Look at my mango tree(s)!

[zands]

One thing to keep in mind....there are multiple experts and videos in florida telling you when you plant mango to only water until established, and then leave it alone and do not ever water unless severe drought. There is an expert horticulturist here in phoenix that has been growing mango for over 20 years, and he writes in his blog that he waters the established ones twice a year. In Phoenix!
Water is the cause of most mango deaths, not temperature.

My take is mango trees grow quicker if watered every second day. So I do this for the first 3-4 years. Once a tree is established (after 3-4 years) then I rarely water it. While carrying fruit watering is a bad idea. But if it is a young tree with just a few fruit then I will keep watering every other day and if the fruit gets ruined then so be it. If it is young and bearing a lot of fruit then I will not be watering it

So my plan is to heavily mulch the young mango tree. When you water the tree and mulch it helps the mulch break down quicker into black humus. Which you need ever more in arid Arizona

[mangomaniac2]

One thing to keep in mind....there are multiple experts and videos in florida telling you when you plant mango to only water until established, and then leave it alone and do not ever water unless severe drought. There is an expert horticulturist here in phoenix that has been growing mango for over 20 years, and he writes in his blog that he waters the established ones twice a year. In Phoenix!
Water is the cause of most mango deaths, not temperature.

My take is mango trees grow quicker if watered every second day. So I do this for the first 3-4 years. Once a tree is established (after 3-4 years) then I rarely water it. While carrying fruit watering is a bad idea. But if it is a young tree with just a few fruit then I will keep watering every other day and if the fruit gets ruined then so be it. If it is young and bearing a lot of fruit then I will not be watering it

So my plan is to heavily mulch the young mango tree. When you water the tree and mulch it helps the mulch break down quicker into black humus. Which you need ever more in arid Arizona

That sounds just about right once established. For in ground mulch is great idea especially to help balance the soil ph. In pots however, too much organics leads to root fungus during winter and dries out too quickly in the summer, as well as raises the perched water table.
Watering every second day seems way to much to me ever though, I think all my trees would be bright yellow at that point. In pots, they need water every third day when highs are over 112 and nightly lows over 90, otherwise once a week is plenty during summer when it's 110 and lows in 80's, and every 10 to 14 days during spring/fall, every 3 weeks during dec/jan/feb. This is for my 3 and 7 gal, which my 3's are in 7 gal pots, and 7's are in shallow 15 gal. pots....any more water than that and I start seeing symptoms of over watering. In humid areas outside phoenix, watering schedule should be even less I would think. This schedule is assuming the proper watering technique of deep infrequent watering.

[mangomaniac2]

My shipment will be here tomorrow. I've been preparing for their arrival. I'd like you guys' opinions about their cold hardiness, suitability for container growing, and any other peculiar traits. I'd prefer to have them planted in the ground, if they can take the cold winter months (low 30s) and hot summer (upper 90s to low 100s). If not, they'll live in containers, I can bring them indoor or put them under a patio outside. These extreme temps don't usually occur for too many consecutive days. They're all listed as "3-gallon size". Is it OK if I put them in 5-7 gallon containers? Photos will be posted when they get here.
Thanks,

Bombay
Coc (Cat?)
Carrie
Coconut Cream
Irwin
Nam Doc Mai

I too am waiting for a 7 gal Dot to come from TT tomorrow or friday.
May I offer a couple ideas to really help you get your 3 gal plants grow into larger pots as quickly as possible?  The first would be using Rapidroot air pots, which help your soil dry out more quickly during winter when you still need to hydrate the plant but do not want the roots sitting wet for very long. Also, adding 1/4 to 1/3 part of your course soil mix use crushed lava rock. Crushed lava rock provides air to your roots, which makes them develop faster than you can ever imagine, especially if used in conjunction with happy frog soil conditioner and some good cactus/citrus potting mix.   With this mix it's really hard to over water and retains moisture for quite a while at same time. I also notice with our high PH water in phoenix that my plants in crushed lava rock absorb nutrients much better than those without, which is why once I discovered this I had to re pot all of my trees.

[zands]

That sounds just about right once established. For in ground mulch is great idea especially to help balance the soil ph. In pots however, too much organics leads to root fungus during winter and dries out too quickly in the summer, as well as raises the perched water table.
Watering every second day seems way to much to me ever though, I think all my trees would be bright yellow at that point. In pots, they need water every third day when highs are over 112 and nightly lows over 90, otherwise once a week is plenty during summer when it's 110 and lows in 80's, and every 10 to 14 days during spring/fall, every 3 weeks during dec/jan/feb. This is for my 3 and 7 gal, which my 3's are in 7 gal pots, and 7's are in shallow 15 gal. pots....any more water than that and I start seeing symptoms of over watering. In humid areas outside phoenix, watering schedule should be even less I would think. This schedule is assuming the proper watering technique of deep infrequent watering.

