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Messages - Millet

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26
 
There are almost no reasons to prune a young citrus tree.  Congratulations to you and this tree.  As it is said, "Good things come to those who wait".

27
Citrus General Discussion / Re: pomelo/grapefruit
« on: May 08, 2020, 05:32:06 PM »
 When pummels are dry, there are many factors that can be responsible.  A common cause of dry fruit is when they are left too long on the tree after they are fully ripe.  If a tree receives too little water while in fruit, this can cause drying.

28
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Shiranui at CCPP is very seedy?
« on: May 08, 2020, 11:39:38 AM »
I have a 5-year old in ground Shiranui tree that produces quite a bit of fruit, plus I have over the last several years purchased shiranui fruit from the supermarket, and have found 2 seeds in all that time.  I suspect Oolie is correct, concerning the lesser amount of sweetness in American grow shiranui fruit.  I do not know if local grown shiranui are stored warm for 40 days to lower the acid and raise the sugar.  I also suspect that the American grown fruit trees are not pruned in the same manner as a peach tree is pruned, to enable high levels of light into the interior of the tree, and all sides of he fruit as is the case in Japan.  The fruit I have purchased in the local stores are good but not as sweet as Japanese fruit.

29
Citrus General Discussion / Re: "Tangerine" ID
« on: May 07, 2020, 10:56:35 PM »
Oolie, I  don't have an answer to your post.  However I would like to clarify the word "tangerine".  Although the word tangerine is commonly used by people, it actually has no legal nor authorized meaning in citrus nomenclature.  The word tangerine came into common use early on, because the early mandarin shipments into the USA were imported from Tangiers, thus people called them tangerines. The word is probably here to stay in
 people's minds and will probably stay in use.

30
Citrus General Discussion / Re: how to prune
« on: May 07, 2020, 11:44:34 AM »
Citrus tree growth is upright in most varieties. During the first years, there is no need to prune, since research has shown that any cut to a young tree reduces root growth.  This is due to the equilibrium between foliage and root system.  A citrus tree is a biological unit.  Heavy cuts on a young tree discourages canopy growth and delays the tree to  come into bearing.  After a few years, depending on the speed of the growth a selective canopy THINNING may be carried out.  The choice of branches to eliminate is based on the concept that any space within the canopy must be covered by only ONE branch. It is not wise to let surplus branches occupy the same aerial space. It is important that thinning does not deplete any canopy sector. A harmonious citrus tree grows to an almost round shape.  Vegetation free canopy spaces must be avoided since they reduce yield.  In citrus areas such as the United States, Brazil, etc. pruning is either practiced rarely or not at all.  Unpruned trees come into bearing quickly and yield crops for many years. After many years of growth crops are reduced and fruits become smaller.  This is the time to make heavy cuts and renew growth. 

31
Citrus General Discussion / Re: citrus location - will this work?
« on: May 05, 2020, 02:34:57 PM »
Fir bark chips can be found at any larger pet store sold under the name ReptiBark.  ReptiBark can also be found on Amazon.

32
Citrus General Discussion / Re: citrus location - will this work?
« on: May 05, 2020, 11:29:14 AM »
"Potting soil", which is basically just another word for peat moss, and adding perlite is not a good medium to grow a citrus tree in.  Peat should NEVER be the major ingredient in any growth mixture. Such a mix retains too much water, and not enough oxygen.  This is the reason that storms trees are not producing new growth.  High peat moss mixes have killed potting plants for years. Over time peat moss soon packs, restricting oxygen to the root system. The number one mixture used the world over contains three ingredients, either bark, peat and perlite, or bark peat and builders sand.  Bark, being the major portion of the mix, provides both spacing for oxygen and water flow.  Laaz uses turface, which is acting as the bark, the ingredient giving a medium good aeration.

33
Citrus General Discussion / Re: citrus location - will this work?
« on: May 04, 2020, 10:10:59 PM »
Storm wrote .'I've lost everything that I tried growing on the balcony so far".

Reading this sentence the very first thought that entered my mind was, the type of medium your trees were growing in.

34
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Citrus greening advice
« on: May 04, 2020, 10:47:38 AM »
Oncorhynchus, thanks for the information and the results of the oak leaf treatment on your  citrus tree.

35
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Citrus greening advice
« on: May 02, 2020, 08:44:50 PM »
Research over the past year at a University of Florida greenhouse in Fort Pierce showed that citrus trees recovered from citrus greening when sprayed and drenched with treated water twice a week for two months. The water was treated by steeping chopped oak leaves in it overnight, allowing leaf compounds to leach out, according to the published findings.

36
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Spaneet citrange?
« on: May 01, 2020, 09:27:25 PM »
Never heard of it.

37
Oolie, what do you mean by the term subterranean scale?  For horticultural oils to work, it has to coat the insect's body.

38
Vlad the concentration I use is 50 grams (1.8 oz.) per gallon of water.   I have used it both with and without an emulsifying agent.  The emulsifying agent, when used, is Tween 20 (TW-20).  The brand name of the horticultural oil that I always use is Ultra Pure Horticultural Oil.  As a side note, the sprayer I use is a 3-gallon  Solo back Pack sprayer.  Whether I add a emulsifier or not I frequently shake the solution to ensure a uniform blend.  I cannot fully reply to Sea Walnut statement of damage to other trees.  All I can say is that personally I have never seen any damage to any of the varieties that I have sprayed, certainly not citrus.  There are many types of horticultural oils on the market.  Some with grater and lower impurities.  I always purchase Ultra Pure HO, as it is the best of the best.

39
Citrus General Discussion / Horticultural Oil For Insect Control
« on: April 30, 2020, 09:59:15 PM »
For a complete elimination of insects listed below, and for ultra safe personal protection, use a good horticultural oil.  It eliminates most all common insects that attack citrus. Can be sprayed between 32F to 90F.  Insects NEVER become immune, no matter how often or how long horticultural sprays are used.  Be sure to keep ingredients (water & oil) blended while spraying

Insects killed:
Rust mite, red spider mite, scales, white fly, thrips, mealy bug, aphids, Greasy spot, loosening of sooty mold.


40
Citrus General Discussion / Re: huge fukushu kumquats
« on: April 30, 2020, 09:35:14 PM »
The more fruit a tree produces, the smaller the fruit become.  As UCR recommends for a larger harvest, spray low biuret urea 2 months prior to the tree's bloom.  This will increase fruit production.  More production smaller size fruit.

41
Citrus General Discussion / New HLB Areas In California
« on: April 30, 2020, 04:20:03 PM »
A new finding of huanglongbing (HLB) has been reported in a residential citrus tree in the city of San Bernardino, California. This is the first confirmed find of the citrus disease in the city and follows the recent detections of several HLB-positive trees located in Colton, Montclair and Ontario.

42
Citrus General Discussion / Re: huge fukushu kumquats
« on: April 30, 2020, 11:29:03 AM »
The fruit's quality and size show the care the tree received from the grower.

43
Citrus General Discussion / Re: branch die off
« on: April 30, 2020, 10:44:46 AM »
Young citrus trees frequently have some twig die back.  This is one method for a tree to keep the root vs foliage balance in equilibrium.

44
Citrus General Discussion / Re: all the containers come out tomorrow
« on: April 29, 2020, 03:44:25 PM »
I've learned long ago, no matter what size greenhouse one builds, it is not big enough,

45
Citrus General Discussion / Re: all the containers come out tomorrow
« on: April 29, 2020, 12:33:22 PM »
brian when you wrote that you intend to prune only one major branch per year, is this  concerning the in ground trees?

46
Citrus General Discussion / Re: all the containers come out tomorrow
« on: April 28, 2020, 10:18:40 PM »
If you prune, don't prune 100 percent of a trees branches if you want the tree to produce fruit.  Blooms/fruit develop only on the new wood.  Pruning removes new growth.

47
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Identify Pest on Ponderosa Lemon
« on: April 27, 2020, 10:53:58 AM »
To avoid leaf damage caused by insect feeding on the earliest stage leaf development stage, one must remove feeding insects from the tender growth.  Thrips and aphids and even mites feeding at this leaf stage cause the leaves to be come deformed.  This deformation remains for the leaf's life. I use a horticultural oil spray program, usually spraying three or more times over the leaves first couple weeks of life.  Even a thorough washing from a hose water spray every couple days seem to work quite well.  What approach on does, what is required is to ensure that all damaging insects are removed from the new growth.

48
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Citrus greening advice
« on: April 25, 2020, 10:54:46 PM »
Looks to have the symptoms of HLB.

49
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Identify Pest on Ponderosa Lemon
« on: April 25, 2020, 01:37:25 PM »
Deformed citrus lives can definitely be caused by leaf miners.  It is also very common for new leaves to be deformed by  insects, such as thrips or aphids, feeding on young leaves at the very earliest stages of growth. This type of damage can be avoided by spraying the new growth with either a horticultural oil, soapy water solution, or even a strong water spray to remove the insects.  Spraying every couple days to remove the insects eliminates the problem. Once the leaf is damaged it will remain damaged throughout its life. 

50
The reason why removing the top most bud, called the apical bud, works to promote lateral branching, is because the apical bud releases a hormone called indo acetic acid or IAA that is spread down the shoot to all lower buds causing them to either stop all growth, or at least to grow very slowly. This is accomplished by IAA inhibiting the growth hormon cytokinin.  By removing the apical bud, the IAA's signal stops, thus the growth hormone cytokinin is no longer inhibited, therefore new lateral growth will quickly begin.






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