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Topics - JakeFruit

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Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / WTB/ISO Dupuis avocado scions
« on: January 09, 2023, 11:02:44 AM »
Hoping to buy half a dozen or so of Dupuis, feel free to PM me.


Thanks!

7
I have several trees I've been want to plant all season, but the areas I will be planting in can hold a lot of water when we get our seasonal downpours. Because of that, I'm wanting to plant the trees 1-2' above the ground level, so they'll be able to handle standing water better. I have a huge roll of RootBuilder, what I'm thinking to do is cut 1-2' tall strips of it (with the appropriate ring size) and plant the trees high (something like what member MarkInTexas does in his greenhouse). I'll expand the RootBuilder rings as the trees get taller, eventually I'll try removing the rings and mulching the tree mounds.


So, all that said, my two concerns are the abuse the RootBuilder pots will suffer when the grass around them is cut (riding mowers and weed-eaters will take their toll) AND the aesthetical appearance of the RootBuilder container itself. I've been hoping to stumble upon some durable, flexible-sized plastic/PVC that I can cut to loosely wrap around the RootBuilder to protect it and make the plantings looking more appealing. Anybody have any suggestions? All I can think of (that exists) is finding some of those large food-grade (water-storage) barrels/drums and cutting them to size.

9
I still need to knock one or two varieties off the list to get down to 4, 5 tops, but I think I've targeted the varieties I'll chose from. My criteria was dwarf to low vigor, (moderately) dense canopy vs open/spreading, with at least some resistance to diseases. I'm planning to plant the trees ~12 feet apart along a line between my house and my neighbor. I also want to try and cover the season as best possible.


EARLY
Dwarf Hawaiian


EARLY/MID
Angie
Pickering


MID/LATE
Cotton Candy
Cecilove


LATE
Honey Kiss


I have other trees planned in the yard. I'll have some combination of Orange Sherbet, Sugarloaf, Lemon Zest, Sweet Tart, etc., but I want this hedge to be manageable, fairly reliable varieties.
I'm still open to any suggestions, there were several varieties I strongly considered but couldn't nail down their growth habit or ripening time.

10
Figure us in the Tropical Fruit discussion deal with mosquitos the most. We've been getting drenched lately with the seasonal Florida Gulf Coast weather pattern. I've been catching roof runoff in some huge containers I have; I quickly cover the containers before the rain stops and keep them covered, but it seems a mosquito or two always find their way to lay some eggs in it. I go out at night after a day or two and flash a light in the dark container to spot the little bastards, then I dump it all out when I find some (which is  nearly always).


Anybody know something I could add to the water to kill them, but still be able to use the water on my plants? I know there are larvae-eating minnows people add, but that doesn't work in my situation.

11
I do enjoy reading the annual mango thief stories this time of year; not for the tragedy of the loss, but the continual education in the depths some people will stoop to. I've never had a tree close to the road, and (so far) even the squirrels have left my fruit alone. The bell has not tolled for me thus far, but that's fixing to change.

I'm planning a ~5 tree line between my neighbor's house and mine. I told him I'd take care of everything and share the fruit. Wouldn't you know, he was all for it  ;D
Anyway, so the line will end pretty close to the street; the closest tree will be probably ~15' from the road. Lots of foot and car traffic continually, so I'm sure the trees will attract attention. I'm thinking it would be wise to pick a mango (or two) that stays green when ripe or can be picked green and ripen reliably off the tree.

Hoping some of you could share your favorite green mango(es). Ideally it would be low/medium vigor, but I'm planning to prune aggressively, if needed.

12
A few of my avocadoes are showing similar leaf damage that is concerning me, hoping someone can help me narrow down the cause. Here's what they look like:



I believe these are the potential causes:
  • Florida Sun (sun went from feeling nice on your skin to immediately burning your flesh in the last few weeks)
  • Seasonal Leaf Turnover (Nishikawa is obviously pushing new growth...Day, though, is not and showing similar symptoms)
  • Homemade Compost (could be throwing off the PH, or something like that)
  • Bacterial/Fungal issues

NOTE: the photos were all taken with me facing north, damage is primarily on south-facing leaves.

All trees showing damage just now began getting all-day sun, the house is no longer providing mid-day shade due to sun angle. There are a few older trees not quite in the same location not showing same damage, but they shed their old leaves a month ago (they also received some of the same compost).

The compost has been sitting for well over a year and was baked in the sun for several days prior to adding. It was added as a top dressing to all my citrus, mango, avocado trees, other than one small similar spot on a mango leaf.

As to disease, I sadly had no choice but to conclude I have MBBS. I've been in denial for since last season when I noticed damage on my fruit that I told myself was only anthracnose, but I found multiple leaves covered with damage spots looking like this (the leaves with the most prolific damage are all Kent seedlings):


I've never heard Avocadoes can be afflicted with MBBS, but these are only a few feet away from some of the leaves covered in MBBS. If you look closely, especially at the Day (IMG_5430,jpg), the damage is spotty and has something approaching a halo around some of the damage. Maybe/hopefully it's not MBBS crossing over, but could it be anthracnose?

15
The Piva I grafted in last season didn't grow much, but it flowered around December and one fruit hung on. It's been "leaking" clear sap from around the stem for the last two weeks. I think it was getting close to pickable, but I didn't want to rush it (I was watching for the stem turn brown). Unfortunately, some critter or falling something damaged it just now:


I guess I pick it now, right? The ants & flies will be all after it now.

19
Not sure this video hasn't already been posted here before:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNozLuofoJ4

I approached my neighbor about doing a mango hedge between out properties, splitting the fruit between us; didn't go horribly, so I've been researching a plan. I'm going with 10' spacing, now I just need to come up with the variety/varieties. The area is along the drainage swales, it can get pretty wet during our rainy months (July-ish), I'm thinking early-season varieties would be the best choice.

Anybody doing something similar with a hedge? I wonder how mixing in an avocado tree or two would work.

20
These were labeled as Kaffir Lime seeds, but they do not look anything like what I've seen those seeds/leaves to resemble. There's no citrus smell when the leaves are crushed and they taste more like a lettuce variety.



21
Trying to get ready for this Sunday & Monday, forecasted to be mid/low 30's here overnight. I only have half a dozen or so panicles currently (hopefully that changes after this cold snap), BB-sized fruit on most of them. Is there any use in bagging them or otherwise trying to protect them?

22
I lost nearly all my panicles to Powdery Mildew last year so I'm determined to fight it this year. I've bought Bonide's 90% micronized sulfur, planning on mixing 1.5 tbls of it per gallon of water in a small pump sprayer.
I've watched half a dozen (Har) videos on the topic, I understand the general conditions where PM thrives (70's or lower temps, still/dry conditions, paired with high humidity), but I'm left with a few unanswered questions. I think I'm in danger of PM now, need to spray ASAP; hoping someone can fill me in on the questions

  • What percentage of humidity should I consider as high? I'm looking at 91% tomorrow overnight, does that qualify?
  • I have panicles with open flowers on them currently, is it safe to spray them with sulfur now?
  • Does sulfur deter flies/bees/etc.,? I know not to spray when they are active, just curious if they'll avoid recently sprayed flowers.
  • Would mixing a nutritional spray in be beneficial/harmful? I have some SouthernAg citrus spray I was thinking of using.

Thanks, anybody!

23
My tree, going into its second year of producing fruit (last year only one small branch on the tree flowered), has panicles pushing on numerous branches now. Unfortunately, one branch is pushing a very strong/large vegetative flush. I'm wondering if that growth will take energy away from the fruit development and should be removed (by either breaking off the new shoots or trimming off the branch ends). Anybody have any past experience with a situation like this?

The branch is near the center of the tree and as tall as the tallest branches around it. If I allow it to proceed while everything around it flowers, it will become the dominant branch (needing heavy trimming eventually, in any case). The tree is already as tall and wide as I want it to be, I just want it to fruit now.

24
I made what turned out to be a delicious Indian curry over the weekend; the recipe called for fresh fenugreek leaves which I couldn't find locally, so substituted the fenugreek leaves with celery leaves. In my search to find them locally, I learned fenugreek grows well here in Florida and is also a nitrogen-fixer. Has anybody on here in Florida grown it? Any guesses on how well it would work as a ground cover?

It sounds intriguing, only gets ~2' tall vs pigeon pea and others that get much taller. I really like the idea of using something that has additional benefits, as opposed to something like perennial peanut. The drawbacks I read were it's need for well-draining soil and it has susceptibility to powdery mildew and white flies. Also doesn't sound like it has a very long growing season, so I'll need to work something else in with it to keep the weeds from overtaking the area.

25
My understanding is there will need to be new stem/branch growth following any pruning before I can expect a panicle from said stem/branch, so any new growth I see directly after pruning cannot be flowers. Is that the correct understanding?

My Lemon Zest branch prompting the question is below. It was pruned just a little late and is pushing currently. Iím telling myself thereís no way itíll be panicles, but the growth looks so promisingÖ


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