Pugging

[bsbullie]

That's sad a freeze claimed what was such a healthy looking tree.  Appreciate you chiming in.  Did you spray anything to kill the grass around your tree??

Do not spray any type of "weed killer" to remove grass.  Grass should always be removed manually to prevent any damage to the tree and not "pollute" the ground with needless herbicieds.

[bsbullie]

Have never pugged a mango before and am a little concerned that I went too far.  Trunk dia is almost 2" for this coconut cream mango.  Cut was a little on the rough side about 14" above the graft.  How long until new shoots would appear if I didn't kill it?

By the way, I would pull away the mulch and some of the "top soil" about a foot radius from the trunk.  Grafted trees should always be planted a little high (a couple/few inches above ground).

Can you also take a close up of what looks tobe another mango over by the air conditioner.

The one by the AC is the lemon zest and the one in the corner by the fence is the rosigold.

Just for future use, when planting a new tree, let the tree be for a couple/few months after planting so it can put the initial energy to establish its roots.  When you cut back the tree at the same time you plant, the tree will not be directing its energy to where it needs to be.  The height you cut back is truly up to you however as I said and as Jeff (Cookie Monster posted), waist height, or 3-4 feet is the lowest point where you really would want your first branching to begin.

[bsbullie]

Have never pugged a mango before and am a little concerned that I went too far.  Trunk dia is almost 2" for this coconut cream mango.  Cut was a little on the rough side about 14" above the graft.  How long until new shoots would appear if I didn't kill it?

By the way, I would pull away the mulch and some of the "top soil" about a foot radius from the trunk.  Grafted trees should always be planted a little high (a couple/few inches above ground).

Can you also take a close up of what looks tobe another mango over by the air conditioner.

The one by the AC is the lemon zest and the one in the corner by the fence is the rosigold.

Just for future use, when planting a new tree, let the tree be for a couple/few months after planting so it can put the initial energy to establish its roots.  When you cut back the tree at the same time you plant, the tree will not be directing its energy to where it needs to be.  The height you cut back is truly up to you however as I said and as Jeff (Cookie Monster posted), waist height, or 3-4 feet is the lowest point where you really would want your first branching to begin.

Also, as stated above, they should be planted high with no potting mix, manure or anything like that added to the hole when you plant.  Crown roots should be visible and not covered with soil or mulch.  Begin the mulch about 12"-18" from the trunk.

[phantomcrab]

I would not worry. My Mallika was damaged during a storm a couple of months after planting and I had to pug it down to 16 inches. It branched back out well below that point. A piece of the neighbor's fence had fallen on the little tree. I had fruit from this tree 2 years after the operation.
However, Mallika and Coconut Cream do have different growth habits as noted by others.

Mallika, a month after the operation...


Same tree today, three years later

[bsbullie]

I would not worry. My Mallika was damaged during a storm a couple of months after planting and I had to pug it down to 16 inches. It branched back out well below that point. A piece of the neighbor's fence had fallen on the little tree. I had fruit from this tree 2 years after the operation.
However, Mallika and Coconut Cream do have different growth habits as noted by others.

Mallika, a month after the operation...


Same tree today, three years later

Not saying that the tree wont push new growth.  One issues, and you commented, that with CC's growth habit is that the branches being that low may tend to hang near or on the ground.  The other issue, which will not be as much of an issue in the short term, is that as the tree gets older, there will be issues with air flow.  It is crucial for quality and clean fruit production for a mango to have air flow.  With larger branches being so close to the ground, it eliminates the possibility of air flow to the tree and can be a contributing factor to fungal and fungal related issues.

Many who like to say they want low branches have not seen or may not know the issues a mature tree will have with such low branching.  Its easy to think their small tree looks nice, has a great shape and will be fine when it is  3-5 years old...however that will all change when the tree gets to 10+ years old and the growth structure increases dramatically.  Remember, while you can control the height, the structure and size of the trunk and lower/initial branches is not controllable and will continue to grow in size with age.

[TnTrobbie]

This post is awesome.  Definitely some characters on board.

Rob - ill post more pictures of the other mangoes nearby.  There's an LZ near the air conditioner and Rosigold beyond that.  This side of my house offers the best sunlight and protection from wind and cold.

Trobbie - I will keep the soil moist and hopefully the weather cooperates.  your post makes me feel better
If you don't mind, please post some of your results.


Thanks,

Here are some pics.
http://postimg.cc/gallery/1zd9hx0ae/

[FruitFreak]

Very nice little mango orchard.  I plan on taking care of shaping the bottom branches to best support whatever airflow is possible.

[LEOOEL]

I just pugged (last week) the heck out of my longan fruit tree.

The thing has not fruited in several years and taken the shape of some kind of overgrown hydra monster. It's got about 4-5 main trunks growing from the main one at ground level. Then center trunk is the one that is most straight/vertical. Now, (FIRST STEP) I'm gonna fertilize the heck out of it. Then (SECOND STEP), I'm 'gonna' compare fruit production among the 4-5 main trunks. And then (THIRD STEP), any of the main trunks that have sub par fruit production are going to feel the wrath of the machete/axe.

[bsbullie]

I just pugged (last week) the heck out of my longan fruit tree.

The thing has not fruited in several years and taken the shape of some kind of overgrown hydra monster. It's got about 4-5 main trunks growing from the main one at ground level. Then center trunk is the one that is most straight/vertical. Now, (FIRST STEP) I'm gonna fertilize the heck out of it. Then (SECOND STEP), I'm 'gonna' compare fruit production among the 4-5 main trunks. And then (THIRD STEP), any of the main trunks that have sub par fruit production are going to feel the wrath of the machete/axe.

As i dont know what care/fertilization you have been giving your longan but something is wrong with the care or your tree if it hasnt fruited for several years.  With this winters weather, your tree should flower for you so i would hold off on any pruning at this time.  If it doesnt, Instead of all, the proposed drastic measures,  why not just apply some potassium chlorate and be done with it.  At least you will then get fruit.

[gnappi]

I guess pugging has its place if you have plenty of space to walk / mow around it but in my case I don't top one till the first branches are over five+ feet tall. Yeah, initially they're spindly like a beanstalk but in the long run I can get by them once the canopy fills out.

[LEOOEL]

When it comes to pugging, I'm beginning to 'dig it,' as in 'can you dig it.'

For instance, last year I did some substantial pugging on one of my 'Tikal' sapodilla/nispero fruit trees, in the form of doing some substantial branch and fruit pruning.

With regards to the fruit pruning, this was done when the fruits were about half an inch wide. The fruit pruning was done to about one half of the sapodilla tree. The tree is over two stories tall.

The objective of this pugging was to increase fruit size and quality.

Well, this year, I've done no such pugging. But, I have noticed an increase in fruit size and quality as a result of last year's pugging. For instance, this past week, about 8 sapodilla fruits were picked from the tree that had the size of a small-medium mamey fruit, which is huge for a sapodilla fruit, now that's saying something. I've never seen a sapodilla fruit be that enormous, especially for a 'Tikal' sapodilla which are know to be at best a small-medium sapodilla fruit.

Now I'm thinking that if I had pugged the whole tree last year and pugged all the fruit, - pugging the fruit is so much more tedious than pugging branches - perhaps I would now be having a sapodilla crop with a larger quantity of giant sapodilla fruit.

Perhaps some fruit varieties react with better fruit production than other fruit varieties. For example, after doing some severe pugging on my 'Keitt' mango trees, they respond with a production of giant, cannonball sized fruit!

Therefore, since the 'Tikal' sapodilla responded so well with larger fruit after pugging, and, the 'Hasya' sapodilla is a larger fruit that the 'Tikal,' it seems probable that by doing some adequate pugging to my 'Hasya' sapodilla tree, - when it reaches a height of 2 stories - that it will then produce larger than normal 'Hasya' sapodilla fruit. With any luck, the 'Hasya' will respond to the pugging even better than the 'Tikal.' And, the heavy production of 'Ox' (*) sapodilla sized fruit that I and others have been looking for will be finally attained.

(*)   'Ox' is one of the largest known sapodilla fruit varieties. The major problem with 'Ox' is that it has low fruit production.

[bsbullie]

Leo - what you are doing with the fruit is "thinning".

[Waterfall]

Here is an update on my KP mango

about 2 weeks after pugging


after, its about waist height and you can see my pandora passionfruit vine behind which is currently flowering.


and a FDJ cherimoya

before


after

[LEOOEL]

Leo - what you are doing with the fruit is "thinning".

merci bocu

[FruitFreak]

I figured its time to update yall on the extreme pugging that went down in my yard a little over 1 month ago.  Each variety responded well by shooting out new branches.







Coco Cream:  I may take out 1 or 2 branches in a few weeks.  Waiting to see what symmetry can be achieved once the branches stretch out a little more.




Keitt



PPK: Needs some pruning, currently waiting to see how things stretch out.




Kent







Baileys Marvel:  This small tree is proving to be a little stud.  Vigorous, compact, and symmetrical





Carrie:  Taking a nice shape.



Pickering, Ice Cream, Cogshall:  The cogshall has responded the slowly.  This particular tree was the most unhealthy and slowest growing prior to the pugging.  All three will probably remain in pots after I mix up a suitable medium.





Lemon Zest:  Leggy but responded well to the pugging.  Branches have settled into their places.





Rosigold: About to be taken over by the godforsaken Ruellias!  Keeps trying to flower.

[bsbullie]

"Vigorous compact" in the same description? ?   

[FruitFreak]

Since you removed the leader, your brances will most likely start 4"-12" below the cut.  With the CC's undulating growth habit, those bottom branches will be dipping and near dragging the ground, like I said above.  You will need to try to promote some healthy vertical growth.
[/quote]

I got lucky, as it tuned out the nodes started pushing just below the knuckle.  Is it typical for such light coloration on new mango growth?

 

[FruitFreak]

"Vigorous compact" in the same description? ?   

Strong, healthy, and full of energy with a nice shape. 

[Osito]

This is my kiett. Still with bare puna led and all straggly with a thin trunk. I wanna hack it back and take the stake out to promote a trunk thickness. It's been in the ground a little over a year. Thoughts?

[MangoFang]

Osito - you know the Keitt tends to be a scraggly grower by its nature, yes?
So, you could pug (cut) it back and get more, thicker, scraggly growth.  I don't think
it will ever send out stout vertical branches like the Lemon Zest does,or if it does, they
most likely will begin like that  before they bend sideways and eventually weight themselves
toward the ground.  It's just a  willowy grower. However,  it's most wonderful redeeming value,
in my opinion, is how long it will hold decent tasting fruits to really extend your mango season....


Gary

[mangomaniac2]

Best to just start tying it up to shape the tree.

[FruitFreak]

Since you removed the leader, your brances will most likely start 4"-12" below the cut.  With the CC's undulating growth habit, those bottom branches will be dipping and near dragging the ground, like I said above.  You will need to try to promote some healthy vertical growth.

I got lucky, as it tuned out the nodes started pushing just below the knuckle.  Is it typical for such light coloration on new mango growth?
[/quote]

Just wanted to provide updated pics of my CC extreme pruning.  To properly form the three vertical leaders I had to continually tip them at the same knuckle so they would thicken up.  They are now strong enough to support new flushes

[pschill444@aol.com]

will this work for jujube's i was told no  and should try heavy fertlizer instead, i was given 2 jujube's last year over 6 feet tall nat a single branch , any ideas ??        thanks       Patrick

[bigalxx15]

After the last little fruit fell off of my Coconut Cream mango tree yesterday, I want to get some advise on where to pug this tree. Should I pug it just below the last set of leaves and branches? I purchased the Coconut Cream mango as a 25 gal about 6 months ago from a nursery in Miami that purchased it from Zills. I stepped it up to a 45 gal right after I got it. Any advise would be appreciated.

[FruitFreak]

After the last little fruit fell off of my Coconut Cream mango tree yesterday, I want to get some advise on where to pug this tree. Should I pug it just below the last set of leaves and branches? I purchased the Coconut Cream mango as a 25 gal about 6 months ago from a nursery in Miami that purchased it from Zills. I stepped it up to a 45 gal right after I got it. Any advise would be appreciated.

Top around waist high is a safe bet.