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I hate conerainers…never will I use them again.I had the same problem with root pruning pots, was cursing while trying to scrape them out with a table fork. then one day by accident they got flooded and i was repotting the next day, and when the soil was completely soaked and soft, they came out nicely en bloc without any damage to the roots. From now on, I always soak them the night before transplanting, and I don't have to use the fork any longer))
It’s way too hard to repot trees. They would just not come out …I got really angry 😤
Get a slightly wider pit so it’s easier to repot.
John, Gold Finger is not one of the ones that I have grown yet. Mysore, Rajapuri, Manzano, Ice Cream, Orinocco, Dwarf Cavendish, and Gran Nain.
Satya, are you still looking for SK Carambola?
. My grafts have grown slowly, one or two flushes since that time i grafted. Since i am in the process of moving out of the country, i will be selling the whole tree, 15g with 5-6 different branches grafted with #6 and #7 and one have a branch with suebelle. The rootstock is the seedling tree that you sent me. My best FL cultivar in terms of taste is also Younghan's Gold.
Yes mamoncillo or guinepas/guineps. Where were you at in Palm Beach? I'd like to go by there and buy someThey sell them on many big intersections in South Florida, mostly the ones that have long constant traffic jams
- exits from 95.... Hermacito means little brother, so probably the lady had a close relationship with the tree that produced the fruit.
Good morning, like everyone else I'm looking at the white okinawan bitter melon variety from Baker Creek. I've never tasted bitter melon before. Is it worth growing as a FL summer crop? In these inflationary times, I want to try and grow some of my own veggies during the summer, but only things that are of decent eating quality. I'm not interested in the arils that much, more the vegetable itself. Is bitter melon decent tasting and will grow well in south FL summer?Absolutely! The flesh to seed ratio in that variety is good, fruit is not very bitter like its cousins (Chinese or Indian bitter melons that are really bitter) and the vine is very productive. I have one plant and it produces 2-3 fruits every day. Just needs full sun and adequate watering if a dry spell comes.
[size=78%] [/size] as long as you have taro (colocasia esculenta) they all can be cooked, it just varies by cook time. the bun-long Chinese taro is known here in hawaii as one of the most favorable with the shortest cook times. can be fully edible in 20 minutes of boiling. about two months ago i was desiring leaves. i went out to some of my plants and harvested a large pot full of leaves. we cooked them for 4 hours and it still had some slight itch. we cooked it another two hours the second day and still had some light itch. nothing horrible, but enough to notice. ive decided not to eat that one anymore. most of the small sized taro corms sold in stores/farmers markets here is the bun-long variety.I also haven't had luck with cooking colocasia leaves - oxalates never broke down, however long I cooked it. When I was in India, I was taught a very cool recipe with chickpea dough wrapped in colocasia leaves and refried. They didn't have the slightest oxalic tingle. Maybe different species of colocasia? Unfortunately I have no way to check now, but the dish was delicious. Wanted to replicate here but no luck.
if youre up on your botany you can figure out what variety you have. but being on the mainland im not sure what other cultivars you have. we can narrow things down pretty quickly here in hawaii by assuming most are local varieties plus only a few commercial non-hawaiian cultivars. heres the best site ive found for information.
http://bentut.github.io/kupunakalo/index.php/kalo_varieties/detail/bun-long/index.html
id prefer to collect a specimen from a known cultivator and be sure about variety rather than messing around with unknown varieties. but ive yet to come across for sure known edible leaf varieties. ive found other taro relatives for short cook times, but for some reason taro is a hard one for me to find. even here in the apex of ancient taro cultivation
"following this logic, all grafted trees should be susceptible and die." = FALSEfollowing this logic, all grafted trees should be susceptible and die. What makes a tree grafted to itself more disease susceptible? it won't be a runt, it'll just be a leaderless grafted tree. If anything, trimming will give more chances for parasites to attack the tree than one graft, especially in wet climates. Plus, takes so much time when you have many trees. Grove maintenance takes lots of time if you do it without chemicals, and to add trimming to that would mean more days working haha.Some of my mango trees are over 30 years old. I have never pruned more than once a year and I often skip a year. I do not see the big deal in just taking off 1/3 to 1/2 of the canopy after harvest. IMO makes no sense to prune 6-8 times a year unless you are sculpturing the tree like at disney making it look like perhaps micky mouse.I'm planting 1000 trees in my new farm, and won't have time to excessively prune anything. a solution to managing both small backyard trees and large farms. you won't need to prune 6-8 times,
Summer pruning does dwarf a tree, some. I summer prune my trees about 6-8 times.
IMO a big tree cut low should produce as much fruit as a runt dwarf tree that is probably more susceptible to not surviving those 30 years as a producing tree anyways.
I guess I just never understood this topic or the need for producing a slow growing runt tree that might die with disease before it ever produces fruit.
But then again, I have no problem handling a chainsaw...
Maybe in Florida and especially your property soil doesn't make them grow super tall and wide because of the special pH, sandy nature, whatever; my FL property is entirely coral and trees also don't grow as tall, and in my Costa Rica property mango trees are super compact probably because of high winds, but that's not always the case, especially in the real tropics with ultra fertile soils, as Nef described above.
Thanks for sharing your experience though.
Satya, You have just failed your Reading Comprehension Test......
All = 100 percent = Total amount
This statement "that is probably more susceptible" implies lack of 100 percent probability.... It was illogical by you to say otherwise....
Inverted graft !That will do itthat's a cool technique, thanks! does it work on all trees? Why is it not used more?
Low nitrogen fertilizing along with letting a precocious tree hold fruit early can have a stunting effect. While it doesn't always work, and can also kill a tree, sometime it does have a stunting effect. One of my oldest trees was a Hatcher planted in the ground as a 3 gal. Here is a photo of it 10 years later.
After holding lots of fruit it would only have a few growth spurts before flowering again. It has since been top worked to a Orange Sherbet which, so far, is growing more than fruiting.
following this logic, all grafted trees should be susceptible and die. What makes a tree grafted to itself more disease susceptible? it won't be a runt, it'll just be a leaderless grafted tree. If anything, trimming will give more chances for parasites to attack the tree than one graft, especially in wet climates. Plus, takes so much time when you have many trees. Grove maintenance takes lots of time if you do it without chemicals, and to add trimming to that would mean more days working haha.Some of my mango trees are over 30 years old. I have never pruned more than once a year and I often skip a year. I do not see the big deal in just taking off 1/3 to 1/2 of the canopy after harvest. IMO makes no sense to prune 6-8 times a year unless you are sculpturing the tree like at disney making it look like perhaps micky mouse.I'm planting 1000 trees in my new farm, and won't have time to excessively prune anything. a solution to managing both small backyard trees and large farms. you won't need to prune 6-8 times,
Summer pruning does dwarf a tree, some. I summer prune my trees about 6-8 times.
IMO a big tree cut low should produce as much fruit as a runt dwarf tree that is probably more susceptible to not surviving those 30 years as a producing tree anyways.
I guess I just never understood this topic or the need for producing a slow growing runt tree that might die with disease before it ever produces fruit.
But then again, I have no problem handling a chainsaw...
I'm asking you again, did you try doing that or is it just your conjecture? I'm not trying to be abrasive, just really interested whether your words are based on personal experience.
Summer pruning does dwarf a tree, some. I summer prune my trees about 6-8 times.
Grafting a tree to itself isn't going to dwarf a vigorous tree either. It will just push up elsewhere.
In my IMHO letting them fruit young also is another way of naturally dwarfing trees.
45 views and no replies. That probably tells you something. I'll give my opinion.
I don't see any reason why grafting a tree to itself would cause much dwarfing. I won't say no dwarfing. I think the effect will be about the same as some pruning. Pruning can cause some dwarfing. But it's not going to keep a big tree a small tree. Just that one graft won't have much effect. Maybe about the same as one pruning.
and this one is about quite an interesting technique of dwarfing a vigorous tree. Why haven't I thought of it before myself? Technically it's very easy to do, anyone can do it. https://youtu.be/iiFEvvg7UMk👀👀👀Yes, it is, thanks for reminding, i will cross it off.
not good enough. @FBI Get 'Em!!!!
