Tropical Fruit Forum - International Tropical Fruit Growers



Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Kay

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 6
51
Updated my have and want list.  took away nutmeg/macadamia and added Baccaurea sp. to my wants.

52
in Thai is it treated as 2 words or 1?

53
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Anacardium humile
« on: May 16, 2013, 02:08:42 PM »
Quote
Sergio , I would like to ad that one year I collected seeds from these wild cashews , red and yellow , both were growing in the same area , only the reds germinated and none of the yellow .

interesting, any idea why?  the red and yellow i collected from the Philippines all germinated lovely.  i noted though they are VERY prone to root rot and had to switch to a mineral cactus mix cut with 40% real soil to stop the rot (its wet when planted).

do  humile have as harsh irritation of the skin?

Quote
Luc, how long does this anacardium take to produce?
3-6 years here.  i have some 5' trees fruiting, they can be kept small with pruning.  anyone know how pruning affects flower/fruit?

54
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Another prickly pear selection
« on: May 15, 2013, 10:11:29 AM »
Quote
How does prickly pear do in South Florida?
I have grown O. ficus indica, and some other sp., outdoors in southern mountains of Taiwan.  max rain = 2.5m/day and lighter days of 50-150cm/day can last over a week.  they do well.  sitting in a low spot for more than a week submerged, rot can start, but on a mound even in clay they can handle insane rainfall.  potted plants are more often than not far more prone to rot.

55
countries that are against moss are ok with non organic things like vermiculite.  im not sure, but i think aus is probably against anything a pathogen can hide in, organic or not.

56
great thanks.  what time of year should i ask?

57
Quote
My experience so far with dragon fruit and artificial light hasn't been good; neither 1000W MH nor high-power LED lights were sufficient to grow the plants well.  (Dragon fruit are the only plants I've encountered yet that seem to require real sunlight to be happy...)  Luckily you're not trying to grow them with artificial light, just trick them into thinking the nights are shorter.

locally lights are used a lot.  last couple years we have had dragon fruit around all year!  they are mostly using incandescent.  LED you can buy a specific wavelengths.  i already sourced diodes years ago, not tricky, but an expensive experiment!

Quote
As the article says, HPS bulbs don't provide a lot of light in the spectrum ideal for tricking plants into thinking they're getting long days; the most efficient would be to get LED lights in just the right spectrum, but I'm unaware of any LED light on the market designed purely for phytochrome triggering.  Any energy used to produce other wavelengths of light is wasted in your application as it won't really be strong enough to help the plants grow.

actually i think the article didnt mention HPS, but MH/HID.  HPS are on the red end.  i know lots of wasted wavelengths....but an incandescent puts out say 20 lumens/watt whilw hps puts out 120l/w AND will cover greater range. 

one thing i am wondering is if the other spectrums might initiate a vegetative response and slow flowering?  i think i need to re read and try some more sites.

Quote
Keep in mind that HPS and MH bulbs don't like being turned on and off frequently; each re-start of the bulb ages it and it will fail much sooner if it is turned on and off frequently (and indeed they cannot be switched back on until they have cooled down sufficiently, which usually takes about 15 minutes).

very good point, this is why i was thinking a rail, they wouldnt always be switched.  that seem right to you?  i feel i am missing something

Quote
I've used a Light Rail to move artificial lights over my plants for 15 years now and am very happy with them.  Besides (as you pointed out) weatherproofing it, you may also have a challenge to get the light to move enough distance back and forth on the rail while still getting power.   My setups have the lights moving at most 10 feet on the rail and I can simply festoon the power cords, but in a larger-scale application it may get tricky.

yes, i know now its going to have to be fabricated myself.  maybe i can search around more here.  Taiwan is a fantastic place to be to find machines and equipment.  the cord will be tricky as outdoor 220 thick wire is stiff.  will likely need a second line above and some sort of drape kind of thing...

Quote
Make sure you do more research before investing in the lights, HPS and Metal halide lights require a special ballast and the bulbs can explode if you get the oils from your hand on the bulb. If this is for outdoors, you would want to make sure the outlet you connect your light to can handle the light and is GFCI? They do make special HPSs bulbs that have more light in the wavelengths you want, check out Hortilux.

I have used them for years in greenhouses.  They are also cheap here, about $60 USD for 400w hps.  outdoor, enclosed unit ready to go.  wiring we are  doing ourselves as Taiwanese electrical standards are shocking.  everything will be very safe in that regard.  most places here dont even have a ground...anywhere...


Quote
If you want low lumens over a wide area compact fluorescents may be the easiest way to go for maximum coverage although I'm not sure about the wavelength of the light. HID lights loose lumens very quickly as you increase the distance from the plant, much of the light will be wasted. The plants closest to the light will get lots of light and plants just several feet away will only get a fraction of the light. I believe it is called the inverse square law?

CFL wont put out as much as tubes.  T5/8 can have 100l/w, CFL, here at least, max at 72l/w.  problem with fluorescent is the lumens dont travel far, they would need to be right above each plant, and the coverage would be poor i think.  but i will setup a couple dummy poles and measure them at night to see.  but for purchase costs 6 CFL = 1 HPS.  i think moving lights will also hit more branches and maybe provide more even fruitset?

Quote
I have grown the Yellow Dragonfruit under T5 lights and it has grown extremely fast under this kind of lighting. My Yellow DF actually grew faster under T5 lighting than it did under the sun. 
i like T5 too.  but i wonder if they were not etiolating.  because cactus stretch very much when in poor light, and given the growth style of vine cacti and the light intensity of fluorescents i cant see it being good on large poles of plants.



currently having trouble figuring out a track support as HPS  is about 5kg.

I wont be actually planting until October as we are currently building the house/ponds/greenhouses etc.

58
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Rooting cuttings of soursop
« on: May 14, 2013, 07:03:59 AM »
how do you feel about foliar sprays of IBA/NAA?  I tried with non fruit and worked well.  might be easy as you your mist setup done, just need to spike with hormones

59
I am seriously wanting to play with extended days out of the greenhouse and in the field. 

I am hoping to use 400w HPS to cover a larger area than incandescent to save on electricity as we use way too much having everything processed on site. 


i just read this:  http://stfc.org.au/dragon-fruit-by-graham-reindeers

Quote
Lamps simulate “Long-days”  The name of the game here is to shock the (Pr) {inactive} Phytochrome, which regresses during increasing dark periods, back into active (Pfr ) and to drive them back into the cell nucleus, to keep making flowering hormone. We can either light the crop continuously after dark or light the “dark” period for 25% of each hour, usually starting at about 10pm and continuing until approx 2.00am. This fools the plant into thinking it is all one long day. Plants yield better when they sleep a bit at night so they can rearrange their sugar storage efficiently. However, a continuous light from 10pm to 2.00am can be used with no real ill-effects. 100 Watt incandescent bulbs are usually used, spaced about 5 feet apart from each plant, delivering about 10 lumens {foot candles}.  The actual lumen output is not very critical because all it has to do is shock the Phytochrome with a few photons. To save power, the lights can be cycled on and off to give about 25% timed light. There is a technique being used lately where 400 Watt Metal Halide or Sodium (High Intensity Discharge) lamps are mounted high enough above the crop to reach plants 40-50 feet away which are either swivelled on a boom or reflected by a reflector, like a “light house”, causing light to fall on each plant 3 of 4 times an hour between 10pm-2.00am. The HID’s are not very high in 660nm red but they make up for it in Lumen output. Again, provided that each plant feels the equivalent of about 10 lumens of light at each passing, the Phytochrome will be switched back to creating flowering hormone. Taiwan is reported to be creating an additional flowering season, extending from the Fall equinox through to the next spring equinox. This de-facto means that the plant is in continuous production. Cooler off-season crops actually have the capacity to make larger sweeter fruits because the plant can deposit more sugars in the fruit when their metabolism is not racing at full speed in the heat. Pitaya fruit can be grown from between 35 – 50 days with no excessive sweetness increase but up to 25% increase in weight. This may be a good way to get a high yield out of the second crop even if the plants get tired. Provided the plant nutrition can be adequately maintained, and the temperature kept within the plant’s comfort zone, continuous production is possible and feasible.


they mention the use being OK.  10 lumens seems like an easy deal, would also like to look into LED, but later as i already have the HPS. 

so my idea was to use rails.  this article mentions they need light 15 mins every hour between 10pm-2am (im sure the time frame varies).  using rails would move the light in a line back and forth slowly, and could be setup to hit 15/60 mins pretty easy.

Can anyone see a flaw in this?  i see it working, but want to make real sure as it takes some effort to setup outdoor things like this that can withstand typhoons.

60
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Rooting cuttings of soursop
« on: May 13, 2013, 12:28:34 PM »
its been my experience that, if climate allows, you root outdoors under shade cloth.  the sunlight and fresh air do wonders for sterilization and prevention of rot.

going to try this out with annona, thanks for the article.

61
i would like to trade as well.  sent pm

62
I agree it is very hard, but they can be done.  i brought back 10 plants this year, 5 srvived.

i have treied many times prior without succes.

things that i think helped were

being FAR more careful in cleaning of soil. 
using soiless media for transport (i used vermiculite as some countries are funny about sphagnum moss)
**do not trim too many leaves!  i know its standard practice, but i find that durian lose ability to draw from already damaged roots, and they seem to die off from simple dehydration and lack of leaf.  so i left about 5 good full leaves on.  durian, i find anyway, is really slow from bud to open leaf, so need to leave it some or the shock is way too great.

I also place them in cut plastic bottles and make the verm moist.  wrapped in newsprint and little water flicked on it to raise humidty and lessen evapotranspiration. 

the hardest part with transport is passing customs, hence leafless being ideal..  but durio i find needs leaves.

I had a 28 hour period from unpotting to repotting.

63
Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: Selling: Star Anise
« on: May 13, 2013, 08:54:54 AM »
Do you export?

64
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Looking for Borneo tips in June
« on: May 13, 2013, 07:23:35 AM »
i only go in winter/spring, but my best luck has always been on the roads throughout the crocker range.

my biggest tip, rent a car (with clearance if you go far).

if you go further south, i highly recommend Uncle Tan's for wildlife viewing and such.  We were there last during the incident with the army, but i would think its cleared up now.  it wasnt too inconvenient when we were there.

65
Located in Taiwan.  I prefer small plants or very fresh seed.  It would be best if you can obtain phytosanitary certificate, but its no deal breaker as i can have them sprayed at quarantine for extra $.

I am willing to pay for certificate and shipping, or if its a trade i can also provide phyto/shipping.

WANTED:
Almost any Baccaurea sp.
Any  Duguetia sp.
Any Inga species with good fruit.
Any Theobroma species other than cacao, especially bicolor
Any Nephelium species with good fruit other than rambutan (grafted preferred, but wild types also very welcome)
Durio graveolens (plants only)
other interesting things that cant be found here. 

HAVE TO TRADE:  Note, clones i only know chinese names for most, translating i have hard time doing.

Seeds:
Carica papaya
Euphoria longan - Longan (seeds in July-Sept)
Hylocereus undatus - Dragon Fruit
Litchi chinensis - Lychee
Synsepalum dulcificum - Miracle Fruit
Tamarindus indica (Thai origins)


Plants:
Anonna atemoya (grafted, sort of big)
Anonna montana (not 100% ID certainty, seed grown)
Anonna squamosa (grafted, sort of big)
Hylocereus undatus - Dragon Fruit
Litchi chinensis - Lychee (grafted, sort of big)
Morinda citrifolia - Noni
Pachira aquatica - Money tree
Passiflora edulis - Passion Fruit (grafted)
Psidium guajava - Guava (grafted)
Synsepalum dulcificum - Miracle Fruit (seedlings)
Syzygium samarangense - Wax apples (Grafted, i only know chinese names of varieties:
Tamarindus indica (Thai origins, ready in June)
Theobroma cacao (seedling, red/yellow fruit)




66
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Another prickly pear selection
« on: May 13, 2013, 07:04:58 AM »
That is very cool.  soft seeds from ficus-indica?  thats a winner on its own :)  seeds are the only reason i dont grow them in bigger numbers.  Job well done :)

If you trade/sell internationally, i would like to pm you

67
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Big Red Sugar Apple
« on: May 13, 2013, 06:59:02 AM »
Here are the "red" A. squamosa that grow here.  inside is same as normal, white.


68
Quote
he had it 2 years previous, but had part of his liver removed, and did the chemo etc. he was considered cancer free after that, I got to know him during that period,  he got it back, same place, in the Liver,  he tried to do the juicing but every time he felt better , he would start eating meat and BBQs etc. I tried to convince him to eat healthier,  but he continued, anyway, the Cancer spread all over within months, Lungs, pancreas etc. 

kind of like taking meds to kill the flu, and afterwards still never washing your hands.  curing cancer seems more related to lifestyle change than hardcore radiation poisoning.

anyone see movie "Forks over Knives"?  not the best of quality, but it raises some interesting points and gives some names to research later on.

69
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Big Red Sugar Apple
« on: May 11, 2013, 07:31:12 AM »
Is that a variety name or just a description of color?  we see similar here in markets and on some trees sometimes, but more purple than red like the above picture.  i personally found them the same as green.

70
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Identifying pitaya (dragon fruit)
« on: May 11, 2013, 07:25:53 AM »
ribs i dont think is genetic, more environmental.  they can even form almost cylindrical growth.

And as said, immature growth, no ID is going to happen :(

71
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: sugar apples and ants
« on: May 11, 2013, 07:24:35 AM »
Any suggestions for areas too hot/wet to grow lavender?  it grows well here until about may, then they all start dieing (not just me, its a well known "fact" in the region).  Sounds like a great way to get rid of ants.

72
every species has its own preferred perimeters.  in short, maybe and no.  so species are similar.  i personally germinate most easy to die tropical fruit in sphagnum moss, but there is so much variation in the plant world no aspect is ever universal.

73
chlorines will evaporate when exposed to light.  is it possible you pump into a holding pond before watering?  There are methods of separating the others as well, but it may be too involved.  But it seems counter productive to try and clean the dirt of substances constantly being put in via irrigation.

Is a well a possible alternative?

74
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Oak mulch safe for fruit trees?
« on: May 08, 2013, 11:33:52 AM »
oak wood is a good wood for fungi species to colonize, i wonder if that may be a risk?

75
Quote
I have a friend who was diagnosed with stomach cancer recently.  He just started chemotherapy last week.  Thanks for all the replies.

The chemo is suppose to be the thing fighting the cancer, unfortunately it knocks out pretty much everything in your body.  if taking chemo, in my opinion, you should be focusing more on taking things to feel well enough to eat/drink/feel not horrible.  Chemo is horrible for most people, more than finding cancer fighting foods its important to make it so that people can actually eat anything.  often times chemo is a the end for cancer patients as they just lose their fight and cant handle any more pain/discomfort so they dont eat/drink and a very very bad circle begins ( have seen different family both be dominated by this and concquer it to live decent lives).

making plant foods that are good for cancer might be better in forms of extracts or drinks, eating can be difficult for many people feeling nauseous with this kind of thing.  depends on your friend, hopefully he can eat things, but stomach cancer and chemo sounds like maybe eating/drinking could be a problem.

Although i am not a big fan of drug use, Cannabis does seem to be one of the best options for people in chemo and serious illness with problems of nausea and lack of appetite.  I wouldnt recommend it normally, but i have seen this work very effectively in similar situations, ti was very amazing.  as the doctor treating my grandmother in hospice (she needed up leaving and living a few years more in relative happiness), it doesnt really matter what kind of tea of fruit she eats, so long as she is eating and drinking (this during chemo treatment).  he told us frankly if its getting water in her, its helping (we were asking about reishi mushroom). 

i have found with my friends and family (unfortunately lots of cancer) that more than specific cancer fighting foods, one just needs to focus on eating, and not throwing up, healthy foods.  if one food is better at cancer fighting than another, but it cant be stomached or enjoyed, then it is not as effective as the other plant contain a lower % of ABC cancer fighting chemical.  happiness and healthy lifestyle have been the BIGGEST life altering events in my family with cancer.

depression, laziness, unhealthy lifestyle, and physical pain are to cancer what gasoline is to fire.  power of the mind might just be the most effective fruit of all.

cancer is a bad nasty thing, but its beatable.  I have much hope for your friend and hope he or shee can pull through with an eventual smile on their face :)

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 6
Copyright © Tropical Fruit Forum - International Tropical Fruit Growers