Have had wells sunk in St Augustine, Jax and Pensacola.  Shallow wells under 50 feet are good for irrigation but will usually have sulfe/iron  issues. Ive got two wells in Pensacola each 1/5 of a mile from salt water. Went down 40 and pull sulpher water ph 5.5 and 180 and pull almost perfect water with ph 5.7.   Florida in general has a very high water table when compared to other states. Tapping into artesian water or not doesnt matter unless you want really good drinking water. 

For growing Citrus ive never heard of issues using well water for irrigation in my areas anyway.

I have never found a single seed in any of the Florida or  ali grown Shiranui and I have  consumed many many pounds of these fruits over the last few years.

I had 12 in one fruit which Im saving to grow or give away. I think the growers in Cali are carefull not to allow cross pollination. Like the Halos and Cuties in the store. I remember reading somewhere that a grove owner  got upset when he  found out there was another citrus variety near the border of the grove..  Im not sure if Dekopon is supposed to be seedless naturally.. how would it reproduce.

Tom you will find support on the question of why citrus taste sweeter with changes in the temperature here: ( From my favorite researcher- LOL) - Millet
http://www.irrec.ifas.ufl.edu/flcitrus/pdfs/short_course_and_workshop/factors_fruit_quality/Koch-Production_and_Environmental_Factors.pdf

Excellent read. Im closing up the greenouse at nights now when we get cold here. Initially I had determined to test the cold hardiness of the plant but now see that cold actually keeps the sugars in the leaves instead of sending it to the fruit.Very informative. Thank you. Makes sense now-- the roofs are closed in the later stages of bearing in Japan to increase the sugars sent to the fruit. Good stuff.

Depends on the fence- wood,  chain link, block or stone?  I planted Navaho thornless Blackberies along a south facing chain link and used the fence as a trellis. Considered self supporting they are easy to handle and weave in and out of the fence. Had amazing yeilds without thorns.  However  you will have to pull it all out as the flora canes have to be removed the second hear and cut back. For a hands off situation..  Ive had great success with morning glories on a wood fence. In under a year  the fence was completely covered (6foot by 75 long) Had good looking flowers year around except dead middle of winter. The fence disappeared..literally.  Google morning glory fence pics for a reference..

Tom after looking  finally found this correspondence from the above cited article :

Rick Aleman
MARCH 27, 2016 AT 12:45 AM
Hello, Could you share what the temperature is in the storage shed and for how long the fruit is kept there?
REPLY
dragonlife
MARCH 27, 2016 AT 3:05 AM
About two months under 15 degrees Celsius and in a dark well drafted place!

The grower is selling these as Dekopon in Japan at a brix above 13...

Here is the link
https://shizuokagourmet.com/2012/03/28/dekopon-oranges-producer-nobuhiko-onuma/

Tom-go to the bottom of the page in comments. It appears dragonlife is the author of the article.

 

 The directions show a large range of fruits and vegtables. Mixed in solution in a one gallon sprayer for citrus controls miters and fungus related issues

Both sides roll up 8 feet. Side walls measure 10 feet tall. In zone 9a necessary to vent all heat as the green  house will be covered year around.

My in ground 4 year old grafted Dekopon tree set 15 fruit this year.  Most all were set on the same side of the tree causing the tree to lean hard in that direction.  It was necessary to support the tree to return it to standing position.  The fruit are huge, and presently beginning to turn orange.  The temperatures in the greenhouse has been running 75+- day, and 50 night.  It produced one fruit last year that I picked to soon.  The taste was good, but clearly not ready. I'lll wait until at least January before tring this years crop. I also have a 4 year old Dekopon growing in a 13 gallon air root pruning container.  Its fruit started to color up about a  month ago.   My understanding is that a Dekopon tree needs to be thinned out to allow sunlight to penetrate throughout the foliage, in a manner  much like a peach tree in order for the tree to continue to well.  I'm not exactly sure what that means, but I guess I'll find out. My Ponkan tree is absolutely loaded, with too many fruit to count.  Unfortunately, because ponkan is an alternate bearing variety, next year being the off year should only provide a fruit or two.   I've read that if the on year crop is thinned way back so that the tree does not expand so much energy, then one can expect a crop on the following off year.  However, I decided to take the big crop this year, and live with what happens in 2017..  This is the first year my in ground Valentine Pummelo set fruit (just 2) so I'm looking forward to a much larger crop next year.   I also have an older Valentine growing in a 20 gallon container that stated fruiting several years back.  If you never tasted a Valentine Pummelo your really missing something. Lastly, LaCasaVerde, tell Darkman Millet said to get over to this web site and at least say hello.  Tom, Darkman, and I all attended the Southeast Citrus Expo together the year it was held in Alabama, which gave us an opportunity to know each other. - Millet

