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Messages - John B

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1
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Early cherimoya season in San Diego.
« on: October 13, 2022, 02:31:47 PM »
Yes, I harvested a few Pierce and a knight which were the ones I pollinated first. I had figured that was why they ripened so quickly.





2
Hmmm...3/68

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My mango trees are about 13 years old growing in a cool coastal climate.

Really nice, Janet. Any better growers for the coastal side? Going to set my friend up with a seedling and a 15 gallon tree. Not sure which variety I'll graft onto the larger tree. I have most of those varieties as seedlings, along with a few others. Sweet tart had a great second bloom this year but I only let a few fruit hang this year because I had braches break from the weight (lesson learned).



4
Yes, 10% is very conservative...more like 15-20%. Don't forget about those magically shrinking packages. Packaged meat, chips, dips decreasing volume/size of product and inflating with air.


FWIW, Chips are sold by weight, not volume. The bag is filled with nitrogen to preserve freshness. Animal flesh is also sold by weight, generally.

User name checks out with this knowledge.

Flipping hilarious! Here, maybe this will explain what I failed to articulate:
https://www.npr.org/2022/06/08/1103766334/shrinkflation-globally-manufacturers-shrink-package-sizes

5
Yes, 10% is very conservative...more like 15-20%. Don't forget about those magically shrinking packages. Packaged meat, chips, dips decreasing volume/size of product and inflating with air.

6
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Too late to plant a mango tree?
« on: September 23, 2022, 11:29:43 AM »
Is the OP in Florida? Here in SoCal 10a September is my favorite month to plant out trees. Planted a couple seedlings last week and had great weather to get them established.


7
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Flora Farms - A Slice of Heaven in Cabo
« on: September 17, 2022, 04:56:07 PM »
Wow, thanks for the heads up! Looks stunning.

8
Bummer. This winter I'll get a better idea if I can top work the existing tree since it has other varieties grafted or if I need to stump it. Thanks for the help, all.

9
pollinated in March?  Cherimoyas are dormant in march and april no? 

I dont do pollination until June-August

Usually, but I had a brief defoliation. I tried to start earlier to see if the later Ripening tube through winter was the problem. I was grafting/pruning/pollinating at same time.

First year I have done that. But again, other cherimoya  are developing so it is not from that.

10
Best cherimoya fruit development requires temperature above 62F for 10 hours post pollination.
Do you get 10 hours above 62F in March after pollination?

In my yard, hand pollinated cherimoya fruits are much bigger than self pollinated fruits.

Great info. Yes, I'm sure it was but can't confirm. Other cherimoyas are developing nicely from that time.

11
I'm 10 miles from ocean half way up a hill that gets good airflow. My microclimate (10a) is a bit warmer during the summer and cooler during the spring and winter. Pierce will self pollinate better than the others but I will have smaller but fully developed fruit if I don't pollinate them. Those are the fruit I thinned.

Brad, this is the 3rd year of non developed fruit. The fruit in the picture was pollinated middle of March when my tree was just flushing. There are a few more seedling fruit that are even smaller.

During the periods of intense heat, the cherimoya trees do shut down a bit, but Pierce fruit does continue to develop. Now that cooler temps are back, trees look good again. It's either a crappy seedling or, as, galatians522 mentioned, it may not like this microclimate. I'm more than happy to give scions away when I cut this thing down to graft more knight and Pierce to it. Maybe someone wants to experiment (doubtful). Many other varieties I acquired in last couple years have not fruited yet (I'll let them next year) and I'll see if they'll have problems. I doubt it. But with his easy pierce has been, definitely going to top work that to this tree.

Here's a picture from last year's fruit that didn't mature. It's about the size of an 8 ball.


12
Apparently that is what Cherimoya always does in Florida. Suposedly, it is related to high temps causing the fruit to stop developing. Maybe some varieties are more heat sensitive?
[/quote

Interesting hypothesis. It certainly gets warmer in my microclimate, but chilly add well. Appreciate the insight.

13
Thanks. These certainly won't set fruit without hand pollination. Too dry here. Pretty sure seedling rootstock is dud and will need to top work this spring. Oh well.

14
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Booth Cherimoya Fruit not Developing/Ripening
« on: September 11, 2022, 12:41:21 AM »
Bought a 3 gallon Booth Seedling from a nursery a few years ago. Tree is about 8-10 ft now and I have 5-6 different varieties of cherimoya and atemoya on it. I've had Fino de Jete and Pierce branches produce fruit as usual. But, the rootstock fruit do not seem to develop all the way. They just stop growing. I think the largest one last year was about the size of a billiards ball.

All were hand pollinated and are on different parts of the tree. I thinned the fruit heavily this year so I could make sure that was not the issue. I only kept 8 fruit on it this year since I have another fruiting tree. Still same result.

Here is a picture of what the fruit looks like:



And here is a picture of a pierce that was pollinated about 3 weeks after that fruit:



Anyone else experience this? Just a bad fruit on this rootstock? I assume I may need to do heavy pruning this year to top work this tree. Not too excited if that's the case.

Also, LM3 doesn't seem to keep up with the cherimoya grafts on all my trees. Not as vigorous, I guess. Will probably axe them but try to graft on a small seedling. The super AP has no problem keeping up.

On another note, hoping this seedling tree is a winner. Fast growth, handling the heat, and set fruit fast.



15
*Edit, wrong nursery.

