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Messages - Galatians522

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1
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Passing of forum member Giant Gecko
« on: March 20, 2025, 11:49:13 PM »
That is very sad news. Not that long ago a very dear friend was passing from cancer and I got to sit on the porch with him and talk. Most of his hair had fallen out and his body was getting weaker every day. To my perspective there was not much to be thankful for. In fact, even my being there was due to him doing a favor for someone else (and I was the go between). But, that was how he lived his life--all the way to the end...

What he said blew me away, "I can't complain. God has been so good to me." I hope that when my time comes, I will have the faith to say the same. In the mean time, I want to make sure that I tell the people I care about that I love them and how precious they are to me. Thank you for letting us know.

2
Most peaches and nectarines will still bloom acceptably with about half of their full chill requirement. Some sites list a "minimum chill requitement" which has already been adjusted to the lower number. The tree won't bloom right if it gets less than that. If this nectarine has a full chill requirement of 800 (which I am pretty sure is the case) it should still bloom ok with 500-700 chill hours. It won't be loaded but you will get some fruit on the lower end of that. Disease resistance is another issue all together.

3
Generally a single bevel is useful for veneer and bud grafting because it allows you to slide the knife between the cambium and woody mtl. without gouging into the wood. You can accomplish the same with a double bevel or razor you just have to be really careful. I messed around with many knives I have a single bevel for bud and veneer but use a breakable blade razor knife for cleft grafts ,always super sharp and works perfectly.

I've been thinking of trying a break blade. It would give me a slightly longer working surface than the box cutter blade. I bet you could do over 100 grafts with one. The added cost of about $.01 per graft is well worth the time saved sharpening the knife in my opinion.

4
Until about a month ago I used a box cutter blade for all my grafts. They are, of course, double beveled and have not experienced any major issue. That being said, I got to try a friend's single bevel grafting knife about a month ago and it was super sweet and held a straight smooth cut very well.

5
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Potting Soil for Pineapples
« on: March 16, 2025, 12:00:20 PM »
Straight pinebark fines will make an acceptable potting mix for pineapples. We had about 100 in 7 gallon pots at one point. We fertilized with miracle grow and had about 70 grocery store size fruits--until the rats and squirels found them...

6
The leaves of that top pic with the green fruit sure look like the pictures I have seen of Malus angustifolia. I am definitely no expert, though.

7
Citrus General Discussion / Re: How to select rootstock seedlings
« on: March 14, 2025, 08:54:24 PM »
Sam, I have seen the results of J-root seedlings, they grow fine, but not as fast or healthy as straight roots as Millet and others have mentioned. I just don't get rid of my J-root seedling, still can be useful to graft.

Good to know. Apparently, there is some truth in the old saying. It probably made more of a difference I, the old unirrigated groves.

8
Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Grafting questions
« on: March 13, 2025, 09:37:48 PM »
For thise who were interested in the dimensions of the jig, here are the approximate dimensions from my 1/2" jig. I did not really measure anything when I made it. I just eyeballed it and moved on. But for those who like dimensions, here they are.

Drill a 1/2" hole straight through the center of a 2" x 2" block of wood about 5" long. Drill as straight as possible--the angle comes from the cut. The angled cut is about a 2 x 12 pitch (2" rise in 12" for those who are not as familiar with wood working and angles). Make a mark on the side of the jig about 1/4" below the bottom of the hole (you want to make sure the end of the jig extends past the scion after it is cut). Draw the angle (2x12 pitch) on the side of the jig and cut. The total angled portion is about 3 & 1/2" long. Cut a 1 & 1/2" shelf on the back of the jig (so that you have a place to hold the scion on the jig when it is being used). The shelf cut goes through the center line of the hole (so that part of the scion sticks up above the trough of the jig and allows you to pinch it tight into the jig). Use a sharp knife to trim the top of the 1/2" hole from an "o" shape into a "u" shape and round the corners on the back of the jig if there is a sharp edge. Sand smooth and you are done!

9
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself
« on: March 13, 2025, 08:22:46 PM »
Hi I'm Phil
I'm in the process of creating a food forest in Parrish Fl
Currently have 64 fruit trees panted, always looking for more

Welcome Phil! Good luck with your food forest. I always love stopping at Gulleys when I go through Parish.

10
Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Grafting questions
« on: March 13, 2025, 08:07:53 PM »
That's a really awesome tool you made there. I could see the advantage of that for sure. I'm gonna have to make one of those someday. I bet you have a real money making idea there.

D, the idea is not original to me. Others have made them in the past. This just happens to be my "design." I drilled the hole in a chunk of scrap wood and cut the angle on a chop saw. I did 4 sizes from 5/16" to 1/2". Since I was freehanding the drill, the hole on the 1/2" one got off center. A drill press would have made it super easy. The 7/16" in the picture turned out great and went to a friend.

I don't have time to make a bunch for forum members due to work. But, you are welcome to mass produce and sell if you want. I think $40 each would be a fair price for the time invested in making the tool. If you made them from a hard wood like oak, that would increase the cost but it would last longer. I have a feeling you could sell quite a few at that price. When you are using it the key is to shave the scion down in several strokes. If you get greedy and try to do it in one cut the added friction will pull the scion through the jig. If you match the scion size on a straight smooth scion the cuts match almost perfectly. It does not work as well on bumpy or curved scionwood.

11
Well, I'm back again with the carrots. This year I grew a few new ones. From the left: New Kuroda, Uzbeck Golden, Purple Dragon, Kyoto Red, and Uberlandia. Seed came from Baker Creek except for Uberlandia which came from Third Insight Design. The first 4 were all way better than grocery store carrots in flavor. Kyoto Red probably had the most similar shape to a store carrot if that is important to you.

Uberlandia is still under selection, so there was more variation. Most were equal to a store carrot in flavor while a few were excellent and were every bit as good as the New Kuroda and other specialty carrots. Uberlandia is one of the few carrots that will set seed in one season and is also reported to be nematode resistant. I can confirm that Uberlandia is about to bloom (planted in November). I also did not have any significant nematode damage to Uberlandia in my soil type. I'll be saving seed and growing a bunch of these next year with the hopes of selecting for that "New Kuroda" quality. To my knowledge this is the first review of this carrot for almost 30 years--someone obviously spent a lot of time getting it where it is. I feel like it is almost at the finish line for being an excellent quality nematode resistant option for Florida seed savers.



Here is a pic of a bunch of Uberlandia carrots just after being yanked out of the ground.



12
Citrus General Discussion / Re: How to select rootstock seedlings
« on: March 12, 2025, 09:31:10 PM »
Check all the sprouts over when they are about 3" tall  and discard any off types (for example any sprouts that are not trifoliate for X-639 but just the opposite for Rough Lemon). Also discard anything that your gut tells you just looks different and the weakest growers or any that have a twisted trunk (hard to bud) or that have a tap root that looks like a "J". It may just be an old wives tale, but they say that "J" root trees will never be healthy as a mature tree. This requires bare rooting the seedlings. So, they must not be flushing at that time or you will kill many of them. That is what we did when I worked in the citrus nursery.

13
Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Grafting questions
« on: March 12, 2025, 06:54:26 PM »
Guess it doesn't total matter but these were whip and tongue grafts. Usually do cleft but recently feel like whip and tongue can be better sometimes.

Anyone willing to sell some rolls of the real grafting tape?

I agree about the whip and tongue it is my new favorite graft even if no one else on the forum seems to be giving it much love. It is fast with high cambium contact and good success rates for me. I also like a side/veneer graft with a tongue when the scion is smaller than the stock. I pre-wrap my scions with the cheap old budding tape and then wrap the union with flagging tape. I have not covered with foil, yet.

I also took the time to make a whip graft jig which has really sped me up. It keeps the angle exactly the same and helps make smooth cuts as I build confidence. Over 2 dozen annona grafts using the jig and all seem to be pushing so far.






14
Looks like some kind of Hawthorne.

15
The big old Mauritius tree next door was hit by LEM a year ago, but it seems to have fully recovered at this point, and because of the extra cold days this winter it has lots of blossoms.  How unusual is that?  I guess it doesn't mean that it won't be hit again in the future.  What do you think, Galatians?  (No one used any sulfur on it.)

The pest has not been in Florida long enough to actually know what the end results might be in all the various situations. So, take this with a grain of salt since it is mostly conjecture. My guess is that the mite is not gone but simply going through its natural cycle. They mainly attack new flushes. Its quite probable that it will pop back up again when conditions are favorable and continue to weaken the tree. It will take a long time to kill an old established tree (maybe more than a decade as a guess). But, fruit production and quality will decline in the process as fewer nutrients are available in the leaves to produce sugars etc. On a world wide scale, this pest seems to have wiped out the Brazilian lychee industry. However, Australia and Hawaii seem to be able to deal with it to a certain, extent. Some say this is because natural predators were also introduced to Australia and Hawaii but not in Brazil. I guess time will tell how much it affects us here in Florida.

16
The Minneola I grew to full maturity 35 years ago was accompanied by a Navel, Ruby Red, Valencia and Temple. Whichever contributed as a pollenator did a hell of a good job because to this day those tangelos were the most delicious and beautiful citrus fruit I've ever had.

You're going to love that Minneola.

Temple is a known pollenator for Minneola.

17
I just listened to a talk where a guy was saying that Brachiaria grass is being planted in row middles of citrus groves in Brazil and slung under the trees with mechanical mowers. Very few weeds grow under the deep shade of a healthy tree. The Bracharia acts as a renewable green mulch for the trees. There is probably something there for budding soil scientists.

18
Have you noticed any differences in tolerance to the LEM?

I have not noticed a significant difference between Hak Ip and Sweet Heart in tollerence to LEM so far. Maybe a different trend will arise with time. Both of them seem more sensitive to the sulfur spray than the other varieties for some reason, though.

19
Thanks, Galatians.  What you've said makes sense.  :)  Would you plant a Sweetheart lychee tree in Port St. Lucie?

Only if you are willing to spray sulfur for LEM. Its very sad for me to say since my Dad has been growing lychee since before I was born, but it seems to be the reality of where we are at this point. If you are willing to commit to the spraying and maintenance it now requires, Sweet Heart is a good variety.

20
We have had them both in our grove for about 20 years and are one of the few that kept the varieties strictly seperate so that a comparison could actually be made. The man who originally selected Sweet Heart has been to our grove multiple times and confirmed that what we have is indeed consistent with what was selected in their grove after hurricane Andrew. I think we have about 10 Florida Hak Ip at this point and about 20 Sweet Heart trees. The trees bloom together, ripen together, and have very similar growth habits and fruit appearence. As I mentioned, the biggest difference is in comparing fruit quality. Florida Hak Ip should be eaten with some green still on the skin. If it is allowed to fully turn color it can develop an off flavor. Sweet Heart has never developed this off flavor in our grove even when fully colored. That being said, at the "early ripe" stage the fruits are indistinguishable to my palate. For this reason I would consider Sweet Heart an improved Hak Ip.

21
In my experience, they are very similar but not identical. For example, Hak Ip develops an off flavor when over ripe that Sweet Heart does not get. They are probably strains of the same variety (Royal Concubine's Laugh) from China and many people began selling them as the same due to the trade mark on the Sweet Heart name. Speaking of names, the Hak Ip name is a mislabel here in Florida. The real Hak Ip (Black Leaf) in China has very different charicteristics. For example the real Hak Ip has very few shrunken seeds, crisp flesh that does not leak juice, and medium sized fruit (none of these are true of the lychee going by Hak Ip in Florida).

22
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Lychee Air Layering Questions...
« on: March 10, 2025, 06:07:08 PM »
Only the leaves need sun.

23
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Keitt as a root stock good or bad?!
« on: March 08, 2025, 08:43:12 PM »
That is a hard question to answer. If it is what you have available, I would use it. However, since Keitt is monoembryonic, it will produce offspring that are highly variable. Some of the variability (tree size and "thriftiness" for example) can cary over into your grafted trees. In a commercial setting it might not be the best option. But, for a collector it is likely just fine. Turpentine and Manilla (typical rootstock of choice in Florida and California) are both polyembryonic. So, they make very consistent trees for rootstock.

24
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: 2025 grafting list
« on: March 08, 2025, 08:34:46 PM »
Is it better to graft when it is cold, or when it is hot if you had to choose?

That depends on whether you are grafting a cold callus or hot callus plant. Cherries would be an example of cold callus plant and Mango a hot callus. Many plants fall in between.

25
Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Wild mango Cameroon
« on: March 08, 2025, 07:23:37 PM »
I don't think mango is native to Cameroon. It is probably just a seedling mango that escaped from cultivation.

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