I'm also growing some other things besides citrus, so maybe should share that because it could help be used to make a comparison and know what can survive in this climate.
I'm growing two rarer hardier (Russian) varieties of pomegranates, Parfianka and Crimson Sky. The Parfianka is right up against a southern wall and has grown to become a huge bush. It has sent out blossoms, and even two small developing fruits. Crimson Sky is supposed to be even hardier but has grown slower, but it is a little further away from the home and planted in a spot with harder shallow soil.
Hardy gardenias, Crown Jewel and Summer Snow. Both have bigger more complex flowers than the typical hardy gardenia varieties. Crown Jewel can definitely do well here, does not lose its leaves in the winter. One bush has grown big and sent out abundant blossoms during the warmest part of summer. They smell a little more like wild strawberry and tea than regular gardenias. I actually prefer the fragrance of regular gardenias, which are more grapefruit and lemony, in my personal opinion. Another Crown Jewel Bush has not grown very much but has survived, it gets more sun exposure which is apparently not good since the summers in this climate can get quite dry and hot during the day, and gardenias really prefer humidity.
For Summer Snow, it's too early to say whether it can survive the winters. I planted two in colder spots and during colder winters they seemed to be killed back close to the ground, but barely managed to recover and started sending up a little bit of new growth. I will be observing another that is planted in a more protected sheltered spot not far from the wall close to some other bushes.
Musa basjoo (ornamental bananas) are usually killed down to the ground and then regrow, though some very mild winters the pseudostem (big trunk) can survive, but not the leaves. The winter always comes before the skinny small fruits have any time to develop, and they might only produce fruit some years.
Fragrant osmanthus can grow, but immature plants do not seem to do well planted in the open with too much sun and exposure to wind. They need a little bit of shade and moisture to handle the dry summers, despite being kept well watered.
I saw a hardy variety of rosemary flowering in late January one year, so apparenty it does not get too cold.
Camellias can easily survive and grow to become gigantic bushes after 40 years, in some cases taller than homes. In almost half the years, you can see red flowers on big cammellia bushes blooming in late December and then in the later part of February.
A tropical variety of camellia, Nitidissima, was unable to survive, but a hybrid of it, Ki no Senritsu has managed to survive, further out away from the house, in a partially sheltered spot beneath some other plants. I think this would probably do better in 8b, but is just barely managing to survive in my zone 8a climate. It was able to grow a few leaves this year but not too many.
Cork oak does not lose its leaves over the winter here.
As you can see, I've been testing the boundaries of what sorts of subtropical things can grow here.
Hardy fuschia flower varieties can grow outside here, although regular fuschias do not survive the winters. I have seen fuschias blooming in the middle of January in Seattle (permanently planted in the ground) not far from the water of the lake.
Double Otto is the variety with the biggest more complex flowers that can survive here, similar in appearance to regular fuschias.
The leaves on bamboo remain green most winters, and the plants keep their leaves, though can look a little bit trashed by the end of winter. The leaf color changes to a paler less lively color hue, but the leaves can recover the next year, especially if they are deeper into the thicket of bamboo.
I haven't tried it but my online research tells me that tree ferns can survive but only if the top crowns of the ferns are protected and wrapped in a burlap sack for insulation. Especially if the tree fern is Dicksonia antarctica, but possibly even regular Australian tree ferns too. The fronds are cut back at the start of winter so the crowns can be wrapped. The lower part of the trunk does not need to be wrapped.
You can use these as indicators and try to compare to your climate.
I have had no luck getting chrysanthemums to permanently survive in the ground here, even hardier hybrids that supposedly were designed to be able to survive in southern Minnesota.