You are very knowledgeable about watering trees in pots. What I posted is not very applicable to your set up   I'll take some of your advice for what I have growing in pots. All my citrus is in pots. My coral rock soil was too inhospitable with its high ph

[zands]

They're all listed as "3-gallon size". Is it OK if I put them in 5-7 gallon containers? Photos will be posted when they get here.

I would carefully carefully carefully check all trees roots. If the roots are bound up then cut them gently with a serrated kitchen knife. Free them up on the sides and bottom. Then put tree in a larger pot you mention.

If the tree looks kind of young in the pot the soil might be kind of loose...so hard to check the roots but they are probably not bound up. You can relax and up-pot into a larger pot later.

If a tree is large and looks old for the pot it is in then it is more likely to have roots bound up. Don't worry about bound roots. I have cut and unbound roots many times before planting the tree in the ground

Example----  I bought a 3 gallon avocado tree. I cannot plant it in ground for a few months. I checked the roots and they were really bound up. So I gently cut and unbound the roots and put it in a larger pot where it is putting out new leaves
Example----- Another plant I bought the same day.... In a 3 gallon pot. The soil was too loose to check for bound roots and its unlikely they are

zzzzz

[mangomaniac2]

Zands...yes citrus is nearly the same as mangos. This is how I started to figure out how to grow something in arizona, by trying to establish citrus in my yard. Took a few years and killed almost everything until I finally removed the chlorine out of my water. This allowed me to keep something alive and able to water deeply without frying the roots, to then figure out the rest.

[jbaqai]

I agree with mangomaniac2 here
and i also learn by the hard way that the mango tree needs are different from the other tree i grow.

specially in case of the watering schedule.  During the winter season the less water is better.  i have killed many manila mango seedlings by watering them in the winter.

this year my fully healthy carrie tree, which was growing like crazy was first one to get killed by the heavy rain in the month of nov. it died within the time period of 1-2 weeks.

then again , this is my or mangomaniac2 observation , but you may do as what your research or experience may tell you soo.

[ClayMango]

I think you're missing the actual point that was made including the actual University research that went into this..... they are not saying you need to water your plants a lot in the winter...Never once did I or they mention your plants need a lot of water during the Winter....

What the Actual University Research is saying....including the highly esteemed CRFG members which I would bet my bottom dollar over anything in the world when it comes to gardening....Is on the night before a Frost....you need to water your trees....Not only does this Hydrate them and give them a better chance of survival from a dry tree....Water acts as a Heat Source like your South Facing Wall...

http://www.crfg.org/tidbits/bkydfrostprot.html

[ClayMango]

This is a proven law of science, cant really be debated.... "As weird as it may sound, the laws of thermodynamics prove that it is more difficult to cool humid air than dry air, so be sure to thoroughly water all of your trees and plants during periods of forecast frost or freeze. In addition, get your entire yard wet in the evening before forecast/ freeze. This boosts humidity in the immediate microclimate and will help minimize the effects of frost/ freeze on your trees and plants. "

http://www.moonvalleynurseries.com/weather-protection.html

[ClayMango]

University of Davis- " In the case of extreme Frost make sure your garden soil is moist. Damp soil retains heat better than dry soil, protecting roots and warming the area near the soil"


http://homeorchard.ucdavis.edu/8100.pdf

[Mark in Texas]

One thing to keep in mind....there are multiple experts and videos in florida telling you when you plant mango to only water until established, and then leave it alone and do not ever water unless severe drought. There is an expert horticulturist here in phoenix that has been growing mango for over 20 years, and he writes in his blog that he waters the established ones twice a year. In Phoenix!
Water is the cause of most mango deaths, not temperature.

Whoa, then I need to back off because I've been watering the heck out of my mangos since last Sept. upon receipt from PIN.  I thought mangos grew in rainy tropical areas?  Are they really that drought tolerant?

Also, rootstocks matter.  PIN uses turpentine.  Need to find out what it likes.

Good luck NewGen!  Yes, I'd upcan to a 5 gal. but it's your call based on what that rootball looks like upon receipt.  I also highly recommend RootMaker pots or any kind of root tip pruning "system".  You'll get twice the nutrient/water uptake in half the space.

Mark

[ClayMango]

One thing to keep in mind....there are multiple experts and videos in florida telling you when you plant mango to only water until established, and then leave it alone and do not ever water unless severe drought. There is an expert horticulturist here in phoenix that has been growing mango for over 20 years, and he writes in his blog that he waters the established ones twice a year. In Phoenix!
Water is the cause of most mango deaths, not temperature.

Whoa, then I need to back off because I've been watering the heck out of my mangos since last Sept. upon receipt from PIN.  I thought mangos grew in rainy tropical areas?  Are they really that drought tolerant?

Also, rootstocks matter.  PIN uses turpentine.  Need to find out what it likes.

Good luck NewGen!  Yes, I'd upcan to a 5 gal. but it's your call based on what that rootball looks like upon receipt.  I also highly recommend RootMaker pots or any kind of root tip pruning "system".  You'll get twice the nutrient/water uptake in half the space.

Mark

Mark,

I lived in Fl for over 20 years before joining the navy....But I dont think you need to be a Floridian to know it rains abut every other day with an afternoon shower at the bare minium.....These Mango trees thriving with only being watered twice a year once established?? Are we talking about Cactus here?

[ClayMango]

"Watering before a freeze can help protect plants. A well-watered soil will absorb more solar radiation than dry soil and will re-radiate heat during the night." http://www.naplesnews.com/news/2008/Jan/02/frost-heres-how-save-plants/

[edzone9]

Hello Gang;

My brother is visiting PR with his family in Arecibo Puerto Rico.
He just sent me this foto of a Monster Mango tree with 100's of Fruit !.

Ed..

[NewGen]

Can't wait to get started after work today. FedEx will drop off the boxes in the late afternoon. I've run into a little problem. The air pruning pots I ordered were delayed, due to the seller running out of stock. I'm not gonna wait for the new stock to arrive, will be at least a week later. I'm gonna use a fast draining mix in 7-gallon containers. I'll also drill a bunch of holes at the bottom and side of the pots.

[Tropicalgrower89]

Cool

[Tropicaliste]

Please tell me you "commisioned" your bro to buy and ship you some trees from PR.  It's one of the best resources, and frankly if I could go on vacation within the U.S. I would go to PR for the fruit trees to mail back. 
Nice tree too. lol

[edzone9]

He shipped me Wilson P avocado bud wood , Giant Passion fruit " the flower is purple " & Witchcraft black Orchad seeds wich i dont think i will be planting 

Ed..

[mangomaniac2]

Can't wait to get started after work today. FedEx will drop off the boxes in the late afternoon. I've run into a little problem. The air pruning pots I ordered were delayed, due to the seller running out of stock. I'm not gonna wait for the new stock to arrive, will be at least a week later. I'm gonna use a fast draining mix in 7-gallon containers. I'll also drill a bunch of holes at the bottom and side of the pots.

When you receive your trees from TT they state to use small pot for couple of weeks until it starts growing then pot up if you wish. I have found mango doesn't mind much if you change pots as long as your gentle and do not disturb the main root ball much. You can still use those air pots when they come.
Much of the success of planting often times starts with the first step, the pot and soil.

[NewGen]

Hmm, I might do as you suggested. My concern is that my area is hot and dry, and the "air pots" may evaporate too much. I don't want to have to water daily. I'll need to increase the organics component in the mix to retain more moisture. Just took a look at my front door and saw 2 boxes from TT. The next few hours will be hard. 

 

Can't wait to get started after work today. FedEx will drop off the boxes in the late afternoon. I've run into a little problem. The air pruning pots I ordered were delayed, due to the seller running out of stock. I'm not gonna wait for the new stock to arrive, will be at least a week later. I'm gonna use a fast draining mix in 7-gallon containers. I'll also drill a bunch of holes at the bottom and side of the pots.

When you receive your trees from TT they state to use small pot for couple of weeks until it starts growing then pot up if you wish. I have found mango doesn't mind much if you change pots as long as your gentle and do not disturb the main root ball much. You can still use those air pots when they come.
Much of the success of planting often times starts with the first step, the pot and soil.

[mangomaniac2]

Hmm, I might do as you suggested. My concern is that my area is hot and dry, and the "air pots" may evaporate too much. I don't want to have to water daily. I'll need to increase the organics component in the mix to retain more moisture. Just took a look at my front door and saw 2 boxes from TT. The next few hours will be hard. 

 

Can't wait to get started after work today. FedEx will drop off the boxes in the late afternoon. I've run into a little problem. The air pruning pots I ordered were delayed, due to the seller running out of stock. I'm not gonna wait for the new stock to arrive, will be at least a week later. I'm gonna use a fast draining mix in 7-gallon containers. I'll also drill a bunch of holes at the bottom and side of the pots.

When you receive your trees from TT they state to use small pot for couple of weeks until it starts growing then pot up if you wish. I have found mango doesn't mind much if you change pots as long as your gentle and do not disturb the main root ball much. You can still use those air pots when they come.
Much of the success of planting often times starts with the first step, the pot and soil.

To retain moisture definitely do no use more organic as this will add greater chance for root rot. If you want to retain more moisture then add some Turface MVP to your mix. It's granulated clay that does not break down and holds moisture for long time, and best of all is course so is easy to wet and easy to wash salts through. Another option, which helps if you have high ph water, is to add some soil mix high in spagnum peat moss. This will both retain water longer and adjust water ph at same time. I think this option is better with the air pots than the Turface MVP, but both work well at retaining water. Just be careful not to add too much peat because then water does not drain as well and perched water table rises basically drowning your roots.

[mangomaniac2]

This image is like a thousand words...looks like it's so arid nothing will grow but mango 

[Tropicdude]

Once the tree is established,  they can get by with very little water.

I was once looking into climate patterns in India where their best mangoes grow,  most of the year they get no rain, maybe just 2-3 inches, until the monsoon, then they get like two months non stop.

small tree I can understand watering them every once in awhile,  but once your tree is big enough, unless your in a desert, I really do not think you need to water them, specially in some parts of Florida,  at my house in Hollywood, I dug a hole once about 5ft or so, and sure enough I reached the water table.   My Valencia pride, is a big tree, about 40ft tall, Only watered it the first few months.  after that it has survived Wilma ( almost lost it ) , and neglect.

[MangoFang]

Congrats, newgen.  I've got 3 of your 6 varieties planted out.  CC, Bombay and NamDocMai.  Funny, you're the only other Bombay owner I know of in California....anyway....so much to talk about on the subject of hot and cold for growing mangoes in our extreme climate.

Not sure where to begin.  As Clay mentioned my summers are more extreme than yours, and very similar to mangomaniacs'.  In the desert here in Palm Springs I do have problems with a couple trees I've planted too close to walls that radiate the sun's heat.  I've had to shade them just now to protect from mango fruit "burn" (believe it or not!) as I lost a bunch of smaller fruit a little while ago that I contribute to excess heat....but I digress from your original plea for help....

I've planted all my trees in native sandy soil, and mulch them on top, so it's fast draining, and yet does retain some moisture from evaporation.  This time of year, when the temps are consistently near 90 I water every other day.  Do NOT plant any mango trees in from of sunny Western facing walls.....they may survive but won't do much else.  As someone else stated, you could water every day at this temperature or above, but the challenge is to find the right balance so your not wasting water, also.  That tree that Mangomaniac posted which I guess is in Phoenix - if that truly gets watered only twice a year in addition to the scant rainfall of that region, I am thoroughly impressed and will have to rethink the amount of water I give to my largest 10 year old Manila tree.....

Now heading into winter, I know my yard's temperature variance by now, and the little mango orchard area I have in the front/side of the house is the most cold susceptible of all.  There i have 5 trees that are mulched with wood chips - 4 inches thick or so - in an area about 8' x 15'  that on predicted cold nights (38 or below), I water/spray the mulch the morning before so during the day, it can gain heat and release it at night.  That plus being super cautious, I cover the whole area with a pvc scaffold and frost cloth.  Sometimes I even leave a small heater on inside this array just to be extra safe.  This last winter I was away for almost 3 weeks and left the frost cloth on the entire time and they came out unscathed.  I am a real scared chicken when it comes to the cold and take extra precautions, having lost a number of trees in the early years.  PVC is very cool stuff as you can assemble and un-assemble very easily and just pack it away in the springtime.  As far as watering. I'm still at every other day but lower the minutes, cuz these are still 2 year old trees...

I've never really kept things in pots, so can't offer any advice there,newgen....I do know that those black pots can get real hot at 100 degrees, and the roots really wouldn't like that at all....maybe you could bury them, or at least make sure they are free of that blazing afternoon sun - but you probably know all that.....

Good luck...........Gary

[Mark in Texas]

Once the tree is established,  they can get by with very little water.

They can get by, but they won't flourish according to a mango expert I talked to out of Florida.  Getting by and performing is night and day.  Bottom line, mangoes are a tropical tree that is used to a lot of rain.

We all have different conditions and not ANY one of our recommendations will completely fit the next guy's routine.  One can only learn to read their plants, not force them, and let nature run its course.

Mark