Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Plantinyum

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 44
Lovetoplant, nice examples! I especially like the cherimoya!
Is it hard to train the cherimoya like that, my big ones are strongly vigorous, do u keep it a little root bound in that pot to dwarf it ?
They both look very good!

Stonefruit Australia have a few good videos on the pruning of subtropical stonefruit. I used to have a sunraycer and ufo peach on my Tatura, but we have had a few wet years and they both developed conchs and started to decline so they have been replaced with trees more suited to my climate (ilama). In the subtropics stonefruit require pruning twice a year as something like a sunraycer will send up 2 m watershoots between harvest and dormancy. I had mine on a 7 foot tall trellis, but it would definitely send shoots well above that. Really just depends on your growing season. At our location you would have to use lime Sulfur to knock the leaves off and again a few weeks later for fungal control, otherwise they would carry most of the canopy and associated fungal spores into the next bloom.

But have a search for the pruning videos, it will help with maintaining a good crop (which slows the tree down a bit, makes for easier management of size)

Thanks, i do have to spray stonefruit and all of my outside fruit trees actually . I spray 2 times in the fall and one or two times in spring before bloom, with copper sulfate. If i dont spray peaches in particular i get leaf curl which sets the plants back alot.....with this spray regimen i did not have any fungal problems for 2 years.
As for pruning i will do my homework sometime till spring, i guess i should let the plants grow more in the first years ...

The place i have is like 4 meters by 2.5 m , i am thinking of planting 2 nectarines there ,the setup is basically two pipes ,mortered into the ground with a third one connecting them on top. Between them i have several wires places horizontally. I may need to do some vertically also...
The nectarine i want to be using is a variety i got 2 years ago ,the fruit is the best ever and i have two grafted plants from it so wanted to use them....
Yes i will have to look into the pruning technices for the espaliers, it doesnt look hard thought i probably do need to follow some rules dunno...
My carambolla, i am not really sure how to train it since i had a bigger one which was awlays weeping, but then the branches that weeped seemed to lack vigor and eventually died off. This older plant mentioned above is long dead now, it was in the ground in my greehouse, at the end of the first winter it just freaked out and never recovered. When i pulled it out the roots were all dead, it may have been from too much moisture or too cold of a sail. So thats why i am keeping the next one in a container.
 They also have a sparce growth habit for me. Thats why i am looking into alternative shaping ideas.
Nice to know that both guava and starfruit will work as espaliers, i have to think something about the potted guavas first, those are with dense crowns and will be going inside the house, next to a window. With the espalier i qill rotate them regularly so both sides can have some light.
I am thinking of placing some trelises for some of the plants in the greenhouse also, but that will probably be in spring ...

One thing with the tropicals in particular that worries me is the places that the branches touch the metal. It may get cold at times and knowing metal, it translates cold, right? Will this be a problem with them, the metal parts will be painted with some kind of paint to prevent rust.
I think that with temperate cultures its not a problem, since people are doing it / using metal constructions all the time, bit not sure about tropicals in colder climates like mine....

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Can u show me your espaliered fruit trees ?
« on: September 12, 2022, 02:51:56 PM »
So i have a place for two trees to grow as espaliers, those would be temperate ones, probably nectarines.
What species of both temperate and tropical fruit plants have done well as espalliers for u, i am both interested in temperate and tropical species, the tropical ones would be guava, carambolla and cherimoya probably, those will be potted ...

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Wireing avocado for training ?
« on: September 11, 2022, 01:15:53 AM »
I worked on the plant yesterday, ended up using only ropes , it was easier and wasnt damaging on the plant as wire is. I must say that i was extremely surprised at how bendable the branches were, i made some 180 degree turns without any breakage,  not a single branch broke. None of the plants i have worked with can do this, even willows which are extremely bendable,  do not compare.....
So ,enough bragging,  here's the before pics.... i fucked up the post real bad ,the last two pics are the before....

And here is the after , ive succesfully created a weeping avocado haha 😂

The tender growth is awready changing its direction and started going up.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Wireing avocado for training ?
« on: September 10, 2022, 09:12:41 AM »
Nice, thanks for the visuals !! They look quite flexible, especially the thin one u have bend this hard. I will proceed to bend the thick ones today, and will get a wire that is encased in rubber for the thinner ones, so that the metal doesnt touch the branch directly...

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Wireing avocado for training ?
« on: September 09, 2022, 12:39:40 PM »
Never tried wire but I have used rope before.  Branches that still have some green on them or branches around 1-2in thick are easy to manipulate. You can stake the rope to the ground or tie it off to the trunk. You can also use weights to bend branches like fruit would. Feel the branch out when bending and start slow. After a month or so of growing you can add more pressure and bend more. The best thing to do though is bend the branch while it's green and young, which can be done by hand. When bending young branches you can slightly fracture them to change position and they'll heal fine. Pay attention while it's growing as the rope can girdle the branches as the wood thickens. I can post some pics later for reference.
Thanks ! I would sure appriciate some pics!
The branches i want to manipulate are all with green bark, the thick ones are around a finger thick . There is one that is the fattest of them all , on this one i am thinking of making small incisions on the down side and bend it with a rope tied to the trunk, just like you suggest!
I way mess with the plant tomorrow, will take pics before and after, in my mind for the space i have it must be trained in a weeping stile...

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Wireing avocado for training ?
« on: September 09, 2022, 05:45:54 AM »
Anyone?  For the thick ones i may use some technices for bending branches from a avocado grower in Japan i think,  from an article that a kind forum member  provided. I still want to try wiring on it, i saw some branch benders that look neat ,but i will need alot and it just gets too expensive this way.
I will just try it with alumminium and/or copper wire...

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Wireing avocado for training ?
« on: September 07, 2022, 12:38:50 AM »
My avocado got out of hand ,the branchesh are all cramped near the gh top, i want to get them to kinda weep down if possible. Some of them are too thick to be safely lured down, but those i will gradually try to fasten down with ropes. For the thinner ones i want to use some kind of wire to hopefully guide them down and make a weaping habbit out of it.
Is this a safe way to do it, does avocado have a thin fragile bark that would get damaged by wire, i could try to find a wire that is coated with plastic, like a cable of sorts...
The way it is now it just makes alot of shade for the other plants, i cand really let it spread too much..

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Time for air layering ??
« on: September 05, 2022, 12:45:49 AM »
Galatians,  yes the plant is a juvenile and has never flowered or fruited for me, i believe the tree is around 3 uears old now .
I now wonder if i should take out the original one and plant one air layer instead. I believe the air layer will be much more contained in its growth and size ,due to the lack of tap root..?

Achetadomestica, i will remove the layers today, since theyve been on for enough time. I will prune them hard, plant in small pots and hope for the best.
The catley guava btw does not show any roots , i am removing them also and will pot them , seems they are harder to take ,compared to the regular guava.


Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Time for air layering ??
« on: September 04, 2022, 05:00:03 PM »
Here are the two airlayers of the avocado that took. I originally set 5 on the plant, but ended up removing the others early ,they had calouses and would have been rooted by now. Anyway i didnt expect nothing to work out of the 2 remaining ones that i removed 2 weeks ago. I was ready to put them into the mulch pile ,but when i uncovered the aluminium and nylon from the moss, i saw roots ! One of them had a nice branched root, the other didnt had visible roots but i inspected and it had root starts in the center. I regreted at the minute and thought that they are goners due to the weak roots at the time. I should have left them till now...
Anyway i potted them into small cups and placed them in the shade in the gh, pruned them hard and left only the leaves that u see in the pics.
They are starting to grow now, so avocado is doable with air layering, at least this particular one that i have is willing to strike....

The guava airlayers are doing very poorly,  having just a weak root or two, i think its due to the fact that the layers are weak branches at the bottom of the plants , in shade.
A tip for myself is to just prune those in the future and use strong branches that are in the light for air layers...

Here are the avocado strikes ...

Ps : excuse the led in the photo lol  ;D

I would recommend Anatoki or Kaiteri pineapple guavas from New Zealand.    They are supposed to be superior varieties with large size and excellent flavor and probably can cross pollinate with your variety.  I don't think Unique is considered one of the best tasting, but if you were just going to have one variety can set on its own.  If you can't find them, I can try to share seeds with you if mine fruit next year.

thanks for the info and for the seed offer, i do have two other plants which did not flower this season again, they may flower next summer, who knows....i would have crossed them if they had flowers but nada... i dont really want to go the seed route since it will take a long time probably for them to mature, i will look up the garden centers for the varieties u reccomend , if they dont have them i will buy some other variety just for the sake of cross pollination.
I do not know why my  other two plants do not want to bloom, they are the same size or bigger than the one that does bloom....

Thanks for the kind words to all!

JCorte, my pineapple guava is the variety gemini which is supposed to be a self fruitfull one also, but for a second year it just sheds the flowers. I have to check if i'll find the variety u suggest here...

Thanks for the link about the avocado , i'm off to check what on it now...
Edit: thats a very interesting article with alot of technigues involved. Seems like they are basically growing the trees like a vine of sorts, via supporting the branches....
I was thinking of how to bend the branches on mine down and here are shown some nice ways, i think that i may have to first graft the plant, its a seedling thus thats why its so vigorous i think.

