The Tropical Fruit Forum

Just to join the "size matters" group, I went out and measured my big white sapote tree.  It is 26-27 inches at ground level.  It is a Vernon tree mainly, but with Pike on 1/2 and  several others grafted on also.  It is by itself so roots are not a problem.  It is a massive tree and fruit fall is huge.  About 45-50 years ago when I planted it, I was told to keep it far away due to the fruit fall.  Found that to be very true.

Zone 9B, Nipomo, CA.  White and yellow sapotes are weeds here.  Fallen fruit everywhere, sprouts, etc. Black sapotes have flowered, no fruit set (have 3 in ground).  Green sapotes (3) grow well, sometimes flower, no fruit.  Lucuma (Silber) has fruited for years.  Cut down by frost years ago, regrown.  We had 17 degrees years ago and many were damaged, none killed, all regrown.  With apparent global warming all are doing well.  Still waIting for fruit on black sapote (Mexico) and green sapote.  Maaaybe this year.

We are in Nipomo (S San Luis Obispo Co) and are members of the central coast CRFG and have many sapotes, macadamias, avocados growing on 1 1/2 acres over the past 50 years.  Freezes have not inhibited our mangro growing(even tho they are now a rare occurance), but the typical low temps during the summer and spring.  I have two small mangos remaining (3 ft tall) that are not protected in the winter, however our 40 degree nights, even in the summer, induce repeated flowering.  Flowering greatly reduces any further growth.  Cutting off flowers results in more flowers, exhausting the plant.  Don't experience this with other tropical or subtropical plants.  Of course, limited heat during the day (78-80) does not help.  Harvested one mango a couple of years ago, picked too soon.  Having been told macadamias etc. would not grow here, I would never say that it is not possible to someone trying mangos. Our 45 macadamias, 52 avocados, and 24 white sapotes, among others, would probably provide incentive for others to try mangos.  I hope to be informed of someone's success.

Best part of the Orton cherimoya is the originator Orton Englehart.  Interesting early member of the CRFG and cause of -hart added to name of many fruits.  Good info on Google.

Sure looks like C. edulis.  The fuzz on a C. tetrameria is very apparent, even so C. edulis "Suebelle" has some fuzz on the leaf underside.  Sometimes called "wooly leaf" sapote due to the very apparent "wool". My mature tetrameria trees on tetrameria rootstock (#6 and #7) are small like a peach tree.  The several mature edulis trees on edulis r/s are giants with corresponding base and height.  One trunk base is over 26 in diameter and 35 ft tall.  That tree has several grafts done years ago.  A Vernon edulis grafted on tetrameria R/S  that is over 20 years old is less than 6 ft tall.  The seeds on tetrameria fruit are roundish and much smaller than edulis (1/3 to 1/2) even on same sized fruit.  Many edulis and tetrameria fruits have a yellowish interior, all tetrameria (here) are yellowish.  Most edulis have white interior (here).  Flavor is distinctively different between the two.  #6 and #7 tetrameria were selected by CA CRFG group as having best flavor.

Kevin, might have been the Lattarula “Italian Honey” Fig.  Next to greenhouse is large tree that is Spangler's Jelly Fig.  Hope you enjoy them and pass them on (saw post that Exotica is closing down)  Both of the above are my favorites, but we are in a cool climate.  Jack

If it is a Suebelle it is a much smaller tree, like a peach tree.  Check for fuzzy leaf undersides.

Brokay Nursery in CA has been using a modified Frolich method since about 1975.  You might Google them and/or contact them.

Just finished last two Hellen avocados for this year, still hanging on tree.

Trees here are densly planted as original 15 ft spacing has diminished due to overplanting.  Cold temps we experienced 20 years ago (low once of 17º-killed many mature eucalyptus trees in area), used return-stack heaters in those early days, covers, etc.  Trees are fully grown now and canopy effect and global warming (recorded evidence for local winter temps) there has been no real damage in past few years.  During the fight against freezing played with many alternatives.  Found temperature, freeze duration, humidity (dry cold nights were the worst) and soil moisture relevant to damage.  Canopy effect keeps humidity high along with soil moisture.  Freeze duration is shortened with higher humidity.  We are in 300 ft of dune sand so never worried about overwatering.  Did burn lot of diesel fuel in heaters in those days.  Plant maturity today makes a difference.  Those were immature plants back then, we are now close to 50 years here on 1 1/2 acres.  Never had C. tetrameira burned except new leaves.  C. edulis have been lost to freeze.  Then again, tree location, humidity, etc. are factors to consider more than temperature.  I have a 10 degree difference from one part of property to another.  Colder areas get citrus, warmer areas hold avocados etc.  If it was easy it wouldn't be fun.

Nice to see your opinion on yellow sapote (Casimiroa tetrameria) # 7 is in agreement with an old CRFG taste test.  CRFG #6 is out there, but most prefer CRFG#7.  I've posted this before, doing it again: using C. tetrameria as a rootstock for C. edulis severely dwarfs the white sapote down to 4 ft. Using C. edulis as a R/S for C. tetrameria makes a much smaller tree, about 8 ft. Both have remained  compatible for over 20 years and produce normal sized fruit.  It would be interesting to see what an interstock of various lengths would do.

Have Triumph and Mammoth (NZ varieties) and they produce well.  Large fruit with good flavor.  Never been hit with frost (over 20 years) down in middle 20's maybe lower.  They groundlayer easily (low branch covered with soil, roots within a year, cut off is new plant).

My two NZ varieties of Feijoa are outstanding in flavor and size compared to Coolidge etc.  They are Mammoth and Triumph and very productive.  Have not had success with cuttings, but ground layering (on ground or in a pot still connected to mother plant) have rooted well.  Ripe now, I prefer to bite off top of fruit and squeeze out fruit insides. Not just a good fruit, frost hardy, and ornamental too.