I guess they refer to "Morus alba" which is the specie with white buds. "Alba" in Latin means "white". Morus nigra, instead, is the common mulberry. Supposedly better taste-wise than its white counterpart, "nigra" in this case in latin means "black". Pigmentation of fruits can range from white to black for the fruit of both species, as far as i know.

I wish I knew how to properly orientate uploaded images

To edit locally: https://www.gimp.org/
To edit online, upload them with imgur: http://imgur.com/

In my humble opinion Facebook is very bad, it's the worst thing that has happened to online communities.
Topics are unsearchable, discussion usually are short and shallow, it's hard to retrieve old content, it's hard to filter useless content, most of the stuff there is people asking over and over same stuff. Only good side of facebook is the capability to keep in touch with pretty much anybody, but the good ends there.
Then there are some kind of content that on facebook are completly unpostable, take for example my post/diary on the "mango in central italy experiment", wich is a thread of an experience spanning over 6 years, impossible to present as unity with facebook interface.

Mrtexas i have read quite a lot of your post over the years, both here and on gardenweb, making a treasure of your idea and opinions. Anything you posted on facebook (if you have posted anything on facebook) has been hidden to me.  See what I mean? Your biggest contribution to the citrus community have been the ones happened outside of facebook.

I think i'm out from this experiment. All my grafts appear to be dead.
To be honest, I think i did a good job in matching the grafts (you can see it from pics) but something must have been off. Maybe they were already rotting when i received them? I don't know. However they all presented themselves this way:

Front (pen for scale):



Back:



I'm so bummed! I was really hoping to get this variety. And the guy sending me the scions have been so kind too! Well, i guess i've got to wait.

Honestly, i didn't thought that as a possible explanation, this seems reasonable, the plant being repotted very late in winter. So they are actually flushing their roots right now. Well, i hope they are gonna leaf out soon, so i'll be able to graft them in september.

Hi everyone,
this winter i have transplanted/moved/potted up some poncirus trifoliata i had in ground or crammed in a pot.
Usually i don't think much about moving and abusing of small leafless temperate fruit tree... when they are leafless, they do take root abuse quite well.
Well, in my humble opinion, this doesn't look the case when it come down to poncirus trifoliata.
I transplanted 7/10 plants, with some serious root pruning, from a small crammed pot to several bigger pot, but they haven't showed any sign of emitting new leaves... also, some of the bigger "flying dragons" seem to have similar problems.
Now, i'd like to know: it's just me, or this species look pretty sensitive when it comes to root pruning? Do you have had any similar experience?
Funny think is: i have a grafted yuzu on poncirus, and this one got serious root pruning too, but it's now pushing vigorously... i have also formulated the theory that in PT the storage of energy goes to roots during winter while in other citrus it says on leaves, but i can't explain in any way this difference of behavior.

Nice idea Solko... i was thinking about doing the same just yesterday.
My scions haven't pushed yet, too. It's pretty cold also here, so i'm quite bummed since i have a lot of grafts on my plants.
Only think i notice is that all the petiole became black... if they are going to absciss, this will be a good sign, otherwise the scions are just dead.

Here you are.

I have a story on this one!
First description of this plant was in Pisa botanical garden, in 1674. The author of such description said that the citrus was discovered in Florence, around the year 1644. In such baroque epoch, something so "strange" was really interesting, and also they didn't have the concept of grafting chimaera, so it was quickly multiplied with several graft and soon it was in citrus collections of all Europe. It was something "strange" and "exotic" and nobles were in love with such things (also citrus collections were popular between rich people at such age).
In late '800 tastes in gardening changed and this plant was a lot less popular. It went abandoned pretty much in all Europe, and soon, it disappeared from knowledge. It was thought to be extinct until 1980.
Then, the director of the Villa di Castello Paolo Galeotti, checking archives and the citrus collection of the villa, realized that one of its plant could have been the Bizzarria... but he saw just a bitter orange: most of the plant had reverted, in fact, to a bitter orange.
Most of the plant... except a strange looking twig. A this point he grafted the twig, and three years later, at the first fruit, he realized the he got the Bizzarria at his hands.

This characteristic makes for an easy to reproduce true-to-type rootstock, but when you buy online from nurseries it is a somewhat more difficult rootstock to get... this is what happened to me.
A couple of years ago i did buy some FD from an online nursery with the idea to use it to graft some citrus i wanted to remain small.
I got 4 plants, they were nice and fairly priced, but their contorted stem weren't so exaggerated as i hoped; undoubtedly they were FD but, probably the seeds weren't nucellar (or they were nucellar of something that wasn't nucellar in the previous generation).
So, what i wanted to add is that when you want to get FD is better to pick your plant by hand so you can see the quality of the rootstock; especially if you hope for its dwarfing characteristics more than their cold hardiness. 

Maybe your friend should have cut the leaves off before sending the scions? Or were they exposed to frost in transit? I hope they will take, but if they don't, it might be more because of the quality of the scions, than your expertise as a grafter.

You are way too kind!  Hopefully i'll be a good grafter enough to have them to take, but honestly, i share your idea that the wood doesn't look good. I also think that he should have cut the leaves, but he was so quick and kind in sending me those, without asking anything in return, that didn't even dare tell him that they won't probably take.

Here are two pictures of my FrankenFeijoa's, I'm keeping my fingers crossed:

Your grafts looks good from here! However i tend to think along the lines of fyliu, and probably some bigger sized scion could have encountered more success? I have noticed on mangoes that if you graft some bigger scions, compared to smaller scions of same age, they tend to be more successful; i thing along those lines: probably bigger scions better retain their humidity giving the cut more time to heal.
So, i usually try to graft the biggest 1-year old wood that i have available.

Your Myagawa T-bud looks good, and interesting that you prefer tying with raffia, I have never tried that.

I like raffia because it isn't elastic at all, and you can do a really tight tie... you can do it with other materials, i have for instance a chip-budding tape, but it tends to deform if you put it under too much stress, and also it is sticky and becomes a nightmare to apply properly in certain situations (dusty/dirty environment when you t-buds very low on a freshly plowed field). I don't know how much of this holds true for electric tape, but the sticky part for sure remains. Parafilm is good when you want to keep the scion insulated from the external world, but isn't very efficient when you want to hold something in place... unless you use a lot of it. Of course para-film is one of my favored materials for grafting, but for t -bud raffia works really well, even more if you consider that a properly done T bud doesn't need much sealing, if at all, if your ties is strong enoug. So... rafia to me is just more convenient (also: biodegradable).

A good practice for grafting guava is to prepare the scion by stripping all the leaves, tipping and waiting about a week for it to swell before clipping.

At this point it's too late to attempt this, only precaution i had on my pineapple guava was the be sure it was was well hydrated: but i definitively will keep this in mind when i'm gonna try this again!

This information would help us have a better idea of factors affecting grafting success rates.
Timing, scion size, rootstock age, grafting method, location of graft on plant.

Oh, now that you make me think about it, i also tried a side veneer graft. Saw solko has success with it so i though "Why not?". I have even less hope on this one that on other grafts, it was my first side veneer. Well, more of a chip budding now that i think about it.

Ok, so, i finally got some scions and did graft my plants.
Firstly, the feijoa seems really hard to graft. I have never seen a drier wood! Loss like you are grafting on a dead plant! Both the scion and the rootstock.
I received the scions from a kind person, but too bad during the time in transit some kind of rot had set in, so i don't know about the effective sanitary state of the cuttings/scions.
I grafted them anyway because of course few chances are better than no chances.



I really don't know if feijoa wood is supposed to be so dark.



However i did diligently finish my graft and now i just hope to see them push, but i don't have my hopes to high.





@fyliu: on a semi-related note; i kept in mind your suggestion on T bud graft for citrus. So i started regularly to check if my citrus showed any sign of bark separating easily from wood. Interestingly enough, while my poncirus trifoliata "Flying dragon" has already stopped it growth "lenght-wise" (ending what would have been the best moment for cleft graft, in my experience!), the bark has just started to split from wood easily (i say "just started" because while this works well only on higher portions of the stem while closer to the roots, the bark still adheres firmly to wood).
However i said to myself "why no?" and did promptly graft a myagawa on it, with a T bud of course.



I tied it with raffia because in my humble opinion while it may look outdated, it is a very solid choice for t bud, better than alternatives, because it can be tied very tightly while it doesn't impair your work by sticking to your fingers and so on.
The petiole has been left, of course, to see if the graft has taken.

Well, pretty much any fruit I attempted, but i have had particularly good success with pears and apples. Last fall i did T-bud graft with a diospyros virginiana meader over a diospyros lotus rootstock and got a bud to take out of two (it's swelling right now) despite having done probably the worst tie of my short grafting career.

I dunno if it's a fact related to climate differences, that can explain the difference in techniques used on the two sides of the ocean.
However here t budding on temperate fruits is done at the end of August. My grampa recommended august, at least. My first T buds were done on 10th of September and maybe it's a bit late, but since then, because my first t bud were successful,  I always to my t buds on the beginning of September. Maybe I'm a bit superstitious  . It's said that once you get a bit of rain after the summer, and the temperature lowers a bit, it's time to graft.

I avoid T bud on citrus because i have found that i have and hard time to have them sprout once budded. Also i have an hard time understanding when the citrus is ready to accept the t bud. I got a poncirus trifoliata flying dragon right now that i have attempted to T bud on 3 different occasions. Go figure!