The Tropical Fruit Forum

Isnt it possible for the op to just do several large air layers, prior to the move and root prune? I dont know how much tome do lychee air layers take to root, but if they have the time to wait, they may end up with several good air layers, after which the attempt at excavating the whole tree could tak3 place.

Good luck with your plant, as far as i know vanilla is a hard plant to force into blooming, outside its native range. Mine died due to cold, i have to buy a few more plants, now that i have better conditions for them to grow in.
Is the flower scented?

Thanks! Really have to take it out, its smothering everything planted below it. I can see by the mess of so many entangled vines, i will spend a whole day untying and carefully guiding vines out of a small hole in the poli.

Brian ,you can try to grow it in the greenhouse, vertically on one of the walls. Mine is possitioned like that, i have a net on one side of the greenhouse, made for passiflora. Its alot of work keeping them managable this way ,but its doable.
Mine is going on a summer vacation outside, for the summer, i will take it back inside and tie it on the wall in fall, which will be a shitty job, depending on how much fruit is left on those vines.
I will update with pics when i take it out, i hope it doesnt get a setback due to sun exposure or environment change overall, edulis has been very resilient for me so i hope all goes well.

First year of a heavy flowering for my almond. The tree had 3/4 of its canopy top worked 2 years ago, you can barely notice it now, the canopy has grown a 100 percent to its original size in 2 years.
I have 3 varieties on the tree, the goal of the partial top working was to add 2 different varieties ,so that the 3 of them cross pollinate for a better fruit set. Alot of early flowered flowers have their ovaries killed by the last freeze, but i still have alot of the flowers that are flowering now ,in a way more decent weather. Hope for a good harvest for the first time.

Daintree, i didnt fix the styrofoam house to the ground in any way , it was so tight on the canopy and the friction from the branches kept it quite sturdy, i just placed some soil at the bottom to fill up the holes i had.
I dont know to what an extend the box helped, meaning that the fig right next to the enclosed one managed just fine trought thim mild winter. However, last winter was kinda like the one this year, and then i had almost every tip bud on the covered/back then uncovered fig, die due to frost. This year with the coverage 100% of the tips are healthy and green, wating for the plant to start to wake up. The other one that didnt got protection is awready waking up, i suspect since i removed the coverage on this one a week or so ago, it will wake up later. This may be an advantage, the white box apparently kept it cooler now in spring, thus altering an early wake up. I think i could have left the box on till like the end of april, and the plant would still be dormant by the time i remove it, works kinda like an refrigeration box .


Bussone, i past years i was also doing the winter protection on the inground figs this way, some tightly packed hay, covered with an nylon bag, covered with a white reflecting weaved sack. Worked well, ive also done the ground burying method, also works fine, as long as you have young flexible stemms that you could guide down.
Nice fig plant by the way, mine are smaller than this, will post pick of them tomorrow. 

I let them stack and don't worry about it. I remove maybe 10-20% of old growth that is tired, burnt from frost, or diseased and then I tip the good looking old branches. DF fruits on older arms.

If you remove young arms, it will make it grow more arms all over, imo... Each node can be a fruit, or it can be an arm. You want fruit!

I think your plants will flower on the branches that are hanging down this year. They look old enough. Consider tipping them.

Edit: I forgot to add that when they start to make little branches below the trellis, I do flick those off before they turn into anything. Anything above the trellis I let it fly.

Thank you K -Rimes! All of the hanging branches have had their tips cut off, i also cut out the small/weak/short arms from the canopy. Ive red multiple times that one should keep the main vertical stems clean of branches, i do have some branches on mine, quite old ones which do not grow anymore, the only growth thats happening now is on the top. I will finally cut out the lower ones tomorow, they are just a few  and thats why i have let them be till now.
Some of the old branches are so thick and the aerioles are so swolen they look like they would wake up at any time soon, but yet they never do....

As i will have some unneded  cuttings after cutting them, i am wondering if dragon fruit vines themselves are actually edible, any recipes? Internet says that stems are edible ,but info seems scarce.

Here are a few up to date pics of the grafts, all 4 apear to have took, 3 of them are growing and the fourth is having an apical bud swell i think. Growing slowly atm , compared to the dragon fruits new growth. For anyone doing this i would suggest to do the grafts in the cleft style, alot easier to do and with this method the grafts have alot more surface area contact with the rootstock.

Finally pulled the trigger on a Jenny to leave space for another fruit, instead of fully covering the wall with male and female kiwis.

Another idea popped up on my mind. As I don't really need to have a heavy crop, would it be possible to grow it in a container with a "portable" support? In other words, the support will not be the wall but bamboo canes or something different put into the container as well.

I am also interested in the containerized kiwi idea, althought  i think mini/ arguta kiwis would be a better candidate for this, as they arent as agresive growers as the regular ones......

Has someone used the crushed seeds of cherimoya to make an insecticide? Can you share the recipe on how you did it?
Does it have any worthwhile effect and on what pests is it most effective against?
My cherimoya started fruiting and i have a load of seeds that i dont know what to do with, i would like to try to make this insecticide but not without first consulting the tropical fruit gang haha 

Aiptasia904, our winter this year was just a subzero week in february, got down to minus 12 C , otherwise the rest of the period was overly warm.  My trees are just now starting to wake up and swell buds, stonefruit being the first to do this, as usual. My arguta kiwi vines are also waking up , which i thought is a little strange but i dont really know at which time they woke up last year so ...
And yes , the waking up too early is kinda the essence of the problem, with those warm spells/periods trough winter.
I should probably start to write down dates of flowering for my trees ,so i at least have some data to compare from year to year. Cant really remember anything regarding flowering periods from last year lol....

Oolie, thanks for the heads-up up! My fruit is very good on the first year of fruiting, at least by my standards and limited cherimoya taste experiences(cultivars).
If they improve over time its just a plus !

Cool, very jealous. I’ve never been able to find one to taste in Canada. I just started mine from seed 2 years ago. I looked for years but I couldn’t get cultivars this far North. Is it the same requirements as sugar apple? What size of container did you use? Also when did it start flowering and how big is it now? Any other tips/tricks?

dont really know how cherimoya compares to sugar apple, ive heard that cherimoya is the easier to grow from the two. The plants were grown for the first 2-3 years in pots progressing in size, the final one was like a  20 liter bucket. I planted them inground in the greenhouse, 2 summers ago, they flowered for the first time last winter. This summer i trigerred them to flower by leaf stripping and pruning in july, they flowered trought August and i hand pollinated every single flower.
I have pruned them alot of times, i am actually wating on the fruits to all ripen now so i can prune once again and leaf strip, i hope to trigger an early blooming. They are hitting the top of the greenhouse now at around 2.5 meters.
I am still learning how to grow them as succesfully as i can, dont have the experience to have my own special tips regarding growing. I may have just one such, havent seen someone else doing it but for just a few plants like i have, bagging the fruit keeps it safe from falling and destroing itself, theres also the benefit of it hanging on the tree for the longest so it probably sweetens more. I found thet the fruit ripens fine ,even if the core pulls out, i did had just a little mold on one fruit but really not bag when i expected them holes to be full of mold in a day. Also you may want to be carefull with neem oil around your cherimoya, i burned mine exactly when they started setting fruit and now the fruit has those scars from the neem, it burned some of them quite bad, along with some of the leaves.

YES!!!! Thank you, I've been really careful only every 4-6 days, I uncover the very top part to check for root growth and if its still alive but was very surprised this time!

I don't know if this sounds dumb but would it be a good idea to maybe rub off the smaller growths? I don't think it'd be best for the plant to throw out 10 new shoots or if it'll prioritize by itself but its also insanely stressed and I've went way too mad scientist already

i would suggest to not disturb it any further, rubbing off the buds creates a pathway for pathogens, which at the stage you plant is in can be lethal, also the wounds will be too close to the soil, having constant moisture on them. Remove some of the soil around the seedling, just a little bit and do not cover it again, let it breathe.