very very seldom) the bacterial invasion from the bottom point of the fruit like my big Keitt mangos (which tastes bad and often follows the seed internally making saving 2 of the 4 lbs difficult). The small green mangos taste excellent after removing the split & sprouting areas.

Don't let your mango season end early... 

Caesar: "I came into this thinking "how could I make pig farming a greener endeavor?". And the thread's idea was born."

The few grumichama I've had have been far better than any surinam cherry I've tried yet, including one of the better dark varieties.

Quote from: DurianLover on April 23, 2016, 01:38:01 PM

Quote from: strkpr00 on April 22, 2016, 08:16:37 AM

My tree produced just two first fruits and I really liked it. Pretty close flavor vice to northern cherry. In fact liked it so much that I'm raising those seed for few more trees to plant. But if the season is only like a week, I should reconsider.

My grumichama ripen up together within a few days of each other for the most part. But I've had 3 separate crops off of just one shrub this year alone. I'm not sure this is the norm with every Grumichama but I'm not complaining about 3 separate crops in 4-5 months and ~20 grumichama each crop from a 7gal container plant.

Grumichama ( I have 7 trees , that must tell you something ) 

I had a Grumichama tree about 20 years ago that was firm fruit and delicious sweet and yes similar to northern cherries. I planted it in a low spot thinking it would be from the rain forest and would be fine in occassional flood area and unfortunately I was wrong and it died completely. (I guess it grows on slopes with daily rains being best and good run off as fruiting occurs with daily watering in the spring).

I have now planted 3 trees and none are as good as the one from 20 years ago. (I've had nursery people think I was nuts in liking Grumichama and I just think they have never had a good one). Fertilizer and 2-3 years in the ground has helped the flavor somewhat. I still consider it superior to the 2 Barbados cherry bushes that I have (my Barbados are not sweet only tart).  I also consider it superior to my 1 Cherry of the Rio Grande.  In some years over the past about 5-6 years with these 3 Grumichama trees; they have been mushy and not firm and maybe it was the fruit fly but I did not look at the mushy ones. I just ate the others on the tree that were firmer. If you find someones tree/bush that truly taste great and it may, try to get it as I think there is a lot of variability in the fruit from different plants.

Last spring I was able to get them to bear fruit twice by daily watering it on its mound after finishing its earlier fruiting about a month prior. The berries do ripen pretty much together within about 10 days for mine.

After fruiting is over, I seldom water it but occasionally the leaves will droop if above 90 F. I was actually surprised it needs so much water as the leaves seem sort of waxy and beautiful when watered, but when planted on my mounds, it occasionally needs water. So try to go as low as you can in planting at your site just as long as water will not back up around the trunk would be my guess for my next attempt and I probably will try again to find that perfect plant that taste great.

The Barbados Cherry bush has a very long season with pretty red fruit and would be a good choice if you either like tart, like vitamin C, or just like having fruit on a bush to impress the relatives/friends when they drop over for many months of the year.

I'm forgetting about my Strawberry Tree (obviously not a cherry but is a berry). It's  similar to Barbados Cherry with a long long season of about 6 months. The berries are smaller and red but these are sweet in the center with the red skin a sharp tart amount but overall sweet if you just throw a hand full into the mouth. The flowers look like strawberry flowers but smaller and that is my guess for the name. Small kids love walking under it and picking the red berries and eating them. But, it's very hard to get filled up on these small berries. So, it's another good choice with little pests as the berries are good every year, just small. 

Feeding such food to pigs, which would eat plenty of foods that are not palatable to humans and are cheap and easy to produce, is an INSULT to the starving.

Caesar, I see no way that your use of Permaculture can be interpreted as you INSULTING a starving person in another part of the world nor anyone else using permaculture, regardless of type of crop.   

I now see why you responded in such a long response to Livingparadise...

Livingparadise, do you wish to recant your statement???

Thank you all for the detailed information of labeling, slicing, & discussion of factors such as root stock etc. possibly affecting the results. Also the conclusion that the best picture (taste) is always in the eye (taste buds) of the beholder. It is also amazing how little fungus is on the California mangos vs. in Florida due to the humidity etc. Your mangos look beautiful. 

I also like a sweet taste and am personally willing to sacrifice some of the other tart,sour, or citrus type tastes to obtain the more sweetness usually. It is interesting on some mangos like the Philippine small mango how when eaten greener it is tarter with much less sweetness, however in my location when riper and yellow it almost loses the tart taste with only a sweet taste left. This sweet tast in my opinion is good but in this case not as good as the sweet taste of my small Okrung Tong mango which is very sweet and good with a hint of lime when still showing a little green however it will progress and almost lose the lime hint but the sweet remaining is still outstanding imo. Thus for my phillipine mango I prefer eating it partially green but for my Okrung Tong mango either way is actually equal as the lime hint is great and if left a few days the remainging sweet taste is outstanding imo. Are any of these varieties similar as to when prefered eating stage at greener vs. riper? Also any to watch out for with a small window to eat before jelly seed etc. like the Kent with a rapid degrading of taste imo when jelly seed occurs suddenly? Of course you have a big list of mangos and it would take a long time to comment on each, but any favorites or commonly talked about ones would be appreciated to comment further on at what stage believed best to eat in your opinion and also if believed short window of best taste before believed degradation etc.

