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Messages - Peep

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Hello all,

As we all know, citrus flowers smell amazing, so I was hoping to capture that aroma. Orange blossom water is a thing, but for now I will not be able to harvest large amounts. My plants are small, some are too small to carry fruit, so I will remove flowers sporadically. Storing them to collect enough over time to make 'blossom water' doesn't seem like a practical thing, so I was thinking alcohol instead.

Could I just have a bottle of grain alcohol and chuck more flowers in it whenever I pick some of the plants? Should I strain and remove old flowers in between sometimes, or just let everything collect for half a year and strain it afterwards?

I'm also looking into if I should dry the flowers or not before putting them in the alcohol.

Anyone else that has been doing things with the citrus flowers? I'm curious about different things to do with them.

Kind regards,

Still looking for a few cultivars to complete my collection, please let me know if you can send me a scion from any of these :)

- Clemyuz-22
- Satsuma Corsica SRA 145
- Bloomsweet / kinkoji
- Nansho Daidai (taiwanica)
- Taichang Lemon (taiwanica x ichang)
- Yuzu N30 Hybrid
- Yuzukichi
- Yuzu Nishiki Tada / Tanaka Mukaku Yuzu
- Ventura Lemandarin

Here you can see my spreadsheet with my collection progress:

I can try to trade you scions of cultivars that I have, but my plants are mostly very young so it's not always possible. Hopefully next year and after I will have most of these cultivars available to ship scions to people within Europe.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Nansho Daidai and other Taiwanica cultivars
« on: March 10, 2023, 08:31:09 AM »
The Nansho Dai Dai fruit I have tried are very sour, much more so than Rough Seville Sour Orange. Possibly Gou Tou comes close, but not quite.
As for the foliage there are other "Willow Leaf" Sour Oranges and also Sweet Oranges with long narrow foliage.
Willow leaf variants could be possible ?
The type in Australia probably came from UC Riverside collection.
Citrus miaray, from the Phillipines is pretty close to Citrus Taiwanica.

Not sure if the original question is any more clear now, possibly info about the fruit flavours of the variant types, and in Taiwan would help.

The Taiwanica type here is a very attractive tree, with its narrow foliage and the way the fruit hangs in it around the outside.

I've gotten into contact with Olivier Biggio (writer of the French book 'Agrumes résistant au froid'), and Pietro Lenzi (where I have bought a Taiwanica) so I'm going back and forth with them now to get some more clarity. I'll update here when I'm able to coherently put the information and puzzle pieces together.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Nansho Daidai and other Taiwanica cultivars
« on: March 08, 2023, 06:37:28 PM »
ls there any reason to think that the Taiwanica from Adavo and Lenzi are really Taiwanica, and not just something they grew from seed and marketed ?
They have a multitude of interesting Citrus on their websites, but some clearly don't match original descriptions from elsewhere.
I grew Taiwanica from seed, seedlings seemed highly identical with narrow leaves etc.
One occasionally fruits, but the fruit is closer to a mandarin than the original Taiwanica fruit.
The seed came from a collection, and the next door plant was a mandarin.

No I don't think there is anything like proof, but I believe the name Taiwanica does not say more than for example "bitter orange", it's not the name of a cultivar. And from what I've read so far, Taiwanica can be considered the bitter oranges from Taiwan.   

EDIT: There are also many pictures that don't match the typical look of the Nansho Daidai version that is common in the USA, which has the very narrow leaves and large thorns. On this Taiwanese web page you can see that the picture does not match this, and instead looks more like the version of Taiwanica that is sold by Lenzi:   

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Yet another soil thread
« on: March 06, 2023, 03:43:03 PM »
I prefer riversand about the grade of brown sugar or above. 1mm to 2mm upwards. You could run the sand thru sieves and check the grades in it.
3 or 4 different mesh sieves ( even kitchen strainers ) will give you a good profile.
It can vary from lot to lot or source or season.
The pic looks ok, but you could possibly remove the finest particles and use them elsewhere, or mix in another ingredient to compensate.

Indeed, my plan is to buy this 0-4 mm size and sieve the finest particles out. I have a few different sieves so I'll have to try them out.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Yet another soil thread
« on: March 06, 2023, 01:40:21 PM »
Next week I will start the repotting.

I just wanted to check if riversand is alright to use? From what I read it seems ok to use, but I don't want to make mistakes.

And I also thought of another interesting topic; what makes the best soil cover?

I sometimes used the pine bark as soil cover. I could also use the lava split. This kind of lava is said to not be ideal inside the soil mix, because it's too sharp for the roots, but maybe it's not a problem on top? Or will it be bad for the feeder roots? Or is it better to have no cover/mulch at all?  Or other suggestions for the best soil cover?

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Yuzu
« on: March 04, 2023, 05:23:02 PM »
There was a long discussion about the taste of Yuzu in Citrus Growers forum: Most Europeans valued Yuzu very much while Americans were mostly not positively impressed. The reason seems to be that the Yuzu varieties in Europe are not the same as in the States.

I think there is much difference between old world culinary tradition as well as openness to new taste and preferences in the US. Yuzu-rind is not bitter at all  ;)

I had the premium Yuzu from Japan and candied the peel. When I looked up the process of candying citrus peel it often said to boil the peel to remove the bitter flavor. Because I've heard sometimes that Yuzu peel is not bitter, I did not do this, as I wanted to not lose any flavor by boiling them. But the result of the Yuzu candied peel still tastes bitter. It might be less than most other citrus, I can't compare as I've only candied Yuzu for now.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Yet another soil thread
« on: February 22, 2023, 08:55:44 AM »
I think magnesium alone should work too. It will bind to the coconut, and the more active sodium will pass into the solution. According to the concentration, probably 1-2 tablespoons of Epsom salt should be enough for 40 liters. Leave it overnight or for a day. Maybe someone will tell you more precisely.

Nice, should be cheap and easy enough.

Most of the sand where I live is sugar sand very small. Some larger particles but mostly small. It works well in a mix but over waterings it settles downward until.the roots are dense enough to hold it in place. I sprinkle some on the top of the dirt and it makes it's way down. But we also have a lot of small shells that are larger than the sand particles.

From what I read the downside of small sand can be that it fills the air pockets in the soil and clogs everything up. So it still helps in the sense that the particles themselves don't soak up moisture, but it can downgrade the amount of air in the soil and also how quickly it drains.

Citrus don't like mulch generally. But it also depends how hot it is and how much you water. If you have good drainage you will need to water more often. That's ideal, really good drainage let it dry between watering but in the hot summer probably water almost every day. If you are going to be gone for a long time you might need to add clay or something that will hold water. Otherwise perlite with a small amount of sand and compost is pretty good. The perlite floats upward and the sand downward.and the perlite is bigger. If it's not hot perlite can get soggy but in hot weather dries really fast. In Europe with cooler weather I would go heavier on sand and only a small amount of perlite perhaps. Though sand will make it heavy and perlite is light. Citrus grows in Florida in almost pure sand so it won't hurt it just moving the pots is more difficult with more weight. Even small rocks at the bottom of the pot can be good. There is no perfect soil because you have to consider the temperature how frequently watered etc. Just keep the dirt from staying wet for prolonged period because citrus doesn't like wet roots though they like a lot of water as long as they can dry between watering

I don't want to have to water everyday, but I think the coco coir and potting soil can take care of that. I also want to influence this by using fairly large pots, then they hold more water, but using enough perlite and sand so that it can't get oversaturated or have a lack of air in the soil.
My plants are small though, so pots will be 20 - 35 cm I think. 

In summer it should still be possible to have it (almost) dry out once a week. In winter it will rarely or never dry out, even if using small pots, so I don't think using larger pots would change anything in winter. I think in that case it would actually be better to have larger pots with lower saturation point than small pots.

I don't like using rocks or anything at the bottom. I tried that at the beginning using some gravel, mostly to make the pots a bit heavier and also thinking it might help water to flow out of the holes at the bottom of the pots.  But what happened was that the citrus liked this thin layer of gravel and grew all it's roots there instead of in the soil. So when the weather started to become hotter, the plants had a lack of water because most of the roots had grown inside the layer of gravel, which didn't hold much water. And even with daily watering it would just cause the soil above it to stay wet and risk root rot. Because of this I prefer to make the substrate as homogenous as possible. Which also means I don't want sand to move to the lower half of the pot and perlite to move to the top half.


Some good information here in the topic, comments are still welcome of course, but I think I will have to experiment to really get further now. Buy a bag of sand and see how coarse it is, see if I can easily sift out the finest particles / dust. Will have to wait a few weeks before I have time for that unfortunately.

Maybe I'll start with something like this:
25% perlite
25% light potting soil   
25% coco coir
25% sand

And then start changing the percentages and see how the soil behaves.

Like @pagnr says it will be a bit like cooking. I suspect that the ideal mix will also depend on the exact type of sand, potting soil and coco coir. I imagine the type of sand and soil / coco coir can influence how they cling to each other, same for the perlite.  Which may influence how the amounts of each ingrediënt will have an effect on if the mix stays homogenous

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Yet another soil thread
« on: February 20, 2023, 03:37:56 PM »
I think 30% coir and 30% potting soil will be too wet. I realize that getting a coarse mix in around the roots may be an issue. But a wet mix that soon becomes fine and water logged is worse. Maybe thin out the roots?

Yes, this is the also the doubt I still had.

I read that for sand to not clog up the soil, it's most important that it's coarse (sharp and large). I can buy 0-4mm sand and maybe see if I can have and easy/quick way to seeve out the finest particles / dust. Then I can use more sand and go to something like this maybe:

30% perlite
25% light potting soil   
25% coco coir
20% sand

Or even less organic matter:

30% perlite
25% light potting soil   
20% coco coir
25% sand

Flushing with clean water will not get rid of the problem. Coconut works as a sorbing material and sodium ions have come into contact with it. When you apply fertilizers, sodium will be released, being replaced by magnesium. There will be a slight sodium poisoning and magnesium deficiency.
It needs to be soaked in magnesium salts. Magnesium sulfate or magnesium nitrate will do.
Or you can do nothing, give more magnesium when feeding. But it's less controllable.

I read about using epsom salt to soak it, which is easy enough to find, but people also say you need to add Calcium Nitrate as well, which seems more of a hassle to find. If epsom salt can do the trick I will do that.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Yet another soil thread
« on: February 20, 2023, 08:11:05 AM »
Most coir brands should have an analysis, Ec for salinity, cation exchange capacity and K Potassium levels.

It's a cheap product/brand so there is no information. It's €1 per brick. Coco coir is not used very much here it seems, because I haven't found it it in home improvement or gardening stores. I think I will put it in a bucket with holes at the bottom and run a bit of water through it, that wouldn't take too much effort.

You should investigate the availability of Danish Moler Clay in Belgium. Here in England it is expensive if bought directly for horticultural use but can be found much cheaper when sold for use as cat litter or oil-spill absorbant.

I have looked at the kitty liter as well, Linda Moler is supposedly a brand that has the good stuff. It's about €12 for 20 liters, still much more expensive than my perlite, but the problem is that I would have to find it in a local store in my city and I'm not sure I will. I'll keep an eye out though. Having it shipped to me makes it too expensive.

I found a similar problem with large coir husk chips. When Citrus seedling root grow thru the chip it causes rot on the root section in the chip. They hold too much water.

Yes, I didn't look for it, so maybe it's my imagination, but I feel like I've seen some less healthy roots that went through pine bark as well. I think the pine bark holds less water (at least when not decomposed yet), but maybe it can still suffocate.

I'm currently thinking in the direction of something like this:

30% coarse perlite
30% light potting soil   
30% coco coir
10% sand

No pine bark or coco husk, this will also help it to get between all the roots. My plants are still small, if they were larger I think it would be less of a problem to use larger chunks of material.

I'm still a bit unsure about how much sand I can use, afraid it will not stay mixed and start to fill in pores in the soil. For the other ingredients I think I need to mix them up and then see how it feels and if I want to adjust the percentages.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Yet another soil thread
« on: February 19, 2023, 07:19:35 PM »
The wood chips, coarse perlite and potting soil make a good useable 5-1-1 blend.  I have many container trees growing in such a blend, and they are all doing fine.  Also, about a year and a half ago I planted a lime tree in a 20 gallon container using a 50/50 blend of Turface MVP and peat moss.

I wish I could have gotten Turface, but that kind of product I couldn't seem to find unless buying 1m2 of it. Same for pumice. So I ended up with the perlite.

I'm afraid my pine bark mulch is too coarse. I used it in my previous mix and I have the problem that some plants are able to "wiggle" too much, the substrate seems too loose, they are not kept sturdy in their pots. I think maybe the mix is too coarse and it's not able to get in between all the roots when repotting.

This is what I made last time:

9 cups lava (5 cups fine lava 4-8mm and 4 cups coarse 5-15mm)
7 cups light potting soil
6 cups pine bark mulch (10 - 25mm)
1 cup sand

I liked using sand as well, but I'm afraid that it will wash down and not stay homogenous in the soil, does anyone have knowledge about that? I think it might be fine in regular soil, but because it is the goal to have airy soil, it seems the sand might be able to wash downwards.

I find citrus is not very sensitive to coir mixes, a good citrus rootstock should have decent salt tolerance.

I'm reading that it could be fine in smaller amounts, for example 30% coco in the mix, while 50+ percent could cause problems. But it's always guessing how high you can go unless you know how much salt is in the coco.

For example maybe I could do something like this:

25% perlite
35% light potting soil
10% pine bark
10% coco husk
20% coco coir

Still a little bit of pine bark, but not too much because it's coarse, the perlite will also help because it's smaller when compared to the lava I put in my previous soil. And using 30% coco might be fine without going through a whole treatment process. 

EDIT: Also any tips on what the maximum percentage of perlite to use could be? I'm also a bit worried that everything will tip over with a gust of wind :p

Citrus General Discussion / Yet another soil thread
« on: February 19, 2023, 10:13:14 AM »
I try to do my own research but after using lava split/grit last time and this apparently being not the ideal choice for citrus, I wanted to make sure to make a good mix this time. Especially because I'll be repotting 50 or so plants.

What I have around at the moment is:
- Coarse perlite 2 - 6 mm 
- COMPO Bio Potting soil - Extra light (pic: bottom right)
- Pine bark mulch 10 - 25mm (pic: bottom left)
- Coco husk mulch - compressed blocks - (pic: top left)
- 100% Coco potting soil - compressed blocks - (pic: top right)

Pot sizes: 20 - 30 cm
Climate: Belgium
Winter: outdoors (wet)
Summer: hot rooftop
Rootstock: mostly Poncirus, few C4475

For the coco products I hear about a problem with salt. Some say it's fine, some say to rinse it with water, some say to rinse it with certain products... Is it worth the effort or better to use something else...

I'm only in my second year growing citrus so I hope I can get some advice from people with a little more experience :)

I haven't tasted Tachibana yet, but I also think it's an interesting fruit. Sudachi is a cross between Yuzu and Tachibana if I'm not mistaken.
I've also read that in general crossing with Tachibana can give interesting and appealing taste to the resulting hybrid.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: varieties to eat in whole
« on: February 08, 2023, 10:34:51 AM »
Has Yuzu really a sweet edible peel? I have two Yuzu trees. Plants and fruits look as Yuzu. The juice was also interestingly aromatic. But the peel was a bit bitter, certainly useful for baking etc. but I did not like to eat it. Too bitter. Are there Yuzu varieties around with different peel?

To me it's not sweet. It's a bit bitter as well, but not as bad as some other citrus. I'd say it's not disgusting to eat, but also not interesting to eat as it is.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: varieties to eat in whole
« on: February 07, 2023, 08:32:48 AM »
I think people eat Eremorange whole. Someone also told me they prefer Citrangeremo over Eremorange for eating, and prefer Eremorange for marmelade. There is also Eremomandarin but it's sour I think. I don't know exactly how sweet Citrangeremo and Eremorange are, I haven't had fruit yet. 

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Ichanglemonquat?
« on: February 04, 2023, 07:31:09 PM »
Why not cross a 0F/-18C Marumi kumquat with a 10F Harvey lemon.

I have received a Marumi kumquat (

This one is grafted on Carrizo and the Nameiwa I received some time ago is on C35 so in a few weeks I'll graft both onto Poncirus and then I'll be able to see how they compare in handling the cold. Might take a few years for results though :p

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: My citrus collection [EU - Antwerp]
« on: January 29, 2023, 10:28:42 AM »
So on the 12th of January my order from Adavo arrived.

The C4475 seedlings had been taken out of their pots and grouped together in plastic bags. From some of the soil that was still holding shape I could see that they likely used the same as what I put them back into (7x7x18 I think).

I ordered 10, but I got a few extra it seems, that's nice. Looking neat after putting them all in pots. The size is not too bad for grafting:

I ordered scions from Ichang Lemon CRC1215, Ichangquat, Eremorange and Eisenhut Citradia 139. Placed them in a shady spot outdoors in a bucket with some water. I grafted part of them the day they arrived and part of them the day after:

Some of the scions, and the C4475 seedlings as well, seemed to be infested with bugs. Not sure if they are aphids or mites, or something else? I rinsed everything under running water and hope it doesn't spread. Might spray the C4475 with some soapy water and neem oil in a few days in case any survived.

Another downside was that some of the scions were quite thin. Especially the Eremorange seems a bit too thin and immature. I think I'm good at grafting, but this is seriously annoying to work with, keep in mind my fingers are already quite slender:

Anyway, I still managed to get some reasonable grafts with it, so fingers crossed

Another hurdle is that my rootstock was still dormant. I didn't put them indoors beforehand, because I didn't know what size of scions I would receive and couldn't pick out the right size of rootstock. I also didn't want to wake up all my rootstock and then have to put most of them outside again.

So I put a heating pad inside a cardboard box and put the newly grafted plants in there. Hoping that the heating pad would quickly wake the rootstock up. For the first week I left them in a cold room, between 12 and 15°C. So the rootstock would be warm, but the scions cool. After that week I placed them in a room of maybe 18°C. A few centimeters deep the soil is 23°C. Haven't measured deeper down (warmer).

Usually I grafted end of March or later and with freshly cut scions, so I'm curious how this will end up.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Ichanglemonquat?
« on: January 21, 2023, 03:49:08 PM »
Yes, the seeds came from Ilya, but one thing to consider is that Ilya's tree is growing in a very protected spot on the inner corner of two high walls of his house. 

Another factor might be the climate. I suspect there may be something a little bit different about Europe (specifically France's) climate compared to the U.S. PNW. Although the PNW region and France are very similar, zone 8a in Europe may translate to more stable temperatures with fewer ups and downs than in the U.S. I am not sure. It seems many have had more success with varieties in zone 8a Europe than I have had with those varieties here.
Ilya also lives not too far from Paris, which might further be helping, preventing things from getting too cold.

It went down to almost 12 degrees F, maybe only 14 degrees F (let's say -11 degrees C ),  buried in a foot of snow.

Yeah climate might be quite different, a foot of snow also doesn't even happen here. I'm on the edge between zone 8A and 8B as well, and even though Ilya's might be in a good protected spot, temperatures don't go as low where I am when compared to his location.

Keep in mind though that my Ichangquat should be exactly the same as Ilya's, as far as I know, he supplied scions to Adavo and now I got scions from Adavo. So with seedlings it's more of a gamble. Would be interesting to know if it would have made a difference if yours was from a scion from 672 instead of a seed, but we'll never know. At least it seems there is a fair bit of difference in hardiness between Ichangquat seedlings, because other (F1?) Ichangquats have been said to not be as hardy I think.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Ichanglemonquat?
« on: January 20, 2023, 07:07:56 PM »
Why not cross a 0F/-18C Marumi kumquat with a 10F Harvey lemon.

Marumi seems like it could be interesting, although it seems there is no good consensus on the hardiness of it. Here in Europe, and mainly in France, the Nameiwa has more fame for being a good hardy kumquat. I've not heard much of Marumi so I didn't think it was something interesting. For example, this French nursery lists Nameiwa at -15 and Marumi at -12, same as Nagami, Meiwa and Fukushu. Of course this doesn't mean that it's correct, but this information seems to be the trend in EU or in France.

I asked Eyeckr about it because he has had both. He says Nameiwa and Marumi are close, possibly Marumi a little bit hardier if he had to guess. I'll give Marumi a chance maybe, if someone can help me with a scion [EU], send me a message!

I think 10F for Harvey Lemon might be a bit optimistic (like 0F for Marumi as well), and I'm not sure if this cultivar exists in Europe. I myself don't think Harvey Lemon would necessarily give better chances at a good result than Ichang Lemon.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Ichanglemonquat?
« on: January 20, 2023, 08:50:11 AM »
I have tried growing small plants of Ichanguat grown from seed, and an Ichang lemon in a container outside, in the U.S. PNW zone 8a. I have found these plants can not really grow well here, not without some degree of protection. They will seem to barely survive, and then a colder winter than normal will come along one year and wipe the plants out.

Something strange I have noticed, one year the plants seemed to make it through the winter great, the next year the plants were almost completely destroyed, but it was not the same year. One plant might due well in one year but not another, and then the next year it was the reverse.

Two of the Ichangquat seedlings are dead now, one had a tiny bit of green only an inch above the base but looked close to death. The Ichang lemon looked like it was almost completely killed, but then the next year managed to recover and then survive through the winter outside okay, while other varieties that had done better than Ichang lemon in previous years died. If Ichang lemon has any chance of long term success in this climate, it would only be in a very protected spot, like in the corner of a house with walls surrounding it on two sides.

The Yuzu did not do well last year either. One finally died after a few years of slow decline. That one was planted in a semi-protected spot and was on grafted rootstock.

The Ichangquat I have should be the same one as Ilya's, which for him has survived unprotected in zone 8a for 15 years or more (I don't know exactly when he got it). Which included temperatures down to -16°C I believe (3.2°F).

It seems the Ichangquat cultivar 6-7-2 is the one that is most cold hardy, while others aren't as much. Although the one we have in Europe is an F2 from 672, so I'm not sure how the US and EU versions of 672 would compare.

For Ichang Lemon I got the CRC1215 cultivar, which from reading on forums should be a good one. I have 30 cultivars of "hardy" citrus now, but I'm sure some will not make it. It will be interesting.

With Yuzu there is also a fair bit of difference in hardiness between yuzu cultivars.

What kind of temperatures did you have when your plants got wiped out?

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Ichanglemonquat?
« on: January 15, 2023, 03:20:35 PM »
Isn`t it a Nagami x Meiwa hybrid?

It should be. According to some people, like eyeckr (Virginia Fruit Grower) the Nameiwa is the same as the "ten-degree kumquat".

Which is described here

Ten-Degree Kumquat (Fortunella margarita hybrid) is an openpollinated form from Dr. John Brown of Texas. It makes an exceptionally handsome ornamental tree, with deep green leaves. The leaves are typical kumquat shape, small and pointed, but the ten-degree kumquat has leaves that have a distinctive wavy shape. Fruit are essentially seedless and small kumquat size, about 1 inch long and oblong, with a spicy taste with little juice. The tree is so named because the original survived 7°F and more than 60 hours below freezing in Texas. When grafted on trifoliate orange rootstock it eventually grows to about 12 feet tall, making a large globose shrub or small tree.
Flavor: Semi-sweet kumquat, no off-flavors, good quality.
Uses: Dessert, preserves.

I'm not 100% confident that these are always exactly the same cultivar. I don't really see the wavy shape on my plant, unless I don't understand what they try to describe with it.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Ichanglemonquat?
« on: January 14, 2023, 07:46:18 PM »
Where does one get a nameiwa.

Mine is from Vessieres in France. The cultivar is also available in the US, I think it was created in Texas (not sure though). 

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Ichanglemonquat?
« on: January 14, 2023, 05:02:36 PM »
I see potential in Meiwa Kumquat. It is sweet and maybe hybrids are more likely to be sweet then too... but I am only guessing. How is Nameiwa?

I agree that it would be goot to have some sweetness. From what I read the Nameiwa is good for eating as they are, on equal level with Meiwa. Although this does not have to mean that it is exactly as sweet. At least the Nameiwa is supposedly more hardy than either Nagami or Meiwa, so that is a plus. 

Edit: Translated from Vessieres about Nameiwa:

"The fruit is a small, oval to round, extremely sweet kumquat. The skin is crisp and soft. The pulp is juicy and sweet too. Powerful aromas of almost mandarin kumquat. Few seeds."

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Ichanglemonquat?
« on: January 14, 2023, 11:48:57 AM »
Haha, yes the naming might get confusing. Maybe 'Shangyuanquat' would be better? :p

I received the CRC 1215 cultivar of Ichang Lemon this week and grafted it, and I have recently received the Nameiwa kumquat as a plant (although I will cut scions from it), so when I have the opportunity it is something I would like to cross. Should I do this two ways, one with Ichang Lemon as pollinator and one with Kumquat als pollinator?

Ichangquat is also already high on my list to make many different crosses with. And also Ichang 'IVIA' x Nameiwa. Which would be an Ichangquat, but maybe little bit different.

I don't have lemonquat and don't plan on getting it so that's for someone else to do :p

Cold Hardy Citrus / Ichanglemonquat?
« on: January 14, 2023, 07:39:08 AM »

Yesterday I was grafting Ichangquat and Ichang Lemon, then I was thinking: There is Ichangquat and there is Lemonquat (sunquat), so what about an Ichang-Lemon-quat?

Ichangquat is very hardy, but is a bit behind in fruit quality. Lemonquat has higher fruit quality, but lacks hardiness. So Ichanglemonquat could be interesting?

Anyone ever heard of it existing? Or if it doesn't, is there a reason nobody has made it yet? Is it difficult?

Best regards,

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