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Messages - Plantinyum

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Isnt it possible for the op to just do several large air layers, prior to the move and root prune? I dont know how much tome do lychee air layers take to root, but if they have the time to wait, they may end up with several good air layers, after which the attempt at excavating the whole tree could tak3 place.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Inducing flowering in pomegranate
« on: May 21, 2023, 11:48:25 AM »
I am also interested as i have a 4 year old red giant variety , starting to leaf out right now, its a potted plant which i should repot in a bigger pot soon. I have a question on the flowering of pomegranate , do they flower on the new growth or do they set flower buds in the fall ,like most temperate fruit trees?havent had a pomegranate flower or fruit for me so dont have any personal data to lay on.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Oh happy day!
« on: May 16, 2023, 08:26:24 AM »
Good luck with your plant, as far as i know vanilla is a hard plant to force into blooming, outside its native range. Mine died due to cold, i have to buy a few more plants, now that i have better conditions for them to grow in.
Is the flower scented?

Temperate Fruit Discussion / Nectarine problems, i need your advice!
« on: April 27, 2023, 11:25:17 AM »
My beloved nectarine is acting funky lately, the leaves are super thin and do not expand as they should. Ive sprayed several times over winter with copper fugicide , that was before it woke up. I dont think this is peach leaf curl as there are no red bumps on the leaves and the plants leaves are all looking like that, whereas leaf curl affects mostly portions of the tree, when it is just starting.
I gave the tree granular fruit tree fertilizer with an even number, i think 15-15-15.
Could i have given the tree too much fertiliser? I have also sprayed last week with fungicide and incecticide, but i doubth that whats happening is triggered bu this, since i have 2 potted ,grafted nectarines from the same variety, that are not having this problem, they were also sprayed. I will show pictures of the inground one and of the potted ones, the difference is clearly visible.
Right now i think i may have overfertilized the plant, i have put generous amount of fert on it, thought i think it got the same amount compared to my other trees, which arent having any problems now. Anyway , i will water it heavily so as to wash off the excess fertilizer. I would be happy for the problem to be the fertiliser and not something more serious, this plant means alot to me.....
Here are pics of the problematic nectarine.
Does this look like a overfertilization problem ?

Here are the potted ones, leaves are visually wider and they look exactly like they should, they also got from the fertiliser, but of course alot less as they are potted.

Thanks! Really have to take it out, its smothering everything planted below it. I can see by the mess of so many entangled vines, i will spend a whole day untying and carefully guiding vines out of a small hole in the poli.

Brian ,you can try to grow it in the greenhouse, vertically on one of the walls. Mine is possitioned like that, i have a net on one side of the greenhouse, made for passiflora. Its alot of work keeping them managable this way ,but its doable.
Mine is going on a summer vacation outside, for the summer, i will take it back inside and tie it on the wall in fall, which will be a shitty job, depending on how much fruit is left on those vines.
I will update with pics when i take it out, i hope it doesnt get a setback due to sun exposure or environment change overall, edulis has been very resilient for me so i hope all goes well.

A little update on the passion fruit, the vine is flowering at the moment, never knew they could start flowering this early, potted speccimens always flowered for me in june/july , but those werent growing all winter in a warm greenhouse ,inground. Extremely vigorous, compare the pics from above to those of now, 3 months later the plant has grown ALOT.
Planning on taking it out at the start of may, they are predicting consistently warmer temps from then on.
I think i will have to do a umbrella with a nylon on top of the trellis, to prevent rain messing with the pollination of the flowers , i will be pollinating all of them on hand, hope for a huge harvest !

Temperate Fruit Discussion / Almond having a blast
« on: April 21, 2023, 07:58:51 AM »
First year of a heavy flowering for my almond. The tree had 3/4 of its canopy top worked 2 years ago, you can barely notice it now, the canopy has grown a 100 percent to its original size in 2 years.
I have 3 varieties on the tree, the goal of the partial top working was to add 2 different varieties ,so that the 3 of them cross pollinate for a better fruit set. Alot of early flowered flowers have their ovaries killed by the last freeze, but i still have alot of the flowers that are flowering now ,in a way more decent weather. Hope for a good harvest for the first time.

Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Fig winter protection
« on: April 21, 2023, 07:49:40 AM »
This is the one without winter protection, already waking up, the variety on this one is a hardy Bulgarian variety called mitchurinska 10.

This is the other one , its in a more open spot so this is probably why it gets frost bitten in winter, whereas the other one never had a problem, fruits of both are literally the same, i suspect this one is also mitchurinska 10, i collected it from the Black sea coast many years ago, grew it in a pot for a long time and i suspect that this stunted it a bit . As you can see it has quite a compact and dense canopy, figs are usually nowhere near as well behaved plants ,sizewise. 

Those are some cuttings l started last summer, its a big fruited variety i found in Sofia, the figs were delicious and quite big, also ripens at the start of september or even earlier. Plant is quite hardy, never saw a damaged branch by cold. I am planning to plant a few of these plants in a line, in a place where i have the opportunity to grow them as espaliers, i will definitely do a winter protection on those in their first winter, probably after that also.

Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Fig winter protection
« on: April 20, 2023, 01:43:34 PM »
Daintree, i didnt fix the styrofoam house to the ground in any way , it was so tight on the canopy and the friction from the branches kept it quite sturdy, i just placed some soil at the bottom to fill up the holes i had.
I dont know to what an extend the box helped, meaning that the fig right next to the enclosed one managed just fine trought thim mild winter. However, last winter was kinda like the one this year, and then i had almost every tip bud on the covered/back then uncovered fig, die due to frost. This year with the coverage 100% of the tips are healthy and green, wating for the plant to start to wake up. The other one that didnt got protection is awready waking up, i suspect since i removed the coverage on this one a week or so ago, it will wake up later. This may be an advantage, the white box apparently kept it cooler now in spring, thus altering an early wake up. I think i could have left the box on till like the end of april, and the plant would still be dormant by the time i remove it, works kinda like an refrigeration box .

Bussone, i past years i was also doing the winter protection on the inground figs this way, some tightly packed hay, covered with an nylon bag, covered with a white reflecting weaved sack. Worked well, ive also done the ground burying method, also works fine, as long as you have young flexible stemms that you could guide down.
Nice fig plant by the way, mine are smaller than this, will post pick of them tomorrow. 

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Transitioning indoor trees outside
« on: April 20, 2023, 05:46:06 AM »
I also have a lot of tropicals that i will be taking out soon, i will probably wait till the begginning of may, we sometimes have frosts up till the middle of may, but usually once may rolls in were pretty safe. Will try to keep them inside till the nightime temps outside get to at least 8-10 C, plants are really wanting to go outside NOW!
I usually dont fuss much about having them in total shade and slowly hardening them to the sun, i just place them in their planned spots, sometimes i may see something suffering a bit from the sun, but generally at the time i take them out its usually overcast almost every day, alot of rain also, so they have a suitable weather at the time of moving .
The only thing i put in total shade from the start are any plants that are known shade lovers. 

I let them stack and don't worry about it. I remove maybe 10-20% of old growth that is tired, burnt from frost, or diseased and then I tip the good looking old branches. DF fruits on older arms.

If you remove young arms, it will make it grow more arms all over, imo... Each node can be a fruit, or it can be an arm. You want fruit!

I think your plants will flower on the branches that are hanging down this year. They look old enough. Consider tipping them.

Edit: I forgot to add that when they start to make little branches below the trellis, I do flick those off before they turn into anything. Anything above the trellis I let it fly.

Thank you K -Rimes! All of the hanging branches have had their tips cut off, i also cut out the small/weak/short arms from the canopy. Ive red multiple times that one should keep the main vertical stems clean of branches, i do have some branches on mine, quite old ones which do not grow anymore, the only growth thats happening now is on the top. I will finally cut out the lower ones tomorow, they are just a few  and thats why i have let them be till now.
Some of the old branches are so thick and the aerioles are so swolen they look like they would wake up at any time soon, but yet they never do....

As i will have some unneded  cuttings after cutting them, i am wondering if dragon fruit vines themselves are actually edible, any recipes? Internet says that stems are edible ,but info seems scarce.

My vines are big enouth and every new branch that forms, adds a layer on top of the old ones, shading them which i dont think is optimal in any way. I want to consistently prune or even pinch off any new vegetative  growth that the plants want to make, hopefully cantaing the size this way and also i hope to trigger flowerring of the mature vines, along with fertilization? I recon the plants have enough mass to sustain themselves, given if i remove the new growth at all times.
Should i do this?

Here are a few up to date pics of the grafts, all 4 apear to have took, 3 of them are growing and the fourth is having an apical bud swell i think. Growing slowly atm , compared to the dragon fruits new growth. For anyone doing this i would suggest to do the grafts in the cleft style, alot easier to do and with this method the grafts have alot more surface area contact with the rootstock.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Tropical Pepino melon
« on: April 05, 2023, 08:31:23 AM »
Nice tread , i am also growing pepino mellons, last year i had 2 varieties, one with round fruit and another eith elongated oval ones. Didnt had them growing in the perfect conditions whille the fruit was ripening so it really wasnt that good. I discarded the round one, now left with the elongated type.
Havent really had a nicely ripened fruit till now, they awlays set in late summer/ fall ,dus they never have the chance to ripen in the sun and warmth.
2 years ago i had one thatripened earlier and i remember it was quite nice, aromatic, refreshing and juicy.
This year i will be making some kind of a trellis along a wall for them, also planting them in extra large pots so they have alot of room.
They awlays seem to have a mite or a whitefly infestation for me, quite prone to those 2 . Flowers smell like urine left in the sun , i really hate the smell of those flowers...

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Attaching kiwi to wall (no trellis)
« on: March 19, 2023, 04:29:57 PM »
Finally pulled the trigger on a Jenny to leave space for another fruit, instead of fully covering the wall with male and female kiwis.

Another idea popped up on my mind. As I don't really need to have a heavy crop, would it be possible to grow it in a container with a "portable" support? In other words, the support will not be the wall but bamboo canes or something different put into the container as well.

I am also interested in the containerized kiwi idea, althought  i think mini/ arguta kiwis would be a better candidate for this, as they arent as agresive growers as the regular ones......

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Cherimoya seeds as insecticide?
« on: March 18, 2023, 03:08:53 AM »
Thanks for the replies and information, Vegan Potato Man thanks for the link.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Cherimoya seeds as insecticide?
« on: March 17, 2023, 03:26:30 AM »
Has someone used the crushed seeds of cherimoya to make an insecticide? Can you share the recipe on how you did it?
Does it have any worthwhile effect and on what pests is it most effective against?
My cherimoya started fruiting and i have a load of seeds that i dont know what to do with, i would like to try to make this insecticide but not without first consulting the tropical fruit gang haha  ;)

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Bordeaux mix as Fungicide
« on: March 17, 2023, 03:04:51 AM »
I have been using bordeaux copper sprays for several years, i do several dormant sprays each year, 4 sprays in total ,2 in the fall and 2 in the spring. I think it has a good effect at keeping away most of the fungal issues on stonefruit, doesnt work quite well on apples in my experience. My peach and nectarines have always been very leaf curl free and fungal free in general, whereas i see other peoples peaches that look like garbage in the summer, leaf curl is a big problem here, without spraying.
Definitely should not be used on leaves ,especially on peach and nectarine, i was constantly spraying my peach several years ago,during summer. I was puzzled as to why the leaves were falling off green and looking sick overall. The tree almost completely deffoliated that year. Later i did a research and found that copper is toxic to leaves so it was burning my peaches leaves, i found this on my own , the lady at the agro store just kept selling me the bourdeaux solution, without telling me about the effects it had.....

Aiptasia904, our winter this year was just a subzero week in february, got down to minus 12 C , otherwise the rest of the period was overly warm.  My trees are just now starting to wake up and swell buds, stonefruit being the first to do this, as usual. My arguta kiwi vines are also waking up , which i thought is a little strange but i dont really know at which time they woke up last year so ...
And yes , the waking up too early is kinda the essence of the problem, with those warm spells/periods trough winter.
I should probably start to write down dates of flowering for my trees ,so i at least have some data to compare from year to year. Cant really remember anything regarding flowering periods from last year lol....

Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Fig winter protection
« on: March 12, 2023, 06:15:49 PM »
As an update, the plant in question will come out from winter with all of its tips intact, dunno about bennefits, ive only experienced drawbacks ,with this plant in particular when i have tip die back. Last year the figs on the 2-3 branches that had retained their tip buds grew significantly bigger, started forming earlier and as a result also ripened alot earlier compared to the rest. Those branches had signifficantly shorter internodes, visibly thicker stems and bigger leaves. It was very interesting to observe the differences between those branches and the rest , which were sprouts from latent buds along the stem, the difference was just night and day. I am fine with the plant not making alot of twiggery at this point, it is awready quite dense in there and i will have to prune some of the weaker branches this spring.

Did i need the styrofoam winter protection? I dont really know, the winter was very mild, i have another fig inground 2 meters from this one and it is totally fine, all buds green and ready for spring, but againg last winter the other one also didnt had any damage, whereas the one in questio,with the winter protection, had almost all of its tips burned.....

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Cherimoya bonanza
« on: March 06, 2023, 08:52:56 AM »
Oolie, thanks for the heads-up up! My fruit is very good on the first year of fruiting, at least by my standards and limited cherimoya taste experiences(cultivars).
If they improve over time its just a plus !

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Cherimoya bonanza
« on: March 06, 2023, 01:50:25 AM »
Very nice harvest.   I am jealous, I have a large in-ground grafted cherimoya but I have yet to get a single fruit to set.  I flowers a lot and I have been hand-pollinating them when I feel like it but I am lazy and probably not doing it right.  Meanwhile my container atemoya produces fine.  I am thinking of replacing the cherimoya with the atemoya (or topworking various annonas onto it) simply because hand pollinating is a chore. 

I just want to try the fruit first once before I give up on it.
Stange, does  your plant set initionally ,but later aborts the fruit? Or it doesnt set at all? When i hand pollinated mine, i did it every day around 4-5 pm, thats when the new flowers were opening as females. I think you may want to try harder at hand pollination, i doubt that mine would set anything without me pollinating.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Cherimoya bonanza
« on: March 05, 2023, 04:49:38 PM »
Cool, very jealous. Iíve never been able to find one to taste in Canada. I just started mine from seed 2 years ago. I looked for years but I couldnít get cultivars this far North. Is it the same requirements as sugar apple? What size of container did you use? Also when did it start flowering and how big is it now? Any other tips/tricks?

dont really know how cherimoya compares to sugar apple, ive heard that cherimoya is the easier to grow from the two. The plants were grown for the first 2-3 years in pots progressing in size, the final one was like a  20 liter bucket. I planted them inground in the greenhouse, 2 summers ago, they flowered for the first time last winter. This summer i trigerred them to flower by leaf stripping and pruning in july, they flowered trought August and i hand pollinated every single flower.
I have pruned them alot of times, i am actually wating on the fruits to all ripen now so i can prune once again and leaf strip, i hope to trigger an early blooming. They are hitting the top of the greenhouse now at around 2.5 meters.
I am still learning how to grow them as succesfully as i can, dont have the experience to have my own special tips regarding growing. I may have just one such, havent seen someone else doing it but for just a few plants like i have, bagging the fruit keeps it safe from falling and destroing itself, theres also the benefit of it hanging on the tree for the longest so it probably sweetens more. I found thet the fruit ripens fine ,even if the core pulls out, i did had just a little mold on one fruit but really not bag when i expected them holes to be full of mold in a day. Also you may want to be carefull with neem oil around your cherimoya, i burned mine exactly when they started setting fruit and now the fruit has those scars from the neem, it burned some of them quite bad, along with some of the leaves.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Cherimoya bonanza
« on: March 05, 2023, 12:07:12 PM »
Thanks for the kind words ! With cherimoya being my favorite fruit, i am happy that i finally have some homegrown ones to enjoy, i really would prefer a cherimoya as a dessert over anything else.

YES!!!! Thank you, I've been really careful only every 4-6 days, I uncover the very top part to check for root growth and if its still alive but was very surprised this time!

I don't know if this sounds dumb but would it be a good idea to maybe rub off the smaller growths? I don't think it'd be best for the plant to throw out 10 new shoots or if it'll prioritize by itself but its also insanely stressed and I've went way too mad scientist already :)
i would suggest to not disturb it any further, rubbing off the buds creates a pathway for pathogens, which at the stage you plant is in can be lethal, also the wounds will be too close to the soil, having constant moisture on them. Remove some of the soil around the seedling, just a little bit and do not cover it again, let it breathe.

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