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Messages - K-Rimes

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1
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Can Pawpaw be grafted onto cherimoya?
« on: September 21, 2021, 11:41:19 AM »
I've heard of it working but not commonly. I tried it the other way and didn't have any success.

2
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Looking for grow lights that last
« on: September 09, 2021, 03:41:17 PM »
I am using 240w LED quantum boards from Alibaba from Meiju lighting company. $157 delivered to the US. I've run mine for probably almost a year straight and not even one LED is burnt out.

Used to use them for tropical plants with great success but they've moved onto other tasks now. They develop very minimal heat and don't need any ventilation. They're especially nice to run in the winter because the minor ambient heat is nice in your house.

3
Real nice stuff, good job. I am tempted but have too many plants already

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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: First fruiting - Campomanesia guazumifolia
« on: September 08, 2021, 02:51:04 PM »
Awesome and thank you for your post, really helped me better understand what mine needs. Mine has also been crushing it and doubled in size this year and put out a few weak flowers. It makes sense about the humidity, mine has been way happier in my greenhouse dead center. It wasn't doing as well when it was by the door. Do you have yours in full sun?

5
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: californian cherimoya
« on: September 04, 2021, 03:02:12 PM »
Yes, it takes some months for a fruit to fully develop. You'll want to pollinate them ASAP with your shorter  growing season, I would try them all season long and then pick and choose how many to keep into winter.

I do not see much difference between my cherimoyas for flowering, all the same. Atemoya however is later.

Seed count has much to do with how much pollen you use. If you use a lot and they all hit home on the female part of the flower more seeds. You want the minimum amount of flower to ensure fewer seeds.

I would pick el bumpo, of those varieties. Other people can chime in if I'm wrong!

6
i dunno ,i uploaded the first set of pics without any problems, just add the links and then the writing was kind of hard sinse i was always forgetting what pic was next ....i dunno why u are having problems with this , the site via which i post the images is postimage...

Thanks.   Never have been able to load a bunch.  The Postimage window just shuts down.  Am using Firefox.

It's off and on for me too, but some days it works really well. I mostly upload directly from my phone.

7
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: californian cherimoya
« on: September 04, 2021, 01:46:30 PM »
The defoliation really depends on a variety of environmental factors. Sometimes we don't get any cold weather all the way till January, sometimes we get a very early "near frost" and it really hurts the leaves. This year a lot of my trees are in the ground as well, not pots, so maybe it will be different for me. It seems that cherimoya really don't like to be that wet when the weather is cold out, or even mild, so if you get a lot of autumn rain it may make it difficult for them. This is a trend in most of the sub-tropicals and tropicals that produce larger fruit, I note.

Being in a greenhouse I think you won't have any issues at all!

Yield from a tree depends greatly on the size and the amount you are able to successfully pollinate. You also must choose if you want hundreds of small lower quality fruit or fewer high quality large fruit. If it's my personal tree, not for production, I would always pick large high quality fruit (to an extent, they do get kind of mealy or prone to stem rot if they are too big). I have seen large trees produce hundreds of pounds.

My trees start to mildly flower pretty much right out of dormancy, they maybe peak around June / July in flower production, and then resume having sporadic flowers like Spring for autumn.

I cannot speak to certain varieties production, only their fruit quality, and I like El Bumpo a lot.

8
Really cool collection for your area! You must be the best collector in Bulgaria.

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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: californian cherimoya
« on: September 03, 2021, 10:59:19 AM »


France has plenty of 9b in the south, even some in the north on the ocean. Cherimoya are totally fine outdoors in these pink areas on the map.

When it goes below 60f, the fruit tends to not turn out as nice. You shouldn't rely on getting fruit through the winter in your location. In my 9b location here in CA, the fruit that hangs onto the tree through winter tends to not be super sweet or large and often times gets mold if it rains too much. If you have a large and productive tree (push it hard with fertilizer during the growing season) it will probably have enough energy to finish off early season fruit if you thin them.

That photo above with the tons of fruits in it isn't smart for how large that tree is. Better to get 3-4 large and successful fruit than have 50 tiny ones that hang around all winter. I pollinate as much possible then I'll thin them to the best ones.

You will get fruit at 100f, no problem. Same temp as me for summer. I don't think you can really choose a variety that is consistently early bearing - it's more than you only pollinate the early flowers and not the later ones.

For me, the best cherimoya fruits are the earliest ones pollinated in Spring and eaten early winter, or the ones which were pollinated very late and you eat in February - May. I think they benefit from heat units of which there are not many in winter!

Cherimoyas grow many leaves which protect the fruit on super hot sunny days. They will get sunburnt at 110f if the tree does not have enough foliage to cover the fruit. For this reason I think it's wisest to pull fruit sets when the tree is small - let it focus on growing big and strong first. All my cherimoya, atemoya, anonna in general perform just fine in 110, there is no "best" but I am not a collector like the other guys on here so they'll know better.

Also re defoliation, I think you would need to be in 10a for them to not totally defoliate in winter. I have some really ugly leaves still in March, but I pick them off when the tree is getting back to growing season.

10
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Show off your greenhouses
« on: September 01, 2021, 07:04:23 PM »
Although slightly unrelated, this seems like a good thread to ask this question: Has anyone here had luck with a passively heated greenhouse? I'm toying with the idea of building a greenhouse, but the thought of an electric greenhouse heater makes me shy away from the idea, just due to the cost of using one.

So many variables. With decent insulation and sealing and depending on how tender your plants are, how your sunlight is at your site, how much mass inside the greenhouse that holds heat etc it may not be that important to have a heater or the need run it a lot. In 9b I only needed it for 3 nights. Maybe I spent an extra $20 in electricity at most. In 7b maybe you would need to run it 40-50 nights to keep even tropicals happy.

11
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: californian cherimoya
« on: September 01, 2021, 05:57:03 PM »
Pierce is a great tasting variety and early season. Your spacing is sufficient at 7M, but the fruit will likely require hand pollination, especially if in a dry greenhouse, but the misting system could help here. Cherimoyas like a cooler summer and milder winter than what you have, but should be able to manage the extremes if protected/given a nice microclimate. That said, my atemoyas fared much better on the 40+ degree days, even grafted to the same tree. I think it's a great idea for you to experiment with cherimoyas, Pierce is a real winner.
thank you for your answer. when you say milder winter, what is for you the minimum suitable temperature during night winter ?
when I talk about 1C during night winter, it is not each winter days, very often I have 5/6C during night winter, 1C it's only few days each winter.

That sounds like my 9b weather here in CA, around 1000m elevation. You should be fine with cherimoya. It will defoliate in the winter but come back very strong in Spring.

At my house it goes to -3 or -4c fairly often.

12
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Hunt for the best Surinam Cherry
« on: September 01, 2021, 01:18:50 PM »
My grafted vermillion is into heavy flowering time. Looking like a great yield for this fall crop. Had a mild spring crop but birds knocked them all off.

13
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Show off your greenhouses
« on: August 31, 2021, 05:19:38 PM »
Nice one Jaboticaba45, I like it. If you were to double layer the greenhouse plastic that would help you, but polycarbonate is definitely going to be the best bet. It should get you some decent improvements in temp retention if you get the double or triple layer stuff.

14
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Show off your greenhouses
« on: August 31, 2021, 02:03:54 PM »
All your greenhouses are beautiful and what I dream of building when I have my own property. For now I went budget but its holding up to strong winds, hail, and a skim of about 2 of granular hail build up.

Mine has two gable fans that are automated to turn on at 84f and it has 50% shade cloth for summer which Ill remove for winter. It gives me about 10f of protection on a good hot day in the winter and maintains that gain overnight. Only needed a supplemental heater for a few nights last winter.










15
I had some bands of racoons causing problems but they moved on after a neighbor killed one with a .22

I'll shoot them on sight if they come back but then I do live pretty rural and it's normal to hear a gunshot here or there. These days I set up deer enforcer since that's the pest du jour and it's keeping them at bay, I would think raccoons are too stubborn and wouldn't be scared off by a little water.

