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Messages - cassowary

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Citrus Buy, Sell, & Trade / Re: WTB Citrus glauca seeds
« on: May 23, 2023, 07:29:01 PM »
I can probobly barter some with you if you are interested.

On my last batch of G. Priniana I had 95% germination rate.
But there is definetly time difference between when they germinate as some are already 2 cm seedlings and some are just breaking out from the seed. And all those seeds where from the same tree the same day. That inside a plastic box with shad over, keeps it moist and warm!

They should become more common here too! It’s a winner tree in so many ways!!


Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Tropical Fruit Tree Memes
« on: May 10, 2023, 11:22:45 PM »

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: thinning out garcinia fruit
« on: May 10, 2023, 11:10:04 PM »
Thin early, then there is less energy spent of fruits your gonna chop of anyway.
It's very likely size will be greater.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Tropical Fruit Tree Memes
« on: May 10, 2023, 11:07:18 PM »
HAHA hilarious memes!

and that rap is creative!

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Not enough Durian Discussion
« on: May 10, 2023, 11:03:09 PM »
good on you for setting all that up for durian! I am sure you'll be rewarded one day!

I think that looks more like some form of parasitic bacteria or fungus but I am unsure, is there discoloration too? You got them under the shade cloth so I doubt it would be sun burn. Did you have any strong dry wind?

If it is dehydration from wind/sun then there might be something that reduces the osmosis in the soil for the plant so that it can't get enough sap to the new leaf's, maybe some parasite on the roots? Over application of salt fertilizer can draw water out of the plant, you can check that by checking the electro conductance of the soil. IDK, But I wouldn't be to worried about it unless it keeps happening over an over and general health starts going down.

brian, message forum member maryoto, he has some A lancifolius at the moment. He just haven't posted it yet.

I have cherapu in season but it's more then half a year until then. 20-30 is a lot of seeds, that's about 20-30 fruits because usually only one viable seed.

fermamo was kind enough to send some new fresh seeds at his own expense.

Going to the RFA Inc AGM weekend in Cassowary coast next weekend so wanted to post some plants that I have up for barter. since some others on the forum might visit too so a good meeting spot.

All plants are in tubes.
I have these plants for barter:

Aglaia korthalsii
Garcinia forbesii
Diospyros glandulosa
Garcinia sp. Buah badung (Maryoto on forum)
Pouteria viridis
Eugenia mcvaughii red type
Ruby supreme guava (fruit fly resistant)
Pink nonii
Garcinia warenii
Elaeagnus pungens
Calabash tree
Eugenia coronata
Malay apple
Burmese grape
Parmentiera cereifera
Garcinia priniana

Seeds or plants I am looking for:
I don't have these.
If you have other seeds or plants please let me know as they might be of interest too and might wanna swap for those no worries :)

Annona sp.
Annanas sp. (seed only)

Artocarpus sp.

Artocarpus altilis, breadfruit with seeded fruit
Artocarpus altilis, breadfruit with pinkish aril, (Indonesia, Lombok?)
Artocarpus marianensis, Duk Duk (Dug Dug)

Astrocaryum aculeatissimum, Brejaúva (Brazil)
Acrocomia aculeata, Bocaiuva (S. America) (coconut relative)

Bactris concinna (northern Brazil, Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador, Colombia)
Bactris ferruginea, Tucum (eastern Brazil)
Bactris major, Beach Palm (Beach Palm)
Bactris maraja, Maraja (Brazil, Bolivia, Peru, north through Central America to Costa Rica)
Bactris setosa, Tucum (Brazil)

Beilschmiedia anay, Anayo (Guatemala to Mexico)

Brosimum alicastrum, Ramon/Maya nut (C. America)
Bertholletia excelsa, Brazil nut

Canarium album, Chinese White Olive (E. Asia)
Canarium ovatum, Pili, (Philippines, New Guinea)
Canarium odontophyllum var. maroon/crimson/red skin.
Canarium sp.

Carica sp. (not papaya)
Caryocar brasiliense, Pequi (Brazil) (dry, rich taste)
Caryodendron orinocense, Metohuayo/barinas nuts (Peru)

Cocos nucifera var. macapuno coconut (E. Asia)
Cocos nucifera var. spicata dwarf coconut (E. Asia)

Duguetia sp.

Dacryodes buettneri (Cameroon, Equatorial Guinea, Gabon, Congo)
Dacryodes igaganga (Cameroon, Equatorial Guinea, Gabon and possibly Congo)
Dacryodes klaineana (Sierra Leone to Cameroon, south to Gabon.)
Dacryodes macrocarpa (Malaysia, Indonesia, Philippines.)
Dacryodes rostrata, Kembayau (Malaysia, Indonesia, Vietnam, Philippine)

Durio dulcis, gigant fruited variety
Durio lowianus (Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia)
Durio oblongus (Sarawak, Malaysia)
Durio testudinarum, kura-kura (Malaysia, Indonesia)
Durio kinabaluensis, Mount Kinabalu durian (Kinabalu)
Durio crassipes (Tenom and Sipitang areas of Sabah)
Durio grandiflorus (Borneo)

Durio sp. (Any other durio species,
Durio zibethinus var. thornless (Jakarta Java, Lombok Island Indonesia, Philippines)

Dimocarpus longan subsp. longan var. echinatus

Dilianum indica, Keranji madau

Discorea sp, Yam, (seed not bulb unless in AU)

Eleiodoxa conferta
Eugenia sp.
Euterpe oleracea, Acai palm

Gustavia macarenensis, iniaku (Ecuador)
Garcinia sp.

Pithecellobium dulce, Manila tamarind (Central America)
Platonia insignis, Bacuri (South America)

Inga sp. (not edulis, laurina, thaubuadiana, spectabilis, feuillei)

Musa aiuri/Musa troglodytarum, Fei banana, Mai'A He'I (AU seeds only)
Musa sp. (AU seeds only)

Litsea calophylla, Engkalak relative (Indonesia)
Litsea machilifolia, Engkalak relative (Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia)

Lodoicea maldivica, coco de mer/double coconut (Seychelles)
Lasjia grandis (Macadamia grandis), Barong nut (FNQ, China camp)
Lechytis pisonis, Monkey pot nut

Macadamia sp. (Not integrifolia or tetraphylla)

Mangifera incarpoides (New Guinea)
Mangifera kemanga, Kemang (Indonesia)
Mangifera pentandra (Malaysia, Indonesia)
Mangifera pedicellata (Indonesia)
Mangifera rubropetala (Borneo)
Mangifera sp.

Mauritia Flexuosa, Buriti (S. America)

Myristica fragrans, nutmeg

Persea americana cv. long neck "russel"
Persea americana cv. red skin
Persea schideana, Coyo (southern Mexico and parts of Central America)

Ruby Longan variety (bronze red skin)

Salacca sp., Salak palm (not Salacca edulis or Salacca wallichiana)

Scorodocarpus borneensis (garlic flavoured leafs)
Syzygium aromaticum, Clove

Spondias Tuberosa, Umbu (Brazil)
Talisia sp.
Uvaria sp.


Hey Tru,
Do you offer SEO for people with stores already? or do you offer the "extras" only to people who have done the website with you?
The seeds store I got is built with WordPress, maybe you only do shopify.

Good to see all prices, thanks for being transparent :D


tru, yeah that's the same experience I had moldy on the inside.
Chrysophyllum cainito have had high germiantion rate for me, even after 60 days from the fruit dropped of the tree. So I guess that albidum should have at least similar survival rate.

Wow you must have gotten a fresh batch. Did you buy from other seller? Who then? Thanks


Wow A. hirsutus looks delicious. Is it??

Absurd! :D
Where is the evidence that "Plants in rainforests have almost sterile soil "

Maybe "sterile" was not the best word to use. I meant it's generally not much fertile as it's poor in nutrients.
One of the most cited reasons for this is that nutrients are often washed away by rain.

Nutrients are cycled fast by biology, it's released when the biology is terminated such as clear cutting  or a natural disaster. That's why slash and burn gives amazing yields short term.


2. Rainforest trees anchors themselves with each other, it's a very strong anchour as long they have each other. And some rainforest trees like the the Illawarra flame tree have a persistent taproot.

Yeah desert palnts are very efficient becuase the use trichomes to harvest water, gas and nutrients.

"Its as if tropical fruit trees are unable to "do the work" of bringing flowers, leaves at lower temps whereas temperate trees (apples, plums, apricot, pears etc.. ) do that with ease..
What is the science behind this?"
It might have to do with the plants ability to regulate osmosis is a certain way in certain temperature spectrums.

Efficiency probably depends on many factors. Just like an animal evolving on an island without predators can become "lazy" a plant could be not so efficient if it can survive anyway.

Plants in rainforests have almost sterile soil but they live in a highly competitive environment. Plants try to outgrow each other to access more light. Those plants are probably quite efficient i guess.

Also plants living in deserts might be efficient in some other ways.

Absurd! :D
Where is the evidence that "Plants in rainforests have almost sterile soil "

I can not see any evidence for this, neither in my biology book or real life.
Durio zibethinus have association with arbuscular mychorizea and the majority of rainforest trees have association with myco or/and bac.

And there is insects in the rainforest soil when I disturb it. There is even nematodes in the rainforest soil.
Rainforest soil is teeming with microbes and animals!
If this where not true then it wouldn't be impossible to walk thru a rainforest because all the litter would just pile up several meters without degradation (it would just oxidize and pile up). And eventually the forest would die because the cycle is not completed.
There are life above the soil (mulch) and also in the soil and some go up and down between the two.

Desertification happens when the environment is getting toward sterile (no life) as far as biology goes.
rainforest soil is the anthesis of sterile. It is the grand finale in microbiology!
Rain = water = water is a form of life energy.

I don't think efficiency is the right word to describe the phenomenon that is being described. 
Adaptation would be more suitable as other posters have said.

OP, You can also turn it around and ask why some temperate tree's can't grow as fast as tropical trees. The answer is in the flipped question :D

Plants don't have endocrine systems like animals do and thus their growth is limited by osmosis.
They have "hormones" but it's a lot different.
Temperature affect water and that will affect osmosis for plants so temperate adapted plants might posses the ability to amend water so that osmosis works well at lower temperatures.
All nutrients and solids (metabolites) inside a plant have to be in water solution in order to move so the difference between tropicals and temperate plants might be how water is treated inside the plant or by associated microbiology on the outside.
Not just carbohydrate levels but other substances to affect osmosis.

"The process of osmosis accelerates when the temperature rises just as it does with any process of general diffusion"


Are these kemanga seeds fresh and of the white variety shown in the third image??

The one wanii seed I got a while ago never germinated, it was to old I assume.
I have germinated many M. caesia wanii before and in general germination rates are very high.
Some other seeds and Mangifera from RFP have been great and fresh. Thanks bro!
I recommend RFP.


Have anyone had successful germination of these?

I had nothing out of more then 20 seeds from fermamo.
He said they where fresh.
I didn't scarify them just sowed them in my seed nursery setup.
I recommend fermamo, he's a good seller. Just this one didn't go well.


I have Germinated G. priniana seeds and some tiny seedlings (2cm high). They germinate and grow very slow.
Are you looking for G priniana only? I'v got a nursery too but don't post much of that here.
You can PM if you want. Let me know how many G. Priniana you want, can give you more then 1 for 1 as they are really small ya know to make a fair trade. They are dioicous so you need a few of them to get a female.

Don't have a D. machranta seedling yet, could barter for that. Even though I believe D. machranta is a D. zibethinus variety but that's another topic.

Going down to cassowary coast for RFA AGM next weekend so can bring if you want to barter but we got to arrange quickly then.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Not enough Durian Discussion
« on: April 26, 2023, 04:05:46 AM »
Was it Rhizoctonia solani?

Yeah having space for a ladder is really important for me too, hard access just makes it a drag to pick fruit!

Ohh no, Durian in a plastic house! I bet they want organic cert for premium prices and this is the only way they can get something to harvest without pesticides. Soon there might be hydroponic like tomatoes and the taste will be like cassava tainted with sweaty socks. No more fluffy pillows folks!

This is money farming, or bank farming as you pretty much always will need a huge mortgage to start this. Banks aren't happy with people picking durian in ancient food forests.
In 15 years there will be a lot of plastic and rusting steel to deal with... They probably will just digg a hole or burn it...
This is for the Chinese market most likely as the host talks about overseas investment. They are driving the Durian economy like never before.
Durian is adapted to the area, it's not iceberg lettuce! Bro come on!

This might just be a experimental project but It would be interesting to see if they can achieve higher profit margin then the standard orchard over 15 years. I wounder where their break even point price is per kilo of durian??
If it's an area where you get annual floods that are considerable then choose a species that is suitable and not durian, where have common sense gone? And when you mound soil the soil will get dry in times when there is no flooding so irrigation is needed, it's not an efficient use of resources to try and grow durian like this.


Thanks for those links, I think either his mother or father is Thai so he prorobly have visited some great places. Will check out :D

A good post by other forum member about a orchard that is open for visitors:

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Chanthaburi, Thailand
« on: April 26, 2023, 03:37:30 AM »
Thanks for sharing, will add this to my Thailand locations post for future reference.
80-100 bath, wohoho! I used to pay 40 a kilo for good monthong five years ago.

Thats a fully filled monthong!!! What a beauty!

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Not enough Durian Discussion
« on: April 17, 2023, 08:46:46 PM »
Fruit nerd,
As the tree grows it will automatically terminate some of the lateral branches because they are quite close to each other in the vertical plane.
Tree's do this throughout their life.

So eventually (aprox 20 years) you will have more like 60cm-1m in the vertical plane between laterals (this is dependent of total sun exposure, surrounding tree's etc.). I let the tree terminate laterals itself since the extra leaf area (from small laterals) promotes to thicken the tree girth (while alive) which will make a strong trunk and usually contributes to faster fruiting. It's important to maximize photosynthesis, farmers are photosynthesis managers in one way. Cutting of leaf's reduces photo syn.

It's true that pruning laterals often gives more girth to the remaining laterals since they get more sun exposure but this can cause very vigorous laterals, not to good in windy areas. The girth of laterals and the main trunk should not be similar to each other.

In that video he basically takes of laterals that have grown to vigorous in the vertical plane. it would be better to weight them down as you suggest or simply just wait for the pull of the earth to take them closer to ground, fruit load will help that too. Pruning like that will lead to a loot of shoot growth and you just set yourself up for a lot of future pruning. Those laterals should have been corrected earlier when they where younger.

Leave the paper on, no worries.
You could even put paper and mound up arborist mulch around the trunk, it will keep it really comfy.
Don't worry about fungus, it won't damage the trunk in normal circumstances. Just take it of when the newspaper is not keeping a barrier between the trunk and the woodchips.
But I doubt this method will work long term.

Placing some black rocks around the tree will increase night time temp around roots and air and if you put a little pond in front of the sun exposure you will have good reflection during the day to increase canopy temp. the pond will also moderate the temp of the air passing through.
A little wind break on the S-SW side would help to reduce wind but not reduce sun to much since it's moving past N.
Cold winds are a main issue.
I have issue here with hot winds so plant gingers on S-SW side (S face). And keeping the N face open to maximum sun exposure. That's when plants are small. When they are big there is usually a inga or other fabace on the S face. On really young durian I have to plant shade on the N face to reduce burning but this get's cut out eventually.
Start measuring brix of your leaf's and try to increase it, it will increase the freezing point of the sap.

If you use plastic you will likely reduce brix levels of the sap since the suns light will be reduces and filtered. But if you put plastic why not pump some Co2 in there, create some Jurassic mega fauna conditions and grow your durian like crazy!

I am still hoping that some Dutch plastic house farmer will grow durian like he does tomatoes!

agree low hanging fruit might not have the best conditions. Here there is an issue with the fruit spotting bug and they don't fly to well so low small fruits get stung the most.


You can eat the seeds and um . . “collect” them when you get home. 🤣
I am not a lawyer and don’t recommend this option of course.

18 hours and 7 minutes is the average flight time from Singapore Changi to New York John F.
You would probably have 3 inflight meals, and used the Aircraft toilet at least once if not 3 times, for a number 2.
I don't think you can hold out that long to deliver your seeds to the USA.
If anyone is thinking of that method, they may want to take up fasting and Yoga beforehand.
Normal bowel movement from eating till bowel evacuation:::  Googled ::: "After you eat, it takes about six to eight hours for food to pass through your stomach and small intestine. Food then enters your large intestine (colon) for further digestion, absorption of water and, finally, elimination of undigested food. It takes about 36 hours for food to move through the entire colon."

Cassowaries are experts at transporting seeds this way! But it's not 36h.. More like 12h.. Transit time depends on diet.

In my experience yes!
But they have to have their silk weave around the fruit, otherwise there will not enough ants on the fruit.

Just having ant's in the tree will not help.
Green ants really like to cover durian and IME cookatoos don't touch those covered in their silk. But the fruit will be darkened by the aphid activity so if you wanna sell it washing it off is usually needed.

It would be good to list some spots in Thailand where rare fruit tree's can be spotted.
Please post any spots you know of.

Botanical gardens, private gardens open to the public, research stations etc.

I have not visited any of these botanical gardens or research stations so can not say if there is any edible fruit tree's planted. But this is what I found on internet. it seams that some of these places are open to the public :D
I know there will be blogs such as year of the Durian with some location recommendations.

Nong Nooch Tropical Garden, Sattahip, Chon Buri – A large privately owned garden known for its ornamental displays, with some sections dedicated to botanical cataloguing

Queen Sirikit Botanical Garden, Mae Rim, Chiang Mai – The country's first modern, scientifically oriented botanical garden; it serves as the main site and headquarters of the Botanical Garden Organization.

Queen Sirikit Park, Bangkok – A public park operated by the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration, with botanical cataloguing

Phu Khae Botanical Garden, Chaloem Phra Kiat District, Saraburi – The oldest botanical garden in the country, established in 1941 and now operated by the DNP.

Royal Park Rajapruek, Mueang Chiang Mai, Chiang Mai – Originally created for the Royal Flora Ratchaphruek international expo, now operated by the Highland Research and Development Institute

Suan Luang Rama IX, Bangkok – A large public park operated by the Suan Luang Rama 9 Foundation; the grounds include botanical gardens.

Kasertsart University:

Pak Chong Research Station, Nakhon Ratchasima Province
Tubkwang Research Station, Saraburi Province
Lop Buri Research Station, Lop Buri Province
Farming Research and Development Station, Lop Buri Province
Khao Hin Sorn Research Station, Chachoengsao Province
Phetchabun Research Station, Phetchabun Province
Doi Pui Research Station, Chiang Mai Province


The Chumphon Horticulture Research Center can be found on the Bangkok bound side of Highway 41 some 32km south of Chumphon town.
The large white building with a blue roof (picture above) was built as a Tourism Information Center however, what I can only guess, the place has closed due to lack of interest. If you venture 100m pass this building you will come to the entrance of the Research Center.
The centre employs almost 200 people. Its aim is to carry out research into coconuts and Robusta coffee in order to help farmers via advice, modern techniques and young shoots. It covers a surface area of 280 ha.
The centre also deals with ecotourism and anyone interested in this subject can contact the centre at:
Chumphon Horticultural Research Center PO Box 3 Amphoe Sawi Chumphon 86130 Thailand


Chiang Rai Horticultural Research Center is located in Pa Ko Village on Highway 1211 (Den Ha – Dong Mada Route), 6.5 kilometers from town.

The center is open daily from 08.00 a.m. – 04.30 p.m. Houses, tent, and restaurants are available for visitors. Fresh agricultural produce and processed products are on sale.

For further details, contact Tel. +66 5317 0100, +66 5317 0102, Fax: +66 5317 0103


The Safou seeds I had is gone.
Maybe more will come depends on crop.

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