Happy Thanksgiving!
Im in off year for the Ponkan with 2 fruit. It is alternate bearing.  I watched a video on pruning the Dekopon the other night and came across an interesting side note. It appears the Dekopons fruit quality is directly connected to the amount of rain/irrigation ts receives during the summer.  I cross referenced this found a correlation to the fruits sweetness. I have a sandy soil with water table at 3-4 feet. The root system must then have a constant supply of water if it goes down that far... Id say something is working because the fruit Isampled the other day was outstanding. Ill include some pics next post.
Im also going to learn about this Valentine Pummelo you mentioned. I would definitely add one to the collection if it is as good as you say. Ive never tasted one. Are they sweet? Ive noticed in other posts that you top height was 11 feet in the greenhouse. Im assuming your planting dwarf citrus?
 I just finished mine here. Built it myself over a year. It is LaCasaVerde by name and is an Orangarie by design 16 feet peak gable with both sides completly roll up. When closed ventilated with intake and exhaust to pull all are at one min interval. Unlike others, Ive designed it to be flooded by 1000 gallons of water, not for irrigation but for evening heat. Ive found in another greenhouse I built that 3 ibc water totes heated in the greenhouse then released on the floor provided 5-8  degrees of heat rise but more importanlty provided it uniformly accross the greenhouse andacted as a temperature curve buffer dramatically slowing heat loss at night. The the next day the solar gain in the green house is absorbed faster into the ground and released the following night. This process is only done during extreme cold weather events usually only lasting 3-4 days here at most. Once warmer air moves in the side walls can be raised and humidity released allowing the greenhouse to dry out again. In this one I have inground Hamlin,Blood, 2 Deko and a Navel/ As well as potted Bananas, Cherries and Papayas. Ive found that the high wall design is much more efficient and practical as my citrus are not dwarfs and will fill it in a few years.
 I will pass on the invite to Darkman. He did mention that you both were in Alabama during our conversation. Reminds me that I need to trade a Dekopon fruit fro one of his xie shan as Id like to taste. My xie shan is too you still.
Also - you mentioned your Dekopon leaning. I stake and tie off all my citrus  for the first few years. This way they dont lean when laden with fruit initially. Ive found that after a kimbrough I has started leaning one direction with fruit, the root system contiued to grow compensating. When I did decide to stake it and tie of the trunk it was more difficult to correct.

Second that. Something really neat about peeling the first one.... wish I could time it when they are ready but I cant stop from pulling a few early just to see.

Here is why you water trees before the cold. Few nights ago had temps down to 33 degrees at ground level. I have 8 remote sensors in my orchard set at ground level.  Unwatered Owari Satsuma at base registered 33.4. Watered blood orange tree next to it registered low of 35.2. Wet soil not only raised the temperature of the ground beneath the tree by cunducting heat to the surface more efficiently - it also releases that heat around the base of the  tree near the graft allowing a few degrees of protection. This was a constant finding as I had placed 4 at bases of unwatered citrus trees and 4 at bases of watered trees just so that I could understand this principle. All four watered trees were warmer by 2 -3 degrees range. 

In warmer zones-mine 9a water will not freeze below ground level. As well when water begins to freeze it releases more heat.

hmm. Xie Shan I have as well. Another grower here in Pensacola said his xie shan was the cold hardiest of the bunch he had. We had 1 19 degree winter night in 14 that killed a lot of citrus. His xie shan was  not protected at all and was unfazed.  Montgomery.... Are you protecting yours in the winter? Or no? Id like to stop the cold framing here if possible on the satsumas/mandarins  anyway.

After your post I looked up kishu. Looks like a cutie sold in the store but smaller. How has its cold hardiness been for you there?

Congratulations , sounds like it is going to be very good for you in Pensacola ! I could not wait until December 12 for the next taste test. Maybe a week or 10 days with the cool nights we are having ! Tom

Thanks Tom. How are yours going there?Ripe yet?  It seems for me anyway all my satsumas are late ripening this year. Somewhat sweet but still all 50 percent yellow to green ratio. Perhaps a few more weeks.