Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - PltdWorld

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 23
Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: Jabotica fruits
« on: September 26, 2020, 09:48:31 AM »
(Sorry wrong topic)

Strom, if youíre in San Diego Iíll take a couple off your hands.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Jaboticaba Flowering But Not Fruiting
« on: April 12, 2020, 07:36:28 PM »
Simon - are your jabos flowering now?  I posted earlier that mine had flowered but didnt set fruit - all of the flowers have since wilted away.  I'm going to take earlier recommendations of using Hollytone and see if I get better results as it warms up around here.

Thank you both!  Iím hopeful these trees start producing because I love the fruit and the way they look when covered in flowers.  Of the 4 I have in the ground, theyíre all acting differently...

I planted a seedling under a king palm tree and after several years itís still only about a foot tall.  I keep thinking itís dead, but it will push a couple new leaves from time to time.

[no photo]

The one that actually set fruit seems stressed, loses almost all of its leaves over winter and then flushed out new (red) growth.  The tree never really looks green - thereís always some red in the leaves.  And it hasnít grown much taller.

The one in the original post keeps growing.  Iíve hacked off branches bigger than the other tree.

And I planted out an unknown / unlabeled (canít remember the source) seedling that looks completely different than any other jabo Iíve seen... new growth is red but leaves immediately turn a very light green - the plant doesnít look sickly, and it keeps growing.  Bark is also much darker than the others.  Branches are droopy.  Excited to figure out what this one is.

Not sure if itís typical for jabos planted near the coast in SoCal to not set fruit ... I know they fruit inland, but donít know anyone near me growing them.  (Iíve seen them fruiting at a local nursery nearby, but the plants were sourced elsewhere)

Itís been a while since Iíve been on TFF... but #Coronacation has me spending more time in my yard again.

Iíve got a couple jabos in the qround - and in the last couple years Iíve only had ONE fruit!  That was years ago, and that jabo hasnít event flowered since.    Meanwhile, my largest (now over 6í tall) jabo keeps flowering but I have yet to see a single fruit.  Any ideas?

The flowers opened up - I counted about 20 - and have wilted away without fruit set.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Red Hybrid Jaboticaba size?
« on: September 22, 2018, 12:37:57 PM »
Thatís a good looking fruit!  How long from seed, Simon?  Do you have it in ground or in a pot?  Are you treating it with anything to get it to fruit?

(My biggest Jabo is now over 6í tall and has put out 4 flowers total, only one set, and something got to it before it was ripe - just keeps growing taller, doesnít want to go to flower)

I would think others in the Prunus family would work... plums, cherries, peaches, nectarines, apricots, and almonds

Havenít tried it myself.

Success with:

* Citrus (orange)
* Pitanga (Eugenia uniflora)

This spring I tried rooting cuttings from my orange tree, jaboticaba, and Surinam cherry.

5 out of 8 of my cara cara orange cuttings took. I used varying branch diameters from 1/16Ē to 1/2Ē, dipped in Clonex, placed in wet soil, and covered with plastic.  It took approx 3 months to root, and some have pretty extensive root structure.

I also took several pitanga (Surinam cherry) cuttings while pruning some of my seedlings.  4 out of 8 have calloused over and have remained green - it appears they will root out.

None of my jabo cuttings took.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Surniame Cherry from Jim Neitzel
« on: June 13, 2018, 01:07:11 AM »
Looks awesome!

It seems like pitanga is grown in every backyard in Rio... not sure why it isn't more popular in Southern California.  It's an attractive landscape tree, and it creates a fruit that can be eaten out of hand.  Perhaps we've just been waiting for a few decent cultivars to supplant the resinous/common fruit?

Feijoa doesn't need a whole lot of water, and the two established bushes I have produce hundreds of fruit each.  It makes an attractive tree, or can be kept as a shrub.

I have 4 jabos in the ground - from 3 different sources.  All were started in pots, 2 transferred to in-ground as 5gal and the other two as 1gal.

My soil is clay/loam (assumption is that it is slightly alkaline, but hasn't been tested), and my water is very hard (7.55-8.4) coming from the Miramar treatment facility.  I have not amended my soil, and I do not adjust my water for watering.

My two largest jabos were sourced from Florida as 5gal plants a couple of years ago - both were immediately planted in ground, in full sun.  Of those two, one looks somewhat "sickly" (yellow/brown leaves, very little new growth, etc); but the other has added more than 2 feet since planted (now approx 6' tall), is very bushy, continues to flush out growth and flowered earlier this year.  They are planted about 8' apart from each other and receive the same amount of sun and water.

The other two were transferred to in-ground about a year ago.  One was a gifted seedling, and the other I grew from seed.  The one that was gifted to me is planted on the same slope as the two Florida jabos - it receives the same sun (full sun), but less water - it is constantly flushing new growth and is very healthy.

My seedling was planted on the opposite side of the house; it gets shade 1/3-1/2 of the day, and is planted approximately 4' from the trunk of a king palm.  That one has put out very little new growth and most of the existing growth has turned yellow/brown.  It receives daily water on a drip line.

Not sure what conclusions can be drawn from any of this as it is not very scientific - but some jabos are doing very well in my yard without any adjustment to my soil composition or water profile.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: cloning gels
« on: April 19, 2018, 10:15:43 PM »
I haven't tried clonex before. I've been using dip n grow. I figured it has 2 hormones so it's better. I don't really know.

I have used clonex on vegetative growth (i.e. passion fruit), and have had good success with Dip N Grow on ornamental woody plants... not sure why I never tried it on fruit trees, but I bet it would work.  That stuff is NASTY though.  The guy at the hydroponics store said it would "root a toothpick", lol

The cannibis guys have been using clonex for decades - you'd think if it was bad to use on "edibles" (warning label or not) that info would have gotten out by now.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Help me ID this fruit
« on: April 13, 2018, 08:46:08 PM »
Campomanesia lineatifolia?

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Help me ID this fruit
« on: April 13, 2018, 08:39:57 PM »
Hmm... looks like a psdium and description fits Psidium littorale other than (1) number of seeds and (2) time to ripen.

Here are some photos of my lemon guava for s&g:

Temperate Fruit Buy, Sell, & Trade / WTB/WTT Low-Chill apple scions
« on: April 13, 2018, 07:17:41 PM »
I in Clairemont and have a Granny Smith apple on dwarf stock that is very healthy and produces a decent crop every year - but I'm not a huge fan of Granny Smith apples.  I'm looking to graft some other varieties onto this tree - preferably varieties that have done well in San Diego.

I'm happy to pay for scions or trade.

Please send me a PM.



Anyone have sugar apple growing in San Diego and about to prune?  I'm looking for sugar apple scions - my seedling cherimoya is waking up right now and I want to take advantage and graft onto it.

Any sugar apple sticks would be great.

Please PM me.  Thanks in advance,


Cool!  I hope they make some roots for you!

What a great yard!

With that many avocado trees, it might be tempting to spread them throughout the yard.  Otherwise, I personally favor grouping similar fruits together (i.e. citrus is one section, annonas in another).  I am on a slope and I have my apricot and plumcots at the top of the hill - I get a great view half the year when they don't have leaves, but can't see anything when they fill in with leaves.

Personally, I like Mangos as specimen trees, avocados at the perimeter, grapes on trellises with the fruit hanging down, passion fruit on chainlink fence (i.e. set up a 4'-5' tall chain link fence to separate a portion of your yard - it's evergreen, attracts bees, and makes great fruit - but you can keep it tamed in this way) - and then sections for your figs, stone fruit, annonas, etc.

Share photos when the planting begins - you've got a fruit paradise on your hands!

I want to try root in but with an airstone. I have read accounts of even cut roses being rooted like this without any hormone(they hardly ever root in water) I think the air is what makes it so successful. I saw this trick initially from cannabis cultivators ha ha

My plan is to get a small fish tank with two airstones running in the bottom then make a lid that can hold the cuttings upright in the water.

How thick branches do you think? I also want to try with pitangatuba as I only have one plant and that is scary.

I built an aeroponics system (cut end hangs down into the air in a sealed container and warm water is misted onto the cut end for short periods of time at short intervals)... I had a high success rate with vegetative and woody cuttings from several landscape shrubs and perennials that I wanted lots of... Similar to this:

There are a bunch of commercially available "cloning machines" based on aeroponics, but I built mine using a Home Depot HDX storage box, plastic pots and foam cells from a hydroponics store, an aquarium pump and heater, 1/2" pvc pipe for the misting matrix, and misting heads from amazon.  The most expensive part was the short interval timer - I could set it to 30 second misting every 5 minutes (or so):

Might be time to resurrect it to see how it does with pitanga and others.

I agree Mark , but my project for the last ...15 years ...was ( that's it more...I am getting too old ) improving blacks and reds to end up with the best that come true from seed and zero astringency , I ended up with about 4 .

Luc, that sounds like a very interesting and worthwhile project!

If you get impatient with seed germination be prepared for the same with rooted cuttings.
I rooted about a half dozen cuttings last year. They rooted easily... but took about 3 months.
Root-tone into Pro-mix than bagged and placed in the shady area of my greenhouse.


Good to know they root easily.  What was the max stick caliper you tried/were successful rooting?  I trimmed some smaller branches - have sticks ranging from 1/16 of an inch to appro 2/3" - it would seem the bigger the cutting, the faster the growth once rooted?

Grafted ones produce pretty quick. I've got them in one gallons with fruit.

Thanks Mark - I'll have to come see you.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Rooting Eugenia Uniflora (Surinam cherry)
« on: March 11, 2018, 07:28:15 PM »
Do cuttings of Surinam Cherry root easily?

I've grown a bunch of Pitanga from seed - but it takes forever... and I haven't found a whole lot of info about rooting cuttings.  Has anyone here done it?  Is is faster than seeds or air layers?  What is the best method?  (Highest success rate, fastest to root and fruit)?

I'm trying a test in both soil and water.  I built a cloning kit several years ago (air pots, misters on short interval timer, lighting, etc) that has worked for a number of plants - but it's down right now.  If cuttings work for Eugenia uniflora, I may set it back up again... I've decided I really like this tree in the landscape.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Surinam cherry leaves turning red.
« on: March 09, 2018, 04:25:07 PM »
Nice area, I always look at those houses along thet 52 and think how nice it looks up on that hill.  Is your yard looking north or south?

I wasn't trying to tell you your zone was incorrect or anything, I just find it interesting how everyone has different weather that doesnt always go according to the zones.  I think the zone systems are not that accurate in san diego because of all the hills and valleys.  The zone map itself it pretty interesting to look at also.

Our back yard is somewhat of a "bowl" that faces North/Northwest.

I agree the USDA map doesn't take into consideration the micro-micro-climates... 92109 is lower lying and is listed as 10b but 92037 which has both hills and low-lying coast is listed as 10a.  In 92117, we had two hail storms over the course of the last 10 years and got frost this year and last.  Based on that, I updated my profile to 10a which is what the current USDA map says as well.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 23
SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk