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Messages - elouicious

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the mystery deepens....


your greenhouse is coming into pretty good production brian, I feel like I am seeing a new fruit pic every few weeks

Hey Boss!

in for the holidays- we should link up!

Hey all-

In my recent strolls I have found some Quercus macrocarpa trees and acorns are plentiful right now, 

Im definitely going to plant a few of these on my properties, they seem like a good staple food and the season is right after pecans (at least in Texas) which gives another good nut to forage into the fall

Seed - cooked. The light brown or grayish, ovoid-ellipsoid or oblong seed can be 15 - 50mm long and 10 - 40mm wide. The seed can be ground into a powder and used in making bread, dumplings etc and as a thickener in soups. The seed of this species is considered to be one of the most palatable of all the oaks. Many trees have sweet seeds with little tannin and the seed can be eaten raw or cooked.
In some species, especially many of those classified as 'white oaks', the seeds are low in tannins and have a more or less sweet and agreeable flavour. The seed of most species, however, have a very bitter flavour, due especially to the presence of tannins. In these species there are various processes that can remove or at least reduce the amount of these bitter substances (although other water-soluble substances, including some minerals, will also be removed).
Tannins are water-soluble and therefore the easiest way to remove or reduce tannin levels is by soaking in water. A few different methods are listed:-
A traditional method of preparing the seed was to bury it in boggy ground overwinter and allow the wet soil to gradually leach the tannins. The germinating seed was dug up in the spring when it would have lost most of its astringency and bitterness.
Another method was to wrap the seeds in a cloth bag and place them in a stream for several weeks.
Drying the seed and grinding it to a powder before soaking speeds up the process. The fastest method is to use hot water, by cooking the powder and changing the water several times until the cooking water is no longer bitter. Alternatively, you can use cold water (which is reported to produce the best quality flour). In this case, you soak the powdered seed in cold water for 12 - 24 hours then discard the water. Repeat this process for a number of times until the soak water is no longer bitter.

$10 for 4 acorns plus shipping, I'll float test them before I ship them to make sure they are viable also-

Here is a pic next to some "regular" acorns

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Starting a farm in Southern California
« on: November 17, 2023, 06:06:41 PM »

Your level of work on both the orchard and the farm are stunning!

Please keep posting pics!

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: New USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Update?
« on: November 15, 2023, 08:38:28 AM »
Houston moves to 9b despite two 8b storms

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Zanthoxylum
« on: November 13, 2023, 10:50:59 AM »
Interesting but-

do you eat anything off of these? a quick google suggests some medicinal applications but always interested in more hardy edibles

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Anyone growing Uvaria Ruffa
« on: November 11, 2023, 02:06:45 PM »
can you post a pic?

mine has been a relatively easy to care for plant, pretty cold hardy and seems to thrive on neglect

My first guess would be overwatering as with most things

they also are very slow growers for me

my specimen

maybe I was a bit underexaggerating about 6"

I got mine from a person in Sept of 2020-

They might have been free- out of 20 fresh seeds I have 1 plant

Garcinia are one of the most challenging container plants-

Many people on here have reported growth rates of 2 leaves per 6 months-year

For those dedicated to trying this- consider grafting to circumvent the insane juvenile period and get some fruit sooner rather than later

Paging behl

Well here was a surprise I was not expecting while walking around the yard-

Garcinia livingstonei-

Pouteria campechiana-

worth noting that both of these are in ground, in old woodchip mulched beds that I inoculated with mycelium

I hope this works. My cross eugenia grafting tests did not prove fruitful :(

Worried about long term rejection as well-

Bush2Beach's pungens is fruiting so maybe a chance to try some fruit before it gets rejected if nothing else


It seems to a be a bulletproof little bush over here as well, A little damage at 18f but bounced back and fruited this year-

Unfortunately I still have yet to try either fruit but if they are good I will get some more

Guineense sizing up, first fruiting for me

"Skittles" on Guajava is totally compatible, bummer on no fruit for hybrid seeds!

Cas guava came back from the dead, I will protect it this year. It was under snow last year and almost died...

Fern leaf is SUCH a stunner! It really started to speed up finally.

My latest guava pick-ups from Giant Gecko are looking good, I have pretty good confidence most of these will survive.

Orange flesh guajava loading up HARD. I am not thinning as I want small fruits that ripen sooner.

Skittles guava loaded

Fern leaf, minor leaf, and grandifolium all looking good in full sun

that fern leaf is gorgeous

Hey all-

I checked for previous posts on this and only found one asking about the compatibility here-

I recently grafted a few sticks from Bush2Beach onto a mature M. fragrans bush I have here and I am happy to report one of the scions is pushing-

We will see about long term compatibility but a good start!

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Yangmei Ice Cream
« on: November 08, 2023, 09:50:44 PM »
Made some yangmei ice cream with some frozen fruit this past weekend and had it with the wife-

I really really liked it-

Hope to be getting some crops in texas in a few years, these were unnamed fruit


If you want fruit production, I would try to keep it in as small a pot as possible, guavaja tends to need a larger pot but there are plenty of other Psidium spp. that can fruit in even a 3 gallon pot.

Now my guava went into the ground two+ years ago and grew lushly to ten feet tall. But even with good watering and fertilizing it never bloomed or set any fruit.

Then it got pruned to six feet last year in June and grew back again but didn't flower or fruit.

Again this year in June it had grown back to about eight feet tall but no blooms. (This year it did not get fertilized like last year, but got plenty of water.)  And it got purned in July back to six feet once more but has grown another foot since then.

Not sure why this guava is reluctant to bloom.  It's a Barbie Supreme hybrid.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Fingers X-ed!

Paul M.

Is it a seedling? I've heard of great success whacking tree trunks with an old broom handle at night-

Why at night?

So your neighbors dont think youve lost your mind when they see you walking around whacking trees  ;D

I went from a 3 Gallon to a 15 this year and it exploded in growth, how many seasons should I wait before going up? I ask because I grew Cantaloupe this year and it took over the drip pan with roots a couple weeks into the growing season. Same with my Passion Fruit, it was in a 3 gallon to a 15 and took less than two or three weeks before the roots were in the drip pan.

Should I up pot my Guava and Passion Fruit if I want as heavy production as possible prior to next spring, or let them establish themselves even longer in the same pot?

Passion fruit and guava are going to be pretty different being a vine and a tree-

In general though, plants will try to grow roots first while they can- this doesnt mean no growth up top but plants tend to focus on roots first.

Once the roots in the pot are full the majority of growth will go into the top/fruit. but for most species you also begin the death of  the plant through root girdling but this is a slow process (years)

If you want fruit production, I would try to keep it in as small a pot as possible, guavaja tends to need a larger pot but there are plenty of other Psidium spp. that can fruit in even a 3 gallon pot.

If you want a long term tree with smaller fruit production in the initial years but a longer living and healthier tree in the long run, up-pot once the roots "hit the drip pan" until you get to your final size (I find 25-50g pots good) and then just let them be

It sounds like it seems pointless to try and fruit jackfruit in a container. Itís too bad, itís such a nice looking tree. I guess itís next on the chopping block next time I need space.

Lots of people have mused on this, myself included

As much as I would love to have some of the better Jack varieties or some of the more rare Artocarpus this is one genus that I feel is really problematic for container culture- Long taproots, large heights before fruiting, extreme temperature sensitivity, lack of adaptation to pruning etc.

Even assuming you could get one to fruit in a container I would be massively concerned about the tree falling over with fruit on it,

Combine this with the fact that the (admittedly inferior) varieties are available from most asian grocery markets these days and most people decide these are not for them

I believe a 100g pot is recommended for even the dwarf varieties of Jackfruit

ever bloomed or fruited?

Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: Free Yangmei Giveaway
« on: November 06, 2023, 08:37:47 PM »

Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: Selling Myrciaria glazioviana plant
« on: November 06, 2023, 06:22:01 PM »

Reputable seller, order with confidence

2 Packs left-

My Psidium striatulums flowered and fruited this summer for the first time. I probably could have induced fruiting earlier, but I tend not to be as diligent in up-potting plants as I should be. Still, fruiting at three years of age is not too bad considering the shorter growing season I have in north Alabama than in south Florida or their native Brazil. Also, they do not live outside year-round; they only spend Summer (and parts of Spring and Fall) outside since my winter temperatures would certainly kill them.

Their fruits have taken a little while to develop. The above photographs were taken in late August. The fruits had started forming in July. The fruit in the first photograph fully ripened yesterday. The rest are getting close. They spent quite a while small, green, and rock-hard. All told, it was between three to four months from flowering to fruit.

My first fruit was 2.5" long. It did not develop a rich yellow color like some other ripe striatulum fruits I have seen photos of. I think this can be ascribed to the relatively cool late summer and early fall temperatures in my area; I have already had to move my plants indoors, two weeks earlier than usual. Still, the fruit had softened, developed a nice scent, and came right off the plant, so it was ripe. It's flesh did not develop the bright red coloration of nana7b's fruits; it looked like the fruits in Miguel's photos at the beginning of this topic, a nice pink color.

The taste was that of a good guava. It was sweet, though not overtly so. It had very little sourness. There was no bitterness or off-notes or strange aftertaste. The seeds, though still hard, were smaller than in commercial guavas (Psidium guajava) and did not seem to have guava's teeth-breaking quality.

I am quite happy with striatulum fruit and the plant itself. Considering that the fruit of most plants improves with age, I think I will be even happier with them in, say, five years. The plant is also more manageable as a container plant than guajava. My Columbian Red Guava of the same age has not only not produced any fruit, despite being in a much larger pot than my striatulums, but it also requires regular pruning to keep it a manageable size. The only pruning I have done with my two striatulums was on a few branches to give them a better shape. They are much better behaved container plants. Certainly ones that will stay in my collection permanently.

I literally saw this post and thought W. is growing those haha-

Nice write-up! hoping for some fruit on the one here soon

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