As far as the Keitt mango goes if there is such a thing as an under estimated Mango that doesn't get it's full respect with hard core fruit geeks it may be the Keitt.  It often gets taken for granted & tossed into the "just another average commercial variety" category by the mango elites when in fact it is a good reliable dooryard variety that is still putting good tasting fruit on our tables in Sept/October when all other varieties have faded away and gone the way of the Dodo till next year.

I firmly believe that Keitt is a "top 5" must have tree in every small dooryard mango collection to extend the season.  For all practical purposes it stands alone as the best all-round very late variety with very good basic flavor and can be eaten green if that's your thing.  IMHO it's also the best tasting Mango you are likely to usually "commonly" find at your local big chain grocery store especially compared to a TA.   It also helps to financially support the mango growers families for another couple of months when they would have had to otherwise close up shop till next year.

Let us all take a moment to bow our heads & hail the Keitt Mango!!!

;
Agree 100 % and the Keitt is like one Grouper size fish; so pleasing to catch and quckly clean and eat vs. filleting many small Grunts.

Ahhh, the poll changed after the voting started... Too bad more candidates will not appear spontaneously before or during the upcoming U.S. presidential election...    

Make sure to wear long sleeve shirt / long pants / face shield when you're applying copper, even if you're using an OMRI listed (organic) product.

I know I have drank water from copper pipes for many years as well as handing cents and now copper fungicides so I decided to look up copper uses and toxicities for our bodies.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Copper_in_health
1. Well, I found too little copper in the body can be a copper deficiency. Acquired copper deficiency has recently been implicated in adult-onset progressive myeloneuropathy[55] and in the development of severe blood disorders including myelodysplastic syndrome.[8][56][57]

Other conditions previously linked to copper deficiency include osteoporosis, osteoarthritis, rheumatoid arthritis, cardiovascular disease, colon cancer, and chronic conditions involving bone, connective tissue, heart, and blood vessels.[7][58][59][60][61]

A marginal (i.e., 'mild') copper deficiency, believed to be more widespread than previously thought, can impair human health in subtle ways.[51] Those affected suffer from lowered resistance to infection, general fatigue, impaired neurological function, and elevated risk for coronary heart disease and osteoporosis.[citation needed]


2. Copper Toxicity:::   While the cause and progression of Alzheimer's disease are not well understood,[citation needed] research indicates that, among several other key observations, iron,[68][69] aluminum,[70] and copper[71][72] accumulate in the brains of Alzheimer's patients

3. Dermal exposure was considered low risk in the chronic exposure category as far as I could tell:::Dermal exposure has not been associated with systemic toxicity but anecdotal reports of allergic responses may be a sensitization to nickel and cross-reaction with copper or a skin irritation from copper.[9] Workers exposed to high air levels of copper (resulting in an estimated intake of 200 mg Cu/d) developed signs suggesting copper toxicity (e.g., elevated serum copper levels, hepatomegaly).

4. Ingesting::: Hopefully none of us will drink the blue kool-aid...      Humans intentionally or accidentally ingesting high concentrations of copper salts (doses usually not known but reported to be 20–70 grams of copper), a progression of symptoms was observed including abdominal pain, headache, nausea, dizziness, vomiting and diarrhea, tachycardia, respiratory difficulty, hemolytic anemia, hematuria, massive gastrointestinal bleeding, liver and kidney failure, and death.

It is interesting that copper has some use as a possible antiinflammatory agent::: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2945467/

It's also interesting in that I don't know if I have too much copper and need to ingest or absorb more into my skin or too little copper in my body. (The same goes for my yards soil) (I see that cookie monster has tested his soil for copper in a prior post).   

Congratulations on the sale.

Now that it's over, where are you moving to for your fresh fruit and vegetables? Any pictures of a new farm home? 

This looks like a type of ripeness I was not looking for in the last portion of the two part url. I was looking for an encyclopedia of fruit but now do not want to try the first part of the two part url listing. Please edit if needed....  Do you need to edit this???

I was looking for a library copy of CABI's The Encyclopedia of Fruit and Nuts by Jules Janick and Robert E. Paull, and I found this pdf.

www.fitoica.com/ContentPages/2476053199.pdf/url]http://s3.amazonaws.com/zanran_storage/www.fitoica.com/ContentPages/2476053199.pdf/url]
[/quote][url=http://www.fitoica.com/ContentPages/2476053199.pdf/url]www.fitoica.com/ContentPages/2476053199.pdf/url     ??
I see you mentioned you found it on the internet...

Sugar-Apple?  Bush shape is good for Sugar-Apples.

Atemoya?  Check into why the leaves are so small:  Needs more fertilizer (Nitrogen and Zinc, especially), or needs insecticide to kill potato leaf-hoppers, if they are present.

Well... If you want a bush it looks fine, but if you want a tree you're gonna have to train it.

I have an atemoya. soursop, 2 sugar apples and 2 custard apples, all wanted to grow like yours, but I want trees not bushes, so...

Early on I trimmed off all of the low branches, tied it to a stake and as it grew I tied the new growth to the stake. Once it got to a height I wanted I cut the new top growth to force branching.

I have 2 sugar apple trees now. I have never been concerned for the shape either way until recently. The bushy sugar apple does not turn the fruit ripe, with the heavy leaf shade, nearly as fast as the tall lanky more tree shape sugar apple. Also, the tall lanky tree bears more fruit; But it is sitting over the septic field and the bushy is not. 

I am considering opening up the bushy sugar apple over the winter to see next year if more sun in the center of the tree may be better. Has anyone else experimented with altering the growth habits of sugar apple trees?