The Tropical Fruit Forum

Quote from: countryboy1981 on December 05, 2022, 06:59:14 AM

It may have something to do with age or the ability to hold more fruit.  The more fruit a tree holds onto the smaller the fruit tend to be (at least for me).  The small fruit are sweeter and do not have the issues you are speaking of.  I give the larger satsumas to my chickens to eat.

I have a tree which I thinned the fruits in spring so about 12 of them kept on tree.   They ended up all very big (about 4:1 by volume to normal size) with rough rind, dry and tasteless inside.   I basically through of them out.

I agree with that.  The larger sized fruits are edible but not of great quality.

For anyone in Florida, I have similar but maybe worse summer humidity conditions where I am located but mich colder winter conditions (usually lows in the low 20s a couple nights a year, sometimes lower).  I am looking for at least one variety that is very tolerant against the humidity, heat, and diseases that will produce where I with winter protection.  I have the cold hardy varities and failed with those so I would like to try less cold hardy varities that do not become an enormous tree if anyone has some recommendations.

The problem with ALA is most human bodies do not convert it very well to its usable form:

More specifically, most studies in humans have shown that whereas a certain, though restricted, conversion of high doses of ALA to EPA occurs, conversion to DHA is severely restricted. The use of ALA labelled with radioisotopes suggested that with a background diet high in saturated fat conversion to long-chain metabolites is approximately 6% for EPA and 3.8% for DHA. With a diet rich in n-6 PUFA, conversion is reduced by 40 to 50%. It is thus reasonable to observe an n-6/n-3 PUFA ratio not exceeding 4-6

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/9637947/

Eating ALA with saturated fat enhances the conversion to a usable form.  The problem is most diets are way too high in omega 6's (inflammatory), which reduces the conversion.  This comes from people using seed (vegetable) oils in food preparation.

That's all there is to it?

Dang, great idea to make our own! Considering it's $10+ a liter at Costco, if there's extra fruit falling off the tree!

Have you noticed variations between say Reed and Mexicola etc?

Most store bought avocado oils are either rancid or fake, i.e., cut with poisonous seed oils such as canola, soybean, peanut, or corn oil:

https://youtu.be/X--2YBI-sn4

I am located in the gilf coast of Alabama and was at the beach today.  Upon leaving, about 100+ yards from the Gulf of Mexico I found these wild fruit growing on these plants.  They have an intense berry smell amd are about the soze of a robin egg but I do not know what they are though:

You may want to mulch around your citrus trees with oak leaves to prevent the decline of your trees.

No I saw the tags again at the home depot.  It is mycitrustree.com but it appears the page is no longer active.

There are two mulberry varities available at my local walmart and was wondering if anyone knew which varities these actually are:

"Everbearing" mulberry:

https://chestnuthilltreefarm.com/shop/everbearing-mulberry/

My guess would be dward everbearing they just left off the dwarf?  Or would it be the Illinois everbearing?

"Black" mulberry:

https://chestnuthilltreefarm.com/shop/black-mulberry-2/

It says morus nigra but I doubt they would have a true black mulberry from a Florida grower.

I would recommend eureka or lisbon lemons over meyer.  I would most likely not have a meyer lemon tree if I was able to grow standard lemon varieties in my climate.  Meyer lemons to me have an off taste.  Meyer is a highly productive tree if you like the fruit but I prefer other lemon varieties over meyer.

Does anyone know where to buy the Auburn patented yellow kiwi plants?  The linked retail company went out of business:

https://agriculture.auburn.edu/departments/hort/aukiwifruitvarietiesavailable/

The glen navel is available at madison county citrus online here:

https://madisoncitrusnursery.com/products/glen-naval-orange-trees-for-sale

I was going to tear out my Washington if it did not give me fruit.  It has saved itself by giving me a few fruit but has been outproduced (all time total production) by the glen which has been in the ground 3 less years.

Banking with soil? I’m assuming you are referring to mounding soil up above the graft? My idea was getting a tomato cage to wrap around the trunks and place hay between the cage and tree followed by a wrapping of burlap

That is correct.  Navel oranges are much more cold hardy than they are given credit for after they get some size to them.  My 5+ year old Washington navel takes low 20s without damage even to the leaves.  It is not a great fruit setter though, the Glen Navel sets much more fruit.

I cannot comment as to the hardiness of the artic frost compared to a satsuma as I plantee mine the spring of 2020, but it is more of a cutie sized satsuma.  The peel has a different fragrance but the fruit tastes great.