The Tropical Fruit Forum
Tropical Fruit => Tropical Fruit Discussion => Topic started by: BenjaminJohnson on June 04, 2022, 02:32:55 AM
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I've recently grafted two red ilama scions on cherimoya and have managed to get two Genova red Ilama seeds to sprout in my greenhouse. They all get blistery spots that resemble cold sores that turn brown and eventually consume the entire leaf in time. I have many other varieties of annona in the same greenhouse, including rollinia, soursop, cherimoya, atemoya, cherilata, custard apple, etc. and none of them have issues. I also have many other plants of unrelated species, and none of them have had these issues either. I've included some photos. Does anyone have experience with this problem or know what the issue is?
(https://i.postimg.cc/ygQ6gdDF/PXL-20220603-183936501.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ygQ6gdDF)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tnsqhj68/PXL-20220603-183943106-MP.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tnsqhj68)
(https://i.postimg.cc/MXHpkyLt/PXL-20220603-184029032.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MXHpkyLt)
(https://i.postimg.cc/BLk9f18w/PXL-20220603-184007182-MP.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BLk9f18w)
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Does the State of Washington has Extension Plant Clinics like we do in Florida.? Definitely worth finding out out what it is
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I’ve had those issues with my seedlings and Ilama grafts on cherimoya. It’s either intumescence or edema or a mixture. It’s a physiological response and not one caused by disease or nutrient deficiencies. Unfortunately there isn’t any definitive solutions to the problem and there are still studies to find out what causes it for other plants such as in some cultivars of tomatoes and sweet potato. In my experience I’ve had happen mostly on cloudy, gloomy and rainy weather. Edema and intumescence are different by the way but because they look similar they are sometimes used interchangeably. Intumescence is light quality specifically lack of enough ultraviolet light while edema is related to too much water uptake through the roots and the leaves aren’t able to output it fast enough and results in the blisters, high humidity and low temperatures may tie in as well. Grow lights with just the visible light spectrum do not help btw. Currently I’m testing one in a fabric pot to see if it a problem with the water uptake, but i see one spot so far on that seedling but no leaf loss as of yet. I may test it with pondapple rootstock and see if that solves it. If it doesn’t, then I may consider it a lost cause since if it is light quality then that is beyond my control. Sad because I do enjoy eating the fruit in my families country and really wanted to grow it in Texas.
Just want to add that oddly enough, it only occurs during the development of the leaf, not before when you have a tiny leaf bud, and not after the leaf has fully grown and hardened. And I manage to get those leaves to harden off when there is no overcast and rainy, or chilly weather.
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That's some really great information. Thanks for sharing. We've been having an unusually cool, overcast, and rainy spring this year, so it makes complete sense. If it was a pathogen, I would think it would be spread to other plants. The fact that my seedlings and grafted plants are in different areas of the greenhouse and not close to each other, yet experiencing the same problem was making me wonder if it was more of an issue with the specific species of plant itself, by trying to grow it in conditions it doesn't prefer.
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No problem! The species is from a region where it receives many days of sunny clear skies and is drought tolerant to some extent. So it makes sense that unlike most plants, ultraviolet light may be a requirement for its every day function. If possible the plant may benefit being outdoors, semi shaded if need be considering the integrity of the grafts and seedlings. Even under partial sun it will receive more exposure to uv light then in the greenhouse, especially if the glass or polycarbonate has been treated with Uv protectant before purchase. Anyways, like like I said, we can’t control the weather so really hoping it’s more of the water uptake option since that is easily controlable through a more well draining soil or fabric pots. Good luck!
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In my greenhouse, My ilama has same Symptom occured. I am also growing other annona species in the same green house. But others does not have same symptom. So this symptom not spread others. Only occured at Illama. And only green house or in the room. In the Out door, growing well. The same phenomenon occurs even if you leave it in your room for just a day or two. and Old tree has little symptom.
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I had been asked about those pictures earlier, and I was stumped.
Thank you, Fleep!
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@Faldon, You are correct, intumescence and edema are reported to happen mostly in the greenhouse and indoor growing environments which makes it challenging for those who try to grow or overwinter ilamas in pots or containers. I find it interesting that you mention that an older tree shows less issues with this. I wonder why that is and if it’s true for most older ilamas in containers.
@Guanabanus, no problem, Glad I could share what I’ve learned from my own experiences with this wonderful and tasty anonna species!
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Dear Fleep
Here is pic of my seedling ilama. Maybe 6 years tree. Growing in the small green house.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9RcWvMWh/20220605-135002.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9RcWvMWh)
(https://i.postimg.cc/GHT1gYkD/20220605-134958-HDR.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GHT1gYkD)
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Thanks for sharing pictures of your tree! I notice that there is a flower bud. Does it affect the flowers in any way? How about fruit production? Any that abort early or show the same up the same like the leaves?
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I have about 7 different illamas, they all hate excessive irrigation, multiple rainy days is ok, but something about being kept wet with my tap water. So in our dry season, I let the pot get nearly bone dry before I water.