The Tropical Fruit Forum

I’ll report on these on Monday, should be above freezing on Monday and should be straight.

It also would be interesting, how d the grafted plants are and how long they have been planted in ground - thanks

5* star citrumelo - Grafted
Dunstan citrumelo - own
Taitri - own
Ichang Papeda - Grafted
Dimicelli - Grafted
Ventura Lemandarin - own
Citrangremo -Grafted
F2 Cirus glauca/finger lime? - own
F2 Citrus australis - own
N1Tri x Citrus - own
Ichangstar60 x Citrus - own
Citrus hongheensis x Citrus - own
Razzlequat - own
Citrus taiwanica - own
Citrus glauca x shek - grafted
All grafted are on poncirus

I also have ornamental trees like Cinnamomum, and Persea I may report on.

I also think, the trees will recover in spring summer. If no freezes anymore outside I would put them outside paybattention to the roots not watering to often and a feew days not too much sun.

@vnomonee and perplaxed, very interested in your results, though some damages are not seen now but only in april/ may. We had freeze in winter 2020/21 down to 3,6 F and after freeze I thought plants to be still green and don' t hit by freeze, but then they died until april/may.
We had a few days freeze in December down to 8,6 F (unusual for december) but up to now only a few new branches a little bit hurt, nearly no damages.

1rainman, thanks for your post, very interesting, how every location had it s own difficulties. We don't have HLB (and don' t get it hopefully) but we have in z7 sometimes hard freezes, so that in ground planted varieties have to be very hardy, and early fruit ripening as e.g. satsumas.
Up to now we only still know one single variety which has these abilities, the Chimäre Prag, a genetical mix of Poncirus and Satsuma. I have it in ground the 3. Winter but still no fruits yet, first flower this summer. But this variety is susceptible at my place to freeze and wintersun otherwise it gets bark cracks, needs protection.
What I didn' t know and didn ' t test in my place, that Pomelo is hardier than Grapefruit.

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A few F² Citranges survived -11,8 F ( -24,5 C) in January 2019.

Kumin, you did really a extraordinary breeding and selection, not sure if Poncirus is really much hardier. Only a pity, that frosthardiness and edibility are still in a big distance and will need a lot of further time and work. To my knowledge the only citrus with excellent  fruit when ripe and really frosthardy citrus is Thomasville Citrangequat with hardiness about - 15 ° C but still one problem is that fruit ripens in spring and will be spoilt in winter freeze under -5 ° C.

First cold spell (hopefully the only) this winter brought several frostdays down to - 8,6 °F / -12.9 ° C.
Interesting how microclimate differs by different places and passive protection.

Here the coldest place
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Only 3 m distance but in protection of a short wall brings 2 ° C of higher temperature



the 2 year old seedlings, see last post, with backwall greenhouse and front protection airbubblefleece shows
a gain of about 4° C




last (warmest) place and double protection with fleece and air bubble fleece shows a gain of nearly 7 ° C of cold reduction.
On second picture are the protected plants, one and two year old graftings of slava micurina, Duncan grapefruit and Bloomsweet graft.




Conclusion, for shorter periods passive protecton can be very helpfull against frost damage, also protected places in the garden.

very nice harvest and excellent overview in comparing the different varieties by size.
Digital taste comparison would be nice 

Very nice  Seeds are no problem for me either

Yes this is it, interesting that they confirm my  experience with early ripening and good for cooler climates

very nice 👍 Ate my first Taroccos this year in spring in Italy.
For me Tarocco is the best Orange, so fine, tasty and juicy. Now I have 3 Tarocco plants in my collection, but still no fruits yet.

It helps.

I would say yes.
I planted 1 year old seedlings last summer in ground in front of my green house  and they survived -6C the last mild winter with not very much damage, this summer they have good grown further. So if they are a little bit older, I think -7 should be possible perhaps even without damage . Important is to brung them already in late spring in earth for good establishment until winter begins.

I have Morton two years old, no fruits yet either. Can we see pictures of your plant? Is Thomasville worth it in zone 7a? I want a tree but will have to be in the ground. I don't think Morton can survive outside.

I have documented the development of my in ground planted citrus hybrids, also Morton and Thomasville in this post, there you can see pictures and how they managed two winters, the first very hard, the second more mildly. But Thomasville is one of my most hardy citrus varieties.
https://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=43470.25

Some new candidates for winterhardiness test.
Depending on freeze depth and duration no or one or double layer frost cloth as protection in planning.
From left to right:
Meyer lemon seedlings, 1,5 years
ichangquat graft on PT, 1 year old
Ichangstar 60 seedlings in the middle
Star ruby seedlings, 1,5 year old on the right

@ Millet and Brian, yes I also thought or expected Chandler to get pink, but if taste is excellent this is more important  .
Perhaps the pink coloration comes only in the warmer climates than ours.
In every case I was very pleased to be able to harvest in the same year than blooming and before winter, didn ' expect that, though this year we had a hot and dry summer.