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Do you feel these would be best for grafting or do you think they'd root decently on their own?
Very happy with my order from Frank. Great opportunity to grab some odd ball citrus varieties
I am interested as well.
Yes, I;m interested again. Walt.
My variegated lemon did the EXACT same thing. However, it was a clipping and not a graft. I'm not sure if the variegation causes more weakness and susceptibility to crown rot, etc. I tried treatments using organicide plant doctor and phyton 35 a couple of weeks apart. Anyway, it lost all its leaves and died and I decided to go with a much taller grafted version which has had no problems. Good luck to you!
Has anyone tried growing seeds of Citrus macrophylla ?
I have a lemon rootstock, Citrus macrophylla, that I let grow and now its a pretty tall tree (7-8 ft) and has some large fruits on it. Fruit is still green, size of a large lemon, so I will wait until the fruit turns yellow before I pick them and get the seeds.
I'm planning to grow the seeds and use the seedlings to graft some lemon varieties I have since the seedling rootstock should have stronger roots (tap roots).
Also, has anyone rooted cuttings of the Citrus macrophylla? It may be quicker to grow them from cuttings but I'm not sure how good the root structure will be for use as a rootstock plant.
There is one fungicide which is said to specifically control phytophthera. This is Fosetyl-Aluminium sold as Aliette. See for instance https://www.cropscience.bayer.us/products/fungicides/aliette
As others have said, the best way to guard against the problem is to avoid saturated medium. Make sure water can drain freely through and out of the pot in abround 30 seconds. I also re-plant with the stem raised a little above the surface of the pot mix, even with the highest roots showing.
Root diseases are generally thought to be more prevalent under unfavourable conditions.
Roots in a cold,saturated, wet zone at the bottom of a pot could be alleviated by increasing Air filled porosity and drainage.
Repotting into a taller pots without disturbance may help.
Composted chicken manure ( also a Phosphorous source ) is said to have anti Phytophora properties.
Silica is also seen as a useful addition. Various natural minerals supply Silica, an essential plant nutrient that may be absent from Hydroponics or some pot mixes.
Composted fish fertiliser, with a high crustacean content is said to be useful. Fungi have Chitin based cell walls, as do Arthropods.
Some claim the enzymes in composted crustaceans fertiliser can be anti Fungal.
In Australia composted Eucalypt sawdust is a useful addition to pot mix for root disease suppression, above that of properly composted pine bark.
Other factors that promote root disease are root damage, from incorrect fertiliser application rates, and excessive drying out of the pot mix between waterings.
( drying out increases the fertiliser concentration in the pot mix, more fertiliser in less water ).
Hi frank, my grafted xie shan satsuma started doing this over the winter. i bought "gardenphos" which is a systemic fungicide (phosphorus acid) did a leaf spray made and a soil drench over the course of the winter. so far there has not been any more gummosis from that tree and I haven't noticed it in any of my other plants. Not sure if it was already infected when I purchased it (BriteLeaf) or if it caught it from the enviornment here in NJ. Apparently its phytophthora that causes it and it starts at the roots so treat your soil. it can also enter tree wounds so make sure nothing splashes any cuts or scrapes on your trunk or anywhere you did a graft especially if its going to rain.
also what is your potting medium? does it stay wet for a long time?
The pigmentation concerns me much more than the light.
I note that some compounds are less available at certain temperatures. What temperature are these plants kept at during the winter? I suspect some combination of watering/fertilization/temperature is resulting in deficiencies as the plant grows without the nutrients to sustain the new tissue.
Foliar feeding of chelated iron - which can be as simple as the cooking water from greens - might help.
With my own plants, my only goal over the winter is to keep them alive - they get weak light from a window with indirect exposure, and that's all. They don't grow, but they don't develop deficiency problems either.