Ive been wanting to do an update of the greenhouse  for quite some time so here it is !

Here u can see the lemon, mandarin, red and regular pomello..

This is the surinam cherry


 Dragonfruit , yellow megalantus and unknown undatus ones, the megalanthus is the one that is just reaching the top of the post...

Epiphyllum quatemaliensis,  supposedly a self fruiting curly weeping wpiphyllum with a nice fruit ,similar to df.

Pineapple and a tipe of coffee

Passiflora edulis just reaching the trellis spot.

Carissa - natal plum

Salak seedlings

Pachira aquatica

Coffee arabica- not doing very well this year, didnt want to grow at all so i placed it some shade cloth and this kinda provoked it to do a growth flush, again weak performance..

Pineapple guava- bloomed like hell and still didnt set anything even with hand pollination

Monstera , some monstrous size leaves on this , i wonder if i should build it a trellis or to place a pole for it to climb on, or just let it creep on the ground ?

Aloe vera, an edible variety, i ate from it on several occations and didnt had any side effects, its a bit too shady for it at the place so its not really growing much..

Cherimoya , i have two plants/trees
The one with the abundant fruit set, there are probably around 40 fruitlets on this plant..

The stingy one with just a few fruitlets

Avocado wants to be a canopy tree and i am having and will have problems with this in future, the size of it is just not for this gh..

Yellow catley guava having some fruit set

Strawberry guava also having quite a few fruits, both it and the yellow one had a second flowering and set a second crop..

Regular guava, i have 4 different plants
The two that didnt do much this year except growing

My favorite one, the fruit is just amazing very sweet and floral,  unfortunately the plant is having some root problems and is kinda weak so it may not make it trough winter.

The most productive one, its fruit is also jumbo size, they get very big with weight around 200-250 grams each. The taste was not as good though, hopefully it gets better . The plant had an june bloom on which it set the bigger fruits, and recently had a following bloom on which it set fruit abundantly.

Oranje jasmine

A  passionfruit we identified here at the forum as passiflora decaisneana, it will be havind its first blooms in a day or two...

Lemon grass

Djackfruit, potted and inground, just a disaster ....

Mango seedling, the deffinition of a slow grower....its not getting much light so this may be the reason...

Cherimoya aproach grafts, from last and this year...

Thanks for all the ideas to all of u, at this point i wonder if i should do anything to the soil really, i changed my mind regarding sand and would now use perlite as i awready have some sand in there. However, i wonder if i wont end up damaging the roots of the plants, or end up creating a drier top layer that needs more water, but having the same moisture retentive soil below ,which may become excesively moist due to the regular wattering of the drier upper layer. I kinda regret i didnt add everithing needed to the soil from the start. I'll just have to constantly be carefull with the wattering there, at least until the plants get strongly rooted into the soil.
I'll keep on adding organic matter from time to time, also compost and will try the thing with the charcoal as its interesting for me what will happen.

Mark in Texas , here we are were also having a severe drought along with some unusually high temps this summer, thank god i have a well which does not go dry even with my daily waterings, in a good wattering day i would use arround 300  litters of water.
I also collect rain water when i can, now i have 5 barrels of 100+ leters of rain water collected , right now we are in a rainy period and some places even had flods coused by severe storms.


1rainman , the staff at the hydroponic store also reccomended perlite for clay soil. Right now i am having a slight problem with the wattering, becouse of the mulch and  mainly the compost i added, the soil on top seems to stay moist for longer , thus forcing me to dig deeper near the root ball to check what the moisture level is. I do think that some of the plants may benefit from a little less water from time to time, i havent watered them for 4 days now, we are having a nice cloud cover theese days and i'm using this accurance to hopefully dry out the soil a bit . I just awlays feel that i either am not giving them enough water or i am overwatering them... mulch is kinda tricky since it retains the moisture and it may play a nasty joke to someone like me that is used to wattering daily....

Galatians52  interesting thing u say about the worm tipes and their behaviour, its true that when i dig in the soil the compost worm are in the compost and near the organic matter, the regular ones i find deeper.  I also have a thread about adding worm in the gh soil, the reviels were kinda mixed. The two worm tipes may work in a team, the compost ones help brake down the coarse organic matter, the garden ones then take the finer stuff deeper into the soil layer...
Interesting tip about the charcoal, ive also read that people charge charcoal with soluble fertilizers and then add it to the soil, at which point it start releasing the fertilizer slowly. I can leave some bigger pieces which can act as a fert batterie. Ive read many times about charcoal but never got to try it . I suppose i could also use the BBQ  one in the bags ?

Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Passiflora incarnata
« on: September 02, 2022, 02:47:07 AM »
Vnomonee, nice u are having fruits! Guite a variation on those two also.
My plant is not doing verry well i think, i may have a strain thats not so vigorous , it just produced one single vine and flowered bud no fruit set this time. I wonder if i should overwinter it inside the house to preserve the above ground portion and will plant it in the ground next spring.
It really doesnt do as well as other passiflora i have.....


I do want to start a worm bin , i will set one but in spring since were getting cold for this now, end of september marks the start of the frosts and low temps, do such worm bins operate in winters in cold climates?
Also from where are u folks getting the worms to start it, fish store? 

Spread a tarp on the ground and then dig out your topsoil and put it on the tarp. Just dig around the plants trying not to disturb them too much but in a nice wide, deep bowl shape and put the dirt on the tarp. Mix your amendments on the tarp and then shovel it back into place. Walk around it to tamp it in good and then water well. You can sub vermiculite or perlite for sand. If you have sandy soil it might not be necessary. But, if it has a lot of clay in it yeah you want to increase the drainage.

This is possible, i dont think the plants are too rooted arround yet so i should be able to do that, i am worried of tdoing this thought , since were closing up on winter and i dont want to stress them too much. I'm also thinking about perlite as a substitute for the sand, ive used perlite with good results.

Mark in Texas - yes the soil is kinda clayey, when i was preparing the area i removed alot of it and replaced it with forest top soil/ the humus layer right below the leaf litter, which as a result made it better. The soil really is not that bad ,it could be better tho. The other day i watered the heck out of my passion fruit thats in the gh becouse i overfertilized it, i used around 20 leters or more of water to an awready moist soil, the next day the soil was the same, moist but not wet.
Ive noticed that there are spots that stay too wet and ones that need wattering more often, which may be due to an established vs a non yet established plant, dunno...

When i was preparing the soil in the gh i did add sand for drainage and poriosity, i think i added less than what i need.
I understand that spreading it on top of the soil wont work, so i had the idea of making holes in the soil with a sharp obcect ,then filling those holes with sand . The soil really isnt bad , but i have some places that hold a bit of an excess moisture so would like to help with the drainage everywhere if possible.
Is this a good idea ?

Worms, while they are good for the garden, if the get in pots, it can be a nightmare. They end up turning the bottom of the soil to basically mush. Not good for plants. I understand that it should be fine in a greenhouse, but if the pots are on the ground the worms will go into them. Here the majority that I find are actually invasive and should be killed. They do more harm than good.

I find "wild" worms even getting into plants raised up on wire racks well above the ground.
They may be coming in as juveniles in the potting mix or climbed up.

I have a large vermiculture system holding 5 cubic yards(~4 cubic meters) and some worms migrate out of that system and get into pots. However, most of my potted plants and trees are only temporary in pots for propagation and are transplanted to ground by year 2. I do notice the worms break down potting soil and this wouldn't be a good practice for trees to remain in pots. I expect they do add fertility when they are active in the potting soil.

By the way that looks like a nice greenhouse, will the outside part be a pond ?

Ive seen what worms do to soil in pots , their poop once produced holds alot of water when wattering ,the soil moisture becomes hard to control. Against the popular believe i dont think ive had plant roots getting eaten by them , they do like to pull on leaves that are toching the ground though.
I wanted to add them since they will help to brake down the mulch on top, theres no way of removing them now, i only can add more...
I dont have potted plants in the gh, just a few pots which wont be there for long, so everithing is planted right into the soil.

Most new homes here use pex for hot water lines.
Heater at 140F.
Pressure at 50 psi.

If you can regulate temperature and pressure pex would be fine.
Our sistem does not allow the water temp or the fire strength  to be regulated, from time to time the water starts boiling when the fire gets too strong...

Two weeks ago i collected guite alot of manure worms to my soil in the greenhouse, i collected them from my compost pile located in the near forest. I wonder if i should collect some more.
I also added some compost on the top of the soil and now when i dig a bit i find a few worms at each spot, both  the manure ones and the standard garden ones. Before i added the compost i could hardly find any garden worms in the soil, seems that it is attracting them .
Is there a risk to overpopulate the soil with them, i have alot of mulch on top of the soil so they should have enough to eat?

Thanks for the insights, i will be carefull with it, ive watered my plants a week or so ago with the above said concentration, as of now no leaf burn or anything that would suggest that i overdid it.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 44
SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk