The Tropical Fruit Forum

Johnny Eat Fruit, thanks for the reference! Beautifful tree!

I would be interested to see pictures of the trees, if anyone has the time to share. Thanks!

I just got this macadamia, the plant is exceeding 2 meters in heigh, not grafted i suppose, did not see any graft scars. The leaves are quite prickly, at the base of the stem i found a falf buried shel, suppose its from the seed that the plant was grown from, as it has the right shape.
So now that i know that the plant is a seedling, will i be able to get it to fruit on its own? I will plant it in my greenhouse , inground, heated in winter. My main concern is if it would be able to bear without a companion?

As for acidification i once applied peleted silfur, 3 to four years down the row and the pellets look still as new, havend degraded one bit , they are burried, the ones on the surface are the same. Ive thought to hammer the pellets , until they get a flour consistancy, and apply that.
I must say that all of my blueberries do not usually show any sighns that the soil may be too alkaline. The container ones are planted in a clayey soil, with forest soil added to it, along perlite, not ideal if you ask me, but they are doing very good, ladt year they had a heavy crop, this year will be a lighter one.
I have one bush also planted in a clayey soil, inground, also doing wonderfull, dark green leaves at all times trough summer.
I havent used any acidification on all of them, also do not fertilize that often, which is an irony in relation to the topics name😂, i just cannot get to fertilize regularly.....

Thsnks !

Wonder what kind of plinia this is, its easy to tell it is not the regular sabata tipe jaboticaba, what could it be?

Thanks! I did them ,exactly as the videos show, from what i sal in them, roots form first at the part that has been cut, the plant will probably make roots on the other side, but after separation. What they dont show in the videos, is that most of the leaves should be removed, after you cut it out, which is my general practice with every air layer.
I will report a success or a failure in a few months.

I transplanted mine into pots as they were vary shaded in the ground in my gh. Placed them in full sun outside and they absolutely took off. They were kinda when so didnt have much root to them, but i am sure the species is quite resilient. Try to take them with as much durt and roots as possible, that way the shock will be minimal.

Some cherimoya are biannual meaning every odd years it will produce massive flowers.  If you are feeding with a bloom fertilizer and your wood is 1 year old or greater, it will produce an abundance of flowers.  My trees is a heavy producer every odd year.

Thanks! Ive read that they can be alternate bearing patterns with cherimoya, i see it as a reason for one of the plants, the one that had 50 fruit last year, really had a bumper first crop.
The other one though,  it had 2 fruits last year, this year set only 3 from an odd flowering that was in late winter ,as far as i remember. The main bloom ,which i tried to trigger was very weak and scattered, coudnt pare the flowers and didnt had fresh pollen most of the time. The plant did manage to set a few fruit, but there was a day with with very hot temps in the greenhouse and it aborted all but 2 of them.
Interesting enough,  i found the reason why i get black necrotic spots on the leaves from time to time, it was from the heat, the day after it i saw alot of fried looking spots on the leaves, which turned bark brown and didnt grew in size. They dont like temperatures above 30C .

I will feed them in advance with a bloom fertilizer, before i try to trigger a bloom , i have fed them a few times with such ferts this year, but didnt see a difference, they were with their leaves on ,so this should be preventing the buds from waking up, as usually.

Nice looking plant, congrats!

Is the rind thick and edible on this species? My plant had just a few flowers, nothing set, i failed to grow caerulea and alata to flower,  to cross pollinate. Alot of flower buds aborted, plant is growing as normal.

This article was in my files and it might interest you.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.researchgate.net/publication/286771478_Development_of_a_New_Technique_to_Produce_Winter_Cherimoyas&ved=2ahUKEwjvlrDYprqCAxWEaDABHenZAnQQFnoECAsQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2t4hHk0yjA31JgX-6nB8fR

Downloaded and saved! Thank you! Judjing by the pruning done here and on other places ive seen, i am not pruning enough. I will have to do a major prune next year, the canopies are getting too bushy, i just havent had the heart to prune mine like that, seems quite severe but being greenhouse grown in a limited space, will have to do it.

My cherimoya never sees below 53F (12C) or so and flowers like crazy

More good news! I was thinking that they need more cold to triger blooming, since thats what some articles claim.
The low percent of blooms must have been a result of the vety late leaf strip, i remember we had the strongest heat waves in this period also, so this may also have coused it.