The Tropical Fruit Forum

hey,
I can probobly barter some with you if you are interested.

HAHA hilarious memes!

and that rap is creative!

brian, message forum member maryoto, he has some A lancifolius at the moment. He just haven't posted it yet.

I have cherapu in season but it's more then half a year until then. 20-30 is a lot of seeds, that's about 20-30 fruits because usually only one viable seed.

Going to the RFA Inc AGM weekend in Cassowary coast next weekend so wanted to post some plants that I have up for barter. since some others on the forum might visit too so a good meeting spot.

All plants are in tubes.
I have these plants for barter:

Kadsura
Aglaia korthalsii
Garcinia forbesii
Diospyros glandulosa
Ziricote
Garcinia sp. Buah badung (Maryoto on forum)
Pouteria viridis
Eugenia mcvaughii red type
Ruby supreme guava (fruit fly resistant)
Pink nonii
Garcinia warenii
Elaeagnus pungens
Calabash tree
Eugenia coronata
Malay apple
Burmese grape
Parmentiera cereifera
Garcinia priniana

Seeds or plants I am looking for:
I don't have these.
If you have other seeds or plants please let me know as they might be of interest too and might wanna swap for those no worries

Annona sp.
Annanas sp. (seed only)

Artocarpus sp.

Artocarpus altilis, breadfruit with seeded fruit
Artocarpus altilis, breadfruit with pinkish aril, (Indonesia, Lombok?)
Artocarpus marianensis, Duk Duk (Dug Dug)

Astrocaryum aculeatissimum, Brejaúva (Brazil)
Acrocomia aculeata, Bocaiuva (S. America) (coconut relative)

Bactris concinna (northern Brazil, Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador, Colombia)
Bactris ferruginea, Tucum (eastern Brazil)
Bactris major, Beach Palm (Beach Palm)
Bactris maraja, Maraja (Brazil, Bolivia, Peru, north through Central America to Costa Rica)
Bactris setosa, Tucum (Brazil)

Beilschmiedia anay, Anayo (Guatemala to Mexico)

Brosimum alicastrum, Ramon/Maya nut (C. America)
Bertholletia excelsa, Brazil nut

Canarium album, Chinese White Olive (E. Asia)
Canarium ovatum, Pili, (Philippines, New Guinea)
Canarium odontophyllum var. maroon/crimson/red skin.
Canarium sp.

Carica sp. (not papaya)
Caryocar brasiliense, Pequi (Brazil) (dry, rich taste)
Caryodendron orinocense, Metohuayo/barinas nuts (Peru)

Cocos nucifera var. macapuno coconut (E. Asia)
Cocos nucifera var. spicata dwarf coconut (E. Asia)

Duguetia sp.

Dacryodes buettneri (Cameroon, Equatorial Guinea, Gabon, Congo)
Dacryodes igaganga (Cameroon, Equatorial Guinea, Gabon and possibly Congo)
Dacryodes klaineana (Sierra Leone to Cameroon, south to Gabon.)
Dacryodes macrocarpa (Malaysia, Indonesia, Philippines.)
Dacryodes rostrata, Kembayau (Malaysia, Indonesia, Vietnam, Philippine)

Durio dulcis, gigant fruited variety
Durio lowianus (Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia)
Durio oblongus (Sarawak, Malaysia)
Durio testudinarum, kura-kura (Malaysia, Indonesia)
Durio kinabaluensis, Mount Kinabalu durian (Kinabalu)
Durio crassipes (Tenom and Sipitang areas of Sabah)
Durio grandiflorus (Borneo)

Durio sp. (Any other durio species, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Durio_species)
Durio zibethinus var. thornless (Jakarta Java, Lombok Island Indonesia, Philippines)

Dimocarpus longan subsp. longan var. echinatus

Dilianum indica, Keranji madau

Discorea sp, Yam, (seed not bulb unless in AU)

Eleiodoxa conferta
Eugenia sp.
Euterpe oleracea, Acai palm

Gustavia macarenensis, iniaku (Ecuador)
Garcinia sp.

Pithecellobium dulce, Manila tamarind (Central America)
Platonia insignis, Bacuri (South America)

Inga sp. (not edulis, laurina, thaubuadiana, spectabilis, feuillei)

Musa aiuri/Musa troglodytarum, Fei banana, Mai'A He'I (AU seeds only)
Musa sp. (AU seeds only)

Litsea calophylla, Engkalak relative (Indonesia)
Litsea machilifolia, Engkalak relative (Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia)

Lodoicea maldivica, coco de mer/double coconut (Seychelles)
Lasjia grandis (Macadamia grandis), Barong nut (FNQ, China camp)
Lechytis pisonis, Monkey pot nut

Macadamia sp. (Not integrifolia or tetraphylla)

Mangifera incarpoides (New Guinea)
Mangifera kemanga, Kemang (Indonesia)
Mangifera pentandra (Malaysia, Indonesia)
Mangifera pedicellata (Indonesia)
Mangifera rubropetala (Borneo)
Mangifera sp.

Mauritia Flexuosa, Buriti (S. America)

Myristica fragrans, nutmeg

Persea americana cv. long neck "russel"
Persea americana cv. red skin
Persea schideana, Coyo (southern Mexico and parts of Central America)

Ruby Longan variety (bronze red skin)

Salacca sp., Salak palm (not Salacca edulis or Salacca wallichiana)

Scorodocarpus borneensis (garlic flavoured leafs)
Syzygium aromaticum, Clove

Spondias Tuberosa, Umbu (Brazil)
Talisia sp.
Uvaria sp.

Peace!

tru, yeah that's the same experience I had moldy on the inside.
Chrysophyllum cainito have had high germiantion rate for me, even after 60 days from the fruit dropped of the tree. So I guess that albidum should have at least similar survival rate.

mikesid,
Wow you must have gotten a fresh batch. Did you buy from other seller? Who then? Thanks

Peace

Quote from: cassowary on May 03, 2023, 11:06:33 PM

Absurd!
Where is the evidence that "Plants in rainforests have almost sterile soil "

Maybe "sterile" was not the best word to use. I meant it's generally not much fertile as it's poor in nutrients.
One of the most cited reasons for this is that nutrients are often washed away by rain.

Nutrients are cycled fast by biology, it's released when the biology is terminated such as clear cutting  or a natural disaster. That's why slash and burn gives amazing yields short term.

tru.

2. Rainforest trees anchors themselves with each other, it's a very strong anchour as long they have each other. And some rainforest trees like the the Illawarra flame tree have a persistent taproot.

enkis.
Yeah desert palnts are very efficient becuase the use trichomes to harvest water, gas and nutrients.

"Its as if tropical fruit trees are unable to "do the work" of bringing flowers, leaves at lower temps whereas temperate trees (apples, plums, apricot, pears etc.. ) do that with ease..
What is the science behind this?"
It might have to do with the plants ability to regulate osmosis is a certain way in certain temperature spectrums.

hey,
Are these kemanga seeds fresh and of the white variety shown in the third image??

The one wanii seed I got a while ago never germinated, it was to old I assume.
I have germinated many M. caesia wanii before and in general germination rates are very high.
Some other seeds and Mangifera from RFP have been great and fresh. Thanks bro!
I recommend RFP.

Peace

I have Germinated G. priniana seeds and some tiny seedlings (2cm high). They germinate and grow very slow.
Are you looking for G priniana only? I'v got a nursery too but don't post much of that here.
You can PM if you want. Let me know how many G. Priniana you want, can give you more then 1 for 1 as they are really small ya know to make a fair trade. They are dioicous so you need a few of them to get a female.

Don't have a D. machranta seedling yet, could barter for that. Even though I believe D. machranta is a D. zibethinus variety but that's another topic.

Going down to cassowary coast for RFA AGM next weekend so can bring if you want to barter but we got to arrange quickly then.

Thanks for those links, I think either his mother or father is Thai so he prorobly have visited some great places. Will check out

A good post by other forum member about a orchard that is open for visitors:
https://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=50922.0

Fruit nerd,
As the tree grows it will automatically terminate some of the lateral branches because they are quite close to each other in the vertical plane.
Tree's do this throughout their life.

So eventually (aprox 20 years) you will have more like 60cm-1m in the vertical plane between laterals (this is dependent of total sun exposure, surrounding tree's etc.). I let the tree terminate laterals itself since the extra leaf area (from small laterals) promotes to thicken the tree girth (while alive) which will make a strong trunk and usually contributes to faster fruiting. It's important to maximize photosynthesis, farmers are photosynthesis managers in one way. Cutting of leaf's reduces photo syn.

It's true that pruning laterals often gives more girth to the remaining laterals since they get more sun exposure but this can cause very vigorous laterals, not to good in windy areas. The girth of laterals and the main trunk should not be similar to each other.

Jim,
In that video he basically takes of laterals that have grown to vigorous in the vertical plane. it would be better to weight them down as you suggest or simply just wait for the pull of the earth to take them closer to ground, fruit load will help that too. Pruning like that will lead to a loot of shoot growth and you just set yourself up for a lot of future pruning. Those laterals should have been corrected earlier when they where younger.

ohip,
Leave the paper on, no worries.
You could even put paper and mound up arborist mulch around the trunk, it will keep it really comfy.
Don't worry about fungus, it won't damage the trunk in normal circumstances. Just take it of when the newspaper is not keeping a barrier between the trunk and the woodchips.
But I doubt this method will work long term.

Placing some black rocks around the tree will increase night time temp around roots and air and if you put a little pond in front of the sun exposure you will have good reflection during the day to increase canopy temp. the pond will also moderate the temp of the air passing through.
A little wind break on the S-SW side would help to reduce wind but not reduce sun to much since it's moving past N.
Cold winds are a main issue.
I have issue here with hot winds so plant gingers on S-SW side (S face). And keeping the N face open to maximum sun exposure. That's when plants are small. When they are big there is usually a inga or other fabace on the S face. On really young durian I have to plant shade on the N face to reduce burning but this get's cut out eventually.
Start measuring brix of your leaf's and try to increase it, it will increase the freezing point of the sap.

If you use plastic you will likely reduce brix levels of the sap since the suns light will be reduces and filtered. But if you put plastic why not pump some Co2 in there, create some Jurassic mega fauna conditions and grow your durian like crazy!

I am still hoping that some Dutch plastic house farmer will grow durian like he does tomatoes!

Finca,
agree low hanging fruit might not have the best conditions. Here there is an issue with the fruit spotting bug and they don't fly to well so low small fruits get stung the most.

Peace

In my experience yes!
But they have to have their silk weave around the fruit, otherwise there will not enough ants on the fruit.

Just having ant's in the tree will not help.
Green ants really like to cover durian and IME cookatoos don't touch those covered in their silk. But the fruit will be darkened by the aphid activity so if you wanna sell it washing it off is usually needed.

The Safou seeds I had is gone.
Maybe more will come depends on crop.