16
It's sometimes easier just to grow/find seedlings and graft that variety to it. If you have seedlings or a tree already growing, I can send you a couple scions in spring.

17
Thanks, folks. These are pending pickup.

18
*All Gone*

19
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Grow pots for dwarf citrus
« on: September 07, 2022, 12:03:26 AM »


Where I'm at in Socal, they will last about a summer in full sun before becoming brittle. Bought those years ago and they cracked when I tried to move the plant months later. Maybe the plastic is better now?

You had black ones, right?  If so I expect my experience will be the same as yours.  Oh well, polypropylene may just be awful in sun even with stabilizing carbon.  The graph above is for HDPE, but I was hoping black PP would still last a few years.

Yes, black.

I have all different colors. Several years old. Still holding up. I don't notice any difference in the different colors but I haven't really paid attention. They are not super durable, which is why they cost like $10. Definately if you have a lot of weight in them and moving them by the top of the pot they can possibly break due to being so thin, I scoot them around or pick up from the buttom. But they will last several years.

Wondering if the difference is where they are manufactured...some may be different factories and countries. Some made in USA and in different cities, some in China.

20
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Grow pots for dwarf citrus
« on: September 06, 2022, 01:53:07 PM »
I guess it's a laundry basket. They have different size ones too
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-Flexible-Tub-with-Rope-Handles-Laundry-Basket-Black/910911263?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=5034&adid=22222222278910911263_117755028669_12420145346&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=501107745824&wl4=pla-293946777986&wl5=1015178&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=910911263&wl13=5034&veh=sem_LIA&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjIKYBhC6ARIsAGEds-KcaxcJcPEkB7jBWPkOweeok6kO-NuA4m11-aVFJGRt-d7QT8jAOAsaAiRWEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

1rainman, I ordered some of these containers and they indeed seem great, however the recycling mark indicates they are made from polypropylene which seems to be one of the plastics most affected by UV exposure.  Because it is black it might have more resistance (I think black coloration is from carbon black which has some UV resistance) but I am going to see how long they last before I order more. 

Thanks for mentioning, I'll post back if they start cracking

EDIT - I found this graph that gives me some hope, it shows massive improvement with black coloring (which I assume is always carbon black).  Different plastic, but encouraging
from https://tanks.polyprocessing.com/hubfs/pdf/technical/CarbonBlackandPlastics.pdf


Where I'm at in Socal, they will last about a summer in full sun before becoming brittle. Bought those years ago and they cracked when I tried to move the plant months later. Maybe the plastic is better now?

21
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: red jabo first flowering
« on: August 25, 2022, 11:12:10 AM »
Very nice! Looks like a healthy tree as well. Is that in a 3 gallon pot? Hard to tell scale.

22
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Forcing dragon fruit to bloom ?
« on: August 16, 2022, 04:48:48 PM »
Plantinyum, I think you should return the 0-10-10. It's usually used in conjunction with a micronutrient or grow solution to create custom NPK ratios. I'm not a chemistry expert. But you can do more harm then good if you apply too much of individual macro nutrients because of nutrient lockout or burn. Even using the floranova is fine. I've used maxibloom with great results as well and it is cheap.

If your shade cloth is ~50%, that certainly is way too much. Cherimoya do just fine with a hard prune, so maybe try that next grow season and see how it does (with the shade cloth removed).



23
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Forcing dragon fruit to bloom ?
« on: August 13, 2022, 10:45:36 PM »
Be careful with the AH bloom, I believe that is just an isolated macronutrient of P-K. No micros, so can throw your ratios out of equilibrium. It is typically added with their micro portion. As Janet mentions, micro's are really important.

Different varieties of DF are sensitive to light changes. Growing vs bloom are two different things. More light typically means more blooms. Not saying you won't be successful, just may not get as many flowers under limited light.

24
Sold*

Have one extra 3 gallon S-8 and PG for sale. Both
are from 2 year old vines and are blooming age. The PG has a bloom on it now. S-8 measures 5' from soil to tip and the PF measures 7'. Can get multiple cuttings from them.

Sold. Local pickup in San Diego. I'm in central SD.




25
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Forcing dragon fruit to bloom ?
« on: August 13, 2022, 02:31:14 AM »
Janet always provides great advice, but I do agree with K-Rimes on this one. Floranova is an overpriced marijuana fertilizer. Go with the cheapest bloom fertilizer; dragon fruit are not picky! There are of course differences between organically grown vs. not organically grown. On top of what K-Rimes mentioned (follow those), a few suggestions based on your greenhouse growing.

1. Your plants can use more light. If you can provide that, great, if not, try boosting them with a 0-10-10  to bloom. I typically provide a 0-10-10 from June to October in my climate. The plants get less early blooms, but have multiple summer/early fall bloom flushes. My plants do get a bit yellow with heat, but I am growing for fruit, not to sell cuttings.

2. Df LOVE organic material, I mentioned that I only provide the 0-10-10, but I still provide chicken manure every other month. This provides additional slow release nitrogen and soil microbe development.

3. No to very little watering in the fall/winter. Then zap them early spring with a balanced fertilizer to really wake them up. Again, any cheap complete fertilizer or compost. This usually always guarantees a good bloom in the spring.

Your plants look great. Time to get them to fruit!

If you want to watch a true pro, start watching this guy: https://youtube.com/c/FerryMan

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