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4.) It has incredibly vicious spikes - you have to wear gloves and long sleeves just to pick the fruit!
It depends who you ask. My choc anon bears from November to January at my house. I have found the fruits to be of very sweet. There are apparently many other forum members who don't like the choc anon, but at my location it fruits in the winter and I like the fruit.
* No additional supports for the plant at the top of the post - it just terminates (are side supports at the top really needed?)
Took some more photos of a tree that was discussed recently in the "earliest mangos this year" thread. Tree was purchased as a Glenn, with Pine Island Glenn tag.
Harry and some others seemed to think it might be Rosigold. Any comments appreciated in helping ID this one. Photos taken today.
| Mango Pruning-- Tipping | |
on most I tip pruve when the flushes are quite young/small and still very soft/succulent (approximately 4 inches long or so). The Excalibur seems to be more vigorous in terms of size so I tend to address a little differently and let it semi harden and then cut it back, depending on location of the flush with respect to shape of the tree.My LZ vigorously pushed flushes while in a pot. It has been in the ground for 6 months or so and nada,
My Mahachanoks react well to tip pruning and do push consistent flushes though a tad bit slower than other varieties.
My NDM4 (grafted on dwarfing rootstock) has been in the ground for about a year or so...has not done a darn thing since it pushed inflos late November/early December (which were destroyed in the one real cold snap we had in December), before that it was steadily pushing flushed and being tip pruned.
My Mallika, Coconut Creama nd Excalibur are flushing like crazy. They were all flushing vegetative, tip prunes and within two week pushed another vegetative flush. The Coconut Cream has actually pushed two separate flushes within a week of each other.
I fertilize every month and water with a hose five or six days a week, even with the rains we have had.
On a side not, my Lorito Mamey is also flushing like crazy and flowing in addition to holding small fruits (golf ball size give or take).
How long do you let the growth get ( I assume its new growth)-before you tip it?
Oh, I will add, the Pickering which is at my moms is very sloooooow growing. Bought about a year ago from Zills in a 15 gallon. It is very well branched but has only pushed vegetative flushes on three branches since I got it. It is being up-potted to a 25 gallon this weekend (hopefully that will give it a little kick in the rear...).
Richard Campbell, in his videos, suggested tip pruning when the new growth is larger ( 20cm, I think he suggests)- The early tip pruning would stimulate more lateral growth? Also, is it too late to do the heading cut, across the top, like in the videos?
For water retention/soil enrichment, a local nursery recommends and sells "Black Velvet", which I think is a humus product from the makers of "Black Cow." and costs I think $4 a bag or less. You might want to mix that with your native soil. I know many recommend not amending native soil in this manner however. I think the theory is that the roots will tend to not spread out wide in search of water and nutrients if they've got what they need right there in the small planting hole...which leads to problems down the road. I don't what studies have been done on this. I'm sure others here know much more about this than me.Be careful there is no manure in that Black Velvet as if mixed with the soil when planting the manure can cause damage when coming in contact with the new roots of the tree. The manure could also boost the nitrogen level to a point that would not be beneficial for some fruits.
