Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - Epicatt2

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Sprouting Abius . . .
« on: October 29, 2020, 09:51:49 PM »
Received abiu seeds from Vernmented (Thanx, Josh!) about ten days ago.  Planted them right away in a 5-gal. black nursery pot that had been cut down to half-tall.

Planted five seeds in the pot and covered them with about one inch of potting soil (using my 1:1:1 recipe), then watered the soil lightly and left the pot alone in a warm, mostly shaded area.

One seed germinated 7 days ago and is already about 4-inches tall.  Two more poked up about three days ago and they are both now about 3-inches tall.  The other two seeds have not yet made their appearance.  (Fingers X-ed!)

The soil in the pot is only about six or seven inches deep so I am wondering how soon I will need to move up these recently germinated seedlngs into larger pots because I recently read on TFF that abius grow rather fast and therefore need space for their roots.  So how soon would a move be recommended and into how large a pot on the first move up?

Suggestions?  Advice?


Paul M.

Sterilizing seeds using H2O2

What concentration of H2O2 should be used in water to sterilize tropical fruit seeds before planting them?

Usually we don't need a great amount of water for soaking seeds, so is it drops per cup?  How many?

Is it a different amount (less or more) of peroxide recommended for seeds of different tropical fruits?

And also, how long should/can the seeds stay in the solution?

As a partial example, I have the following seeds that I will be wanting to plant soon: abiu; bael fruit; ilama; sugar apple & a couple other annona species; etc.

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.


Paul M.

Has anyone in an urban situation had problems growing or fruiting any of your tropical fruit trees due to a street light or other ongoing light intrusion overnight that shines in/on your yard or growing area?

In your experience do any particular species of your fruit trees seem to be noticeably affected by lights shining on them all night long?

Just got curious after thinking about this situation which probably happens a lot to many of us who are growing tropical fruit trees in our urban yards.

Paul M.

Quote from: CTMIAMI
. . . . most of the so called cold hardy avocados are not really that good.


You got me to wondering with your remark above.

If, as you say, cold hardy avocados are not the tastiest, which of the cold hardy cultivars would you recommend as being the more tasty selections.

BTW the one I have is a 'Mexicola Grande' and it is about twelve feet tall now after being close to three years in the ground.

It bloomed profusely last year and set one fruit which fell off after it got ripe and we did not notice it 'til it was on the ground too long.  This season it bloomed well again but set no fruit.  I have read that this is a type A avocado and thus self-fertile, so where was the fruit?

Maybe it needs a vecino to encourage it to set more fruit.  Anyway, still curious to know y'all's thoughts on cold hardy avocado cultivars.


Paul M.

Just snagged two more Annona species and am wondering if there's anyone here in zone 9b who's growing them successfully. Mine are both in 1 gallon pots right now but could be moved up to larger ones soon.

One is Annona montana, the mountain soursop.

The other is (supposedly) an A. squamosa type called 'Costa Rica Golden Sugar Apple' or the 'Pineapple Annona'.

Maybe TFF menber Zoli in Costa Rica knows something about this CR Golden Sugar Apple.

I keep hearing that both these species are generally mediocre tasting but that once in a while one may run across an okay tasting one. Perhaps this could have to do with the sort of culture that they are given which might make the occasional individual better tasting than others.


Paul M.

Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / WTB: Sapodilla 'Butterscotch' . . . .
« on: October 07, 2020, 03:50:10 AM »
Anyone on here know who maybe has got this cultivar for sale right now?

Would like to find something maybe 2 to 3 years old.

Would hope for a seller in the west central Florida area, but not limited to there.


Paul M.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Abiu seeds - Just planted . . .
« on: October 03, 2020, 03:30:18 AM »
Gentle TFF Members,

I understand that Abiu seeds are very shortlived and need to be planted immediately, about two inches deep.

But how should the seeds be oriented in the soil? 


Vertically with one end up; which end?

I'm sure someone on here will know.


Paul M.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Should I be shaping my 3 mangoes in 7 gal pots?
« on: September 25, 2020, 10:06:39 AM »

Sorry for all the QQs but please bear with me; I'm just now starting with a few mangoes.

