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Messages - hawkfish007

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1
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Experiences growing Yellow Jabuticaba..
« on: September 05, 2020, 02:25:52 AM »
Pete has a short informative video on yellow jaboticaba you may want to see.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_cWKEHRY5E

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Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: Makok
« on: July 26, 2020, 01:07:03 PM »
Champa nursery had plenty of makok, alano, hasya, and molix in stock when I was there last week, 7 gal was $100 and 15 gal $200.

3
I ended up getting a potwheelz medium, it can move a 25 gallon pot full of sand and soil mix with ease; however, over 25 gal pots won’t fit. I like the the build, well made and with two casters at the back it is easy to maneuver. Wheels are solid plastic and seems like it will do well on dirt lot and uneven surface as well.



4
Has anyone used Wesco drum truck to move 25 gal and larger pots? I am planning to buy it and wondering if anyone has first hand experience with the hand truck. I have limited clearance between pergolas so wider than 30” truck won’t work in my backyard.

Wesco 240001 Deluxe Series Steel Drum Truck, Moldon Rubber Wheels, 1000-lb. Load Capacity, 24" Width x 58" Height x 21" Depth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OJGSNK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uwYdFb6BRHGQF

Thanks.



5
Hey palingkecil, no worries, it's not your fault. They did pack the CC well and shipped quickly. It would have been a nice specimen if it didn't come with serious bark damages. It is already hard to grow mangoes in Southern California, any trees with slightest disease just doesn't make past wet winter here. I have been sold and shipped 3 gal as 7 gal,7 gal as 15 gal before but never a tree with visible bark damages. This is a first for me. I already have a 15 gal sized CC which didn't hold any fruits this year so wanted to add more because of how shy of bearer CC is. I am waiting to hear from the seller for my options, may be they are away for the long weekend.

Simon and TropicalFruitHunters, thanks for your input. I am sure it would heal and do well under Florida weather, but it will be a gamble to try to keep it alive in SoCal.

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I ordered a 7 gal coconut cream from Jim Barrett’s nursery after reading some good reviews about the nursery here. I received the CC yesterday with some serious bark damages which looked gummosis to me. I am afraid this CC will die of a slow death. I never thought a nursery or someone could ship a diseased tree across the country knowingly. I sent these pic to the nursery and waiting for their response. I paid with PayPal and there is some hope in recovering payment if the nursery is reluctant to ship a healthy tree. I saved the box so it could be shipped back. Does the tree have a chance to be healthy and survive down the road?







7
They all look fantastic. How old are they? Do you do foliar spray feeding? My mango trees just grow some new buds after I replaced some of the soil with sand.

Oldest sub-tropicals are little over 3 years and most are between 2-3 years in my yard. I have been growing stone fruits for a long time. I use Peter's liquid STEM to drench and foliar feed my trees. I haven't foliar fed this year, honestly I didn't see a need as they are growing nicely.

8
Mid June update.

Peach cobbler on turpentine  holding ~15 fruits and flushing.


Cat Saigon on turpentine, fruits are almost ready.


Orange sherbet on turpentine, I cut flower panicles and marble size fruitlets and left only 3 so the tree can grow.


CAC on corriente after heavy pruning and fruitlet removal.


Lemon zest on turpentine after heavy pruning and fruitlet removal.


Sweet Tart on corriente after pruning and fruitlet removal.


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That's awesome! Hopefully one day my mango trees will look like yours. Please keep sharing your experience with us here. Looking forward for your mango taste review next year.

You will get there soon. I will do a detailed video of my backyard soon with mango reviews.

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Hawkfish007,

Congratulations! You're definitely mango king. You have successfully grown turpentine roostck mangoes in southern California. That's no easy task. I live practically near to you and have failed at growing mangoes here.

I guess your success proves that there's no such thing as turpentine vs Manila rootstock. It is all boiled down to grower's dedication and techniques.

Thanks Mugenia, you are welcome to stop by to take a look at the mangoes any time.

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I have learned a lot from this forum, also learned from my own mistakes. After loosing numerous trees, I am at a point that my mangoes are doing well. Most of my mangoes are on Florida rootstock except for some multigrafted varieties I want on a single tree. Like this 4in1on Manilla rootstock (LZ, PPK, Juicy Peach and Maha) courtesy of Frank. Note, I am going by the fruit sizes in determining what is an early and late variety in my yard. I am in zone 9B and I do get some below 32F nights once in a while, but last year the lowest was 34.2F according to my weather station.

4in1on Manilla rootstock.


Early Varieties Orange Sherbet and Cat Saigon.




Late Varieties.
Sweet Tart and Dwarf Hawaiian on Corriente rootstock.


Icecream on Turpentine.


Lemon Zest on Turpentine.


Mallika on Turpentine.


Peach Cobbler on Turpentine.


Pickering on Turpentine.


Buttercream on Turpentine.


Carrie on Turpentine.


Some of my grafting work based on Har's top 5.


Others like Coconut Cream, PPK, Fruit Punch, Fairchild didn't flower for me this year, or aborted their fruitlets. So mangoes will grow here, don't give up!

12
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Grafting Mango Opinions
« on: June 07, 2020, 11:33:02 PM »
I just picked up a Manila seedling with two similar sized branches branching off about 10 inches above the soil.

Would you graft two scions, or just one?
Same cultivar or different?

Looks like a perfect seedling to graft 2 cultivars. Here is my grafted Sweet Tart and Dwarf Hawaiian currently loaded with fruits. Seedling was in a 5 gal pot and grafted in May 2018.



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Where did you find some? Thanks

Bought 5 nice plants from forum member buddy roo, he was out of slips. He packaged them well and threw in some dragon fruit cuttings for free. I highly recommend him.

14
Frank has Amrapali and Sindheri scions for sale. He is a wealth of knowledge on growing mangoes in SoCal. I always had good results with his scions.

http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=39483.0

15

Can anyone chime in if chunky perlite or stone will serve the same purpose as pumice? I can't seem to find a good source locally.

Benefit of using pumice is that it can hold moisture out of the three while providing other benefits. Perlite will provide aeration, will help to reduce compaction but it tends to float up due to its weight. I am guessing rocks will provide some aeration and will help to reduce compaction as well. Pumice will definitely help during our 100+F days by retaining moisture, but will never degrade or create anaerobic condition. I stocked up on pumice for $9/50 lb bag in the past from zenhydro.

Makes an abundance of sense - I think I found a good source here in SB and will be doing the same, 50lb bag. I have 3-4 large mangoes to pot up - do you recommend putting them in a 25 gallon pot straight from a 7 or 15 gallon? I could definitely enjoy not having to up pot again later on.

I would definitely recommend to up pot them in 25 gal or up depending on their sizes. Because once you start using sand, top soil and pumice mix, it gets almost impossible to move by one person even a 15 gal pot. I forgot to mention in my previous posts, I also add 1 scoop of Azomite per Cuft of sand/soil. They are cheap at Crop Production Services ~$19/40 lb bag. I up potted my 15 gal Pickering in to a 45 gal pot so I don't have to up pot it again any time soon.

16

Can anyone chime in if chunky perlite or stone will serve the same purpose as pumice? I can't seem to find a good source locally.

Benefit of using pumice is that it can hold moisture out of the three while providing other benefits. Perlite will provide aeration, will help to reduce compaction but it tends to float up due to its weight. I am guessing rocks will provide some aeration and will help to reduce compaction as well. Pumice will definitely help during our 100+F days by retaining moisture, but will never degrade or create anaerobic condition. I stocked up on pumice for $9/50 lb bag in the past from zenhydro.

17
I do know Shwe Hintha.

Perhaps the topsoil was from a field that used to grow tomatoes or peppers or eggplants, until Southern Bacterial Wilt became a problem.  That stuff can hang around for years.  The rapid wilting looks like that, but could be from something else, such as Phytophthora fungus in the roots.  You might be able to save the tree with Flanker or Aliette, or equivalent.  While the tree is still alive, you can send samples to a lab for diagnosis;  don't send an already dead sample.

Thank you Har for the info, I believe you are correct, it might be from infected topsoil or Gromulch. I recently lost a lychee in pot as well after adding Kellog's Gromulch on top 1" from the same batch. I will get some Aliette (found it on Amazon but no Flanker) ASAP and try to save the tree.

Thanks again for the valuable info, I didn't know about Southern Bacterial Wilt.

18
Thanks, Ant! Where do you get your trees on manila rootstock?

Also I totally agree about mixing in sand instead of purely using bagged garden soil, which is mostly forest products, which decompose/rot over time and will eventually kill the tree. I've had really good results with mixing in sand to my native soil along with worm castings and some peat moss. Peat moss decompose quite slowly compared to tree products and is one of the best mediums for moisture retention. It's really helpful since sand drains most of the water. The only downside to sand is that it's super heavy.

I stopped using peat moss in sand and soil mix for mangoes. I now use pumice rocks for mangoes that are in pots and under sun whole day to help retain water. But the mix does make the pot super heavy. I apply gromulch and worm casting on the top 1-2” only. This method has been working well for me. BTW, crop services sells 30 lbs worm gold plus for $19 plus tax.

Thanks for the tip! Is there a reason why you don't go for peat moss? And where do you get your pumice rocks? I've been wondering about the best place to get them.

I decided to stay away from anything that may degrade overtime because I wanted to keep Pickering and CC in pots indefinitely. I buy pumice from zenhydro, they sell 1 cuft/~50 lbs for $9, but they may be out of stock now due to covid19 supply issues. I usually pick it up from their warehouse in Irwindale, they also sell 50 lbs cottonseed meal for $36 as well.

Here is my LZ on turpentine in ground since 04/2019, bought as a tiny 3 gal from plantogram. It is currently holding a lot of tiny fruitlets.



CAC on turpentine in ground since 04/19, bought in a 5 gal from Steve @ exotica, he didn’t up pot it and it was in original soil mix from Florida. It is holding a lot of fruitlets as well.



Lastly my grafted ST and DF on corriente rootstock grafted around 05/19.




Edit: Dwarf Hawaiian not DF, I may have planted LZ in 09/18 because I remembered it survived 2 winters.

19
Thanks, Ant! Where do you get your trees on manila rootstock?

Also I totally agree about mixing in sand instead of purely using bagged garden soil, which is mostly forest products, which decompose/rot over time and will eventually kill the tree. I've had really good results with mixing in sand to my native soil along with worm castings and some peat moss. Peat moss decompose quite slowly compared to tree products and is one of the best mediums for moisture retention. It's really helpful since sand drains most of the water. The only downside to sand is that it's super heavy.

I stopped using peat moss in sand and soil mix for mangoes. I now use pumice rocks for mangoes that are in pots and under sun whole day to help retain water. But the mix does make the pot super heavy. I apply gromulch and worm casting on the top 1-2” only. This method has been working well for me. BTW, crop services sells 30 lbs worm gold plus for $19 plus tax.

20
I had good luck with mangoes on turpentine rootstock. I have CAC, LZ, Pickering, CC, Malika, Glenn, and VP on turpentine that are doing excellent.  Here is my Pickering and CC on turpentine in pots. I can take some pictures tomorrow and post. I found that mangoes on turpentine I lost are due to my own fault. When I started I only used potting soil for potted trees, and used mulch to plant in ground. As a result I lost those trees. Now that I have switched to sand and topsoil mix only, I haven't lost anymore. Unfortunately, I still have some trees in potting soil only and they are on their way out.

Pickering and CC in sand and topsoil mix.



Very intetesting.. Maybe that's why I lost my Pickering and Little Gem. I used organic garden soil. Do you think it will work if I use all purpose sand from HD mixed with garden soil (is it the same with top soil?).

That's what I use Quikrete all purpose soil and regular top soil in 50:50 ratio. For inground trees, just native soil. If I knew or used this mix when I started, I wouldn't have lost so many trees.
Thank you! My native soil is not completely clay, but a little dense. Do you think it will work better if I mixed a little bit sand with my native soil?

Adding sand to native soil should be ok and wouldn't be detrimental to trees. Apply generous amount of mulch around the tree away from trunk, and your soil profile will improve over time. One thing I forgot to mention, it is best to get a tree that hasn't been up potted locally at the nurseries since most nurseries use potting soil based mix to up pot to keep weight of the tree low and to water less frequently. Not to mention to make more $. I found mangoes that is in Florida sand and soil mix does well when planted directly in native soil, or sand and soil mix in pot.

21
I had good luck with mangoes on turpentine rootstock. I have CAC, LZ, Pickering, CC, Malika, Glenn, and VP on turpentine that are doing excellent.  Here is my Pickering and CC on turpentine in pots. I can take some pictures tomorrow and post. I found that mangoes on turpentine I lost are due to my own fault. When I started I only used potting soil for potted trees, and used mulch to plant in ground. As a result I lost those trees. Now that I have switched to sand and topsoil mix only, I haven't lost anymore. Unfortunately, I still have some trees in potting soil only and they are on their way out.

Pickering and CC in sand and topsoil mix.



Very intetesting.. Maybe that's why I lost my Pickering and Little Gem. I used organic garden soil. Do you think it will work if I use all purpose sand from HD mixed with garden soil (is it the same with top soil?).

That's what I use Quikrete all purpose soil and regular top soil in 50:50 ratio. For inground trees, just native soil. If I knew or used this mix when I started, I wouldn't have lost so many trees.

Edit: all purpose sand

22
I had good luck with mangoes on turpentine rootstock. I have CAC, LZ, Pickering, CC, Malika, Glenn, and VP on turpentine that are doing excellent.  Here is my Pickering and CC on turpentine in pots. I can take some pictures tomorrow and post. I found that mangoes on turpentine I lost are due to my own fault. When I started I only used potting soil for potted trees, and used mulch to plant in ground. As a result I lost those trees. Now that I have switched to sand and topsoil mix only, I haven't lost anymore. Unfortunately, I still have some trees in potting soil only and they are on their way out.

Pickering and CC in sand and topsoil mix.



23


I am not familiar with 'Raw Honey.'

Photo 1:  Looks like an admirable setup!  How many hours of direct sunlight?  What is in the soil mix?  Do you use city water?

Photo 2:  I have never seen that double-row of dots on mango leaves.

#1 It gets direct sunlight till 3 pm or so. It was in potting soil in a 15 gal pot, but when I transplanted in RB panels I used sand and
topsoil mix to fill the panels (used ~3 cuft). I use dechlorinated city water with a whole house GAC filter.

#2 those dots are probably abound residuals.

I believe raw honey is renamed Shwe Hintha from Zill.

24
I am still struggling with healthy mangoes suddenly drying up and dying. I noticed that it happens to mangoes with pencil sized trunk, e.g., 3-5 gallon mangoes. Mangoes with bigger trunk > 15 gals are seem to immune to this and thrive. I applied Abound and Regalia CG fungicides without any luck. If anyone has any insights or knows how to prevent this, please let me know.

Seemingly healthy Raw Honey.



Suddenly drying up.



Pickering with thicker trunk thriving.



25
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: dechlorinated water for jaboticaba
« on: May 15, 2020, 12:08:09 AM »
I am not sure about the age of the tree, I bought it as a 15 gal from Champa this January when they were on sale for $80 or $90. Watering should not be an issue, I could set the drip irrigation line to water it whatever many hours it needs per day. Hoping it will flower soon.

Edit: I killed 2 of my 15 gal Jabos by over watering during winter. I left the pots on saucer with water and it made the soil anaerobic.

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