The Tropical Fruit Forum

Hey

I can’t see any close up of the leaves, take a look at this resource and then another look at your leaves to see if you can diagnose the problem, it may be just needing a mineral supplement to rebalance despite inherent soil condition http://era.daf.qld.gov.au/id/eprint/1653/6/5probcus.pdf

I found this resource a while back on this forum and saved it, think it’s something every Annona grower should keep in their personal library.

-joep450

Page 4.

Is this the PM?
Looks great!

Ah, it's Lisa.

I noticed that the shape of the skin on annonas is often used to refer to the fruit, and it is often used in ways that confuse the fruit identity or cause confusion as to the proper fruit.

I found some info which should help with regards to the name of the fruit related to the shape.

Each fruit can vary in skin category for undetermined reasons (most likely pollen source), but usually the fruit fall into one of the five major categories, or somewhere between two of them.

Some of the info in that link conflicts with info I had found previously.

There appears to be some discrepancy between tuberculate and mammilate.

CnC= Cot-n-Candy; yeah, I 've heard this before, but couldn't recall it!
This one stone fruit tree that I don't have, and considering to get one
this Winter; wondering of why did you top it Oolie?

It only had a single living branch due to borers. It also had been a historically poor producer of subpar fruit.

I compared a thriving tree side by side with a seedling apricot, and decided the next day that it was done.

I would recommend an apricot like tropic gold or a pluot instead of CnC, any other fruit really.

From all the reading I have been doing on the topic of PM, it seems that most of it is host specific, that treatment need not be during the time of infection, that the key trigger is dew, and that promoting airflow, and sunshine in the early morning (keeping the plants dry) is the key to prevention.

When all else fails, spraying should help, whether with skim milk, neem or horticultural oils, any anti-fungal, or a pH adjuster.

If it truly is PM that is the issue. I remember that Leo gets plenty of fruit despite serious PM attack of his blooms. If LZ is dropping fruit, who's to say it isn't to do with maturity? I guess we will find out next year.

If you move to San Diego, we have no limit to our supply of rodents.

I am looking to do the same thing to the CnC I just lopped.

FG is still under patent, but I would not be opposed to approach grafting, but that would mean seeking out an already grafted one which is far more difficult than getting the budwood of an off-patent but similarly appreciable variety.

I've already decided some of the tree will be an apricot. Maybe there are some similar low-chill pluots that members of this forum could recommend.

I wonder if it can be converted to a water heater.

We have several varieties in San Diego County, none of which have fruit that I would seek out. The traditional uses of the fruit were to trigger constipation or for use as a laxative depending on stage of ripeness, or at least that is my understanding.

The wood is quite beautiful, and the bark that is shed off each year makes an excellent tea that tastes similar to raspberries.

There are several types, some have several trunks emerging from a single burl, others have typical tree trunks.

I don't think they will do all that well in Austria, as they can handle very limited frost. If you want to try, Madrone may do well for you, it's a similar tree in the Heath family that grows near Napa Valley.

Thanks for the info.  My sis and mom don't want to waste fruit. Want more more more, don't care about the size of the fruit.

For my 2 trees, I didn't expected any fruit first year, but for now, I am happy to if I can keep about 10-20 fruits between the 2 trees by the time Chinese New Year come next year (Atemoya sells for 10.00+ a lb during that time).

Size is one part of it, but tss (sweetness), flesh to seed ratio, and other factors in overall quality of fruit will suffer. If they are looking to sell them, I can't imagine there's a market for marginal examples of the fruit let alone poor examples which lack size, sweetness, and edible flesh.

I may be culturally biased, but I find difficulty imagining anyone seeking out a golf ball sized seedy atemoya.

In my culturally biased opinion, the runt fruit are more of a waste.

Still though, fruit bags are not a factor in the dropping of fruit, the tree is doing this in response to the overburden placed on it.

It is possible, but I have never encountered the issue of shade preventing the fruit to ripen.

In summer, they often fail to color up completely/ sweeten up completely before dropping off.

That said I have had trees abort fruit for several reasons:
1.Drought stress
2.Daily highs too stressful.
3.Overwatering.

Listed in order of likelyhood.

Spring crop is better on these, and is very sweet with excellent subacid balance.

Everything is vigorously flushing here.
How many flushes has your M4 pushed this year?

Some more interesting facts are that the tree is in the soalanaceae family with tobacco, tomato, potato, and eggplant(aubergine).

If you like the flowers you can also grow the trumpet tree, which has similar flowers that hang down vertically, and instead of purple and white, you can find a number of color variations and smells. It's commonly known as tree datura.