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It is ironic than I am on the other side of the equator and have rambutans, mangosteens, durians and canistels ready for harvest at the same time.
What a beautiful spread of tropical fruits. I have a question. I don't get to see fresh durian often. The ones I have seen in the store here in Southern California have a golden, light brown color. Your monthong has a green appearance. Is it just the characteristic of monthong or do you pick them green then let them ripen off the tree?The monthongs were not picked. They dropped from the trees. That indicates they are ready. Different varieties exhibit different colors at time of ripening. I keep the monthongs a couple of days after they drop and then start to get golden and ready to eat.
Thanks for your input.
Felicidades Oscar, looks good. Interestingly, our secondary season is just about to begin. We keep walking by the durians, looking at the nice amount of fruit in the trees, but not yet. Same with mangosteen, Langsat, Keple, pulusan, etc. I guess we are about 4-6 weeks behind you.This is still first season for the mini durian. It seems to be rather late bearing compared to all the other durians i have. The monthong is having a light second season.
Pacific coast CR generally doesn’t get a harvest at this time as they don’t have a dry time around September and they are dry now. So, those folk are waiting on our durians too!
Peter
Looks delicious. Do tell more about the eggfruit.
Taste of I. spectabilis is very good, and lots to eat. One of my favorite ingas.Ive read that inga spectabilis gets 100 feet, is that correct.
Maybe it can in its native habitat? I haven't looked it up yet. But i would doubt that it would get that big at your place. I have a couple of specatbilis that are about 13 years old and they are about 25-30 feet tall.
what about the taste?
You can't delete, but you can hit modify and remove all the text and leave it blank.It's not a question of "they", it's a question of "us".Yes, i think a lot of people burn their plants because 1 hour of sun is very different from 4 hours of sun.When reading cultivation descriptions written by others, we need to know how to interpret them.
It's not a question of "they", it's a question of "us".Yes, i think a lot of people burn their plants because 1 hour of sun is very different from 4 hours of sun.
Okay, interesting. So it looks like I should break "light shade" off from the pack, and merge "dappled shade" in with "part shade".None of these are really precise terms. So it would be good to also give a little further explanation, just so they know exactly what you mean.
So it would be a sugar apple crossed with an atemoya (which itself is A. squamosa x A. cherimola), making it 75% squamosa and 25% cherimola, but still called an atemoya. Right?No. I think what they mean by Annona X is atemoya which = Cherimoya crossed with sugar apple.
Dappled shade = filtered sunlight. The kind of condition that you get when you use shade cloth. That is very different from full shade, where no sun shines through, or partial shade, where you may have shade for x number of hours and sun for x number of hours.
Wouldn't there be different levels of "dappled shade"... like 30%, 50%, 70%, etc.?
Can you clarify? Haven't read the study yet. But imidacloprid is usually used as a soil drench. And here you say 85 days after spraying? It would seem to me that as a systemic drench it would stay inside the whole plant, not just the fruit, for a lot longer than 85 days?I am not sure what actual studies have been done but since application are said to be good for six months. On the other hand, bees do not feed on mango flowers.Since Ficus hedges don't normally get to flower around here, treating them with Imidacloprid is unlikely to harm bees, so long as no flowering plant's roots are also there.
Coconuts flower throughout the year and are heavily visited by bees. Treating Coconuts with Imidacloprid or Safari is likely going to kill many bee babies.
I will be mostly treating the ficus hedge and 3 coconut palms. The palms were recently trimmed by the arborists that maintain the trees here in my neighborhood so there are no flowering parts left on the trees. I could easily cut off any emerging flowering 'branches' on the palms and snip off any emerging flowers from other fruit trees to protect the bees.
The question I am considering is whether 4 months after the application the imidacloprid could it found in mangoes next year after the flowers begin to emerge in February/March and will the bees be killed that long after ?
Hi Rob, Sorry that wasn't clear it was two separate thoughts:
Would mangoes have levels of the imidacloprid that could be harmful (I know they are pollinated by flies ect)
And would the bees be harmed 5-6 months later ? (As I would removed my citrus blooms during that time frame if needed)
I know this is an old post, but wanted to respond to this, question, since I have been doing research on imidacloprid , which I recently purchased for my wife, and her ornamental plants. of the commercial insecticides, it seemed to be on the lower end of the toxicity spectrum for humans.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23196371 this study has found that 85 days after a spray, there is no residuals in the fruit. so it seems to me that, the best way to use this insecticide ( if one really needs it ) is right after the tree has flowered, this will protect the bees. and should be completely out of its system by the time fruits are ready to pick. I used a little drench on one potted mango tree with scale. and another Avocado with white flies. as a test.
anyone have any other experiences to add here?
One thing that is not mentioned frequently enough is that avocados increase in richness when left on the tree an extra long time. I discovered this when I tasted some Hass from my tree that was hanging about 18 months. The butter factor was so high, it was like I was eating a Reed or some Hawaiian avocado.Yes, type of cultivar is only one factor affecting taste and oil content. Fruits should be left on until at least until after the fruits are no longer glossy. Other things also affect taste, like soil type, fertilizer, amount of sun exposure, climate, etc. So it's not really completely fair to compare quality of different cultivars, unless they came from the same farm, and had same growing conditions.
