Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - palmcity

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 27
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Help picking M4
« on: May 16, 2022, 08:57:33 PM »
Way early here so memory & just IMO from past 2 yrs on 2 trees only.

Fruit stays green to a hint of lightening even when ripe.
Gently compress the fruit when you think it may be ripe and if softness/depressed area pick it.
Often the fruit falls off the tree and is usually a little soft give.

Once you are successful in picking a few ripe or picking them up when they fall off and they taste good, the others follow and all becomes easier in identifying which ones can be picked firmer and will ripen at room temperature.

I usually take the fruit inside and let it sit a few days. I believe it turns from a pineapple taste to more of a coconut taste the longer you wait.... Until it rots... (eat a little away from the rot and often you will get some good taste)
I also like to transfer them into the refrigerator after a few days inside the house to let them stay cool and sort of shrink/shrivel/get more concentrated .... Once again, coconut taste seems to strengthen and pineapple tastes lessens_

Forgot, skin is very thick/ very protective. Thickest skin I remember on a mango, sort of like cowhide as easy to pull off without tearing and of course eat the inner portion next to the skin

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Thinning Mahachanok mango
« on: May 10, 2022, 10:17:01 PM »
I have a few Maha with fruit almost to the ground. They flowered well and set well. I keep noticing far more fruit set to the east side of mangos this is what I have generally seen over the years. My hypothesis is that early morning easterly sun burns off moisture leading to decreased fungal problems on the panicles.

Those of you who mention high producing branches I ask if these are mainly on thE east side of the tree?
Unfortunately the West side had by far more mangos on the limb that fell off than anywhere else on the tree. The rest of the tree has mangos on all sides & top but much less sparse.

I need to go outside to look at some trees but most are multigrafted with a mix on sides so hard to say.

The only place in my yard that I noticed increased fruit set was near concrete and/or near my house so I am also guessing perhaps a drying effect on the blossoms to help slow fungus & increase fruit set or just getting extra minerals like calcium from the concrete. Have you any plantings close to house/concrete?

We primarily get a east wind and I am assuming yours is primarily a west wind and perhaps that plays a factor in decreasing fungus on sides of the tree?

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Thinning Mahachanok mango
« on: May 10, 2022, 02:15:34 PM »
another camera had some orig. pics. about 28 on ground visible and about 10 more under limb and in canopy of dropped limb.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Thinning Mahachanok mango
« on: May 10, 2022, 01:59:36 PM »
This is the picture of the tree that lost 30 to 40 Maha mangos as described above. It is now crying sap and healing slowly.


Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Beware of these fertilizers
« on: May 09, 2022, 07:16:24 AM »
City folks are so brain washed that when I tell them we drink/use water straight from the well they can't believe it.  Usual comment goes something like this "you mean you don't treat it to purify it?"  My reply is usually "no, the crap you drink needs sanitizers and chemicals and such to make it publicly safe".
Similar analogy with a tropical fish in a bowl in your house. Test quality of your city drinking water daily by first refilling your fishbowl with fresh city water. Then watch it swim before drinking your water... lol.. Don't do this in front of your guests as they might not like seeing a floating fish.

Good .org on other dangers in many city drinking water supplies:::

Halogens are very reactive elements: The halogen elements are fluorine (F), chlorine (Cl), bromine (Br), iodine (I), astatine (At), and tennessine (Ts)
What are the three characteristics of halogens?
Summary of Common Properties
They have very high electronegativities.
They have seven valence electrons (one short of a stable octet).
They are highly reactive, especially with alkali metals and alkaline earths. ...
Because they are so reactive, elemental halogens are toxic and potentially lethal.
More items...•Nov 6, 2019   .........Google

So why does  California not put a warning on all faucets of city water::: potentially toxic?  lol...
Just kidding...

body percent composition:::

(I removed the star dust garbage as did not read the previous copy paste lol)


Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Beware of these fertilizers
« on: May 08, 2022, 12:54:02 PM »
This was shared on the fig forum. Some “Eco/natural/organic” fertilizers have harmful chemicals in them. I think many of us are aware of this issue already but I thought I’d post about it anyways in the hopes that it will reach people that didn’t know.

Devils Advocate,
1."While some fertilizers are all-natural and good for the ground, a recent study found concerning levels of harmful chemicals in a handful of popular fertilizers. The chemicals not only last in the environment for decades, but they can also affect your health,"
Too much or too little of anything will kill plants and people... Do not overfertilize or give too much of any ingredient or it will die. Ex. nitrogen excess plants die, water excess plants & humans die if you drink pure no electrolyte distilled water gallon after gallon & humans die with excess O2, .... etc. etc. etc.
2. "Levels of harmful chemicals last in the environment for decades"....Pretty scary writing lol.... Well lets really look at experiments on limited breakdown in environment   and elimination in animals (which also does occur)  :::   

7.1 Absorption, Distribution and Excretion
In background populations males have a higher PFAAS in low serum concentrations. Guess is menstruation offers femals an additional elimination route vs. males.

11.2.6 Environmental Abiotic Degradation
Vapor-phase of perfluorooctane sulfonic acid with photochemically produced hydroxyl radicals estimate atmospheric half life about 115 days.
Lab studies perfluorooctane sulfonic acid was shown to be degraded in groundwater samples by onolysis (ultrasound).

11.2.21 Body Burden
Widespread blood levels reported even in apparently pristine environments.

NHANES report mean perfluorooactane sulfonic acid concentration in US male serum samples has FALLEN from 34ng/ml in 1999-2000 to 17.5 ng/ml in 2007-2008 ............. Female serum 30ng/ml 1999-2000 to 11ng/ml in 2007-2008

I forgot the location but in the paper IMO 3m has stopped production except for a few essential products, some years ago.

I do not know if I would place this particular possible toxin above hundreds of others in our environment today, especially with the low amounts being absorbed potentially in plants and then into other animals etc.

Remember, too much or too little of anything can kill us... Know your risks and live life accordingly...

I do think all sink faucets in California should have a warning stating warning possible carcinogen as water has been sitting in pipes with unknown joint connections/chemicals/pipe ingredients/pump mechanisms/water origination quality at source of pumping. Drink at your own risk...

Woops, dropped this one out of sequence
7.2 Biological Half-life (time to drop levels by 50%).... Trout 8.4 days in muscle and 20.4 days in liver. Rats = 7.5 days......... 3M workers retired long term exposure now this is rather significant (do not recommend working with this at 3m) half life for pfos 8.67 years.

P.S. Yours Truly::: Devils Advocate.


The most frustrating sight for me to see in my yard is a 12 ft tall tree 10 ft wide with ZERO mangos on it

The trees that I multiple grafted years ago are not part of the fruitless mango tree collection in my yard today.

My plans are to top work 5/6 of canopy of the fruitless trees with 1 or more typically productive variety in my yard. Any tree not bearing in a given year is wanting my grafting ability and I am doing it now. Trees grafted last few days pineapple pleasure, coconut cream, cotton candy (it bore good 3 years but nothing this year so I will graft a small part of it more like 1/4 to 1/3), a few M4 with low fruit set will also do 1/4 to 1/3  grafts... Phoenix is going to be 5/6 grafted as too pathetic in my yard being zero fruit 5 yrs (like pineapple pleasure also 5/6 grafted to new varieties).

The fear is that you will perhaps not have any of your favorite variety due to the other graft competition/shading/etc..... That fear is gone in me as I much prefer something on the tree vs. NOTHING.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Thinning Mahachanok mango
« on: May 05, 2022, 10:26:27 PM »
My Maha 2nd bloom causes some concern due to heavy fruiting ;D (see pic). Should I thin out some?

Concern is due to heavy fruiting.... So the guess is your concerned about the weight of the fruit possibly causing llimbs to break.....

The problem is a poor picture of the limb base and angle of bend and how much it has bent to possibly answer your question to your particular tree.... The shot up in the air does nothing to show the base of the branch nor the angle from the trunk...

All I can hellp you with is to tell you that if you have high winds hitting the tree limbs, there will probably be a high chance of limb loss and 20+ mangos falling with the limb or limbs....

I had winds about 2 weeks ago and a large limb in good shape coming off the trunk at about a 135 degree from ground angle holding about 30 to 40 maha's fell off the tree separating cleanly at the trunk.... So if your limb is bending... consider reducing weight if winds are expected.... unless you like to roll the dice...

Can you keep Mango trees small forever and expect consistent production?

Can keep Mango trees small forever? Yes all can by trimming/cutting/decrease fertilizer/etc. etc. etc.

All can have expectations.... Few to none will be lucky enough to have consistent yearly production as too many variables & unknowns... Regardless of tree size.

However, keeping the trees small forever will guarantee a long term lower production than with a larger tree over the years unless you have many small tress vs. 1 large tree etc. Ex. My pickering stayed small for 5 years. I finally started fertilizing it more and thus a temporary yearly less fruit production per canopy area and now more growth finally. I will probably cut back fertilizing next year to have a larger small tree produce a few more mangos than 3 yrs ago with the smaller canopy when it was loaded & small but actual mangos were few.

You can tell when you've read too much on this forum over the years...
The previous long methodical youtube video of 39 minutes 52 seconds becomes a good way to absorb many ZZZZ  as I could not make it through without skipping rapidly rapidly through it to the END... lol

The 13 days ago video with Walter Zill is much more relevant to this Topic...
IMO Walter shows trees large & small and talks of his lowered fruit production this year. IMO he also mentions that it is more important for him to have a tree producing good  fruit than one of the believed "best" tasting varieties that seldom produces fruit for him.... lol... IMO I agree with him ... Really really funny when IMO he indicates he top worked one of the best tasting varieties recently... (IMO did not want to disclose which one lol as some are still selling it)

Maybe my opinion was wrong, so Go to YOUTUBE type Walter Zill Recent and it will pop up fast  lol...

Digi   Digital   Garden...... Entertaining pics. Great job as we all know it takes time to snap & upload pics so thanks.

Your knowledge is obviously far greater than mine on these plants. If you have time to comment under or above the pictures as to how you view the editable fruit/plant tasting, that would motivate me more to look up additional information on each plant picture.

The world may be looked at as a huge Pot with a variety of ingredients. Some people add sugar to the pot, some add pepper and spices, some add salt. Then there are a few that just like to::: Stir The Pot.   

Do you guys just slurp down the whole slimy mess of flesh and seeds like an oyster?  I love the taste of passionfruit but the appearance and texture is repulsive to me.

Occasionally I slowly sip on it like a lemon.

Usually, I Mix the seeds/pulp/juice in water and stir and add sweeteners. Very similar to making lemonaid.

In Colombia at cafes, I would order the drink and they gave it quite a bit more foam head which I preferred but not sure what they used other than the blender and perhaps more sugar.

My son ate so many mulberries the other day he got sick to his stomach, and has had cramps and been on the toilet a bunch for several days.  He was feeling dizzy and had a headache and cramps like when we had covid, i thought he was getting covid again.  But then it turned into several days of stomach cramps.
Sorry to hear of the mulberry overdosing.

Typical problems that our families/friends have experienced::: Loose stools with some having diarrhea like, Great fear when people see their stool go from brown to black fearing bleeding. The mulberry if black Tice definitely turns the stool black so don't worry as no increase chance of bleeding as far as I know. High levels of sugars causing cramping but none of us are known diabetic and diabetics should eat small amounts of fruit while checking glucose levels.

I usually tell people if you've been constipated and want plant ruffage (probably can skip your metamucil )::: Eat the stems & fruit of the mulberry. If your normal and don't want to have diarrhea, eat small amounts or avoid the extra ruffage of the stems if possible. 

I guess if you juice and strain them and let the kids have the juice like grape juice it might be easier to monitor amount consumed and eliminating the extra stem ruffage.... Blood glucose testing machines are easy to use and years ago (last checked by me) they are very quick and relatively easy to use to get immediate and morning blood glucose levels.  (I believe too high or too low glucose levels might increase chance of headache... But many other things also might increase odds of a headache... Drink plenty of water as the kidneys are great filters  when supplied ample water and regulate electrolytes etc very efficiently...

If you give your family vitamins/minerals etc., you might consider increasing calcium supplementation as the side effect is often constipation.... This might help with the diarrhea safely if following normal maximum daily allowances or more if prescriber allows...

Sc4001992,  I have never had that many mulberries per limb... You are definitely doing something right. (I'm sure a lot right).

"Try it .... You will Like It...."
Green mangos and ham... I jest.
The fruit store where I go sells green mangos, and I always wondered what to do with them. I will try the boiled green mango pie now!

 :) You will be happy....  :)  (I included a picture of the pie above...

For Florida, this could easily turn into a good agricultural application of mango use. If boiled, the starch/sugars turn into a jelly consistency that I think could be used for anything that lemons/limes would normally be used.

lol... Since this idea is not eligible for a paten. I doubt Coca-Cola (owner of minute maid) will ever send a thankyou check .... lol... If this works in drinks/foods/etc. etc.
Alcoholic beverage & green mango juice from the boiled green mango... lol...

Of course, I'm already planning a large boiling of the mangos for a 5 gallon production of unripe/green/ lemony tasting mango wine from it... I bet it will be great...   ;)  (I already have 5 gallons from a few yrs. back from ripened mangos & it gets better by the day and amount drank lol).

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Ways to Eat & Enjoy dropped Green Mangos
« on: April 08, 2022, 02:34:52 PM »
This past Wed. a storm came through dropping many many mangos from the trees before maturity.

1. The strong lemony taste with salt etc. is one way to eat them.

2. Some varieties like sweettart etc. will ripen to a limited degree in a week if desired to ingest at that time.

3. My spouse took many of the green mangos and boiled them for about 40 minutes till the peeling went from green to a yellow tint. Once cooled spooning this out is a gel with very strong lemon to Key lime taste. It sort of reminds me of a strong jelled yogart.
 A. She used this to make a mango pie that taste like a key lime or lemon pie. Very good... Ingredients sweetened condensed milk + Cream Cheese + boiled green mango filling... You Must Make It... You will Not Be Disappointed...
 B. She also made a lemon pound cake using boiled green mango + yellow cake mix..... Also Very very good.
 C. Freeze it and use it later for anything that lemons or limes would normally be required... lol... (No longer a need for me to grow difficult citrus in S. Fl... YEA)......

Try it .... You will Like It....
This picture has a little of the pie filling seen from yesterday (I ate the rest). The mango next to the filling is 1/2 piece that was cooked & in refrigerator. But you can see the jelled appearance if zoom in. Apparently the cooking takes the starch & sugars and converts it into a jelly. Make sure soft before stopping the boil.

To my surprise my wife made another pie today so here is a picture of it with a piece of the remaining pound cake wrapped (I ate the rest lol).

I walked around about 15 Tice Mulberry trees picking some of the new fruit this year. The first week seemed to come later than prior years but I did not recheck dates. I thought it was normally from end of March to end of May here in S. Fl. but maybe I forgot...

Back to Topic: Search for the Best Tasting Mulberry???........... If your really looking for that best tasting mulberry, Skip the first 2 weeks of picking... Why? It's similar to the start of mango season & many other fruits as the tree is rapidly growing initially putting out new leaves and fruit while depleting stored up sugars.... Thus the fruit is NOT as good tasting the first 2 weeks IMO.

IMO for your search for the Best, look for the smaller trees and avoid the huge trees with layers of limbs where the sun does not hit the lower branches much if at all. These lower and shaded middle limbs usually have bland insipid fruit... I usually go to the trees less than 12 ft high with plenty of sun hitting the leaves & fruit for the best tasting mulberries.

So, during my walk I sampled over 40 mulberries. IMO about 35 were insipid and not the best tasting Tice can be. Only about 5 seemed close to prior years quality mid season... But every day should be better... Until the last few weeks of mulberry season... Why??? The worms overtake the fruit faster than we can harvest it. You might not experience this with only a tree or two... Just a few FYI's.... lol

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Mango scion question
« on: March 31, 2022, 08:37:18 PM »
Can scions be made from growth between nodes?
Planning on cutting a couple nodes down on some varieties for lower branching.
Yes... But a scion with a bud already on it would be preferred with higher odds of success.

I have grafted a scion with a bud and the bud dried up and I thought the attempt had failed. Then I went back a few months later and the scion was grown around by the tree and it was still green..... But now it is hard to get the little area to bud  especially if only 1/2 inch long.... I experimented and took a chance and topped the three with the 1/2 inch stick with a dried dead tip where the former bud had failed... Luckily, the tree initiated a bud on this area and now 1 1/2 years later I have a grafted tree.... This is not a preferred grafting method as it is hard to get a new bud to form unless the upper growth is severely cut back or off...

The Tice seems to be consistent in taste, sweet with a little tartness so I will be keeping that one around. I also like the neat color it turns (yellow/red) before it turns all red. Here in CA my Tice tree doesn't get as large or grow vigorous like the Shangri La or the Black Pakistan. I have 3-5 branches of Tice grafted, it may just need another few years before it takes off. I got my scionwood from Frank (FLnative) a few years ago.

Over 15 years ago the name tag from WPB Plant sale in Dreyer Park said East Coast Mulberry... lol....

It looks like Tice & Grows fast/easy here in Florida.

I like eating them first picking solid black very sweet (fully ripe). After about a hour, I switch to red (not quite fully ripe). The reds give a tart taste... A little later I'll usually get 1/2 mouth full of reds with the blacks etc. etc. etc... Two different taste profiles are easily obtained with the Tice mulberry at varying ripeness...

I have eaten some of the black pakistan at Mikes Trees & More and could not tell much of a difference in this black vs. Tice black. I did not eat enough to want to switch to under ripe black pakistan so I have no idea if tart or not.

One thing that I have not seen mentioned here is the effect of girdling branches. Just for fun, we girdled a single limb on my large Nam Doc Mai tree. That branch (aprox 3" in diameter) was about 25% of the tree canopy but set as many fruit as the rest of the tree put together and bloomed about a month earlier. I think proper application of girdling will have a positive effect on fruit production. The article I went by was for lychee in India, but it appears that the basic principle applies to mango as well. I will summarize here: girdle in September 1/8" or less all the way through cambium. Only girdle trees with branches 3" in diameter or more (Large trees!). Don't girdle more than 50% of the tree any given year.

Similar thoughts here (but not necessarily so precise in tools used and directions... lol) ... I've done some whacking on trees... I've had some success on nongrafted seedling mango trees setting fruit earlier than I would normally expect....

I read an article once about how bud wood can revert to the juvenile phase, if a tree is grafted and bud wood is taken from the vigorous growth and grafted again before it can bloom. The more generations that occur without blooming, the more likely it is for the reversion to happen. I think that may be one of the issues people are dealing with if they have a tree that does not bloom for several years and then fruits normally. I suspect this may be the case with some of the newer Zill mangoes that had shortages of bud wood and high levels of demand. Some of the other trees sound like they have disease issues or another problem.

Interesting possibility......

I actually think a decrease of sunlight due to tree competition shading as the most likely reason for the delaying of bloom on my 2 of 15 sweet tart trees. But it is definitely not the problem with my phoenix tree as about 13 ft tall and about 12 ft broad planted in full sun exposure.

I am very happy that one of my favorite tasting mangos (Sweet Tart) is Also probably my most dependable producer in my yard. Nice having many delicious mangos being so easy to grow......

Updated::: Nope,,, Glen is more dependable in my yard...

IMO someone with 3 or less trees only in their yard needs to be informed of the odds of zero production for many years with some varieties. (The other answer is of course plant more trees as I have thus no problem with a year of a variety not producing)

Another tree that Alex does well with production in prior years posts is Iman Pasand....
In my yard, it flowers and sets small fruit every year. Recently I have gotten some to maturity. However all of my mature fruit are cracked.... Thus a caveat to Iman Pasand at least in my more fungus prone area.

P.S... lol.. Back to Topic::: Please post any of your consistent fruiting Failures.....

Maybe it has to do with calcium levels? Here is blurb on calcium and benefits to mangos evidently cement/concrete pads can leech calcium into soil, so maybe those trees nearest the pads have more calcium.

I like your thought as identical to mine when I saw the picture years ago....

But as mentioned plenty of other possibilities (as well as Arizona low humidity)...
Also as mentioned by many, low fertilization once the tree is big enough (in most opinions) to hold more fruit & ween it down to low to zero nitrogen...

I still like the theory like the guys on youtube beating their trees to get them to bear fruit better (assuming no infections/beetles/etc. enter & kill it.. lol)... Put a tree under stress and it "knows" it's end time might be close & Thus it's time to fruit (if enough resources are left & available for it to do so).

I don't think enough thought has been applied to the effects of minerals llike boron/calcium/magnesium/copper/ etc./etc. etc. as not only do the plants need them but too much can kill them (I love the narrow therapeutic index of life)...

Low doses & plant is happy & growing.... High doses and plant thinks it might die (and it might) and thus the bloom response if able.... Interesting.... Perhaps... Hard to tell how much we or the trees need .... Hard to tell if growth or reproduction are your current priorities... lol..... Tooo much or too little of anything can usually Kill Us or Trees.... Life is fickle.... 

You can tell I'm retired.... lol... Got the old noggin turning in the circles of life....

P.S. If anyone is reading.... Feel FREE to GET Back on Topic... lol...::: Fruit retention after bloom to maturity factoring in ONLY planting location....

Both my sweet tarts and my NDM haven’t even flushed yet.  I also think that individual cultivation practices may have an effect beyond what we realize, such as what/when if any any fertilizer is used, timing of pruning, location of trees/exposure to microclimate differences, amount of sunlight.
Similar climate as I'm in Palm City also... Just walked out and 13 of 15 trees with at least 1 limb of sweet tart grafted on it are with fruit. 2 trees have not yet bloomed this year.... Both of these 2 trees are in more shade than the other 13 trees. 1 has a large banana tree competing for sunshine. The other is partially blocked by a live oak limb. Both trees also produced mature fruit last year....

For my 2 trees it looks like less sun exposure to be the reason for the delayed or skipped bloom this year...

IMO my mango trees planted closer to the house/concrete seem to have a lower rate of fungal issues with a higher rate of mango retention to maturity. I assume this to be due to the drying effect of concrete.

I keep thinking of the LZ picture from Arizona near the pool and concrete with the abundance of Mangos growing on it. I believe simon_grow posted it years ago.

What success have you had in planting near water/ponds/low lands/hills/rocks/forests/ under tall trees/ etc. etc. etc. and seeming to have a lower incidence of fungal issues from bloom to fruit maturation.

You're not alone. This is my six-year-old coconut cream mango tree and still no fruit. If flowers well each year but still no production. I have already begun to top work it.

Will be interesting to see if anything happens this year.


Coconut Cream Mango Tree (3-25-2022)

My only coconut cream produced mature fruit in year 2.... Then zero mature fruit the following 3 years.. A bloom has pasted this year with none hanging at this time so low odds this year....

On the other hand, my LZ trees had a few years with zero fruit but now that they are larger, they seem to be holding a few more.

I rechecked my pineapple pleasure and Phoenix & found 1 very small pea size fruit with a small black dot on the phoenix (I will spray today)... Low odds but I will try to baby it along.

To many NDM numbers for me to remember also as to which I have. But, I had very slow growth on the original with fruit after the 2nd year reaching maturity and last year also fruit reaching maturity but tree was still small.... So this winter I fertilized heavily knowing it might not fruit and grow vegetative this year.. And that is exactly what is happening with no bloom but good vegetative growth as it definitely needs to be above 3 1/2 ft tall. So I am happy this year with zero fruit.
I did graph NDM to other larger trees and no problems with getting mature fruit off the grafts yearly.

Regardless of how good a fruit may taste, if it never produces mature fruit.... It is useless to me...

If you also have over 15 varieties of mangos, what grafted trees have produced zero fruit over 4 years when the other varieties of the same size/maturity have produced fruit... I would like to know as I do NOT want to purchase more potentially unproductive trees.

1. Pineapple Pleasure- Huge tree trunk now and fruit always falls off (fungus/male flowers/etc.) I'm keeping it at 6ft till it produces a mature fruit. 4+ years and no mature fruit and this year 5th looks the same.
2. Phoenix = I let it grow since away from the house and 4+ years (this will be the 5th) and zero fruit. Fungus or male flowers primarily appear and disappear.

I have many productive varieties. I do not want to purchase more failures, regardless of taste... Please let me know of your failures...

Variables, variables, variables... problems with any study or evaluation... temp., watering, minerals, soil type, etc. etc. etc.

I keep thinking of how bad IMO tomatoes taste in Florida vs. states like Alabama, Tn., etc. lol...

Who ever has all those varieties to evaluate would definitely be the best person to comment. But, one of the given varieties still might taste better in another location, state, time of year ripening, elevation, etc. etc. etc. Pretty similar to mango varieties tasting different in different locations, time of year ripe, amt. of sunshine, rain or watering, etc. etc. etc...

It's still good to hear opinions....

Ok, finally able to save my list and show it here.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 27
SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk