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Messages - Till

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1
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Fukushu X PT seed
« on: May 03, 2025, 11:26:14 AM »
I would not be too excited at the moment. It happens from time to time that seedlings have abnormal leaves, sometimes what you have sometimes three first leaves. It becomes exciting when the next leaves are also weird.

2
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Spidermites!
« on: April 27, 2025, 05:23:28 AM »
Boris,
they give the Latin name here: https://insanehabitats.at/product/tyron-raubmilbe-gegen-milben-auf-weinreben-obstgehoelzen-1-pack-10-streifen-a-30-50-stk/ It is Typhlodromus pyri. You find a lot of pictures with google which are better than any description. Yes, I think "Typon" is some kind of marketing name or popular name.


3
I ate many sour oranges in Sizily. Bitter inside and definitely not like Lemons. Often not much juice. Yet an interesting aroma of its own.
It is commonly held that sour oranges are crosses between a mandarin and pumelo and that lemon is a cross of sour orange (female) and zitron (male). The typical lemon aroma comes from the zitron and perhaps also from the pumelo part of sour oranges. All that is so say that lemons are highly heterozygous. I unfortunatelly haven't experience with citremons but it is very improbable that all Citremons taste similar. Even pure poncirus has from type to type great differences in taste. Poncirus hybrids in general are a wide field from absolutely horrible taste to pretty good taste.

The starting point of our discussion was if somebody has experience with a specific citremon that seems to be extraordinary good. We should take care that we mention the specific citremon we refer to in our taste reviews.

What regards breeding new stuff crosses with kumquat hybrids or yuzu may also be a good idea. I have already crossed limequat with yuzu. Citrumelo crossed with Yuzu exists already. There are some ways to approach the typical lemon taste in combination with hardiness. Sour oranges would not be my favourites as they are not very hardy in my climate and are extremly susceptable to root rod as potted plants. I had to through away all because I did not want to root them all anew after each winter.

4
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Spidermites!
« on: April 26, 2025, 03:04:22 AM »
I had them from Austria. From here: https://insanehabitats.at/product/tyron-raubmilbe-gegen-milben-auf-weinreben-obstgehoelzen-1-pack-10-streifen-a-30-50-stk/
They cost only 18 Euro now but are still sold only in winter. There are other firms that sell them in Europe but they are by far not as common as other predator mites. Some firms only sell to institutions or other firms. I had to google a while and found about five sellers in Europe. Not many.
I could imagine that you can order them from Europe when you live in the US, except the genius at the head of the goverment happen to be inclined to prefer hidden greatnesses of the American fauna for selling.

When nothing help we could try an experiment the next winter. They sell the mites in a dormant state hidden in pieces of felt. The mites naturally hide in bark or such things during winter. I could hang some extra pieces of cloth in my greenhoues before winter and send you some. It is only an experiment. I suppose that I do not have many mites as I do not see their prey. (There will be little rests of spider mites but unvisible. Last autumn I saw some on one plant but they are gone again.)

Or I could oder for you and send the mites to the US. They should survive that when they are dormant.

5
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Spidermites!
« on: April 25, 2025, 04:11:21 AM »
I had very great problems with spidermites years ago. I could kill them with a soap solution but as they were in my two greenhouses that was too much work and never complete. I bought predator mites (native in Califormia) but they were to temperature sensitive. I live in zone 7 and my greenhouses are quite cool during winter.

I finially bought native predator mites called "Tyron" mites. They are used in wineyards and fruit plantages in zentral Europe. These mites killed all the spidermites. I got rid of all from January till summer and they never came again as these Tyron mites overwinter in the cold. I bought them in 2021 and have never again had problem with spider mites. From time to time I see a Tyron mite on a leaf. So they are still there. I cannot recommened Tyron enough. It is, however, not so easy to buy them. They sell only big packages for about 70 Euro and deliver only in January. But it is really worth buying them when you have a greenhouse. They tolerate cold, even strong frost. They tolerate dry air and moist air. And they are very effective. And I think the prize is ok when I recall what I had spend for soap solution over the years and for predator mites that are not climate resistant.

6
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: First fruits of Citrangeremo
« on: April 20, 2025, 11:50:24 AM »
Nothing special. And bark was green. The trunk had only a many year old half-healed wound. But that cannot be the reason for the decline of the tree.

Sadly to say: I had a similar loss in a different greenhouse. A huge Calamondin tree suddently did not grow, got more flowers than usually turned yellow and died. It was grafted on Flying Dragon. In the same greenhouse as Citrangeremo was a well growing small Sudachi tree on Poncirus. The same picture as Citrangeremo: First flowers after the winter but no growth, then yellow leaves and dead. I could save Calamondin and Sudachi on Poncirus and C35, respectively. I Poncirus big Poncirus tree (Nikita and something similar) also declined but the reason is clear: Some kind of mildow in the bark at about 30cm above ground. The roots are still healthy. All that happened during winter.

I think there is something in the earth or in the air (obvious in winter mildow) but not a mouse. I would have observed that. The desease cannot be very infective as trees right besides the deceased ones still prosper.

I take it as fate or God's will. My space is very limited because I cannot cultivate Citrus plants unprotected inground and I produce new hybrids every year that will soon need space. I made a number of Calamondin hybrids. So it is ok that the Calamondin project is closed for some years. I realized that I do not necessarily need Sudachi for the next years. So it is ok, especially because the huge HRS899a bush right besides it needs more space to come to flowering size. I was very keen on Citrangeremo but realized at the end that it does not offer much to my breeding goals. So it is ok that it makes space for Poncirus seedlings that I once got through the forum and that should get very good fruits. I have plenty of seedlings of Nikita, supposedly many hybrids (Cicitranges). So it is ok that Nikita makes a pause for some years, especially because I need space for better Poncirus varieties (Poncirus+, PT #7 and others) and by now switched my hybridizing plans to Poncirus Till #1 which is better than Nikita. In a few year, my smaller Nikita trees will begin to flower, probably early enough for the next plans.

In earlier days I was very frustrated by any loss. But now that my collection contains better and better varieties (thanks to many kindly giving forum members) I begin not only to be happy for any fresh good growth but also for some losses. Yet, I still cannot totally give up a variety. It's a weakness perhaps of my character or perhaps wise as I do not yet know what I will need in the future. I cannot really kill a tree. So it is perhaps good that God does the brutal job as I really need space.

7
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: First fruits of Citrangeremo
« on: April 19, 2025, 10:43:16 AM »
The Citrangeremo was grafted on Swingle Citrumelo which in principle does well on my somewhat loamy garden soil. It can be that the air was too moist during winter and some fungus entered the roots.
I have no own experience with the resistance of Citrangeremo roots. I have only read that all Australian species were imune to phytophthora. If that is true Citrangeremo is likely to be quite resistant against root rod when grown on its own roots. I can only tell that Fingerlime seedlings and also their hybrids with Ichang Papeda do well on their own roots. But Fingerlime is not E. glauca and both are not Citrangeremo.

8
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: First fruits of Citrangeremo
« on: April 18, 2025, 06:02:17 PM »
The remains of my Citrangeremo:





Saidly to say: My Citrangeremo had indeed some kind of root problem and died this year with the beginning of the first hot days. No growth, leaves were more yellow than last year and dried up very soon. I assume that some kind of fungus was the reason. But I did not see infections in the trunk.

What does that mean for my fruit evalution? Hmm, I am not sure. We have to recogn with the case that fruits would have been better when the plant had been more healthy. It may also have happened that it had produced viable pollen and seeds when it had been more healthy. Yet, I have doubts what regards the latter possibility. I have a big Swamp Lemon tree in the same greenhouse that got a cerious fungus (mildew) infection with similar symptoms as the Citrangeremo. But it produced a normal amount of pollen and even viable seeds. The Swamp Lemon tree is not totally dead. It has new growth from lower parts. So the cases are not idential, only similar. Nonetheless it has to be questioned that the Citrangeremo would have been more fruitful with healthy roots because it got absolutely zero pollen and despite the many fruits only one highly polyembryonic seed that was not fully developed. That seems to be genetically determined. And I mean it was alive enough last year that it could grow a bit (not much) and bring the fruits to maturity.

I asked myself another question: Would the Citrangeremo ever have bloomed when it had remained healthy? I think no. I waited over ten year for blossoms and nothing happened. It only bloomed when it was ceriously ill and felt that it was to die. It seems to be really slow to bloom or blooms only as a huge tree.
I do not want to frustate those who want to grow it. Maybe the late fruiting is not that great a problem when somebody lives in a hot climate. I am optimistic that Citrangeremo will soon form a huge tree there as it is a fast growing plant.

I hope that I could save the variety. I made cuttings last year. The cutting did not root but did not suffer either. I made some grafts from these onto Poncirus. I think one at least should take. I have usually a very high rate of takes.

9
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: An unusual seedling
« on: March 09, 2025, 06:11:14 PM »
Let's wait. I had seedlings that lost the central bud. It took a very very long time until it the top of the stem burst and a new bud appeared.

10
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Tetraploid Satsuma
« on: February 06, 2025, 03:26:54 AM »
I also did my best yesterday to search for the right percentage of colchicin in the internet. There is not much information around and the amount of colchicin used varies from experiment to experiment and from species to species. But the amount in the bulb of Cholchicum autumnale seems to be sufficient to double the chromosome number.
I want to try the juice of Cholchicum in spring, not on Citrus but on growing buds of two Sorbus hybrids. I hope that I will have time enough and be successful. If so I am going to post it here.

11
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Tetraploid Satsuma
« on: February 04, 2025, 08:41:19 AM »
What concentration of cholchizin is needed for doubling the chromosome number? Is it perhaps possible to just use the juice of cholchicum autumnale? It should contain up to 0,2% in the bulb, 0,03% in the leaves, 1,8% in the flowers according to wikipedia.

12
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: The R.E.S. Method - Fruit From Seed in 1-2 Years
« on: January 27, 2025, 06:23:18 PM »
Roses are a good example against my observation. But I think only seemlingly. There is the tendency in Roses to produce short fruiting wood. I am not an expert for Roses but I think the wild Roses first produce a long flowerless shot and then have flowers on short side shots in the following year. Cultivated forms can be different in that the differentiation between long twigs responsible for growths in lenght and short twigs responsible for flower formation is not so clear. Many cultivated forms only produce relatively short shots that are intermediate between both types and can carry flowers or not.
Roses are perhaps not the best example against my theory because they are more strubs than trees. And the whole Roseacea familiy is even a more difficult analogy as some members are trees, others strubs and some forbs. There are also intermediate forms and a development from one form to the other.

Regarding Citrus I admit that some madarinelike varieties and Kumquats produce flowers at the top of new growth, new growth that can be the very top of a tree. It would be interesting if that also happens with first flowers. I do not know the answer. I only suspect that a young seedling is strong growing and that the strongest growing twigs will not flower simply because they focus on new growth.

The difference between Poncirus and Mandarines is anatomically not so great I think: The habit of mandarines or kumquats to produce flowers at the top of new growth is perhaps the original state. Poncirus has then reduced the flowering wood to 1mm without leaves so that only flowers seem to be build. It is rare that the original construction plan shines through. Because the twig that carries the flowers is so extremly reduced in Poncirus (and some other citrus) Poncirus introduced an intermediate step: It first builds short side shots which then produce the flowering wood which in fact is more a bunch of flowers than a twig.

13
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: The R.E.S. Method - Fruit From Seed in 1-2 Years
« on: January 25, 2025, 07:02:40 PM »
Yes. But partly that is quite not totally surprising. I do not know any tree that first flowers on the highest branches. Why should citrus do? It is in fact improbable that the highest and strongest growing twigs form flower buds. The trees that I have observed (fruit trees of Roseaceae family, walnut, chestnut, hazelnut) always form flowers buds on weaker growing twigs which are almost necessarily lower twigs. That has probably something to do with hormon concentrations / hormon mixture.

What regards Poncirus, Poncirus flowers usually appear on short side shots. This kind of twigs only occur at lower branches. Even when I use mature Poncirus buds for grafting I have the first flowers not before the third year: In the first year the graft produces a strongly growing usually unbranched shot. In the second year that shot produces short side shots with flower buds. And in the third year these flower buds open. Twigs with short side shots can only be on older wood. And that is not on the top of the tree. The last Poncirus seedling that flowered for the first time had its first flowers somewhere in the middle on twigs that were weakly growing but high enough that they got sufficiant sun light.
I also saw that first flowers of Poncirus tend to be female sterile. That is probably not by chance. I think, the tree wants to propagate itself but feels that it is too small to produce many fruits. It must have a certain sense for its own size or energetic potential. And so it decides to propagate itself in a less exhausting form, i. e. via pollen. Chestnut does the same even more consequently. It flowers on small young trees but ONLY with male flowers.

Poncirus might be special, however, as compared to citrus. Citrus plants that bloom on the same year's shots may follow less clear patterns. And Poncirus F1 hybrids seem to have flower buds formed in the same year on new growth and also on last year growth (winter buds). That may in part explain that a Swingle 5 Star seedling that bloomed for the first time in 2024 had many fruits on very hight positions but also some on lower branches. It seems that when the tree entered the mature phase it entered the phase as a whole.

That a certain position of a graft in a tree does not necessarily and immediately beam the graft into the mature phase could be seen in a pear tree of mine this year in which I had budded juveline buds last year. The shots of this year (i. e. first growth) were very thorny, a strong sign that they remained juvenile for the most part of the year. Some, however, reduced the thorns while they became longer. That might be a sign that they shifted to the mature phase. Pear is not citrus. But perhaps it is a model for citrus. If so it would show that the juvenile tissue needs some time or some cell divisions to recognize its new position in a mature tree.

