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Messages - Plantinyum

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1201
Temperate Fruit Discussion / General question on temperate trees
« on: November 21, 2020, 12:46:48 PM »
Hello, I have a question regarding temperate trees , both fruiting and non fruiting. Do roots on temperate trees continue to grow in winter ,when the tree is dormant? I was transplanting some pine trees and one cherry the other day and the lone cherry and some of the pines had white growing tips on some of their roots ,indicating a happening growth. Is this typical with all the trees, the reason for asking is cuz I was wondering what is the best time to transplant such plants, spring or fall.
I know it has to do also with the plants type ,but if say a cherry like in my case is planted in fall and grows some roots trough winter, I suppose the tree will be in better condition to start spring growth when nature permits ,than say a plant which is planted/transplanted in spring and has all its roots damaged or disturbed to some degree.
I want to hear your thoughts on this, thanks ☺

1202
If u use such trellis type make sure  to fix the tops of the wood polls to the wall, that way it will be sturdier. If its all around concrete u can even skip the buckets filled with concrete and just have the wood pole sit right an the ground, just ajust the angles on both sides so it is nice and fits the angles of the surfaces. I would suggest having a wood pole around every meter of distance the area u are considering has. Then u just make small holes with the wood driller, big just enough for the wire , that are spaces eavenly on the length  of the poles , just do not stretch the wires too much so they dont curve in the poles.

For the pots I have one purple pf planted in a big cutted out drum . If planting in the ground is not an option, u should use a rather big pot with an airy and porous substrate. 
My telephone does not let me to upload a pic of my plant at the moment, will try later....

1203
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Soursop question
« on: November 20, 2020, 04:21:12 PM »
Cherimoyas are doing good for me for around tree years now. Seedlings. They overwinter inside my house near a south window and are currently  dropping some of their oldest leaves. I havent had any problems with them so far, in summer they use a lot of water, now I water them more sparingly.

1204
I think the best u can do and easiest also is to mount a thin cattle panel fence onto the wall. I have seen this work very well for other people....

1205
I think you should leave a bit more space between the trellis and the wall simply for ease of pruning and management, air circulation for the plant and also to not have fruit trapped in the slim void between wall and plant.

1206
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Feijoa cold tolerance ??
« on: November 16, 2020, 01:50:19 PM »
I think Feijoas can withstand far more cold and frost than most people suspect, although it might as well depend on the soil, frost duration and microclimate.
I can only speak from my own experience: I have one Feijoa plant grown from seed permanently planted outside in the ground since 2017. 
The frost period here usually extends from November to February and March (around 75 frosty days on average).
Winter 17/18 was exceptionally cold with minimum temperatures of -18°C / -0,4°F (see image for detailed temperature chart). During these cold spells I only covered my Feijoa with some fleece and some conifer twigs and no active heating or whatsoever. To my surprise my plant survived almost undamaged with only some frost burnt leaves on top and has recovered perfectly fine since then.


thanks for the tip, -18C  and not a lot of damage, that perfectly corresponds with the hardiness temps given for feijoa by the nurseries I have bought my feijoas. Is your plant planted in a sunny place in winter, I have read that u have to shy away from places that get direct sun in the winter when considering planting a feijoa...
By the way has your  plant flowered yet and how big has it grown by now ?

1207
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: long stem papaya
« on: November 13, 2020, 08:53:39 AM »
The one with the bra is just genius hahha ;D

Isn't the second photo a male papaya, I know they fruit sometimes ,but with general poor fruit quality


1208
Similar experience.  Planted this spring from germination last August.  Requires hand pollination.  First fruit in October.  Takes about 3 months from pollination to fruit drop.  I haven't tried pollinating any since September though, since I'm not expecting them to hold any through winter.  Some of the last pollinated fruits have started aborting, but that could also be due to massive caterpillar attacks also.
for me the purple edulis types also take around 3-4 months to ripen , I also always hand pollinate, thought have had fruit from flowers I did not pollinate. My fruits always ripen inside the house when I take my plants in for the winter, but I also quit hand pollinating them around middle of august ,since inside the house is too dark to have any fruit thats not very close to maturity ,be able to make it.

I also have flavicarpa's which are seedlings whom started flowering too late this year ,so i'll have any reviews regarding fruiting next summer.

Quite interesting. I didn't have much success with them, summer here it's too hot and the purple doesn't grow well. In spring/autumn the do well. I had few grafted and planted them in ground, now they are 5m long, too bad they need to die soon.
do you water them regularly when its hot ? Mine like alot of water, were yours planted in full sun or close to any objects that heat extensively in the day ? Only thing that comes to my mind is if the plants  are too small and if in full sun they may not be able to handle it.
U got me puzzled since this is a tropical plant and I have had yellows and purples in one greenhouse which has had temps above 41C at times , and they did not had problems other then the tips that tuch the nylon getting burned abit.
First drops, next to purple possum



Remaining fruit from first group


Hopefully, the second group will make it to December


Latest fruits aborting (haven't seen that in purple before)


They are really tart, but that's about it.  If you wait for them to wrinkle up, they lose the tart, but not much flavor left.  I'm thinking to juice them while tart and then I can add sugar to taste.  Not sure how best to juice them though.  I lose a lot of pulp with just a sieve.
 Wife eats them with salt.  I don't know if the flavor will change next year, but if not, they'll be replaced with purples.  Tried to pollinate some with purple pollen, but no luck so far.  Also tried the reverse, but not sure since the purple pollinates itself too easily, so not sure if those fruits will have any flavicarpa crossed seeds.  Might keep one vine for future crossing experiments.


those look very good , if u really want replacing them why not try grafting purple onto the yellows rootstock . The established roots of the yellows should push vigorous geowth on the purple scions . Just an idea......

1209
Similar experience.  Planted this spring from germination last August.  Requires hand pollination.  First fruit in October.  Takes about 3 months from pollination to fruit drop.  I haven't tried pollinating any since September though, since I'm not expecting them to hold any through winter.  Some of the last pollinated fruits have started aborting, but that could also be due to massive caterpillar attacks also.
for me the purple edulis types also take around 3-4 months to ripen , I also always hand pollinate, thought have had fruit from flowers I did not pollinate. My fruits always ripen inside the house when I take my plants in for the winter, but I also quit hand pollinating them around middle of august ,since inside the house is too dark to have any fruit thats not very close to maturity ,be able to make it.

I also have flavicarpa's which are seedlings whom started flowering too late this year ,so i'll have any reviews regarding fruiting next summer. 

1210
Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Persimmon pot culture
« on: November 12, 2020, 06:44:18 AM »
I am zome 7 here, do not know a or b thought, dont remember by the map I had looked over. I haven't seen many persimmon trees in my region, thought I've seen big fig trees/ bushes and have one pomegranate that is growing in the ground with passive protection in winter, which I will not protect this winter. I know this maybe has nothing to do with persimmons , but if I'm not wrong these three species seem to grow best in the same climate/zone. Now people here just seem to not plant such trees ,so this may be the reason that I do not see them very often,and not the climate itself.
By the way I assume mine are kaki since are grafted , don't know the varieties of both the rootstocks and scions .

For Europe, you can't find a map, as far as I know, where the zones are broken down to A's and B's, so you have to calculate that yourself. Bear in mind that US hardiness zones system is only partially applicable to Europe, especially in the higher zones, because for example you have places in Florida listed as zone 8 which will have daily high temperatures of +20C even in January. I would say that most Asian persimmons are borderline in your climate. To be safe, you should plant them in sheltered spots and give them some protection for the first few years. Also, if you can get some hybrids like "Nikita's Gift", that would be a good option as they would have no problems in your climate.

Persimmon trees do well in zones 6 and 7. They are hardy to 10 degrees

10F is 7b to 8a. Zone 6 starts at -10F to -5F.
thanks for the info , I will try to find them a somewhat sheltered spot ,to plant in the ground.
I have one spot which gets good ammount of sun, but has no cold wind protection, do u think if I tye the trees somehow in autumn and place over them white drums to just stop the cold wind will help. Obviously this will be not double in a few years ahead when they get bigger....

1211
They should cross pollinate well , thought if you dont have pollinators u may need to do some hand pollination...

1212
Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Persimmon pot culture
« on: November 11, 2020, 08:37:56 AM »
Persimmon isn't cold sensitive.  You should plant it in the ground if you can.  The internet says good to zone 4 or 5.

That may be so for the American persimmon Diospyros Virginiana. Asian persimmons Diospyros Kaki are zone 7 trees, or 6b with some varieties.
I am zome 7 here, do not know a or b thought, dont remember by the map I had looked over. I haven't seen many persimmon trees in my region, thought I've seen big fig trees/ bushes and have one pomegranate that is growing in the ground with passive protection in winter, which I will not protect this winter. I know this maybe has nothing to do with persimmons , but if I'm not wrong these three species seem to grow best in the same climate/zone. Now people here just seem to not plant such trees ,so this may be the reason that I do not see them very often,and not the climate itself.
By the way I assume mine are kaki since are grafted , don't know the varieties of both the rootstocks and scions .

1213
They are difficult to air layer. I think Plantinyum is right about treating like a cutting with a bag and root hormone and hope for the best.
I also have another air layer on the tree ,but I will leave it till I see some roots, if it ever produces....Mike T have u ever tried to layer carambola, I assume u have ..how much time did the layers took to root ??

1214
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Citrus greenhouse overwintering question
« on: November 09, 2020, 11:56:56 PM »
The greenhouse has a mortar base, which is isolated and is deep into the soil, the soil in the greenhouse is isolated from the outside soil. I am thinking if making hols in the soil for the pots, burry the whole pot into the soil to regulate its temp, and just open the greenhouse while sunny , to not get so hot inside.

I have not watered them for around a month, the soil in their pots is moist, I will keep them on the dryer side.


What's the lowest temp they could handle, I know the rootstocks give some hardiness to, and that the lemons might be more cold sensitive. In the nursery I bought the grafted  pomello and kumquat from, one of the employees said they keep them in the greenhouse without aditional warmth, and that the citruses were handling temps around minus 6-7 C.

1215
Cold Hardy Citrus / Citrus greenhouse overwintering question
« on: November 09, 2020, 02:58:06 PM »
Hello , I have two pomello's from which one is a seedling , the other is grafted onto flying dragon rootstock. Have also a mandarin, two unknown lemons and one kumkuat grafted onto flying dragon. I have a unheated greenhouse I which I thought to winter them, but in the day the temp inside gets to 35C and sometimes above. The nights are cool and this amplitude worries me a little, will they be okey? In the coldest times I will take them in my basement ,and when warmer will be putting them out. Will it be too hot for them in a sunny day, I can just open the doors and windows to cool them up, and close them one our before sunset to generate some heat for the night...thanks for any replies.

1216
You could put the plant in a large sealed plastic bag with the stem in peat moss to make a mini greenhouse. Keep in a warm area near a window or try aerating the plant with an aquarium type air stone if you leave it in water.
thanks for the reply, I will plant it in a small pot with peat moss, some rooting hormone on the cutting and add a plastic bag over it for humidity.hope it roots, should have left it on the plant ,but the impulse got me this time ...😀

1217
Hi, I cutted this air layered branch yesterday when I saw that the leaves on it were yellowish compared to the whole plant. Is still has green leaves, just not as vibrant green as the others . My question is ,does it have any chance of rooting, it does not have any roots at the moment, thought has calloused very well. Is there any way of stimulating it to form roots, right now the branch is sitting in a glass of water with some rooting hormone added.
Thanks  :)







1218
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Transplanting guava and others myrtaceae
« on: November 08, 2020, 12:52:53 AM »
Hello, I dont have any tips regarding your question, but just wanted to ask if your jaboticaba trees were bought from an italian nursery, and if you could provide the name of the nursery that would be great. Thanks
As for your question, I have not done this with such plants  but from my 2cents standpoint, I think u should do this when its cooler and provide some kind of shade for them in the first few weeks , and water them on a regular basis. 
I think u could transplant them anytime,since your putting them in a greenhouse, but I would pick a cooler time of the year and possibly in early spring before the growing season starts. Thats from a personal experience , thought with deciduous plants.

1219
Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Persimmon pot culture
« on: November 06, 2020, 12:19:39 AM »
Persimmon isn't cold sensitive.  You should plant it in the ground if you can.  The internet says good to zone 4 or 5.
thanks, so this winter they are in the basement again and in spring I will plant them in the ground, to have all sumer to settle into their new home and get ready for the winter.

1220
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Papaya problem
« on: November 06, 2020, 12:11:26 AM »
Could it be something fungal then , a close up of the place could help someone diagnose it .

1221
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: What do you use to fertilizer your plants?
« on: November 05, 2020, 02:22:07 PM »
I think chicken manure is the hottest and most intense . Have never fertilised with chicken manure since have no source for it. In my experience manures are tricky since I have used half aged animal manures on vegetables and have not since had any burns on them, but the same manure applied on trees/ potted seems to burn some of them...

1222
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: long stem papaya
« on: November 05, 2020, 12:11:29 PM »
Hello , I think those papayas that u are talking about are air layered papaya tops or side branches , there are videos where they show how it works. With air layering the plant is mature at the time of separating from the original and does not waste time with growing tall, dus produces papayas that literally lay on the ground. I do not know for sure ,but have heard of such varieties whom produce fruit on smaller plants ,started from seeds /dwarfs.

Now I saw u were talking bout the actual stem of the fruit ,in this case I dunno ....

1223
Temperate Fruit Discussion / Persimmon pot culture
« on: November 05, 2020, 10:19:45 AM »
Hi, does anybody have experience with persimmons growing in pots ? How is the fruiting compared to a in ground one, do they produce regularly and an amount of fruit that justifies the effort ? I have tree potted plants which have not fruited yet since are small , but i'm debating if I should plant them in the ground , or continue to raise them in pots. The thing is I do not know the varieties of them, so dont know their cold hardiness . The plants are grafted ,so must be some known varieties. In winter we almost surely have occasions where temps like 5F are present, and sometimes we get to -4 F / rare occasions . Now when they are potted I bring them in an unhited basement for winter.

So my question I as ; should I continue to raise them in pots, which is not a big problem for me if I get a worthwhile ammount of fruit, or should I plant them in the ground if they have a chance to not die back regularly from cold .
Thanks !

1224
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: What do you use to fertilizer your plants?
« on: November 05, 2020, 08:28:05 AM »
I use fish emulsion/home made , leaf fertilizers such as kristalon /have only used the green one. I make a liquid fertilizer with soaked animal manure and sometimes I water my plants with ammonium nitrate dissolved in water thought with the last one I have burnt some of my plants a few times so do not recommend doing this. I also top dress my pots with manure from time to time .
Have never followed any regimen for fertilization, I tried but seem to forget dates of application and etc...thought I believe for optimal results u should make a routine ...

1225
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Germinating mamey sapote seeds
« on: November 03, 2020, 12:59:10 AM »
Here in the grocery stores the seeds are almost always sprouted in the fruit. I just stick mine in the soil and wait. Nothing special.

That is what I did this summer. I put the seeds in some 4" pots with Miracle-Gro potting soil and placed them outside in a place where they could get some morning sun but not be blasted by the August heat. They had all already began cracking in the fruit. They germinated in less than a month and are growing quite vigorously.

Since the original poster is in Bulgaria and it is starting to get cooler in temperate climes, placing them outside will not work. Simply put them in small pots with sterile potting soil on a heating mat or near a radiator or any other place where the temperature is over 70°F.
yeah ,my case is difficult since winter coming now, today I will desinfect and plant them and yes will place them on my radiator next to a window, the one that was originally cracked ,has cracked some more after the water soaking .
Actually I am thinking of starting them in ziplock baggy method ,since seems to me that is the easiest way for keeping them sterile as possible. Last time I planted them in a pre heated soil, in order to sanitise it, but they rotted in the end . Not saying that was the reason thought...

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