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Messages - Till

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1
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Use Morton for hardy, good-tasting crosses
« on: June 06, 2025, 06:26:37 PM »
The leaf form can be interesting. I have some hybrids of Chandler x (African Shadock x Poncirus). Most of them are well growing, some more Ponciruslike most more Citruslike. Most seedlings became monofiliate very soon although they started with trifoliate leaves. Then most seedlings have long and narrow leaves. If I did not know better I would have guessed that I have hybrids with Ichang Papeda before me. My guess is though that the narrow leaves come from African Shadock x Poncirus. When Chandler x Morton has the same feature I will revise my guess.

2
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Use Morton for hardy, good-tasting crosses
« on: June 06, 2025, 07:38:40 AM »
You had great luck, Ilya!

3
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Use Morton for hardy, good-tasting crosses
« on: June 05, 2025, 05:47:02 PM »
It was a complex mutation then, was it?

4
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Use Morton for hardy, good-tasting crosses
« on: June 05, 2025, 04:16:22 PM »
Lauta-hibrid, to which of my comments do you refer? I did not want to claim that a zygotic Morton exists.
What regards standart Morton, I have read that it is seedless when self-pollinated and has nucellar seeds when cross pollinated. I have not made tests myself but had seedless fruits and fruits with nucellar seeds but none with zygotic seeds, not even from cross polinated flowers. My Morton hybrids are from Morton as pollen parent.

When you refer to "Morton nucellar" then I can only say that I do not know how many zygotic seeds it has. Ilya believes it is a mutation of standart Morton because it is so similar. I myself have no clear opinion but wonder why it is hardier AND has different taste when it is only a mutation.

Starton is a cross between Swingle 5 Star and Morton, created by Ilya. See Ilya's link above.

I havested the last Chandler fruit from the hybridizing attempt Chandler x Morton today. Only three seeds. That means the crossing experiment Chandler x Morton resulted in two fruits, one seedless the other containing only three seeds. That is a very poor output for a zygotic mother plant.


5
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Use Morton for hardy, good-tasting crosses
« on: June 04, 2025, 05:55:15 AM »
Very convincing picture. I regred that I did not more with my Keraji this year. It had perhaps hundreds of flowers and I pollinated only a few. There is at least hope that the bees crossed it with African Shadock x Poncirus and with Yuzu.

Next year will be a Keraji year!

6
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Use Morton for hardy, good-tasting crosses
« on: June 03, 2025, 06:14:15 PM »
Thank you, Boris, for sharing your experience! That is very good news. I did not know that Keraji is self-incompartible. But it explains why I had so few seeds in the past when I did not pollinate it.

7
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Use Morton for hardy, good-tasting crosses
« on: June 02, 2025, 02:54:01 AM »
My impression is that the amount of pollen that Morton produces is dependant on the temperature. The first blossoms in the year have little pollen the last flowers a lot.

I have pollinated a citrumelo (mislabeled thus variety unknown) with Morton. The citrumelo has around 50% zygotic seeds, is very aromatic, good brix but is as it is not edible. The few seedlings from the cross with Morton were more than 50% zygotic and all well growing. I pollinated Chandler with Morton. One fruit was seedless the other is not big and probable also with few seeds as the cross Chandler x C35 was also low seeded. According to my experience Chandler is a pure mother plant. It dislikes pollen other than pumelo pollen (or African Shadock x Poncirus pollen). It also dislikes citrumelo pollen.

I have tried Poncirus x Morton. The seedlings look different but I have no clue whether they are hybrids or not. I have one seedling Ichang Papeda x Morton. It has serious root problems and grows slowly. I grafted it onto Poncirus a few weeks ago.

This year I tried Staraji x Morton. Staraji has good fruit quality but is way too late ripening and also late blooming. I could imagine that hybrids with Morton are eariler blooming when the Poncirus part induces the formation of winter flower buds so that the fruits also ripen earlier. Staraji is self-imcompartible with its own pollen and Morton is seedless when self-polinated. I hope that crosses between Staraji and Morton are also self-incompartible and thus potentially seedless. (I dislike generatively crippled plants that cannot build seeds but like plants that are seedless because of self-incompartibility.)

I would also recommend Changsha x Morton. I did not try it but Changsha x Dunstan Citrumelo and Changsha x Poncirus is easy.

I do not know how suitable Keraji is as mother plant (I had technical problems until recently that made tests difficult.) But it is interesting that Staraji is self-incompartible and zygotic. That means that Keraji is heterozygous for nucellar embryony and perhaps adds recessive genes for the expression of self-incompartibility. In addition, it is the only one of Ilyas hybrids up to now that is sweet. I might therefore be that Keraji passes off sweetness in a better way than other varieties. In my view, hybrids with Keraji are quite interesting for these reasons and also for the peppery peel of Keraji. The peppery peel is to a weaker degree also present in Staraji. (Other varieties: Ichang Papeda, Yuzu, according to literature C. wilsonii).

My Sandford Curafora did not give good fruits for some years because it has not enough sunlight. But the very first seeds were zygotic. So it may also be a good choice as a mother plant for crosses with Morton. Sandford Curafora is late blooming and late ripening. But its fruit grow fast. Hybrids with Morton may produce winter flower buds and have early ripening fruits.

Somebody that wants to cross Morton with Satsuma may also consider crossing it with Kijomi (Satsuma x Sweet Orange). Kijomi is said to be as hardy as Satsuma but it has zygotic seeds. It is also pollen sterile like Satsuma and able of parthenocarpy. Usirius, I have Kijomi. Ask me if you want it.

Is everybody aware of Ilya´s so called "Morton Nucellar"? I did not have fruits so far but from what I have read it is hardier than Morton and has fruits that taste like multi-vitamin juice.

My Starton24 blooms abundantly, is more or less deciduous and probable hardy even under my conditions. Fruits are very small but taste is really good (like sweet orange but sour). A great disadvantage is that it does not produce pollen under my growing conditions. It stands in a green house but I could only obtain pollen once in three years from some late flowers that opened when both nights and days were warm. Seedlings of Starton24 are mainly nucellar. But I got around 20% zygotes. (Pollen donor unknown: A mix of all pollen that I had at that time.) Starton24 tends to yellow leaves in spring, interestingly more on Poncirus than on its own roots while the Poncirus rootstock has green leaves. It is in my view a very interesting hybrid but somewhat genetically unbalanced. I hesitate to recommend it for breeding. Result of own crosses with Staraji and Valentine not before next year.

The so called PT #7 (hybrid 7) is a new Ponciruslike very hardy hybrid with many zygotic seeds and fruits like Poncirus that are less resinuous and less sour than Poncirus. Not great quality fruits but one of its offspring, hybrid #8, has Ponciruslike fruits without any off-flavours and sticky oils. My guess is that PT #7 x Morton can result is extremly hardy hybrids with all desireable fruit qualities. I would prefer, however, if I were you, Usirius, US899 Q/O. It also has zygotic seeds, is very hardy, has a nice mandarine taste and has less sticky substance and less sourness than Poncirus thus indicating that it is most likely heterozygous for both sweetness and sticky oils. So it has all that PT #7 has but has in addition a mandarine taste.

8
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Breeding a blood yuzu
« on: June 02, 2025, 01:17:04 AM »
The ruby gene of blood oranges is activated under cold stress (warm days and cold nights). It could also be that Poncirus hybrids never suffer such a degree of cold stress that leads to blood coloration. If so the combination of hardiness and blood coloration is problematic.

The ruby gene in blood oranges is  - as far as I understand - activated by a mutation and otherwise inactive. The coloration of the fruits is so to say a dysfunction based on a mutation. The original function of the ruby gene seems to be protection from sunlight in leaves and shots. Kumquat and Sweet Oranges have defective ruby genes. Poncirus, Fingerlime and Ichang Papeda (among others) have two copies of functional ruby genes.

It seems to me that we should not only focus on the ruby gene in blood oranges the activation of which is linked to cold stress. We should, I think, also focus on the red coloration of Fingerlimes that seems not to be linked with cold stress. I have already made crosses between Red Fingerlime and Ichang Papeda (Fingerlime x Ichang Papeda). The combination Fingerlime x Citrumelo seems to be impossible. I had no fruit set. But it could be that the reverse combination is possible. My seedlings of Red Fingerlime (from Agrumi Lenzi) have different red coloration of their young twigs from dark coloration to none at all.  So the Red Fingerlime of Agrumi Lenzi seems to be heterozygous. The Hybrids with Ichang papeda have weaker coloration of young shots as far as I see.

When the existing citranges with Ruby Orange as one elder contain the Ruby gene of Ruby Orange - which is likely for 50% of them - then it can be that crosses between these citranges and other Citrus result in offspring with red coloration. But we need luck. I would not head for such results because they are too improbable but perhaps those who hybridize these citranges will by chance come up with some nice result. That is my hope.
I have crosses Staraji with Morton, Citrumelo with Morton and C35, C35 with US899 Q/O (Usirius). I have polinated Yuzu with Valentine and Valentine with various Poncirus hybrids and Yuzu. Yuzu x Staraji led to hybrids so hopefully also Yuzu x Valentine.

9
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Fukushu X PT seed
« on: May 03, 2025, 11:26:14 AM »
I would not be too excited at the moment. It happens from time to time that seedlings have abnormal leaves, sometimes what you have sometimes three first leaves. It becomes exciting when the next leaves are also weird.

10
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Spidermites!
« on: April 27, 2025, 05:23:28 AM »
Boris,
they give the Latin name here: https://insanehabitats.at/product/tyron-raubmilbe-gegen-milben-auf-weinreben-obstgehoelzen-1-pack-10-streifen-a-30-50-stk/ It is Typhlodromus pyri. You find a lot of pictures with google which are better than any description. Yes, I think "Typon" is some kind of marketing name or popular name.


11
I ate many sour oranges in Sizily. Bitter inside and definitely not like Lemons. Often not much juice. Yet an interesting aroma of its own.
It is commonly held that sour oranges are crosses between a mandarin and pumelo and that lemon is a cross of sour orange (female) and zitron (male). The typical lemon aroma comes from the zitron and perhaps also from the pumelo part of sour oranges. All that is so say that lemons are highly heterozygous. I unfortunatelly haven't experience with citremons but it is very improbable that all Citremons taste similar. Even pure poncirus has from type to type great differences in taste. Poncirus hybrids in general are a wide field from absolutely horrible taste to pretty good taste.

The starting point of our discussion was if somebody has experience with a specific citremon that seems to be extraordinary good. We should take care that we mention the specific citremon we refer to in our taste reviews.

What regards breeding new stuff crosses with kumquat hybrids or yuzu may also be a good idea. I have already crossed limequat with yuzu. Citrumelo crossed with Yuzu exists already. There are some ways to approach the typical lemon taste in combination with hardiness. Sour oranges would not be my favourites as they are not very hardy in my climate and are extremly susceptable to root rod as potted plants. I had to through away all because I did not want to root them all anew after each winter.

12
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Spidermites!
« on: April 26, 2025, 03:04:22 AM »
I had them from Austria. From here: https://insanehabitats.at/product/tyron-raubmilbe-gegen-milben-auf-weinreben-obstgehoelzen-1-pack-10-streifen-a-30-50-stk/
They cost only 18 Euro now but are still sold only in winter. There are other firms that sell them in Europe but they are by far not as common as other predator mites. Some firms only sell to institutions or other firms. I had to google a while and found about five sellers in Europe. Not many.
I could imagine that you can order them from Europe when you live in the US, except the genius at the head of the goverment happen to be inclined to prefer hidden greatnesses of the American fauna for selling.

When nothing help we could try an experiment the next winter. They sell the mites in a dormant state hidden in pieces of felt. The mites naturally hide in bark or such things during winter. I could hang some extra pieces of cloth in my greenhoues before winter and send you some. It is only an experiment. I suppose that I do not have many mites as I do not see their prey. (There will be little rests of spider mites but unvisible. Last autumn I saw some on one plant but they are gone again.)

Or I could oder for you and send the mites to the US. They should survive that when they are dormant.

13
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Spidermites!
« on: April 25, 2025, 04:11:21 AM »
I had very great problems with spidermites years ago. I could kill them with a soap solution but as they were in my two greenhouses that was too much work and never complete. I bought predator mites (native in Califormia) but they were to temperature sensitive. I live in zone 7 and my greenhouses are quite cool during winter.

I finially bought native predator mites called "Tyron" mites. They are used in wineyards and fruit plantages in zentral Europe. These mites killed all the spidermites. I got rid of all from January till summer and they never came again as these Tyron mites overwinter in the cold. I bought them in 2021 and have never again had problem with spider mites. From time to time I see a Tyron mite on a leaf. So they are still there. I cannot recommened Tyron enough. It is, however, not so easy to buy them. They sell only big packages for about 70 Euro and deliver only in January. But it is really worth buying them when you have a greenhouse. They tolerate cold, even strong frost. They tolerate dry air and moist air. And they are very effective. And I think the prize is ok when I recall what I had spend for soap solution over the years and for predator mites that are not climate resistant.

14
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: First fruits of Citrangeremo
« on: April 20, 2025, 11:50:24 AM »
Nothing special. And bark was green. The trunk had only a many year old half-healed wound. But that cannot be the reason for the decline of the tree.

Sadly to say: I had a similar loss in a different greenhouse. A huge Calamondin tree suddently did not grow, got more flowers than usually turned yellow and died. It was grafted on Flying Dragon. In the same greenhouse as Citrangeremo was a well growing small Sudachi tree on Poncirus. The same picture as Citrangeremo: First flowers after the winter but no growth, then yellow leaves and dead. I could save Calamondin and Sudachi on Poncirus and C35, respectively. I Poncirus big Poncirus tree (Nikita and something similar) also declined but the reason is clear: Some kind of mildow in the bark at about 30cm above ground. The roots are still healthy. All that happened during winter.

I think there is something in the earth or in the air (obvious in winter mildow) but not a mouse. I would have observed that. The desease cannot be very infective as trees right besides the deceased ones still prosper.

I take it as fate or God's will. My space is very limited because I cannot cultivate Citrus plants unprotected inground and I produce new hybrids every year that will soon need space. I made a number of Calamondin hybrids. So it is ok that the Calamondin project is closed for some years. I realized that I do not necessarily need Sudachi for the next years. So it is ok, especially because the huge HRS899a bush right besides it needs more space to come to flowering size. I was very keen on Citrangeremo but realized at the end that it does not offer much to my breeding goals. So it is ok that it makes space for Poncirus seedlings that I once got through the forum and that should get very good fruits. I have plenty of seedlings of Nikita, supposedly many hybrids (Cicitranges). So it is ok that Nikita makes a pause for some years, especially because I need space for better Poncirus varieties (Poncirus+, PT #7 and others) and by now switched my hybridizing plans to Poncirus Till #1 which is better than Nikita. In a few year, my smaller Nikita trees will begin to flower, probably early enough for the next plans.

In earlier days I was very frustrated by any loss. But now that my collection contains better and better varieties (thanks to many kindly giving forum members) I begin not only to be happy for any fresh good growth but also for some losses. Yet, I still cannot totally give up a variety. It's a weakness perhaps of my character or perhaps wise as I do not yet know what I will need in the future. I cannot really kill a tree. So it is perhaps good that God does the brutal job as I really need space.

15
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: First fruits of Citrangeremo
« on: April 19, 2025, 10:43:16 AM »
The Citrangeremo was grafted on Swingle Citrumelo which in principle does well on my somewhat loamy garden soil. It can be that the air was too moist during winter and some fungus entered the roots.
I have no own experience with the resistance of Citrangeremo roots. I have only read that all Australian species were imune to phytophthora. If that is true Citrangeremo is likely to be quite resistant against root rod when grown on its own roots. I can only tell that Fingerlime seedlings and also their hybrids with Ichang Papeda do well on their own roots. But Fingerlime is not E. glauca and both are not Citrangeremo.

16
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: First fruits of Citrangeremo
« on: April 18, 2025, 06:02:17 PM »
The remains of my Citrangeremo:





Saidly to say: My Citrangeremo had indeed some kind of root problem and died this year with the beginning of the first hot days. No growth, leaves were more yellow than last year and dried up very soon. I assume that some kind of fungus was the reason. But I did not see infections in the trunk.

What does that mean for my fruit evalution? Hmm, I am not sure. We have to recogn with the case that fruits would have been better when the plant had been more healthy. It may also have happened that it had produced viable pollen and seeds when it had been more healthy. Yet, I have doubts what regards the latter possibility. I have a big Swamp Lemon tree in the same greenhouse that got a cerious fungus (mildew) infection with similar symptoms as the Citrangeremo. But it produced a normal amount of pollen and even viable seeds. The Swamp Lemon tree is not totally dead. It has new growth from lower parts. So the cases are not idential, only similar. Nonetheless it has to be questioned that the Citrangeremo would have been more fruitful with healthy roots because it got absolutely zero pollen and despite the many fruits only one highly polyembryonic seed that was not fully developed. That seems to be genetically determined. And I mean it was alive enough last year that it could grow a bit (not much) and bring the fruits to maturity.

I asked myself another question: Would the Citrangeremo ever have bloomed when it had remained healthy? I think no. I waited over ten year for blossoms and nothing happened. It only bloomed when it was ceriously ill and felt that it was to die. It seems to be really slow to bloom or blooms only as a huge tree.
I do not want to frustate those who want to grow it. Maybe the late fruiting is not that great a problem when somebody lives in a hot climate. I am optimistic that Citrangeremo will soon form a huge tree there as it is a fast growing plant.

I hope that I could save the variety. I made cuttings last year. The cutting did not root but did not suffer either. I made some grafts from these onto Poncirus. I think one at least should take. I have usually a very high rate of takes.

17
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: An unusual seedling
« on: March 09, 2025, 06:11:14 PM »
Let's wait. I had seedlings that lost the central bud. It took a very very long time until it the top of the stem burst and a new bud appeared.

18
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Tetraploid Satsuma
« on: February 06, 2025, 03:26:54 AM »
I also did my best yesterday to search for the right percentage of colchicin in the internet. There is not much information around and the amount of colchicin used varies from experiment to experiment and from species to species. But the amount in the bulb of Cholchicum autumnale seems to be sufficient to double the chromosome number.
I want to try the juice of Cholchicum in spring, not on Citrus but on growing buds of two Sorbus hybrids. I hope that I will have time enough and be successful. If so I am going to post it here.

19
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Tetraploid Satsuma
« on: February 04, 2025, 08:41:19 AM »
What concentration of cholchizin is needed for doubling the chromosome number? Is it perhaps possible to just use the juice of cholchicum autumnale? It should contain up to 0,2% in the bulb, 0,03% in the leaves, 1,8% in the flowers according to wikipedia.

20
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: The R.E.S. Method - Fruit From Seed in 1-2 Years
« on: January 27, 2025, 06:23:18 PM »
Roses are a good example against my observation. But I think only seemlingly. There is the tendency in Roses to produce short fruiting wood. I am not an expert for Roses but I think the wild Roses first produce a long flowerless shot and then have flowers on short side shots in the following year. Cultivated forms can be different in that the differentiation between long twigs responsible for growths in lenght and short twigs responsible for flower formation is not so clear. Many cultivated forms only produce relatively short shots that are intermediate between both types and can carry flowers or not.
Roses are perhaps not the best example against my theory because they are more strubs than trees. And the whole Roseacea familiy is even a more difficult analogy as some members are trees, others strubs and some forbs. There are also intermediate forms and a development from one form to the other.

Regarding Citrus I admit that some madarinelike varieties and Kumquats produce flowers at the top of new growth, new growth that can be the very top of a tree. It would be interesting if that also happens with first flowers. I do not know the answer. I only suspect that a young seedling is strong growing and that the strongest growing twigs will not flower simply because they focus on new growth.

The difference between Poncirus and Mandarines is anatomically not so great I think: The habit of mandarines or kumquats to produce flowers at the top of new growth is perhaps the original state. Poncirus has then reduced the flowering wood to 1mm without leaves so that only flowers seem to be build. It is rare that the original construction plan shines through. Because the twig that carries the flowers is so extremly reduced in Poncirus (and some other citrus) Poncirus introduced an intermediate step: It first builds short side shots which then produce the flowering wood which in fact is more a bunch of flowers than a twig.

21
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: The R.E.S. Method - Fruit From Seed in 1-2 Years
« on: January 25, 2025, 07:02:40 PM »
Yes. But partly that is quite not totally surprising. I do not know any tree that first flowers on the highest branches. Why should citrus do? It is in fact improbable that the highest and strongest growing twigs form flower buds. The trees that I have observed (fruit trees of Roseaceae family, walnut, chestnut, hazelnut) always form flowers buds on weaker growing twigs which are almost necessarily lower twigs. That has probably something to do with hormon concentrations / hormon mixture.

What regards Poncirus, Poncirus flowers usually appear on short side shots. This kind of twigs only occur at lower branches. Even when I use mature Poncirus buds for grafting I have the first flowers not before the third year: In the first year the graft produces a strongly growing usually unbranched shot. In the second year that shot produces short side shots with flower buds. And in the third year these flower buds open. Twigs with short side shots can only be on older wood. And that is not on the top of the tree. The last Poncirus seedling that flowered for the first time had its first flowers somewhere in the middle on twigs that were weakly growing but high enough that they got sufficiant sun light.
I also saw that first flowers of Poncirus tend to be female sterile. That is probably not by chance. I think, the tree wants to propagate itself but feels that it is too small to produce many fruits. It must have a certain sense for its own size or energetic potential. And so it decides to propagate itself in a less exhausting form, i. e. via pollen. Chestnut does the same even more consequently. It flowers on small young trees but ONLY with male flowers.

Poncirus might be special, however, as compared to citrus. Citrus plants that bloom on the same year's shots may follow less clear patterns. And Poncirus F1 hybrids seem to have flower buds formed in the same year on new growth and also on last year growth (winter buds). That may in part explain that a Swingle 5 Star seedling that bloomed for the first time in 2024 had many fruits on very hight positions but also some on lower branches. It seems that when the tree entered the mature phase it entered the phase as a whole.

That a certain position of a graft in a tree does not necessarily and immediately beam the graft into the mature phase could be seen in a pear tree of mine this year in which I had budded juveline buds last year. The shots of this year (i. e. first growth) were very thorny, a strong sign that they remained juvenile for the most part of the year. Some, however, reduced the thorns while they became longer. That might be a sign that they shifted to the mature phase. Pear is not citrus. But perhaps it is a model for citrus. If so it would show that the juvenile tissue needs some time or some cell divisions to recognize its new position in a mature tree.

22
Ilya has just recently sent a fruit of Staruzu (5 Star x Yuzu) to me. It was as big as a big Clementine or small orange. It contained only a few seeds. Taste was sour and aromatic with a good proportion of bitterness, the kind of bitterness you know from grapefruits or Ichang Papeda. No internal oils. Very juicy. I am not a real friend of bitter fruits, yet I found it pretty good for lemonade or as a spice for cooking.

23
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: US-802 citrumelo
« on: January 25, 2025, 02:23:33 AM »
The fruits of US-802 seem to be sour. See https://idtools.org/citrus_id/index.cfm?packageID=1179&entityID=8884
A cross between Siamese Sweet and Poncirus is supposed to be about half as sour as Poncirus what would still be sour. So I do not clearly see whether US-802 comes from Siamese Sweet pumelo or just Siamese pumelo. An additional problem is that idtools.org has always only very limited taste descriptions. They state for example for Morton just "sour". "Sweet-sour" would be much more appropriate. If US-802 is sweet-sour then it could well come from Siamese Sweet.
I wonder, however, that official descriptions of the rootstock only state that it comes from "Siamese pumelo" and never say "Siamese Sweet".
UCR Riverside differentiates between Siamese Sweet and Siamese. Cf. https://citrusvariety.ucr.edu/citrus-varieties/alphabetical-order#s

24
Welcome to the Forum, Rei! And thank you for the detailed report. It seems that our climate is quite similar. I live near Aachen (Aix-la-Chapelle) but around 500m above sea level. Your winter seems similar but summer are probably warmer. How does pure Poncirus do in your climate?

25
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: The R.E.S. Method - Fruit From Seed in 1-2 Years
« on: January 21, 2025, 05:26:26 PM »
My seedlings flowered at a certain height but not always at the highest twigs. The total size and height of the tree did matter not so much the special position of the twigs that were to flower.

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