Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Jack, Nipomo

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 21
I have a Randia megacarpa collected in Mexico, but it has never fruited nor produced flowers.  I did eat the fruit in Baja CA and collected the seeds.  How old does Randia need to be to fruit?

Tried this many years ago going both ways.  Lived a short while and died.  However, I plan to try black sapote grafted on a persimmon this year.  It has been done before as I saw the lush green branch on a semi dormant persimmon on a fellow CRFGs tree.  Anyone else?

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Leo Manuel’s passing
« on: June 03, 2022, 08:57:16 AM »
So sorry to hear of Leo's passing.  He was one of the pioneers who kick-started many of us into this adventure with plants.  As with many of the pioneers, he lives on in the many plants he originated and contributed.

For those who have an extended collection of mulberries, how do they compare to M. nigra "Kaester" the black mulberry.  My tree is loaded with fruit, not ripe yet, but excellent in flavor with a bit of tartness.  I was under the impression that the black mulberry was considered best by many.  My tree was sourced from Nelson Westree in CA and is loaded with 1 1/2 inch unripened fruit.  No bird activity, yet.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Heat mat experiences
« on: April 17, 2022, 10:07:03 AM »
Had a thermostatically controlled heat mat burn a hole in the mat and left a burned spot on the greenhouse wooden shelf.  Internal part apparently shorted out.  It had been in use over 2 years.  Replaced it with another, but aware of the potential danger.  It is not near the house.  Mat does speed up germination of seeds and offer warmth during winter for sensitive plants.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Lara Farms tree source
« on: March 12, 2022, 09:07:27 AM »
Based on TFF member Kona Fruit Farm's posting on Lara Farms, I ordered two Pickering Mangos from them.  They arrived yesterday from Florida to CA in excellent shape.  1 gallon pots, very well packed, nicely grafted trees.  Good price, reasonable shipping.  I have been planting mangos for a couple of years counting on "global warming" and so far they are doing well.  Many are dwarfs and will remain in 15 gal pots, but half are planted out.  I have plants from other Fla vendors, but am very impressed with price, quality, and packing from Lara Farms.  These 1 gal trees will spend a year or so in the greenhouse before planting out.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Avocado poll
« on: March 07, 2022, 01:08:32 PM »
MALAMA   Malama is a new, high quality cultivar developed by the University of Hawaii> The fall ripening, pyriform purple fruits are thick fleshed and the flavor rich and nutty. Type B flower. (Frankie's Nursery, Waimanalo, Hawaii,1999)

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Puebla Avocado Article
« on: February 22, 2022, 08:50:10 AM »
I have it here too.  Poor producer also.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: avocado question
« on: February 13, 2022, 08:46:33 AM »
Just wait until July, all will be well.  Mine look terrible this time of year, but those leaves will fall and be replaced.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Avocado Scion Bud Maturity
« on: February 02, 2022, 06:05:38 PM »
Called the intercalation, the ring of buds is between different flushes of the branch.  These buds stay active, unlike lateral buds that lose their vitality.  Even pruning just above the ring of buds will result in these buds growing.  When grafting there are multiple buds located there that readily take off.  When cutting scionwood I look for this ring of buds to assure viability.  I have grafted different plants with buds missing or dried up.  They are "blind" and the scion will stay green, but not grow anymore. 

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Avocado Scion Bud Maturity
« on: February 01, 2022, 12:10:47 PM »
Not trying to be an expert here, just have many years of screwing things up and gaining experience.  You don't need the flowers, don't want fruit set on a new graft.  Just remove them when you can identify them as flowers, but individually.  Any flowers and other growth are dependent upon your new graft union, which may not be complete at this point.  Flowers will not do anything for the graft union, new leaves will.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Avocado Scion Bud Maturity
« on: January 31, 2022, 07:44:47 PM »
It can take and be fine.  Obviously you don't want flowers now, so carefully remove them when you identify them.  There will be a successive leaf coming after the flowers.  Just that the energy is taken by producing unneeded flowers.  Just not an optimum situation. 

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Avocado Scion Bud Maturity
« on: January 31, 2022, 08:10:01 AM »
Looks like what you have are flower buds.  Flowers will come out and expend energy from the scion.  Eventually a leaf will emerge after the flowers, but not a desirable situation.  I look for the little "ring" of small buds on most scion cuttings as they are always leafing buds and there are many.

Years ago I had a huge Paw Paw (Asimina triloba) which was a seedling from Corwin Davis.  Great fruit, quite productive.  I also had many kinds of annonas.  So seeing similarities in the flowering I tried pollinating the annonas with Paw Paw pollen, and conversly, the Paw Paw with annona pollen.  Obviously genetic variability kept me from any success.  Not so much a a hint of a fruit set.  I tried for a couple of years, but moved on.  My experience should not preclude anyone from attempting this as strange hybrids exist as a result of intent and/or accident.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Sick Macadamia?
« on: January 17, 2022, 08:43:59 AM »
Proteoid roots in the macadamia are characteristic of most species of the Proteaceae.  These are highly efficient roots evolved to survive in very poor soils.  The addition of fertilizer can overwhelm the plant and simply be toxic.  Of my 40 or so trees of different varieties, they rarely see any fertilizer.  Their soil is just old beach sand (with a slight acidic flavor)

Besides cutting back the original tree to force growth in the grafts, lateral grafted branches need to be staked up vertically to encourage growth.  Grafts on vertical branches respond better as a result of geotropism.  Seedling roots go down, shoots go up as they respond to gravity.

As with most fruits, the selected variety can be important.  Feijoas vary greatly in size and flavor.  Most of the Edenvale varieties like Edenvale late, Improved Coolidge (selected by Frank Serpa), are excellent if you can still find them.  Triumph and Mammoth from New Zealand have excellent flavor and quite large.  So many feijoas are seedlings and of ornamental value only.  The selected varieties are worth getting.

I have been drying Hachiya persimmons for backpacking and found that the drying process eliminates the astringency, and they are easier to slice when firm, not jelly-like. 

Owen, climate is changing....when we first moved to Nipomo local nurseries did not think we could grow avocados.  We consistently had low 20's during the winter with long duration.  Between freezing years I grew up different tender trees to the point of having some success.  We used covers, return stack heaters (lots of diesel), and sprinklers.  We therefore had limited success.  Now, we see bare 28 degree winters rarely, short duration, don't see any frost damage.  One year 45 yrs ago we had 17 degrees, killing many eucalyptus growing in the area.  Our 40 varieties of avocados are mature, about 45 macadamias doing well, and white, yellow, black sapotes undamaged.  Last year I planted out 6 mangos, put another 8 in the greenhouse.  All will be out this Spring.  I did encircle and cover the outside mangos for 2 nights last year.  I will be planting out some other subtropicals this Spring also like Monkey Orange, Nance, and two lychees (Already have had Longans out for years).  Don't know how cold you get in Atascadero, but life is short and planting out these "rare" fruits is a gamble.  I'm more worried about our reduced rainfall.  Then again, now maybe I've brought down the gods of the freezes as a result of the aforementioned.

You might want to wait until January or February to do your grafting.  The CRFG chapter in San Luis Obispo has a scion exchange then and there will be avocado scion wood available (if it is held this year...Covid)

Also, many of us have experienced greater successes by grafting in Jan or Feb, and greater failures at other times.  Today, in Nipomo it will be 81 degrees...not good for a newly attached scion.
 Also our humidity is down in the 20s. There are many avocado varieties growing in our local area (thanks to Julie and UCR and others) and they tend to show up at the scion exchange.

One issue grafting a larger stock (rootstock) is, as spaugh mentioned, the sideways weight of the growing scion pushing the graft union out.  A cleft graft on one side of the stock can connect well, leaving the other side of the cleft to dry out and die.  There are remedies for both, but require continued attention.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Best avocado
« on: November 09, 2021, 01:32:41 PM »
I'm in CA and have many avocados, but Choquette does very well, is quite a large avocado, and good flavored.  It is one of my favorites.  Keep the Choquette going (and away from the deer)

With a number of varieties of cherimoya, atemoya I have tried puffing pollination, and attracting potential pollinators.  Scattered ripe and rotting fruit beneath cherimoya trees that were in blossom showing both female and male stages.  Attracted lots of fruit flies and other insects, many of which were attracted to the receptive flowers on the cherimoyas.  The end result of my fooling around was fruiting in many cases, but no fruit were completely pollinated and were misshapen and downright ugly.  Went back to doing it with brush resulting in complete fruit.

Here's one that I've used over 30 years.  Tough, lots of leverage, different sized nuts.  Made out of steel and a coarse cut file for one jaw, which holds the nut from flying out.  Two different sized nuts are shown.  Easily made cheaply by one familiar with metal work and welding.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Protecting Avocados
« on: October 12, 2021, 07:18:54 PM »
As an example, we have over 50 macadamia trees in my variety collection, around 45 avocados varieties in the collection, Number of white, yellow, green sapotes, jaboticabas, not counting rarer fruiting trees all happy on the 1 1/2 acres.  Been collecting over many years and most are mature trees. Started with CRFG when we had around 100 members, Dense plantings are intentional for watering and potential frost protection.  No fruits are for marketing, just a shared collection with others for propagation.  Thinning would make the trees unhappy, and me too.  The rats are a problem, a challenge, but no great loss of fruit nor nuts since the products are not to be marketed.  Our herd of raccoons seem to enjoy the fallen fruits, possums too.  If the rats damaged the trees it would be a serious issue, but they do not.

Again, if they have access to your house or attic (called attic rats, palm rats, tree rats...Rattus rattus) you have a problem.  Our neighbor had them in the attic, heard them at night, put poison up there, smelled the dead bodies for months.  Traps work, are laborious, but make for decent disposal.  Amazon has some fine metal rat traps that will last.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Protecting Avocados
« on: October 11, 2021, 08:45:28 AM »
Thanks for the suggestions RE: banding tree trunks.  We are on 1 1/2 acres and so heavily planted with fruit and nut trees that the trees touch branches.  Rats simply move from tree to tree.  They don't need to ever touch the ground.  I can identify their favorites (and infestations) by the "chippings" at the foot of the tree.  The orchard is full of mature trees, some about 45 years old.  I have no problem outsmarting the creatures and keeping the population down given enough effort.  However my neighbors readily contribute more tree rats to our property.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Protecting Avocados
« on: October 10, 2021, 08:58:51 AM »
Have been fighting rats for years, avocado and macadamia mainly.  No poisons due to secondary poisoning of other animals.  I use a 6 ft pole, with a good quality rat trap (metal galvanized or SS, wood deteriorates) and a hook at the top to hang it in the tree.  Baited with a shelled macadamia nut, it is very successful.  However, birds were often caught so the rap is surrounded by hardware cloth with holes to give rats access.  Rats have learned over the years requiring refreshing the bait (mac nuts, nothing else works reliably).  Then they developed the ability to remove the nut from the trap without setting it off.  Now I use a thin wire to wire the nut to the trap.  Now they have figured out how to gently eat the nut leaving the wire intact.  Lots of avocados and macadamias, but they also can enter your attic and/or other structures.  Interesting how they eat citrus (sweet fruit, peel of lemons).  Also have had them girdle a small tree.  Nocturnal habits preclude shooting them, but each morning is trap checking time.  I have about 15 traps in trees (and barn) and can get 3-4 a night at times.  Used to bury dead bodies (rats) but now leave them in single place for other animals to remove nightly.  Game camera shows raccoons and possums, sometime a cat taking them away.  Crow will take one during the day.  Goal is to greatly reduce numbers, they'll win eventually by sheer numbers of reproduction.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 21
SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk