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Author Topic: Can I grow Muscadine Grape in here ?.  (Read 5293 times)

EvilFruit

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Re: Can I grow Muscadine Grape in here ?.
« Reply #25 on: February 26, 2015, 02:19:29 PM »
I have had great success so far with all the varieties I have tried to root except one. I bought several varieties for a fence/trellis (I am actually kind of proud of it, it's a living fence) and just couldn't leave the excess that I had to prune off on arrival. I put them in pots. My mother-in-law saw a couple pots with "just a stick" in them and planted basil in one and lemongrass in another. Luckily, the one with the basil sent out a shoot through one of the pot drainage holes and the other one grew fine out of the lemongrass. I just used rootone and shoved them into the pots.

I did not have so much luck however, with the cuttings I got from a local vine that was purported to be 400 or more years old from one of the original failed colonies. I think the age of it had something to do with it, or just that I am a novice and took the cuttings when I happened to be in the area rather than when would be a good time to get it.

So, I would say that since my successes were from plants that were shipped to me (and therefore dormant) and not from the ones I cut in June or September, I would say that my experience is that dormant cuttings were more successful.

I have the Triumph cultivar. It grew rapidly and produced in its first year. It had a great juice but the skin was really peppery.

Let me research the rules for sending plant material abroad and see if it's something that can be done. I would like to help people out, but I don't want to violate any laws.

Please Keep us informed if you are able to ship Muscadine internationally.
Moh'd

plantrant

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Re: Can I grow Muscadine Grape in here ?.
« Reply #26 on: March 02, 2015, 08:11:34 AM »
Regarding the Triumph grapes being tangy-spicy, my 3 mature vines have that same issue in a big way. In a few weeks they will get topworked with dormant  cuttings from a much better variety. If existing muscadine vines are making unacceptable fruit, they can be grafted reliably by using cuttings that have 90 degree turns or forked joints where the all-important swollen nodes have tiny reserve buds that are barely visible. Since the cleft grafts heal slowly on the hard wood, the reserve buds will remain dormant for a long time until the sap eventually makes it's way to them through the healed wood, unlike straight cuttings with fat buds that too often bust out into leaves way too early and in a couple weeks just wither away.. The over-abundant sap will flood the cleft grafts unless a notch is cut into the rootstock vine below the graft area to bleed off the excess fluid before it reaches the graft. As long as the notch is wet each AM and the cleft is dry, healing can take place over several weeks. If the cleft is found to be wet during that period, just cut the notch a bit deeper and confirm the next AM if the flow has stopped flooding the graft because it resumed draining at the notch. Eventually both the notch and cleft will become dry, and the tiny buds will finally start growing out.

 

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