Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - willpollinateforfood

Pages: [1]
Citrus Buy, Sell, & Trade / Looking for Citrus Pollen
« on: May 01, 2019, 02:25:06 AM »
Does anyone know of a source of disease-free citrus pollen?
I would like to experiment and create my own citrus hybrids with my calamondin tree. Ultimately, I want to get a hardy orange, Poncirus trifoliata, and hybridize it with either Yuzu or the harder to find Citrus ichangensis to make a hardy but better tasting orange that can exist in USDA zone 6 here in Connecticut.

P.S. I learned pollen transmits certain citrus diseases so I do not want to damage my little tree.
- Kelly F.

Hi everyone,
I received this fig as a cutting from a friend who works in a greenhouse. Hoping this leaf pattern is not a sign of mosaic fig virus. I have moved my fig away from my other plants by over 10 ft. for now, farther away places are too sunny. From what I have read, if it is mosaic virus, I will need to destroy this plant and not compost it or its soil. Thank you in advance!

Recipes / Malabar Spinach - Basella rubra recipe ideas?
« on: July 04, 2018, 04:54:10 PM »
Does anyone have favorite ways to use Malabar Spinach? I am growing it for the first time this year. I heard someone describe it as slimy? If so, best ways to minimize that textural component?

Last update unless I get fruit to form before the first frost. It has been 6 weeks since the first signs of life when my Brown Turkey fig broke winter dormancy. Is there a chance I could see a main crop on new growth, approx. 2 yr. old fig, maybe older, have not seen fruit on it before.

I have a photo update of the tiny but mighty leaf buds. Now a second cluster has appeared from the base. Anxiously hopeful!

Thank you everyone!! I am incredibly grateful to be thoroughly informed before I use my new rooting hormone (just arrived in the mail today). As always, I am careful and use basic precautions like wearing gloves or washing my hands, only using the smallest amount needed, and working outdoors for ventilation.

- Kelly F.

Hello Everyone,
         I have been reading about warning labels on rooting hormone containers that say use only for ornamentals, not edible plants. Also mentions not getting the powder or liquid on your skin, in your eyes, or lungs. My question is, is it safe to use rooting hormone with IBA as an active ingredient for plants that you will eventually harvest leaves, fruits, seeds from in months or years after using a bit of hormone on a cutting? I purchased a small bottle of TakeRoot 1% IBA active ingredient rooting powder.
         Does this harmful stuff accumulate in the plant's leaves/fruit or will it dissipate? One article I read stated one reason it is labeled for non food use is because the EPA tests are expensive and time consuming. Lastly, another article mentioned the IBA is neurotoxic. Finally, another stated the harm index for skin contact was very low, and only slightly higher for inhalation, meaning overall this is a decently safe product to handle.
          I am most curious about the safety of eating a plant grown from a cutting that I used rooting hormone on.
Kelly F.

My Brown Turkey fig has a bit of green emerging from the base of what was the trunk, cautious optimism. Will update with a photo if my fig comes back to life. How unexpected. A late May gift from nature - signs of life from what was considered a dead fig.

I love Jerusalem artichokes, the tubers are crisp and nutty. About a decade ago, a few wild Jerusalem artichokes would sprout in the middle of my raspberry patch so weeding at the end of the summer was never more rewarding! I wish I still had some in my yard. My zone says the average winter low is -10F. The winters are variable, but typically some extremely cold weeks, wind chill down to -20F the last two years.

Hi everyone,
I have a few questions:
1. Are Aronia melanocarpa (black chokeberry) fruits juicy or hard?
2. Are prunus virginiana (chokecherry) fruits juicy or hard?
I am trying to identify what the "chokecherries" were from my childhood that my grandpa showed to me in Vermont. (not elderberries).

3. What do red goji berries taste like fresh? are they sweet and fruity or savory? Has anyone grown them in zone 6a winters outside?
4. Sweet goumi berries - Elaeagnus multiflora - has anyone tasted them, good or gross?
5. Maypop vines, passiflora incarnata, do they become weedy invasive type vines that are hard to control? Do they spread by suckers?
6. Lastly, hardy kiwis, has anyone tasted them from their garden, do they have any acidity? I had them from the store, no acidity at all:( I also have not planted any yet because I heard they can become very large, invasive vines. Thank you in advance!

The coincidence Logee's was brought up is great! I am headed there this weekend. I will let everyone know what I bring home.

Hi everyone,
I live in Connecticut and am looking for some optimistic stories of people growing fruiting trees/plants from seed/young age and have had them set fruit in about three years or less. I am referring to container plants grown indoors for almost half of the year due to the cold temperatures outdoors. I am looking longingly at Garcinia intermedia (lemon drop mangosteen) and certain Eugenia species like the pitangatuba, and Ugni mollinae (Chilean guava), or the hybrid red jaboticaba. Can anyone point me towards a plant that can give me the unique joy of tasting a fruit that I could not otherwise purchase in a store?


I don't mind my bonsais being little considering my desperate lack of space. I appreciate the information! I will get the proper fertilizer and give everyone an update at the end of the season to see how they have improved. What a cool fact too, that citrus leaves have an 18 month lifespan. Is this the case for guavas too do you know?  Interestingly, quite a few websites claim yellowing leaf edges can be a sign of too much nitrogen, which is why I was troubleshooting.
Thank you for helping my trees and me!

Hi everyone,
In my situation, I agree with the root bound nutrient competition theory behind why my orange bonsais are beginning to show yellowing of the bottom, older leaves. I also am thinking about giving them some 8-7-6 miracle grow liquid fertilizer in case they are nitrogen deficient. I also heard yellowing leaves could be a sign of too much nitrogen/fertilizer. I know this is not the problem with my trees because I have only fertilized them once in 3-4 years because they were repotted yearly and received new organic soil each time.

I am always looking for exciting new fruits, vegetables, herbs that I cannot get at a supermarket that can fruit in a container before the frost comes in Connecticut, our season is pretty short so I am open to suggestions for new fruit endeavors. This year, I have Poha (variety of cape gooseberries), pepino melon (solanum muricatum), naranjilla (solanum quitoense), and camellia sinensis (tea plants) and laurus nobilis (bay leaf). The last two I mentioned will be kept indoors for years to come over the winter.

Does anyone have favorite container annuals to add to this list?


Thank you everyone! I wish I had space indoors to bring a fig tree inside, but I collect tropicals, so I have a 3 ft. coffea arabica tree in my kitchen window already along with seed-grown lemon, orange, guava, feijoa, pomegranate, avocado, bonsais and passionflower vine seedlings. Self admitted plant-a-holic. (and a carnivorous Nepenthes hanging pitcher plant). plus more.

I will try again with a 1 gallon Chicago Hardy fig tree with twice as much mulch from a nursery in milder zones. My brown turkey fig tree was purchased from a Louisiana nursery, maybe that's a contributing factor behind my fig's passing, in LA it would have never felt zone 6 cold.

I appreciate being welcomed into this forum, I am a 24 year old college student hoping to be involved in horticulture for life.
- Kelly

Hi everyone,
Sadly my 18" tall Brown Turkey fig tree I bought online, did not survive the winter here in New England. It was healthy all season. I provided moderate mulch and kept it in a fully sunny spot. I live in Connecticut, USA. I know we had nights below -10 degree F, which is the average lowest temperature for zone 6a. If anyone can help me with advice from variety (should I try Chicago Hardy fig cultivar instead?), to overwintering outdoors, etc. I would be grateful! Or should I give up on figs altogether?
Thank you,

I am new to this forum and am passionate about plants. I will trade cuttings (will happily root cuttings first upon request, just need a head's up) of red raspberry, blackberry, red currant, and black raspberry should I locate the bush in my yard again, as well as peppermint, spearmint, rosemary, lemon balm, red or purple beebalm (Monarda sp.) cuttings and potentially a strawberry plant (spring-bearing) for something on my wishlist:

*Gooseberry (Ribes sp.) bush cuttings (it would be really cool if one was rooted).
*Blackcurrant or Josta berry cuttings (extra cool if rooted)
Chicago Hardy fig seedling/sapling if someone has success growing them in USDA zone 6 winters outdoors.
Blueberry bush cuttings / plants
A cold hardy species to zone 6a (-10 to -5 degrees F) of cherry, plum, peach, apricot, Granny smith apple, seedlings/saplings.
Or seeds of something tropical and edible like Chilean Guava Ugni mollinae that could fruit indoors in a container.
I am always excited to just meet a new plant enthusiast and talk.
I have more to offer as far as flower seeds, also can take concord grape vine cuttings.
I have a wide array of interests and knowledge, so message me anytime!


Temperate Fruit Buy, Sell, & Trade / Re: gooseberry seeds for trade
« on: April 30, 2018, 08:00:47 PM »
I can send red raspberry, red currant, blackberry, potentially black raspberry seeds if my other bushes have not overtaken them in exchange for a handful of gooseberry bush cuttings. I can try to root the cuttings first of course!

Pages: [1]
SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk