Post Pics of Your GRAFTS, and Troubleshoot HERE!

[DimplesLee]

Sugar apple Kampung Mauve - almost a month old graft still in part shade (morning sun from 6am to 9am, then afternoon sun from 2pm to sunset).  What are these black spots? No, I handwater and make sure not to get the stem and leaves wet so not too sure what else could I be doing wrong? Sprayed some fungicide after the black spots started to show - wrong move?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mrx3krin9cfjg4h/IMG_20160402_132055.jpg?dl=0

Also should I rewrap the graft Union or its okay now
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4pjo4vcpcuqeknh/IMG_20160402_132231.jpg?dl=0

[Zafra]

I'm at the 6 week mark with these 2 grafts. The first is Maha, the second Sweet Tart both on the rootstocks that I bought already grafted with Haden. Like 10 days ago I broke off the tops of the Haden grafts to break apical dominance, but they're still there with some leaves. The Maha scion is bright green from tip to toe, but isn't swelling or anything that I can see. The ST scion was always that dark, almost black color, has some definite swelling of buds, but hasn't moved much in the last week. Should I just totally leave them alone, or is there something I should do to stimulate a push? This is testing my patience in a big way

Maha:





ST:

[Zafra]

bumping this in the hopes of getting some guidance from the pros. damn this forum moves fast!

[Guanabanus]

Fertilize

[FrankDrebinOfFruits]

I grafted 2 mangos, they scions were just about to push, but before they could push they turned black. I found these little black weevils in the scion. They were about 1mm long and maybe 0.5 mm wide.  You can see a hole on the right side of the scion. The holes are all over and the weevels were working it over.

Did the weevils cause the scion to die? If so, what can be done differently next time?

Or are the weevils the result of a dying scion?

[Solko]

I tend to think that the weevils came in after the scion struggled, more as the clean-up division of mother nature. But your scion still has one green bud. Do you think that one is alive, or is the entire scion lost at this point?

[Andrew]

I'm worried about the water trapped under the Paraffin tape. I have already removed the Paraffin tape on several of the scions for fifteen minutes to let the moister disappear before reapplying the tape, I'm not sure that is helping much because a few days later I see the water return. It's already been over three weeks since I've grafted them and I've checked the scion wood and they are still nice and alive. So, should I keep removing the Paraffin tape to let the excess water disappear? I've already drastically cut back on the water which seems to be helping a little.

[fyliu]

If your location has enough humidity, you might not need the parafilm. Ask FL people to confirm.

I think if you wrap the parafilm close to the scion, there wouldn't be much condensation. Also, try to keep it cool so it doesn't transpire so much. I normally try to ignore grafts for the first month. One time the sap pushed through on the cherimoya and killed the scion. Probably should have cut an opening at the tip of the scion to let the sap run through.

[Andrew]

If your location has enough humidity, you might not need the parafilm. Ask FL people to confirm.

I think if you wrap the parafilm close to the scion, there wouldn't be much condensation. Also, try to keep it cool so it doesn't transpire so much. I normally try to ignore grafts for the first month. One time the sap pushed through on the cherimoya and killed the scion. Probably should have cut an opening at the tip of the scion to let the sap run through.

Thanks for the response fyliu. This is week six and there is zero signs of new growth. I did check the scion wood and they all appear to be nice and healthy. I've never had scions that took this long to flush before. I'm wondering if it's time I took the electrical tape off? It's on tightly and I'm worried that it may start damaging the scion or rootstock soon.

[Bhkkatemoya]

Here's a graft I did recently on a mango seedling with two shoots.  Should I cut the other shoot or leave it alone? My previous graft failed because I had it in full sun, the scion dried out very quickly.  Going to leave this one in a shaded area. 

[Cookie Monster]

You could wait til the graft hardens off one set of leaves and then snip the other shoot. Or, you could have fun and graft the other shoot to a different cultivar :-)

Here's a graft I did recently on a mango seedling with two shoots.  Should I cut the other shoot or leave it alone? My previous graft failed because I had it in full sun, the scion dried out very quickly.  Going to leave this one in a shaded area. 

[Bhkkatemoya]

Thanks Jeff.  Hopefully 4th time grafting mango will be a charm. 

[funlul]

The leaves on my latest mulberry graft just dried out, probably due to the cruel heat wave, or the tree is not directing enough energy toward it. Will wait it out or try grafting later. Fortunately the scion came from another tree in the yard, so I do not have to hunt for a new scion.

[TheDom]

I did a few approach grafts of some annonas today, pictured here are three I did on a Big Red sugar apple. So far most annonas have been ready to separate in about 2-3wks from graft day.

[FruitFreak]

I did a few approach grafts of some annonas today, pictured here are three I did on a Big Red sugar apple. So far most annonas have been ready to separate in about 2-3wks from graft day.

Nice Work!

[funlul]

The leaves on my latest mulberry graft just dried out, probably due to the cruel heat wave, or the tree is not directing enough energy toward it. Will wait it out or try grafting later. Fortunately the scion came from another tree in the yard, so I do not have to hunt for a new scion.

And it took on the second try, yeah!
White mulberry is bearing fruits now, for some reason.

[TheDom]

The leaves on my latest mulberry graft just dried out, probably due to the cruel heat wave, or the tree is not directing enough energy toward it. Will wait it out or try grafting later. Fortunately the scion came from another tree in the yard, so I do not have to hunt for a new scion.

And it took on the second try, yeah!
White mulberry is bearing fruits now, for some reason.

Congrats! My mulberries like to start flushing out when it gets slightly less oppressively hot. My "Australian" green/white mulberry is currently pushing out and ripening fruit too. My red everbearing one (no variety name) is flushing hard and fruiting some since I hacked it back to the main branches.

[Zafra]

My second avocado graft take, in large part thanks to Carlos's video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wg9T7rh2ed0), is a bud graft. Can anyone guide me as to the next steps? I already topped the seedling, but there's still a few inches of stem and 3 large leaves of the rootstock above the graft. When do I cut that off, and is there anything in particular to do to guide the development of the graft, or should I just let it do its thing?

[CTMIAMI]

A beauty. Great Job!!!! Leave the root stock as long as possible, specially with this type of graft until one of the new shots is strong enough to be able to be tied  up to a support.

[Zafra]

Thank you Carlos! And thanks for all your terrific videos. Will I want to eventually have only one shoot from the graft or is it ok to have one main one for the trunk and a couple of smaller branches from the graft? Also, if you have any fotos of this kind of grafts at more advanced stages I'd LOVE to see them.

[Samu]

I did a few approach grafts of some annonas today, pictured here are three I did on a Big Red sugar apple. So far most annonas have been ready to separate in about 2-3wks from graft day.

Hi Dom, thanks for your excellent step by step photos of your approach grafting technique!
Question for you (and others): How do you line up the cambiums if the main trunk and the "approaching scion" are not of equal size? Or, in case of approach grafting, this cambium lining up is not as critical to... say a regular cleft graft?

[CTMIAMI]

Thank you Carlos! And thanks for all your terrific videos. Will I want to eventually have only one shoot from the graft or is it ok to have one main one for the trunk and a couple of smaller branches from the graft? Also, if you have any fotos of this kind of grafts at more advanced stages I'd LOVE to see them.

That is the idea leave the strongest shoot, but while they are small let them grow a while longer until you can get the one a good support.  I may have photos but will have to find them first

[Guanabanus]

When desperate, graft crooked, so that the cambiums are guaranteed to cross each other.

[fyliu]

When desperate, graft crooked, so that the cambiums are guaranteed to cross each other.

That's what I do a lot of the time when the sizes don't match up.

[FlyingFoxFruits]

dang bro, i have failed every time i tried to graft mulberry.

do you have the Himalayan Red?

it's one of my favorites...I'm noticing the tree grows much slower than than the Australian white....so far seems like it would be easier to keep small....I planted them at the same time, in the same row, and the red is 1/3 the size of the white.

The leaves on my latest mulberry graft just dried out, probably due to the cruel heat wave, or the tree is not directing enough energy toward it. Will wait it out or try grafting later. Fortunately the scion came from another tree in the yard, so I do not have to hunt for a new scion.

And it took on the second try, yeah!
White mulberry is bearing fruits now, for some reason.

Congrats! My mulberries like to start flushing out when it gets slightly less oppressively hot. My "Australian" green/white mulberry is currently pushing out and ripening fruit too. My red everbearing one (no variety name) is flushing hard and fruiting some since I hacked it back to the main branches.