So... Just got to wondering if it would be unproductive (or not) to start prunng/shaping my 3 mangoes which are all in 7 galllon pots right now.

I have 'Irwin', 'IceCream', and 'Beverly' and the first two are about four to five feet tall in their pots.  The 'Beverly' just arrived (in a 3 gal pot) and was potted up into a 7 gal just this week, but it is about six feet tall without any branching.

The 'Ice Cream' was already pruned when received and had made four or five branches from the top which are now about 10 inches long.  Those side branches could/should prolly be thinned to 3 or 4  and clipped soon to promote further branching.

But how to treat the other two is my question.  Should the 'Beverly' be cut back to three or four feet tall once it has a few weeks to establish in its new 7 gal pot?  Or would cutting it back now help to encourage new root growth?

The 'Irwin' has made one 'branch' from where it had already been pruned when received.  That single branch is about one foot tall now.  Should that be cut back to that previous pruning to try to get the main axis to make more than one branch?

Sorry for all the questions but, as I said, I'm new with mangoes and just learning the ropes with them.  I understand that if they are going to be kept dwarfed (or 'condoed', as it were) then they need to be pruned and shaped to be wider than tall, for the most part.

And how long should they stay in the 7 gal pots?  Would they be better in 10 gals, eventually?

Looking forward to suggestions or advice for how/when to proceed.


Paul M.
Tampa, FL
Zone 9b

Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / deleted
« on: September 25, 2020, 10:04:42 AM »

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Feijoa: Chilling hours required to fruit?
« on: September 23, 2020, 11:19:18 PM »
I am wondering if there's anyone in this group might be growing and successfully fruiting Feijoa in Zone 9b.

I've now started to hear that the feijoa (pineapple guava) Acca sellowiana actually needs a few chiliing hours to be able to successfully set fruit, but am not sure how many hours would be required nor how cold. 

It also may be possible that there are some particular cultivars of this species which require no chilling hours to fruit.  So, have any of the members in Zone 9b had regular success fruiting this species?  Any particular cultivar(s) of it?

I have wanted to grow this species here in Tampa but if it going to need more chilling hours than we get in Tampa then I will choose something else. 

Fingers X-ed!

Paul M.

With all the discussion on here  about (certain) mangoes having polyembryonic seeds I am now wondering what other tropical fruit tree species might have polyembryonic seeds.

How about Pouterias, in particular P. viridis?

Does this happen with Annonas?

Or with other commonly-grown tropical fruit species? Is there a list of these somewhere?

Paul M.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / ADVICE: Can I prune my 'Mexicola Grande' now?
« on: September 10, 2020, 11:20:27 PM »
Gentle TFF Members,

Can I prune my 'Mexicola Grande' now, in September?

It has been in the ground for 3-1/2 years and has gone from 3 feet to now about 16 feet tall, maybe a bit taller.  I had intended to keep it pruned it down to about eight to ten feet tall and allow it to spread horizontally for ease of harvesting (a la Dr. Campbell), but it's gotten away from me.

It may be too late in the year now to prune it so far back, but if I don't it will just be that much taller by this coming spring.  Can I do it now or should I wait 'til after the next blooming season?

It bloomed profusely in Spring 2018 but only set one fruit.  This past Spring 2019 it did not bloom at all. It receives citrus fertilizer about every 3 to 4 months.

So what do the avocado mavens on TFF recommend, please?

Comments, suggestions please.


Paul M.

Wondering if there are any dwarf or semi-dwarf varieties of things like rose apple, etc. that are cold hardy in zone 9b.

I don't have space for a full sized tree, but would like to try one if it can be maintained smaller.

Would prefer something 10 to 12 ft tall that is not also full of spines.

Any suggestions welcome.

Paul M.

I've noticed that some photos and texts show two types of fruit on pitangatuba (Eugenia selloi) different plants.  One has spherical fruit and the other has oval shaped fruit. The oval one is purportedly less tart than the spherical one. 

In addition, there seem to be two types of leaves on these two 'races', if indeed that's what they are. One has glossy/shiney leaves with a crinkly surface and the other's leaves have a smooth matte finish, but I don't know which is which since I have plants with both types of leaves but which are all too small to fruit yet.

Does anyone on here have any further information which could corroborate that there may be two distinct races of pitangatuba based upon the descriptions I posted above? This would help in making a decision for which to choose when purchasing this species.

Just curious . . .

Paul M.

Anyone on here able to point me to someone who is currently selling either citron or preferably Etrog trees?

Would like one to be able to grow the fruit to use to perfume the house with.

So far my onlne searches have netted nothing.


Paul M.

Have seen it discussed on here that mature mangoes don't benefit from fertilizers containing a lot of nitrogen since doing that encourages vegetative/leaf growth instead of fruiting.

And it was also mentioned that when these trees are very small one can get away with giving them some nitrogen to sort of jump-start them.

So . . .  Up 'til how old or how tall can/should you give young mango trees any nitrogen?

Enquiring minds and all that rot . . .

Paul M.

Wondering whether there are any nurseries in Florida selling native Florida Asimina species.  I've been looking for some but without any luck so far.

I'm interested in trying a couple of those species which can produce small but edible fruit here in zone 9b. 

These native Asimina species, some of which range well into the south areas of Florida do produce edible fruit contrasted with Asimna triloba the (typical northern pawpaw) which is reported to be reluctant to regularly set any fruit here in 9b because we don't have enough chilling hours for it.

I'm hoping someone here on the Forums may know someplace that's offering them.

Fingers X-ed!

Paul M.

Citrus General Discussion / Giant Finger Lime QQs . . .
« on: July 25, 2020, 03:08:54 PM »
I bought a Giant Fingerlime from Briteleaf about a year ago and when I asked about it they explained that it is a sport from a regular green fingerlime that was stock which originally came from Gainesville as a green fingerlime.  Gainseville's stock unbeknownst to them had mutated so they had been selling it as the regular green fingerlme without realizing it had sported. None of  their cuttings had fruited yet so they did not know there was a difference.  Gainesville destroyed all the sported stock once they realized it was not the regular fingerlime any longer.

But Briteleaf kept theirs and, at first  thinking that it was probably an unknown hybrid of something crossed with a green fingerlime, marketed it as a 'giant fingerliime'.  Of course we now know that is was a sport.

The fruit on mine looks like little pointy-ended footballs but I haven't learned how to know when the fruit are ripe and ready to pick because they remain quite hard.

So at last my question:
Is anyone here on the TFF growing this (Briteleaf) Giant Fingerlime and has figured out how to know when the fruit is ripe?


Paul M.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Wetter-Sticker for BT . . .
« on: July 17, 2020, 05:10:41 AM »
A couple of my young citrus trees have been very popular with the Florida Swallowtail this year and their caterpillars managed to strip off about half the leaves before I noticed them.  So I want to spray the trees with BT (Bacillus thuringiensis), and I'd like to us a wetter-sticker with it.

Not sure how the BT will react to something like a couple drops of Dawn Liquid but then got to wondering whether I could use a tiny bit of molasses instead.  Think that might provide enough sticking effect even if very well diluted and prolly wouldn't hurt the BT organism.  (Of course I wouldn't want to use so much molasses that it would encourage sooty mold; just enough that it would break the surface tention of the water.)

Or maybe there is no need to use a wetter-sticker with BT.

Comments?  Suggestions?


Paul M.

Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / WTB: Pink-fleshed ilama cultivar
« on: July 14, 2020, 12:53:41 AM »
[Sorry, accidentally posted this to the Discussion group. Deleted and re-posted here. Mea culpa.]

Does anyone on the board here know of a nursery or grower, preferably in central- or west central Florida who has pink-fleshed ilama cultivars for sale in 3- or 5-gallon pots –AND who can ship to the Tampa area? The couple of nurseries in Florida that offer this cultivar indicate that they do not ship, unfortunately.

Would prefer either 'Genova Red' or 'Pajapita'.


Paul M.

Can't recall where I read it but Biribá (Rollinia deliciosa) is supposed to produce fruit once the tree gets to be around 5- or 6-ft tall.

With that in mind what's a decent sized pot for fruiting to occur?  Five gallon?  Seven gallon?  Or . . . ?

I'll want to keep mine small enough that it can be moved inside when temperatures which would be distresing to it are expected to occur.  But of course I'll want the tree to be large enough to be able to produce a few fruit.

Comments?  Suggestions?


Paul M.

Are there any Forums members in or near Concord, NC, who are growing cold resistant tropical fruit there?

I have a friend there whom I'm trying to encourage to grow some fruit in their yard but I'm not totally sure what will survive there.  They live in the old section of Concord.

I have suggested to my friend a few things I think would succeed there: Pawpaws, Feijoas, Figs, Maypop (P. incarnata), and for citrus Yuzu and Satsumas.  I also suggested that a short-season banana cultivar might be doable. (BTW, my friend is not interested in grapes.)

Hoping for some input from any Forums member who lives in that area who'll confirm that some of the plants on my short list above are prolly suitable outdoors for 7b and who perhaps may even be able to suggest some other things that they might be having success growing there.


Paul M.

Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Dwarf mango cultivars . . .
« on: June 27, 2020, 02:55:09 AM »
Whoops, sorry.  This was meant to post to the disccussion board.  Moderator please move it.

I finally broke down and bought two mangoes recently.  They are both dwarf varieties.  My understanding is that they can be kept small enough (6 to 8 feet) and still provide me with some fruit.  I'm in zone 9b so they will have to be kept in pots in case of extreme cold when they would need to be put into a greenhouse that can be heated.

The two cultivars are 'Ice Cream' and 'Irwin' (aka 'Egg of the Sun'), both touted as good for central Florida and not so tender to the cold as some other mangoes. Both of these are about 3-feet tall right now and I potted them into 7 gal. pots.  The 'Ice Cream' was already pugged at about 2-feet when it arrived and had grown three or four branches since.  That seems all well and good.

The 'Irwin', also in a 7 gal, has one central axis, never pugged and has just broken a cluster of tiny leaves at the apex.  It needs to be pugged but I think I should wait for it to establish for another month maybe two, before cutting it.  Leaving it about two feet tall sounds like it ought to be okay.  Yes?  It's not too late in the growing season yet to do that is it?

So, do my intentions for the treatment of these two cultivars seem doable and/or practical?  Or am I wasting my time with them and should have chosen some other cultivar?

Comments?  Suggestions?


Paul M.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Cinnamomum zeylanicum –when to pug?
« on: June 25, 2020, 02:38:32 PM »
Hello All,

My Cinnamomum zeylanicum was recently moved up from a 2-1/2-inch pot into a 4-inch pot and is now about 10-inches tall and seems to like being in the larger pot.  It has been growing more rapidly now plus a small growth has emerged from the potting soil next to it about two inches away.

So, is this species known to send up adventitious growths from its roots?  What's coming up is only about 3-inches tall right now but has the same veination on its leaves as the taller plant.

Also, does this species benefit from removing the apical tip to encourage branching?  If so how tall should it be allowed to get first?  It will be a potted specimen since zone 9b might prove too cold for it from time to time.

So far I havent been able to locate much of anything pro or con about pugging this species.  Any helpful references in print out there about this species?

Comments?  Suggestions?


Paul M.

Hi All,

I was recently able to get several plants of Ugni molinae (Chilean Guava) from a nursery in NC.  Plants arrived in good condition, about 14- to 16-inches tall and are still healthy-lookng but seem to be quite slow growing.

I have them in about 60% shade under a pergola that's covered over with Petrea volubilis (Queen's Wreath) in 1 gal pots and they are growing but rather slowly.  Maybe that is too much shade but not sure how much of our strong summer sunshine they wlll tolerate here in Florida.

Not sure if they tolerate wet feet, either, but also I have a number of tropicals (ferns & orchids) under the pergola and those get misted frequently and watered some about every other day –or sometimes daily when it's hot and no rain is forecast.

Does the above sound like a suitable situation for these U. molinae?  I know they grow in a temperate to coolish situation in S. America where it can often be damp.

Hoping that someone else here in FL/9b might be succeeding with this species and can remark on their own experiences growing them.


Paul M.

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4
SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk