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Messages - Cookie Monster

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26
Here's what all of my super julies look like this year. Didn't get more than a dozen or so though.



27
Yikes. That's nuts. What are all those sap spots from? Some sort of insect pest?








Terrible to see this even in such dry conditions.

For some varieties it just doesn’t seem to matter.

Our Thai mangos are largely clean so far. We’ll see what happens when they start to ripen.

28
Thanks for the update. You guys are getting nailed up there. How often are you spraying with copper? This year, I'm on a strict fortnightly schedule.

Southern Blush, Haden, Lemon Zest, are quite impacted--- in dry weather, little-to-no irrigation, coastal zone.

Last year, Burmese and Thai mangos, except Pim Sen Mun, were noticeably infected:  Elephant-Tusk, Po Pyu Kalay, Nam Doc Mai, and less on Chocanon and  Pram Kai Mea.

This year I have found MBBS on only two trees of Po Pyu Kalay, while ten or so are still clean.  The worse affected is a tree at the top of the hill, solitary, wind-whipped.

Last year, the first part of the crop of Kent and Keitt to reach near-maturity were destroyed by MBBS and various rots. After switching to every-other-day SANITATION-HARVESTING of problem trees, the remainder of the crop was slightly spotted and picked a little sooner than one would prefer, or even clean and well-matured.

My general impression is that nutritional sprays of Potassium Silicate, Kelp, and various Copper products, Chelated Calcium, and Boron, improve plant resistance.

And spray with Oxidate (Hydrogen Peroxide, with stabilizers suitable for plants, and approved for "organic production") can improve sanitation.  This is way too DANGEROUS for persons who are ignorantly cavalier about following precautions as specified on labels--- the concentrate can cause instant blindness and severe skin burns and open holes in clothing.  While mixing, one must have rubber apron, rubber boots, heavy rubber gloves, safety glasses and plastic face shield.  AFTER you are finished mixing, then the spray is very safe--- you'd probably be fine with safety glasses and a Speedo!

Vigilant sanitation-harvesting, only of problem trees, beginning as fruits near maturity, seems to make the most difference.  (A quick glance/ spot check of the other trees every couple of weeks will determine if any of those should be checked more.)  Look at both front side and back side of fruits, and check where they are touching each other and where they are touching branches.  Remove any with even the smallest raised, shiny-coal-black spot.  These fruits will be great for the world's many and varied recipes that call for green mangos.

29
So far, I've only had a few LZs on one tree get it this year. My super julie are squeaky clean.

30
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Are these maha chanok ripe?
« on: May 30, 2019, 11:23:34 PM »
Experiment with them a bit to determine the proper eating stage. I like mine a bit on the under-ripe side and eat them at first sign of give to firm thumb pressure.

PS -- you shouldn't notice a difference between tree ripened mangoes and mangoes picked at the mature green stage. Sometimes the latter are actually better tasting, as tree ripened fruit can get internal breakdown or uneven ripening (and maha tends towards internal breakdown).

31
That's an odd one, but I'm pretty sure this is just a case of nutrient deficiency. What seems to happen is -- when a tree is initially planted there is adequate nutrition in the soil, and it grows OK. Over time, the soil gets depleted of nutrition as the tree grows. When you cut the tree back, it loses a major source of nutrition (the leaves) and now has to pull it anew from the soil, which is depleted.

If it were me, I'd invest in a high quality, slow release fertilizer with minors and nitrogen. I would also apply a separate microelement fertilizer. You're probably on sand, so you shouldn't have to worry about pH issues. Just be consistent with the fertlization and make sure to get something that is slow release.

I dont know what I need to do to fix this.

These are grafts on a recently top-worked tree.
The grafts took but the growth is anemic at best.  The leaves are tiny and even when there has been a second flush it sits right on the first making it look more like a rose than a mango (see fourth and fifth picture).

Should I feed this plant Nitrogen, it needs to grow.
I have or can get fertilizer with minors if that is what this baby needs.




This is my most recent graft on the same stump and the first flush here look more normal.  The blue dots are from a recent spray of copper.



In case it is relevant, I don't irrigate or fertilize my lawn - which comes right up next to the tree.  I use a mulching mower to the grass clipping return to the soil.


It has been 3 months since this post and the plant nooks no different.
I want this plant to come back and want to put it on some regime for next season.
I will take very specific suggestions.
So far, I plan on fertilizing, including with nitrogen, once the cold passes.
I will test the soil to confirm that calcium is needed.
I will keep the plant warm through the winter.

Anything else?
Nothing I have tried on this tree has worked.  I am ready to try something drastic or cut the tree down to reclaim the spot.
I will take any suggestions even if failure kills the tree.  My only lemon zest was grafted onto the tree but I have one of everything else so its not a terrible loss.  I had just hoped to take advantage of what was once an extensive root system from a full grown tree.  I assume that by now most of the root system has likely died back.

32
Wet foliage left overnight could cause a fungal infection on tender new leaves. Mango leaves at that stage are particularly vulnerable.

If it were due to the surfactant, I'd have expected larger lesions.

Thanks a lot guys for your replies. I know it's not fungus because it happened overnight after spraying the trees at night time. I guess I can only use Coco wet for palm trees and start using NIS.

33
I was wondering about that myself.

What's ironical is the fact that most organophosphates are very biodegradable and quite safe compared to some of the chlorinated types like the old chlordane.    Take malathion for example.  It quickly breaks down into the harmless phosphate salt it was created from.  You have to know your pesticides.

34
For those interested, here is a list of EPA Reduced Risk fungicides: https://www.epa.gov/pesticide-registration/reduced-risk-and-organophosphate-alternative-decisions-conventional

Sort by pesticide type and look for "F".

I wasn't able to achieve adequate control with organic products, but a mix of organic and RR has done reasonably well.

35
It looks a little bit like a fungal infection. Does your irrigation hit those leaves?

Here are some images from different trees. Perhaps because I used "Coco Wet Organic Wetting Agent"?







36
Hmm, that's odd. You need to spray newer growth for it to work properly. Hardened leaves form some sort of waxy layer that inhibits uptake (leading to a freckled appearance).

Pictures?

I'm now using Hars 0-3-16 and also recently used keyplex 350 for the micros. However, keyplex 350 caused some damaged to new tender growth. Am I not supposed to spray new growth or perhaps I used too much? I used 1 ounce per gallon following the label.  If I went overdosed, what can I do to correct the damage?  Thanks!!

37
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Is My Lychee Tree Sick?
« on: May 29, 2019, 09:54:24 AM »
Don't think it's erinose mite. Here's a picture of the damage:



38
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Jackfruit any Good
« on: May 28, 2019, 01:00:16 PM »
Yikes! Only a doc could afford that.






39
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Question for grafting experts
« on: May 26, 2019, 09:48:57 PM »
Smart idea. It's better for the tree too.

Leave 2 - 3 sprouts.

So my plan is to Top Work 1 Main Branch at a time , because if I Remove all the Branches I’ll loose some privacy I like to star Gaze at night and track objects with my Night Vision 😊, so I would like to Top Work 1 Main Branch at a time even if it takes a few years to accomplish my goal .

Here’s the  Francis Hargrave.


Ps how many shoots should I keep on one branch ?






40
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: New guanabana disease?
« on: May 26, 2019, 09:44:19 PM »
I don't remember. I'll take a look.

Cookie Monster, do you see any larvae in the pulp?  In Brazil there are moth larvae that destroy soursop fruit, leaving large black marks on the surface.

41
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Question for grafting experts
« on: May 25, 2019, 10:19:44 PM »
Grafting to green wood usually gives best rate of take.

42
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Soursop fruiting in living room.
« on: May 25, 2019, 10:18:21 PM »
That's pretty nutty. You must be taking really good car of it.

43
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Soursop is not sour!
« on: May 25, 2019, 10:17:31 PM »
It's a good fruit. There are 2 different types that I've seen -- the sweet + sour and the non-acidic type.

44
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Favorite Wetting Agent
« on: May 25, 2019, 10:34:33 AM »
Here's a decent little list. Tactic looks nice but not sure where to buy it from.

https://www.canr.msu.edu/uploads/files/4-28%20sprayadjuvantsBILL.pdf

45
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Favorite Wetting Agent
« on: May 25, 2019, 10:21:08 AM »
I like Helena's Kinetic.

46
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Is My Lychee Tree Sick?
« on: May 24, 2019, 10:07:00 AM »
OK, then that's odd. You should post a picture.

47
Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: Wtb: Himalayan mulberry tree
« on: May 23, 2019, 07:51:31 PM »
There used to be one at fruit and spice park. Very tasty fruit.

48
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Is My Lychee Tree Sick?
« on: May 23, 2019, 07:49:50 PM »
Potted tree? Recently transplanted?

49
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Let the Lychee war begin...
« on: May 23, 2019, 07:47:13 PM »
OK. So maybe due to the fact that he's north of me, his lychees are a little behind mine eh?

Mauritius lychee ,they have what Dr Crane calls coffee stain on some of the fruit in the pics, also shape and seed size indicates Mauritius coffee stain effects are prevalent on Mauritius and a few other lychee cultivars.But it is a lychee and no lychees are bad when ripe.

50
JF, your alano bearing habit is atypical, at least for the ones I've seen in FL. That looks more like what a silas woulid do here.

For pot culture, silas woiuld be the winner hands down. Small habit and precocious. Makok also has the same characteristics, but the flavor is too strong for me.

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