Mango branches are growing in wrong direction

[Jaboticaba45]

My mallika mango branches are not growing in the right direction...They are pointing downwards. I realize that this was my fault of keeping the shade cloth on last summer and the lack of air flow causing the branches to become weak. Also letting the tree hold fruit the previous year made the branches even more downward. How do I fix this? I tried to use string to pull the branches back up, but it didn't work.

[pineislander]

You won't want to hear this. Typically we prune branches like that and regrow. Maybe you could use a bonsai technique like wiring, they twist branches every which way and get them to hold.

[Orkine]

An option will be to put the tree in some pruning program to get the shape you want.  You may end up skipping a fruiting season since your pruning cuts may make the plant redirect its energy to vegetative growth.  In the long teen though it may work in your favor as you would end up with a more complex canopy with the potential to hold more fruit in a couple of years.

[Jaboticaba45]

Pineislander and Orkine, thanks for the replies.
Using copper wire technique sounds like a good plan. I have some electric fence wire and could use that. If that doesn't work then I'd resort to pruning.
If I were to prune the tree, where should I prune it? Also, this tree has been pretty slow growing. I assume it is because that mallika is a slower grower...the rootstock is way bigger than the grafted part. If I prune back, I feel like it will take forever to get back into shape. Is it better to rip it out and plant a new mango? I'd hate to pull it, but space is limited in the gh and only the best of the best will get to stay in ground. I love the taste of mallika, but wouldn't mind putting another citrus flavored mango anyway. I had to prune a lychee and white sapote also because of this last fall. Luckily they rebounded pretty quickly and looks like I'm only sacrificing this year for no fruit for the lychee. Even then, I'm seeing a mixed blooms.The white sapote branches have been not so strong, so I've been trying to run the fan towards it. Even if I have to prune it again, it is a super fast growing tree and it wouldn't be set back at all.

[K-Rimes]

I picked up some plants earlier in my plant buying career that were the biggest of the bunch, but super droopy. Didn't realize my mistake. Having pruned them back hard, the places where they're branching back at, are much stouter and more natural. I am not as experienced with mango pruning so someone else can tell you more accurately where, but all I can say is don't worry too much about hard pruning.

[Plantinyum]

If it was me i would just straighten the branches up and prop them with a wooden stake, every branch individually. Then maybe prune some of the lanky growht, the ends of the branches and i think this will make it branch out and the main branches should set in a year or two.
Its an greenhouse plant and probably do not want it much bigger then that, i am thinking that in your case with that tree form, u will be ok with just proppin the branches.

[K-Rimes]

Just as an aside, almost all my plants in my greenhouse are droopy. I think most plants really benefit from the wind outside that helps stiffen the branches - if you can get a big-ass fan in there, it will help going forward. I use a huge fan in my greenhouse to circulate the air but it's not quite "wind" levels.

[Jaboticaba45]

I'm glad winter doesn't last so long - as soon as its mid march everything goes out. The plants in pots don't get droopy. Also along with some other stuff. I do got a nice fan in there that I try to turn on here and there. K-Rimes, I'm sure once the plants come out of the greenhouse, they will be ok...I noticed as long as they don't stay in my greenhouse for 4-5 months, they seem to be fine in the spring and summer.
I'll re-evaluate the situation and try to think what is the best in the long run.
Thanks for the help everyone.

[Orkine]

There are several excellent posts about pruning mango on the forum.
Many will have links to two videos, one from Ghana that can be found at the link below and one from Richard Campbel on tipping/pruning at this link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlhF-YphevA
Chris at truly tropical also did a pruning 1010 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GjziradjrQ

https://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=30538.msg339621#msg339621

I suggest you watch these and see if you can come up with a strategy that works for you. 


That said, were it my tree, I will cut it back severely.  I will likely keep all of the branches but cut them back to one or two internode lengths and encourage new branching on limbs that are not too long and are already decent sized.  I will se selective in what I keep of the regrowth (the videos give suggestions on how to)

The tree should grow back quickly.  If it has been in the ground a while it will have a decent root system capable of supporting the new growth and the canopy should come back quickly.

You would hate what it looks like after your cut by by next winter you would be smiling and in two years you would have a nicely shaped tree.

By the way, Malika will eventually grow large and you will have to manage it but it will take its time.

[pineislander]

You might try the #9 galvanized high tension wire used at the bottom of chain link fencing. It is fairly stiff. Cut with a cold chisel against a hard metal object. Available at big box or chain link fence supply stores. But if you are in a greenhouse to should have overhead tie off points.

[Wilfredo Nieves]

 Hello, Trees will grow their branches in the direction that receives the most sun. Check.

[sapote]

Pineislander and Orkine, thanks for the replies.
Using copper wire technique sounds like a good plan.

I'm not sure this will fix the problem. The problem is you have a grafted tree on turpentine rootstock and it is not compatible with your climate. The young small tree keeps pushing out flowers instead of growing so ended up with a weak tree/branches.

Solution:
Try to grow a seedling and then do the graft on it when the trunk is 3" or larger.

[Jaboticaba45]

Pineislander and Orkine, thanks for the replies.
Using copper wire technique sounds like a good plan.

I'm not sure this will fix the problem. The problem is you have a grafted tree on turpentine rootstock and it is not compatible with your climate. The young small tree keeps pushing out flowers instead of growing so ended up with a weak tree/branches.

Solution:
Try to grow a seedling and then do the graft on it when the trunk is 3" or larger.

I know that turpentine isn't the best for places like CA....But I think my tree is just because I kept it under 40% shade cloth last summer and the fact it was not getting wind in the greenhouse contributed to it looking like this? My other mango looks a lot better. I'll take a pic tomorrow. I've made sure to get rid of flowers and focus on growth. But yeah, the turpentine part of the tree kinda looks off. Not sure if it's because of me not fertilizing right or it just not doing well.

[pineislander]

Older women have this problem, they use a strong brassiere to pull up their junk. Just tie the branches up from the roof and slowly increase tension the branches should respond eventually. I have pulled branches downwards & I don't see why they couldn't be pulled upwards.

[K-Rimes]

Older women have this problem, they use a strong brassiere to pull up their junk. Just tie the branches up from the roof and slowly increase tension the branches should respond eventually. I have pulled branches downwards & I don't see why they couldn't be pulled upwards.

Pulling an aggressive growing branch downward (I do this often) is one thing - pulling a wet noodle branch upward isn't the same. Supporting the branch will only exacerbate the issue as it won't thicken up and solidify. You can get heavy wind on a noodle branch and it will help over a long period of time but still, I think the final answer is chopping it back to a reasonable size and focusing on high quality new growth.

I've never been able to fix noodle branches, I just cut them off HARD and then the tree grows back normal from that spot.

[Jaboticaba45]

I pruned the lower branches, tied up the higher branches, and pruned them back a bit. Hopefully I'll be rewarded for this sacrifice in a couple of years.

[K-Rimes]

I pruned the lower branches, tied up the higher branches, and pruned them back a bit. Hopefully I'll be rewarded for this sacrifice in a couple of years.

Bravo! Looks good. Get a big fan on it and leave the strings loose so the arms can blow in the breeze

[Jaboticaba45]

I pruned the lower branches, tied up the higher branches, and pruned them back a bit. Hopefully I'll be rewarded for this sacrifice in a couple of years.

Bravo! Looks good. Get a big fan on it and leave the strings loose so the arms can blow in the breeze

Thanks! I have a nice big fan I'll put over there. I'm also going to get some roll-up sides for the greenhouse this spring to help with air flow and cooling. Would suck if I had to do this again.

[Plantinyum]

Looks nice , i also stride for a simillar form with my decidious fruit trees. I think you may have wanted to air layer the branches that you cut off.... i did not thought about that in time to suggest to you....

[Jaboticaba45]

Looks nice , i also stride for a simillar form with my decidious fruit trees. I think you may have wanted to air layer the branches that you cut off.... i did not thought about that in time to suggest to you....

I can get grafted mangoes of all kinds relatively easily. There is no need to airlayer a mango here. Thanks for the suggestion though.