Best nematode resistant fig cultivars for Florida 9b . . . ?

[Epicatt2]

I'm looking for suggestions for the best nematode resistant fig cultivars for my area. 
I have sandy soil in my yard that I know is likely to have root knot nematodes in it.

So with that in mind are there any fig cultivars suitable for here in 9b with sandy soil
which are also nematode resistant?

Of course heavy mulching and/or planting French marigolds (and turning the marigolds in
to the soil around the base of the figs after theMarigold have passed is also a suppressant
for those nematodes.

Are there other methods –other than keeping the figs in pots– to avoid nematodes?

The fig cultivars that I have in 5 or 7 gallon pots which are doing the best from top
to bottom are:

~Brown Turkey (7 gal) - fruits regualrly, but shyly
~LSU Purple (7 gal) - fruits sporadically, not every year for me
~Green Ischia (5 gal) - not yet fruited
~Celeste (3 gal) - most recent acquisition; has been dormant the last 3 months; just now
                          started leafing out

Okay any suggestions for better cultivar for my area of west central Florida are welcomed.

TIA

Paul M.
==

[shot]

Ficus sycomorus is a tough root stock

[mcoambassador]

All ficus carica are susceptable, not resistant, but several seem to be "tolerant" meaning they grow and fruit even in the presence of nematodes. There are different varieties of nematodes too, some more aggressive than others, so keep that in mind. I have one raised bed with 'todes that seem to destroy whatever goes in there. Growing marigolds in there now. Anyway...

This article describes the results of 21 cultivars, and a variety named Zidi (a smyrna, not a common self pollinating fig) was exemplary. I'm personally growing several varieties grafted onto zidi rootstock now. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/251009945_Screening_of_Fig_Varieties_for_Rootstocks_Resistant_to_Soil_Sickness

There are claims that several LSU figs are tolerant, especially LSU Gold. I've had one LSU variety die in a 10 gallon pot after being infected with RKN (once RKN gets into pots its even worse than being in the ground). And of course, southern brown turkey seems to be such a robust grower than it may be able to punch through RKN issues. Celeste may be similar.

Ficus Sycamorus is resistant, as rootstock. But it is somewhat susceptible to cold/frost, so proceed with caution.

On Ourfigs the user DCSteve has had luck here growing tall trees in RKN free pots, then when they're ready, burying them with their trunks deep underground. Like in 4' deep holes. That way the rootball is below where RKN can spread. He's been growing trees like this for years, though he admits his RKN pressure may be lower than in some other places.

[Tropheus76]

If you are in eastern central FL with our wonderful grey sand, just put them in pots. I have not found any that are resistant that will survive in ground more than a couple years. I grow about two dozen currently in pots on cement tiles. An exception I have seen is when a subdivision brings in good soil from elsewhere and layers it fairly deep to bring the ground up. I have a friend in Oviedo in a nice neighborhood with a pretty large fig tree in ground and they have no idea what I am talking about when it comes to fig issues from RKN.

[Epiphyte]

if and when I get some land in central Florida, I plan to attach staghorn ferns to trees and then stick carica cuttings behind the stags.  might not be the most practical method of avoiding nematodes but it's definitely the coolest.  virtually everybody loves getting their roots into stags.  the medium that the stacks of their old shield fronds create is nearly the perfect combo of drainage and moisture. 

really the best long term solution is ficus hybridization.  as you can see from that thread, the ficus collectors don't seem that interested though, and neither do most carica collectors.  the venn diagram is pretty sad looking.   

[DavidBYE]

Brown Turkey and Black Mission have done the best for me (9a). Of the varieties I have, these two root quickly from cuttings and grow like crazy. Three years from rooted cutting to producing fruit. Seems to me the darker color of the fig, the better they perform in my yard.

[Julian R]

I've had a Celeste fig in the ground for 3 years now with no issues. Not sure if Nematodes are an issue really in my yard, have had some pepper plants get eaten up by them in other parts of the yard, but soil quality in those areas at that time were low.

[Epicatt2]

If you are in eastern central FL with our wonderful grey sand, just put them in pots. I have not found any that are resistant that will survive in ground more than a couple years. I grow about two dozen currently in pots on cement tiles. (snip)

Of course I'm on the west side with the usual Florida sand so, like you, I have my fig cultivars
growing in 5- or 7-gallon pots in a made up potting mix each one sitting on a concrete tile. 
That seems to protect them from the nematodes well enough but the pot size seems to
be a limiter of the plant's growth.  Do they need larger than a 7-gal pot to succeed?

What fertilizer formulation do figs prefer here in Florida 9b?  Mine are all just
now starting to leaf out.

TIA

Paul M.
==

[mcoambassador]

If you are in eastern central FL with our wonderful grey sand, just put them in pots. I have not found any that are resistant that will survive in ground more than a couple years. I grow about two dozen currently in pots on cement tiles. (snip)

Of course I'm on the west side with the usual Florida sand so, like you, I have my fig cultivars
growing in 5- or 7-gallon pots in a made up potting mix each one sitting on a concrete tile. 
That seems to protect them from the nematodes well enough but the pot size seems to
be a limiter of the plant's growth.  Do they need larger than a 7-gal pot to succeed?

What fertilizer formulation do figs prefer here in Florida 9b?  Mine are all just
now starting to leaf out.

TIA

Paul M.
==

You can get 15 figs per gallon pot size, according to ASCPete on OurFigs. So 5 gallon fig tree when mature = 75 figs with max nutrition. You can use a slow release pelletized fert like Osmocote Plus (that’s 15-9-12; other brands can work too; around 0.5-1.0 cup per container), plus half cup gypsum, a tablespoon Epsom, and a 1/4 tsp borax every February and June (maybe again in September if your trees never go dormant). Figs like Ironite and/or Azomite for micronutrients too.

[Epicatt2]

You can get 15 figs per gallon pot size, according to ASCPete on OurFigs. So 5 gallon fig tree when mature = 75 figs with max nutrition. You can use a slow release pelletized fert like Osmocote Plus (that’s 15-9-12; other brands can work too; around 0.5-1.0 cup per container), plus half cup gypsum, a tablespoon Epsom, and a 1/4 tsp borax every February and June (maybe again in September if your trees never go dormant). Figs like Ironite and/or Azomite for micronutrients too.

Great info mcoambassador, Thanx!  That is really good to know.

One other question I have –apart from the suggested feeding/nutrition– is whether
figs in pots benefit from mulching on the surface of the soil in their pots.

Again TIA . . .

Paul M.
==

[mcoambassador]

You can get 15 figs per gallon pot size, according to ASCPete on OurFigs. So 5 gallon fig tree when mature = 75 figs with max nutrition. You can use a slow release pelletized fert like Osmocote Plus (that’s 15-9-12; other brands can work too; around 0.5-1.0 cup per container), plus half cup gypsum, a tablespoon Epsom, and a 1/4 tsp borax every February and June (maybe again in September if your trees never go dormant). Figs like Ironite and/or Azomite for micronutrients too.

Great info mcoambassador, Thanx!  That is really good to know.

One other question I have –apart from the suggested feeding/nutrition– is whether
figs in pots benefit from mulching on the surface of the soil in their pots.

Again TIA . . .

Paul M.
==

I always mulch, for the sake of keeping soil cool and for the beneficial microbes and fungus. If there's tons of rain and the soil tends to be wet I've heard some folks say to skip mulching to allow the soil to dry out between waterings... but I feel like that's more of a soil mix issue, and it'd be better to amend the soil (coarse chunky perlite, and calcined clay) and keep mulching.

[Galatians522]

Mcoambasador, that is great to know about 15 figs per gallon pot size. I'll keep that in mind.

[Epicatt2]

I always mulch, for the sake of keeping soil cool and for the beneficial microbes and fungus. If there's tons of rain and the soil tends to be wet I've heard some folks say to skip mulching to allow the soil to dry out between waterings... but I feel like that's more of a soil mix issue, and it'd be better to amend the soil (coarse chunky perlite, and calcined clay) and keep mulching.

Useful advice on several fronts, MCO!  (Not flighty at all . . .)

Again, thanks, much appreciated!!

Paul M.
==

[nullzero]

I have Ficus opposita trees that are at least 4 years old in ground in FL. They seem to be doing well with limited inputs, I tried fig varieties in past and they scumbag and have stunted growth. No idea if I can successfully graft common fig onto it though.

[Epiphyte]

I have Ficus opposita trees that are at least 4 years old in ground in FL. They seem to be doing well with limited inputs, I tried fig varieties in past and they scumbag and have stunted growth. No idea if I can successfully graft common fig onto it though.

it sure seems possible to successfully graft carica onto opposita. 

[mangoba]

Zidi might be a good candidate as the roots vigor may outgrow the nematodes.

Does anyone grow apples in RKN soils? I wonder what rootstocks do well.

[Tropheus76]

I grow Tropic Sweet and Ein Shimer(sp?). Both have been in the ground for close to a decade, neither grow very fast nor do they produce much. If I get a couple apples each then its a bumper year. It never crossed my mind that RKN could have something to do with it.

[mangoba]

I grow Tropic Sweet and Ein Shimer(sp?). Both have been in the ground for close to a decade, neither grow very fast nor do they produce much. If I get a couple apples each then its a bumper year. It never crossed my mind that RKN could have something to do with it.

RKN can feast on those roots but it would become obvious after 2-4 years. Trees would basically get stuck on survival mode then eventually give up and succumb. Most rootstocks if not all are prone as far as I can tell.

[Galatians522]

I grow Tropic Sweet and Ein Shimer(sp?). Both have been in the ground for close to a decade, neither grow very fast nor do they produce much. If I get a couple apples each then its a bumper year. It never crossed my mind that RKN could have something to do with it.

RKN can feast on those roots but it would become obvious after 2-4 years. Trees would basically get stuck on survival mode then eventually give up and succumb. Most rootstocks if not all are prone as far as I can tell.

Southern Crabapple was used as a rootstock years ago. It is native to north Florida and has a measure of RKN resistance. However, there was some question about it imparting extra tannins to the fruit and was mostly discontinued. Tannins are great if you want to make hard cider (so I hear), but not so good for fresh eating apples. Malus doumeri might be a good rootstock option for the deep south and Florida if you could get your hands on it. Its native to Taiwan and Vietnam but pretty rare in the US.

[Galatians522]

Ficus Sycomorus rootstock is available from Cody Cove Farm and Nursery if anyone wants to try it.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://codycovefarm.com/product/ficus-sycomorus-potted-plant/&ved=2ahUKEwj34JLJhP-EAxVKRDABHasFDKAQFnoECFkQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2-N2UULUxqIaBGrCtCDpSW