14
Ilya has just recently sent a fruit of Staruzu (5 Star x Yuzu) to me. It was as big as a big Clementine or small orange. It contained only a few seeds. Taste was sour and aromatic with a good proportion of bitterness, the kind of bitterness you know from grapefruits or Ichang Papeda. No internal oils. Very juicy. I am not a real friend of bitter fruits, yet I found it pretty good for lemonade or as a spice for cooking.

15
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: US-802 citrumelo
« on: January 25, 2025, 02:23:33 AM »
The fruits of US-802 seem to be sour. See https://idtools.org/citrus_id/index.cfm?packageID=1179&entityID=8884
A cross between Siamese Sweet and Poncirus is supposed to be about half as sour as Poncirus what would still be sour. So I do not clearly see whether US-802 comes from Siamese Sweet pumelo or just Siamese pumelo. An additional problem is that idtools.org has always only very limited taste descriptions. They state for example for Morton just "sour". "Sweet-sour" would be much more appropriate. If US-802 is sweet-sour then it could well come from Siamese Sweet.
I wonder, however, that official descriptions of the rootstock only state that it comes from "Siamese pumelo" and never say "Siamese Sweet".
UCR Riverside differentiates between Siamese Sweet and Siamese. Cf. https://citrusvariety.ucr.edu/citrus-varieties/alphabetical-order#s

16
Welcome to the Forum, Rei! And thank you for the detailed report. It seems that our climate is quite similar. I live near Aachen (Aix-la-Chapelle) but around 500m above sea level. Your winter seems similar but summer are probably warmer. How does pure Poncirus do in your climate?

17
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: The R.E.S. Method - Fruit From Seed in 1-2 Years
« on: January 21, 2025, 05:26:26 PM »
My seedlings flowered at a certain height but not always at the highest twigs. The total size and height of the tree did matter not so much the special position of the twigs that were to flower.

18
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: The R.E.S. Method - Fruit From Seed in 1-2 Years
« on: January 20, 2025, 04:46:29 PM »
I had heard about the method earlier but it was good to have it described again with more detail. It could be something I should try.
It would be interesting for me, however, what the advantages of this method is as compared to just grafting young juvenile material into the crown of an older tree or to graft young seedlings on rootstocks that are about 1,5m high. I have very limited space but some bigger trees that I do not want to completely topgraft but would like to use part of them for accelerating fruit bearing of young hybrids.
According to my experience all seedlings - at least Poncirus and its hybrids - bloom at about 2m height. So I guess that height is what counts.

19
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Cold hardy lemons
« on: January 17, 2025, 05:44:17 AM »
Has anybody experience with crosses between Lemon and Pumelo or Citron and Pumelo? There are some such crosses around. I saw them in the catalog of Agrumi Lenzi. But I have never seen or tasted one. I wonder if the peel is edible or not.

20
Fits my impression. The last cross was Sucrena x Ichang Papeda. The seedlings are to small to be fully evaluated. But some show clear signs of hybrid nature. Sucrena should be highly nucellar as all sweet oranges. But seedlings look different. Dunstan Citrumelo x Ichang Papeda also resulted in hybrids (one fruit, two hybrids).

21
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Cold hardy lemons
« on: January 16, 2025, 06:01:57 PM »
At least we two can shamelessly exchange plants  :) Nice to hear that your Violetta is well. I remember the young plant.

22
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Cold hardy lemons
« on: January 16, 2025, 08:31:55 AM »
Interesting the seedlings of Violetta! I did not hear about them before.

Regarding pollen, hmm, it is of cause difficult for a citrus enthusiast to avoid any pollen contamination whatsoever when he wants to write a letter to the US....

23
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Cold hardy lemons
« on: January 16, 2025, 04:53:31 AM »
Regarding Pumelos, I think of Pumelos because they have the typical citrus taste but not the orange / mandarine taste and are closer to lemons in that regard. Fingerlimes are also extremly sour but their taste is not so complex as Lemon taste.

We have in fact not many Pumelos in our stores in Germany. They only sell one variety with luck two, a red one and a white one. They are called Honey Pumelo which is, I think, a cross between grapefruit and pumelo with bitter segment walls but non-bitter juice sacks. The same with grapefruits. They only sell Star Ruby. You may find one other variety in Turkish shops. So the stores are really boring. But you can buy many other varieties as plants.
Regarding hardy stuff we got almost everything from the US but have meanwhile bred a number of varieties by ourselves. We envy what you have but sometimes we have things that you don't have. It is a pitty that plant exchange between Europe and US is close to impossible. It should, however, be possible to legally exchange pollen. I think we should use that much more in future.

Just an afterthoughts to my comments on possible breeding partners: Limes and Lemons have both the citron as their father. That makes Limequats interesting. While any kumquat hybrids that I know have a thin peel it is not clear to me what happens when you cross a Kumquat hybrid back to citrus. It might be that the peel is bigger then AND edible.

Is anybody aware of "Violetta Voss"? That is a lemonlike variety with medium hardiness (around -8°C). It is probably a cross between a citron and Ichang Papeda. It grows very well.

24
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Cold hardy lemons
« on: January 15, 2025, 05:31:07 PM »
I have Limequat Tavares x Yuzu two seedlings. They are only 30cm high so far. Let's hope they will taste good. I have also Red Fingerlime x Ichang Papeda. The seedlings are only one year old but grow well so far. They look very similar to pure Fingerlime seedlings.

I find most theoretical considerations here quite reasonable. But perhaps we should just try. Thank you Lauta_hibrid that you took the first steps. Considerations about probabilities of success are good to remind us of the effort that might be needed but they remain highly speculative. A few years ago hardly anybody believed in the possibility of tasty Poncirus hybrids in the old citrus forum. Now we have already some and it has become silent about the skepticism. How much more can we hope in lemonlike hardy citrus?

Ichang Papeda is very sour but also bitter. When bitterness is not dominantly inherited (there seems to be hope) than a Lemon substitute is not far from possible on the basis of Ichang Papeda.

Opinions on Yuzu seem to greatly differ between Europeans and Americans. The reason may be that we Europeans have other types of Yuzu. My Yuzu allows you to make a very tasty lemonade. I do not view my Yuzu as a poor Lemon substitute but as a fruit the taste of which is perfect in itself that allows to make a lemonade that is equal to or better than Lemon lemonade. The only disadvantage is the many seeds.

My impression is that Pumelo is a good source for Lemon taste besides Lemons, as others have already noted. I think citrumelos should receive more focus in our brain storming. They have the poncirus taste that we don't want but also have a strong lemon taste.

I wonder why nobody wants to include Ilya's Ichangstars in his or her breeding plan. They are probably hardier than Swingle 5 Star and Ichang Papeda and have a better taste than both.

Has somebody tasted Citrumelo x Yuzu? There is such a cross in Frensh nurseries and is much praised for its taste. And Ilya has also produced such crosses. Perhaps a good Lemon substitute already exists.

Maybe I have overlooked something but I think nobody has spend a though to the taste of the peel. For me, Lemon peel tastes very good or at least interesting. A Lemon substitute should at best have an edible peel. It is alluring to think of Kumquat as a source for breeding now. But I have Buddhas Hand x Kumquat and can tell that its peel is extremly thin and a bit bitter. It seems to me that crosses between Kumquat and Citrus have always a thin peel. Somebody who wants to breed for thick edible peel should therefore better think of alternatives to Kumquat: simply citron, Haruka, Keraji mandarine (peppery peel!) or better citrumelos. The peel of Poncirus hybrids usually tastes horrible. But Staraji has peel that is ok and I have a hybrid that is falsely sold as "Rusk" by Oscar Tintori nursery that has a peel that tastes like citrus peel. So it seems possible that the horrible peel taste of Poncirus hybrids can be outbred. So breeding experiments with the goal of edible peel may include citrumelos. The thick peel of pumelos seems to be easily passed on to its offspring while there is hope that the taste improves.

As I mentioned elesewhere, hardiness is relative. It is not only important how may digits below freezing a plant can withstand but also how resistant it is to late frost in spring. To those fearing late frost I would recommend thinking about Yuzu. It is sometimes less susceptible to late frost than Poncirus and my Yuzu x Poncirus grows as late in spring as pure Yuzu.

Pure Poncirus has different tastes. Some varieties have mainly a Lemon taste while others also have stronger orange notes. Good Poncirus types are already hardy substitutes for Lemons as long as you are only interested in making lemonade from them. (Let the juice stand in a glas for some hours and throw away the bottom fraction.)





25
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Fukushu X PT seed
« on: January 14, 2025, 05:42:03 PM »
Yes. It has also something to do with continental versus atlantic climate. I live in a cool atlantic climate. That means relatively mild winter and relatively cool summer. The larger area of my home is pretty warm for Germany but in my special case that does not help because I live 500m above sealevel. That means 4°C less than the low lands that surround me.

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