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Topics - Orkine

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51
Tropical Fruit Discussion / How to plant in fill dirt
« on: August 13, 2020, 12:02:27 PM »
I had some part of my yard filled recently with several loads of fill dirt (Number 1 I believe).
New space for a few new trees, Yay.  Now what do I need to do to be able to plant in the area.
I understand that what I got was dirt not top soil.  I believe this type of soil is no good for plants and will need to be improved.  What can I do to prepare a few sites for trees.

The characteristics of fill dirt as I have heard are high salts, low nutrients, low organics (maybe none).  The soil drains relatively well, a plus.

I am willing to do prep now and plant later, any suggestions?


PS.  I will like to get the biology going so suggestions along those lines welcome.  Biochar, compost inplace or importing compost ....


52
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Question for the experts in the room
« on: May 30, 2020, 01:29:36 PM »
I did several atemoya grafts this year with some degree of success.  Some of the grafts sent flowers and vegetative growth and couple of the flowers set fruit.  The root stock is a 3 or 4 year old plant in a pot.  Should I let these new grafts hold the fruit or should I remove the fruits.  So far the ones that have done this have only 1 fruit on the branch and they have had two vegetative 2 flushes.
Would you let a spring raft hold fruit in the same year under any condition?

I have one Lisa that went crazy.  It has had 4 cycles (note I didn't say flushes ) because the growth is from different buds on the scion at different times.  With each push, it sent flowers and it set fruit on each so now it has 3 fruits growing on a spring 2020 graft.  I expect I will pinch off 1 or 2 of these if it does not do it itself.
 

53
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Passing on a lesson learned
« on: May 30, 2020, 01:23:04 PM »
When you graft CHerimoya onto pond apple to use as interstock, graft as close to the main trunk as you can on the branch you pick.

I did a few grafts where I went further away from the trunk to find a point where the root stock and my scion matched in diameter.  I got successful takes and the cherimoya is growing vigorously. The cherimoya is growing so much faster than the pond apple and the branches are sagging.  If I let things go I expect a couple of them will snap.  I may have to stake them up and hope they gain enough strength to hold on to the grafted plants.  I don't plan on grafting on the cherimoya until next spring but at this rate I may have to try in the fall.

So for others doing this, consider grafts close to the trunk or alternatively cut and do a bark graft on the trunk instead of grafting on the branches.  You can then graft on the cherimoya branches.





54
I have a couple of mango trees and a recovering avocado tree, all mature, that I may need to move 10 to 15 feet.
Unfortunately they are holding fruit which I assume I will lose.  They are also multi variety grafted trees so heavy pruning will likely involve removing some varieties completely.

First is it possible with the correct equipment to move a 15 to 20 year old tree with the trunk a foot across (only 1 of those)
Is the best practice to trench around the tree and let it grow some new roots before digging it out
I have other mangos, and I don't mind grafting the varieties all over again, is it better to remove the old tree and restart with seedlings?
Avocado with trunk 8 inch across, can that size cado be moved?

Kindly share your thoughts.

55
I saw a recent video where Har mentioned clear shinny beads of sweat on K3 (Kathy as a means of telling when they are mature and can be picked.
Is this always the case or are there more definite signs to look out for?

56
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Important question on grafting annonas
« on: March 29, 2020, 10:12:43 AM »
I have done many cycles of annona grafting with results that are not worth writing hoe about.  This spring though has been outstanding for me (sure average for many folks) and I'd like to keep it taht way, so I am asking for help on a few things.

First, when do you untie the union?  I didn't have the real buddytape so I used a grafting tape I got on Amazon, less stretchy and doubled over so it could be tied snug.  I am concerned that it will girdle my graft if I don't cut it off or untie it.  I have had some grafts on for almost a month now and they have pushed, some for less and they have also pushed.  One or two gave the headfake of a push then stalled.  My question is how long should I leave the union tied?

Second, it has been unusually dry in my region and with new growth on the grafts should I be wetting the plant?  My grafts are on older trees (2 to 4 years old) and pushing spring growth on other branches I didn't graft to.  Were it not for the grafts I wouldn't even be thinking of wetting a couple of these plants, I will of course wet the ones in pots.  My question is should I be wetting a grafted plant that has started to push and how much?

Lastly, I have no plans to fertilize these plants anytime soon.  Is this a best practice or should I be feeding them now and what with? Nitrogen rich fertilizer, a dressing of home made compost?

I will appreciate any feedback and thanks in advance.

57
First I have heard and read that Cherimoya don't do well in FLorida.  I am not disputing this and I fully agree.  I am happy with its role as rootstock or interstock for pond apple.

That said, I am curious and want to understand why this is the case.
Can someone point me to a good source of information on this subject.  I want to be as educated as I can been this topic which has been very intriguing to me.  Is it light, temperature moisture, all of the above, none of the above.

Point me to where I can learn, not about growing Cherimoya, but about why it is not suited for South Florida.

Thanks

58
I pruned one tree and will be pruning a couple more in the next few days,
I have a few scions of Birula, and soon a few of African Pride and Pinks Mammoth that I can trade for other atemoya or ilama (or other annona that does well in FL).  I will take an IOU for later this year or next spring if you don't have scions now.

PM me if you are interested, or if you have something else that you will like to give in trade.

Sorry I can't ship international.


59
Tropical Fruit Discussion / My first season of Atemoya fruits
« on: March 01, 2020, 06:09:06 PM »
Here are pictures of the first fruiting from Birula.




What I thought was a Pinks Mammoth, not so sure it is.  Can anyone confirm this looks like a Pinks? Almost looks more like a Calostro image JF posted a year or two ago.  Anyway, I like the fruit and want to know what it is.



This is the AP. 



One last thing, is White an Cherimoya or atemoya?  I grafted it as interstock between Pond Apple and Atemoya and it did well.  I cut it back to prepare to graft on Atemoya and if is throwing a few flowers.  Just curious, should I take them off off or let them compete for resources with my grafts?

60
I am interested in building my cado collection. 
I want to graft Nishikawa and Superhass onto two two plus year-old trees that I have (1 in a pot and 1 in the ground).
PM me if you have some.


61
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Jackfruit - young flower getting mold
« on: February 25, 2020, 11:21:02 PM »
I planted a Jackfruit that flowered for the first time last year and lost all 3 flowers (at different times) the same way, they got moldy and fell off.
It has flowered again this year and the first flower again got mold and fell off.
I looked it up and I am thinking perhaps Jackfruit Rhizopus rot.  I didn't remove the old flowers that dropped and I let some weeds grown under the tree.
If it is Jackfruit Rhizopus rot, does anyone have experience with this and how to manage it,  Also any best practices for fruiting Jackfruit.

62
Tropical Fruit Discussion / How do I save flooded plants
« on: August 26, 2019, 08:05:26 PM »
Got this freak rain that has many of my plant in a low part of my yard under water.
It gets wet there but this time there is standing water at least 1 to 2 feet deep depending on where in the yard the plants are.
I don't have anything in the ground (except pond apples) in the deepest area (I knew that area flooded) but I have some large potted plants.
Some plants are in the ground in or close to the shallow parts and are either waterlogged or in a few inches of standing water.

The flooding is from a canal behind my house which overtopped its bank spilling into my yard plus my runoff that has nowhere to drain to until the canal levels are lowered.  Unfortunately, hundreds of acres drain tinto the same canal and it will take time to drain the entire basin so I expect things will be wet or soggy for a few days.

What are my options.

I can move the smaller pots to higher ground.
The huge pots are way too heavy to move and I expect roots have grown into the ground locking then in place.  If I absolutely had to, I may be able to rig something up to pull these to slightly higher areas.

I have no clue what I can do to the inground plants.

All suggestions are welcome.

plants:
Potted: pineapple, dragon fruit, atemoya on cherimoya rootstock, guanabana, mango and longan
In ground: mango, jackfruit, dragon fruit, miracle fruit.




63
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Let ripen or pick it
« on: July 17, 2019, 09:43:26 PM »
I have what I now believe is a Lemon Zest (see link below) protected in strawberry pack still hanging on the tree.  Should I let it ripen on the tree or should I pick it once I believe it is close and let it ripen in my garage.  It is the first fruit (and only fruit) from this tree and I want to get it before the racoons do. 

http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=32422.msg356012#msg356012

I can post another picture if it helps.

64
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Please help ID these plants
« on: June 30, 2019, 07:36:17 PM »
I had 2 friends send me photographs of plants they were curious to ID.
I couldn't help ID either but felt someone on the forum may be able to help.


This photo above is of a small seedling is all I have of this plant.  Any idea what this plant could be?
The plant is in the West Palm Beach area in Florida.

The pictures below are also from Florida and show a tree, its leafs and fruits.  Can anyone tell me what this plant is?



65
My kid did a science fair experiment on impact of N, P and/or K on growth in a hydroponic system.
His experiment is done and I have a few pounds of Urea and triple super phosphate left.
I dont mix fertilizers, I leave that to Har and other pros.
I do want to know how to get the most benefit from these.
I plant mangos, lychees, citrus, guava, jack fruit, garcinia, avocado, loquat, peppers, annonas, bananas and others.
I saw a post that recommends Urea in low doses as a foliar spray or drench.  Is this a good use of what I have left?  Which plants benefit from extra Nitrogen which want no part of it?

Any suggestions are welcome.

66
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Best course of action - replacing dead Avocado
« on: February 09, 2019, 01:46:43 PM »
I lost two avocado trees last years.  The first I thought was storm damage, the second was a mystery.
Assuming the worst, death by Laurel Wilt, what do I need to do if I still want to grow avocado in my yard?

I did some research online that suggests that I can remove and replant to avocado.  Has anyone done this and is this a viable option?

My preference will be to use the same site for avocado and I have some grafted plants in a pot ready to be put in the ground.  I intend to head dirt on the spot to make a raised mound about a foot higher than grade and about 4 to 6 feet across to plan the new tree and I intend to place mulch 3 to 6 inches on the raised mound.  Does this do me any good?

The alternative is that I plant something else at this location, atemoya or soursop, find a new location for my cado.  The other sites I have will require a bigger mound but has never been planted to avocado.

Will appreciate any suggestions or personal experience coming back after laurel wilt.

PS.  I don't think it is laurel wilt but I want to make sure in case it is I give my new cado the best shot.





67
I have a tree I am topworking in thirds.  The tree itself is a well established Tommy that I purchased from the Home Depot (I believe) years ago when I first started planting mangos.

I grafted on the third I took of this year.  These are recent grafts within the past couple of months.

One of the grafts pushed a month or so ago and I thought was about to flush for a second time.  Surprise, it looks like it is flowering.

My question is, should I let let it hold fruit?

I have not seen this happen to any of my other grafts, they flush a few times before they finally start flowering
Were this on a seedling I know I will remove the flower or let it set fruit and then cut off the panicle. 
On a big tree, do I have to do the same or can I let it hold fruit?

I have seen posts from California where first year grafts flowering is not unusual, can Simon or someone familiar with this situation please share experiences?

68
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Help my Avocado is dying
« on: August 26, 2018, 06:17:12 PM »
I had two avocado trees.
Irma and an earlier storm knocked one around.  Twice I had to upright it after it was blown down.
Earlier this year it started to lose leaves and deteriorate and eventually died.
I attributed it to significant root loss due to having been knocked down twice.

My other tree was doing great.  It is an Oro Negro and is holding fruit.
In the last two weeks it has started looking poorly. The leaves are not vigorous and green and are wilting.  Some branches are turning brown and dying back.  This is how the other tree died and I am beginning to think this was not about root damage.

Please take a look at these pictures and tell me if there is any way I can save this tree.





In case it helps, it has been very hot.  Rain has not been unusual, heat has been a factor, it has been very hot and the tree is in full sun.

69
7 out of 10 Beverly mango I cut this year had the seed growing with the root out of the husk and in the flesh of the mango.

The fruits were still green when I picked them.  They have been on the plant for a while but still firm to the touch and green.

Did I leave the fruits on too long?  Should I have picked earlier? 

Please share your experience with late season fruits having developed roots in them.

70
Tropical Fruit Discussion / How do you label Choc Anon
« on: August 17, 2018, 12:07:50 PM »
My Choc Anon defied all labels this year.
It had a monster fruit set from 3 different flushes and still has fruits on the tree.
I was having choc anaon with Carrie early in the season.  My Keith and Beverly are coming off the tree and I still have Choc Anon.
Is this typical or an anomaly?

I know some of you don't like the fruit, I thought it was fantastic all year long.  Even early when most fruits were watered down.
Setting what you think about the fruit aside, my question is how long it has been producing.  From May and still with a few fruits on mid August.  Despite the squirrels and birds getting a cut.  Rabbits and Raccoons too.

71
I rescued an unknown plant last November, identified it on this site as an Ackee.  (http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=25919.msg302424#msg302424)
It is nursed back to health but I have no space for it in my yard and would like to find it a good home.

Any takers?  Pick ups only please, cant ship.  Its in a 3 gallon pot.  Nice plant.  Will post a picture later.

Going 2

72
I rescued an unknown plant last November, identified it on this site as an Ackee.  (http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=25919.msg302424#msg302424)
It is nursed back to health but I have no space for it in my yard and would like to find it a good home.

Any takers?  Pick ups only please, cant ship.  Its in a 3 gallon pot.  Nice plant.  Will post a picture later.

73
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Plant ID -. Are these Canistels
« on: August 12, 2018, 08:33:39 AM »
Got these from a friend who planted seeds a while ago.
He believes they were Canistels.
The leaves do look similar but not the same as a Canistels that I have. 
Can anyone help ID these.
There are 3 plants in a pot, just multiple photos.


74
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Should I let choc anon yellow on the tree
« on: June 16, 2018, 06:18:25 PM »
I think my choc anon is ready to pic.  It has not yellowed yet but my guests, birds, squirrels rabbit and raccoons have started taking their share.
What they leave behind yellows nicely in a day on the ground and is nicely colored on the inside.

Should I pick the fruit green for the best taste or let yellow on the plant?

75
Need some help and information.
I am in Florida and it has been particularly rainy.
Last time I applied copper int he evening it rained during the night and all day the next day.  I did not know if I should have reapplied immediately, kept my schedule or reapply but after a week or so.

What is your strategy for fungicide application when it rains every day?

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