Jabuticaba soil mixes used

[CeeJey]

I just recently up-potted some of mine that were getting touchy in 1/3 peat, 1/3 compost, 1/3 pearlite with some lava sand thrown in and they've been significantly less touchy since. Also since I started adjusting the ph of the water lower to around a 6 (honestly I'm surprised that they were surviving at 8 ph water to the extent that they were).

I've been hesitant to go hard on Holly Tone after I got fertilizer burn with it once on a red (might have been a bad batch or something) but everybody else seems to get great results with it. But all of mine get foliar feed regularly and respond well to that.

Plinia rivularis and escalarte have been the most touchy for me, seedling reds and restinga the least so far.

[elouicious]

I put a layer of rocks on the bottom of the pot, then sit them in a saucer so that there can be some "groundwater" for the plants to reach- this practice is highly debated on this forum

Wow what a cool concept! I see no reason why it wouldn't work as expected, what's the argument against it?

Some argue it promotes root rot, for other species it definitely can. I think most Plinia like to have their feet wet, I have seen Myrciaria dubia plants grow completely submerged in a river.

Basically some think it isnt worth the risk and some think it is the secret to success

[elouicious]

I just recently up-potted some of mine that were getting touchy in 1/3 peat, 1/3 compost, 1/3 pearlite with some lava sand thrown in and they've been significantly less touchy since. Also since I started adjusting the ph of the water lower to around a 6 (honestly I'm surprised that they were surviving at 8 ph water to the extent that they were).

I've been hesitant to go hard on Holly Tone after I got fertilizer burn with it once on a red (might have been a bad batch or something) but everybody else seems to get great results with it. But all of mine get foliar feed regularly and respond well to that.

Plinia rivularis and escalarte have been the most touchy for me, seedling reds and restinga the least so far.

I use most fertilizers at 1/4 strength for the first application- with fertilizers a little goes a long way, and the punishment for going overboard is severe

The main benefit of the holly tone is the acidification of the soil- could also be that you swung the pH of the soil in the pot too quickly

[onur]

Also when do I eat it?

I ate my scarlettes when they were red, heavy, chunky, juicy and big.    For black varieties, it should be totally black, I guess...

I was tempted to wait till it fell off the tree. Would it be spoiled by then?

I wouldn't wait! They may go bad.

[RS]

Also when do I eat it?

I ate my scarlettes when they were red, heavy, chunky, juicy and big.    For black varieties, it should be totally black, I guess...

I was tempted to wait till it fell off the tree. Would it be spoiled by then?

I wouldn't wait! They may go bad.

What's the variety? If it's an astringent type (e.g. Sabara, Grimal, coronata, grandiflora) then you need to wait until it's deep color and slightly soft, otherwise it'll taste awful.

If it's a non-astringent variety (e.g. red jabo, trunciflora, phitrantha, anomaly) then should be fine to eat early.

Flying Fox Fruits had a youtube video about this that was really helpful to understand. I'd been harvesting Sabara too early and they were nasty. With Sabara, it needs to be almost black and have some give (not hard).

[tru]

you harvest them when you can twist it off right?

[RS]

you harvest them when you can twist it off right?

You can twist them off too early if it's an astringent type and they haven't softened enough. At least with mine, they should be slightly soft before picking for best flavor. They'll also soften after picking but the flavor isn't as good in my opinion. Curious about others experiences...

[Tropicaltoba]

Also when do I eat it?

I ate my scarlettes when they were red, heavy, chunky, juicy and big.    For black varieties, it should be totally black, I guess...

I was tempted to wait till it fell off the tree. Would it be spoiled by then?

I wouldn't wait! They may go bad.

What's the variety? If it's an astringent type (e.g. Sabara, Grimal, coronata, grandiflora) then you need to wait until it's deep color and slightly soft, otherwise it'll taste awful.

If it's a non-astringent variety (e.g. red jabo, trunciflora, phitrantha, anomaly) then should be fine to eat early.

Flying Fox Fruits had a youtube video about this that was really helpful to understand. I'd been harvesting Sabara too early and they were nasty. With Sabara, it needs to be almost black and have some give (not hard).

Thanks for the suggestions, It’s originally from pine island nursery as an unnamed cultivar, and it’s at least 7 years old (I’ve had it for 6 and I got if from someone else as a 2.5’ tree). I’m gonna pick it right now. Texting in real time, just a bit of give to the fruit and…. Delicious…. And I ate the skin too (nice funk and just I hint of astringency.

[CeeJey]

I use most fertilizers at 1/4 strength for the first application- with fertilizers a little goes a long way, and the punishment for going overboard is severe

The main benefit of the holly tone is the acidification of the soil- could also be that you swung the pH of the soil in the pot too quickly

Gotcha. I've been very slowly re-adding it to some of the more acid-liking ones in the collection after letting them get settled in the new mix.

[daisyguy]

I put a layer of rocks on the bottom of the pot, then sit them in a saucer so that there can be some "groundwater" for the plants to reach- this practice is highly debated on this forum

Wow what a cool concept! I see no reason why it wouldn't work as expected, what's the argument against it?

It raises your perched water table. See: https://lee.ces.ncsu.edu/2018/12/rocks-in-pots-drainage-or-perched-water-table-problems/

[Tortuga]

I use native soil. They love my sandy loam. I only use organic and homemade compost. The fruits taste better and more nutritious when using organic!

[elouicious]

I put a layer of rocks on the bottom of the pot, then sit them in a saucer so that there can be some "groundwater" for the plants to reach- this practice is highly debated on this forum

Wow what a cool concept! I see no reason why it wouldn't work as expected, what's the argument against it?

It raises your perched water table. See: https://lee.ces.ncsu.edu/2018/12/rocks-in-pots-drainage-or-perched-water-table-problems/

A little convoluted but this appears to be the main bit

Actually, a perched water table (where the water “perches” or gathers) forms at the container soil bottom where the drainage level is, even though it is open at the bottom. This saturated water level is called a water table. This happens in outdoor soil too, not just in our containers. The water table is the dividing line separating the unsaturated zone from the saturated zone. The soil is saturated because the pores are filled with water. The area above the water table is the unsaturated zone and is where the plant’s roots have space to grow well. If gravel is added to the bottom of the pot, the perched water table area of saturated soil without aeration is above that in the container, so even less room for the roots to grow and be healthy in. Root rot diseases can be the result of roots remaining in waterlogged soils.

I wonder if this is in the case of overwatering, and if fabric/terracotta pots might make a difference

[Tropicaltoba]

I use large (15-35 gallon) plastic pots and drill 4 large holes on the side at the bottoms. I then place large cedar bark chunks in the bottom 2” to stop the soil from falling out. I then place the pot in a 2” deep saucer. I find that pants that like water will suck up that 2” of water in the bottom within 4-6 hrs, if the water remains overnight I put a 1-2” lift under the pot.

Plants that hate standing water-  sugar apple, young citrus, longan

Plants that suck up standing water - jaboticaba, guavas (all types strawberry, pinapple aka feijoia) banana, passion fruit mature citrus