16
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Pineapple thread
« on: August 25, 2021, 12:40:55 AM »
Sometimes they get floppy.  When you transplant them, go deeper.  Remove some leaves and plant lower into the final pot.  Use a big bamboo to prop the plant and tie the fruit to when it comes or it can flop over.

They're already in 7g square pot, so I'm not sure I want to risk it. They're crushing it and growing fast.

17
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Pineapple thread
« on: August 23, 2021, 01:51:33 PM »
My pineapples from Spaugh are getting huge and look fruiting size but interestingly they're not firmly rooted in the soil? Is this normal?

18
I had a stunning fruit session on my white mulberry and I tipped all the branches and got a weak second fruit session but the fruit wasn't as good at all and most didn't ripen correctly.

At this stage I don't care much about the secondary fruiting and don't think about it, I just trim for aesthetic, airflow, and size control now and if I get more fruit that's cool.

19

Red jaboticaba - $60


White sapote seedlings for grafting $20


Campo Ramon jaboticaba $120


Nelita calycina $60


Branca vinho seedling $30, just up potted to 1g


Eugenia anthropophooga $140, have several


Imbe $20 each, you probably want 3 to make sure you get one F/M


Escarlate (it says yellow, but it's not)


Au Paulista $60


Lemondrop mangosteen seedling $40


Escarlate $40


Sartaneja custard apple seedling $60


Yellow jaboticaba $30, you'll want 2 for cross pollination

20
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Dragon Fruit thread.
« on: August 18, 2021, 11:24:22 AM »
Also one thing I've been doing this year (and seeing fantastic fruit set I think because of it) is that after I pollinate the stigma with my #2 paintbrush, I squish the stigma between my thumb and index finger lightly - this I think helps set the pollen where it needs to go and also it locks it in so that bees can't steal it in the morning. Saw an older fella in the Philippines do this on his farm, he actually collected pollen by hand and didn't even use a paintbrush and he was surrounded by fruit sets so figured there had to be something to it.

Brad, have you ever tried this?

21
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Dragon Fruit thread.
« on: August 18, 2021, 11:16:17 AM »
Yes I hand pollinated it. I read somewhere that the self-fertile varieties have  male part of the flower  very close to the female part so the pollen will brush up against and dust the female part  however the flower I got has a stigma high up while the anthers are so much lower down. Is it possible to have it pollinated despite of it ? or the pollen is just sterile and hand pollination is not going to work?

There is "self-pollinating" in that the stigma is very close to the anthers and it will probably brush up against enough anthers to set fruit with no human or animal interaction. I have had this with my S8 plant where I didn't touch the flower and it set fruit anyways.

There is "self-fertile" that, regardless of the structure of anther/stigma being close or far to each other, if you get pollen into the stigma, it will set fruit. If that happens by bees, bats, or by hand, it will set.

Then finally there is "self-infertile" where, regardless of if pollen enters the tube by hand or otherwise, it will not set a fruit and you need a different cultivar. If you have two self-infertile varieties and use one pollen on the other, it will set fruit, but I personally find I get way better fruit set using self fertile varieties of pollen. This may just be luck.

You won't know till you try, like I said.

22
Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: Restock
« on: August 17, 2021, 01:53:49 PM »
Always the best of the best with excellent service. Amazing list.

23
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Dragon Fruit thread.
« on: August 17, 2021, 12:37:41 PM »
Hi all. I am a newbie to DF. I got a cutting 3 years ago of unknown variety and finally I got a first flower last night. I have to say  it is just gorgeous !  I think that unfortunately it is self-sterile. What do you think?
 


It's pretty much impossible to tell what it is without seeing a fruit set / fruit interior. Give a shot to pollinating it, you won't know till you try.

24
As usual, I've had the best season of service from FLnative. Thanks as always! The best!

25
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Pintangatuba pollination
« on: August 14, 2021, 08:55:41 PM »
I'm finding that leaving them on the counter for 12, 24, or even 36 hours really turns up the sweetness. The last one I left for 36 hours and it was sweet in the pulp but sour in the juice, but overall, well balanced from my tree. I think mimosa and champa have some nice plants with decent genetic lineage. Both of mine are very edible and I look forward to them.

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