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Topics - brian

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151
Citrus General Discussion / nippon orangequat
« on: March 01, 2016, 01:38:22 PM »
This is the third or so fruit I've gotten from this tree.  Much like the Indio Mandarinquat it is edible but underwhelming.  The rind has little flavor, the interior tastes much like a navel orange but somewhat less sweet and with more pith.  Only a couple seeds.  Hopefully it will improve over time.  I'm going to let the others get a darker orange before I pick them.  This one was pretty soft already, though.

The size of the fruit is quite large for a kumquat hybrid, bigger than a clementine.


152
Citrus General Discussion / first Indio Mandarinquat
« on: February 21, 2016, 02:07:13 PM »
I picked my first one today.  I'm disappointed, it isn't nearly as good as other kumquats.  The juice and pulp is decent, the skin is thin and sort of dry, has little to no flavor or sweetness.
  I would suggest anybody interested in these to try another variety.

153
Citrus General Discussion / Nordman Seedless Nagami Kumquat
« on: February 03, 2016, 02:47:56 PM »
These things are great.  Seeded Nagami is obsolete.


154
Citrus General Discussion / guttation & sooty mold in my greenhouse
« on: December 27, 2015, 01:55:15 PM »
I've started noticing increasing coverage of sooty mold on my citrus in my winter greenhouse.  I distinctly remember seeing large amounts of fresh guttation drops on my trees a month ago.  I didn't know what guttation was until Millet described it last year.  This time the droplets were still wet with consistency and taste of syrup.  In addition, I've had various scale insects all over my trees that I've been effectively controlling with insecticidal soap spray.  However, the extra sap excreted from the insects persists after their death.  Finally, because it has been a freakishly warm and humid winter, my greenhouse is extremely humid all the time.  I have been keeping it as airtight as possible to conserve heat, which in retrospect isn't necessary at all it just became a habit after previous cold, dry winters. 

So, I started researching sooty mold control and every single article discussed only insect injury control to prevent mold.  Nothing about guttation.  Researching guttation and mold specifically led me to this article on JSTOR.  My notes below...

From:

Guttation Injuries of Plants
S. S. Ivanoff
Botanical Review
Vol. 29, No. 2 (Apr. - Jun., 1963), pp. 202-229

- "guttation occurs ... when conditions for absorbtion of water by roots are very favorable, and those for transpiration are unfavorable"
- "cool mornings followed by warm days provide excellent conditions for guttation ... with high relative humidity plant transpiration is reduced almost to zero"
- "in a greenhouse guttation may be induced in early mornings on several species of plants by keeping the soil temperature high, 78-90F, and the relative humidity of the air nearly 100%, and the soil moisture abundant"

- exuded salts strongly correlated with fruit drop on citrus trees ("due to excessive and drastic loss of nutrients in a short time")
- exuded salts themselves cause injury to leaves (applying salts collected from affected leaves to unaffected leaves caused similar injury - on onions)
- correlation between guttation and fungal infection

- guttation-caused injuries classified as:
   chlorosis
   necrosis
   loss of leaves by necrosis
   fruit drop


All this makes sense in my situation except for the soil temperatures.   Because my heater is set at 55F, and undersized, morning soil temperatures of often in the 50F range and warm up to mid-60s on warm days, while air temperatures are often 68-78F because of the sunlight.   So, my tree soil is not nearly as warm as the 78-90F described as ideal guttation conditions above, but it is very moist.  In addition, its extremely humid in my greenhouse.  My sensor says 80%RF all the time, but I don't think I've ever seen it indicate much above 80% even when outdoors on a rainy day so it is likely even higher. 

So, it sounds like the best thing I can do to control this is to lower the humidity in the greenhouse.  I'll begin opening the door up on reasonably warm days for ventilation, and instead of routinely watering to excess I will try to water only enough to soak the containers.  I also wash the larger sooty mold deposits off by hand.

155
Citrus General Discussion / new greenhouse planning
« on: December 08, 2015, 12:03:23 PM »
Next spring I'm getting married.  Along with that, we are looking at moving to a house with more land (in the same area - Southeast Pennsylvania).  Wife-to-be fully supports my citrus hobby and I am planning on constructing a free-standing greenhouse at the new property.  I am hoping to be able to ventilate well enough to keep my trees inside year-round, planting most directly into the ground.  I'm not sure how realistic this is with 90+F summer high temps here.  I have just begun my preliminary research into this, so I still have a ton of unanswered questions.  I am thinking of something like this http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/product/ventmaster-30-commercial-greenhouse/commercial-greenhouses as the frame/ventilation solution.   I have an initial budget of ~$15-20k.  I don't have a particular size in mind, but I'm thinking at least 25'x50', which is about quadruple my current floorspace, and 15'+ tall, which is twice my current height.  I don't need to move my plants in the first winter as I will still have access to my existing winter greenhouse for the next year at least. 



I know that Millet has a substantial greenhouse in a temperate climate that I can use for inspiration.  I imagine others on this forum have some experience with these things also.  Some of the big questions I have are...

Glazing material:  If I remember correctly, inflated PET sheeting is the best in terms of cost and insulation, but isn't very durable.   Will PET stand up to snow load in temperate states?  I've been extremely happy with the dual-layer 8mm rigid polycarbonate that I use for my winter greenhouse, though I can feel the heat loss through it in winter.  I'm thinking 10mm+ if I go this route.   It isn't cheap, but is far cheaper than something like glass.  I haven't priced glazing a structure this large yet.

Ventilation: My winter greenhouse seems to be fine when buttoned up all the time.  That is, I have zero ventilation beyond whatever leaks out from cracks in the floors, walls, etc.   It doesn't seem to be starved for CO2 as I get lots of new growth each winter.  Is this reasonable to expect for a larger greenhouse or will I need to either ventilate in winter or provide a supplemental CO2 source?  I haven't had an problems with condensation yet.

Heating:  I believe natural gas is the cheapest heat source at the moment.  Would make sense to allow some of the exhaust gasses to flow inside the greenhouse to add C02?  Obviously you would need some kind of sensors to detect dangerous pollutants or CO2/CO levels.  But my understanding is that natgas & propane can be very clean burning if properly maintained.   

Cooling:  my winter greenhouse gets above 115F in the summer when it is empty and the plants are all outside.  Is it possible to keep temperatures reasonable with only natural+fan ventilation?  It would certainly be possible to have a shade cloth either year-round or in the warmer months only.  I'm not sure how much air conditioning would cost but I imagine it would blow my budget entirely and I'd have to rethink the whole project.  It gets humid in summer here so evaporative cooling may not be effective.

Extra insulation: I can feel that the main source of heat loss in my winter greenhouse is the polycarbonate glazed face.  I wonder if it is realistic to have some kind of insulation blanket can roll down at night over the roof of the whole structure - assuming there's no snow?  I could also have grow lights running at this time as supplemental light. 

Water: it looks like most greenhouses can support gutters, which means rain barrels are an easy source of water for plants.  In addition, I would run a water line & spicket out to the greenhouse.  I know that others are using water barrels for heat storage also, I should be able to do the same.

156
Citrus General Discussion / winter greenhouse, year three
« on: October 23, 2015, 07:46:41 PM »
The 10-day forecast in southeastern Pennsylvania shows mostly lows in the range of 30-40F.  Tonight I hauled all thirty or so trees up to my garage attic greenhouse (original thread here: http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=13357.0).   Luckily this year we only had one freeze so far, so I didn't have to keep taking them inside/outside before finally moving them their winter home. 

Since repotting, my largest tree is probably 75lbs when mostly dry, including the container & medium, and as tall as I am.  Carrying it up a flight of stairs isn't the most fun, but it is still bearable.  I now very much appreciate my FourWinds dwarf trees that have the nearly the same trunk thickness and rootball size but much lower, bushier canopies.

I'll post some pictures tomorrow, the sun went down before I finished tonight.

157
Temperate Fruit Discussion / My trees are too tall
« on: October 10, 2015, 12:22:34 PM »
I have a small 1/4 acre orchard of supposedly dwarf & semi-dwarf trees in my side yard.  Some are now 15ft tall and producing more fruit than I can ever eat.  Because of this I don't even attempt to pick anything above my reach as there is plenty of low hanging fruit.  I am thinking of topping everything above ~10ft so I have less to spray.  Is this a bad idea?  I'm familiar with pruning recommendations and I have me trees pruned to their recommended shape (central leader for apples, open for peaches, etc.) and this would be cutting off all the leaders.  Given that the trees are old enough to have a proper support structure... any reason not to do this? 

158
Citrus General Discussion / rootstock or scion growth?
« on: August 31, 2015, 12:58:52 PM »
I can't tell if this new growth on my Australian Red Finger Lime is from the scion or rootstock.  Opinions?





159
Citrus General Discussion / limiting tree size
« on: May 24, 2015, 01:22:06 PM »
As of repotting today, my largest tree has reached the limit of my ability to move it in/out of my winter greenhouse, in terms of size and weight.  The root ball had completely filled the ~18" diameter rootmaker pot and is now in one about ~24" diameter.    This is a Home Depot tree so it may not be a dwarfing rootstock.  The original nursery tag is still attached so I may be able to contact them to find out, but regardless it seems to grow and grow.  What's the best way to maintain the current size while still getting fruit?  Cut a third or half way back each year?  Do I need to prune the rootball when using rootmaker pots?


160
Citrus General Discussion / temperate zone madness
« on: April 12, 2015, 10:59:21 PM »
It was a beautiful weekend, with a mild outlook for the next week.  I decided Saturday was the day to pull everything out of my winter greenhouse as I have a hard time keeping it cool enough on warm sunny days.  At some point the risk of overheating outweighs the risk of a freeze.

I dragged down all ~30 containers and lined them up in their usual spot outside and watered them. 



Five hours later I hear about a frost warning.  The expected low temp that night was predicted to be 42F as of noon and was now being reduced to 35  & frosty :-/
 With flowers and new growth all around I didn't want to any risk whatsoever.   So I dragged every single one in, and of course because I watered them they now weighed twice as much. 



And today they all went right back out again.  I think I've officially hit the limit of how many containers I can manage and I'm okay with that.

161
Does anybody know a source of Excalibur Red Lime or specific cultivars of Finger Limes?  I have the green finger lime but I'm told it isn't good quality.  And from what I've seen, the only place to get a Red Lime is a non-exporting state.   I live in Pennsylvania so there isn't anything locally available.

162
Citrus General Discussion / fourwindsgrowers offline?
« on: February 19, 2015, 03:59:59 PM »
The website www.fourwindsgrowers.com is now a domain reservation page.  I hope they are still in business...I wonder if they just forgot to renew their domain?

163
Citrus General Discussion / Sticky sap droplets
« on: February 13, 2015, 12:37:20 PM »
I've noticed that most of my trees seem to have areas of clear, sticky droplets on their leaves.  It only affects maybe 5% of all leaves and seems completely random.  It doesn't seem to match up with where I find mealybugs.  Any idea what this is caused by? This is in a greenhouse.

It looks like water or oil droplets but it feels like dried glue.


164
Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / where to get mail order tropicals?
« on: December 27, 2014, 04:35:41 PM »
I grow a lot of citrus trees in containers that are moved into a greenhouse in the winter.  I am looking to expand into mangoes and avocados because I've read that they thrive in similar conditions to citrus.  I found sources for avocados, but I'm having a harder time finding mangoes.  Any suggestions on where to get them mail order?

I'm looking for atoulfa/champage, because of the varieties I'v tried so far these are by far my favorite. 

165
Citrus General Discussion / Pummelo in container?
« on: December 22, 2014, 04:58:02 PM »
Is it reasonable to grow pummelo in a container?  I just tried these for the first time and they are really good.  Better than grapefruit, I think.  Also, I'm not sure if they have higher heat requirements than other citrus.  So far I've had no problems ripening oranges, mandarins, and kumquats.  It would have to weigh less than ~150lbs total, stay under 7ft tall (including container), and survive moving in/out of greenhouse for winter.

166
Citrus General Discussion / fukushu kumquats ripening
« on: December 05, 2014, 02:34:52 PM »
I think these are my new favorite citrus.  I had picked up two more of these trees in the spring and they are all coming ripe.   The fruit is amazing.


167
Citrus General Discussion / my winter greenhouse
« on: November 24, 2014, 06:14:34 PM »
I had posted my setup last year on the citrus growers forum.  I've made some minor improvements and so I figured I would give an update.

The original project was to make use of storage space above my garage.  It already needed a new roof so when replacing shingles I replaced an entire face with 8mm dual-wall polycarbonate.

The southern face of 'B' section is what became the greenhouse


This is how it looked before




I added better subfloor as the existing floorboards were barely strong enough to walk on


Work in progress




Glazing complete



Painted the floor white to maximize light


At this point it was already getting late in the season and I had to move the plants in while I worked.


Insulation - fiberglass batts covered with reflective polyisocyanate foam board.  Under the floor I also have fiberglass batts.


Added a door, cut to size and covered with foam insulation.  Doubled up the 2x4s on the walls to add depth for insulation




Added remaining wall insulation.



A nice 1F (-17C) winter day...



...with huge growth flushes



This was a year ago.  Everything has worked out beautifully.  I was able to keep it heated with two 1500w space heaters with built-in thermostats.  I had to use propane on below 0F days but I realized come springtime that what I thought was an on/off switch on the heaters was actually low/hi power and I think I was running at half power all winter!  So hopefully I won't need propane at all this year unless there is a power outage.  I try to keep it at 55F but often it drops into the 40s on cold nights.  Conveniently my local power company just started offering lower off-peak electric rates so it isn't as expensive to heat as I had feared.  From walking around feeling for cold spots on a freezing day it seems like the polycarbonate face is clearly where the heat is being lost.  If I did it again I think I would use 10mm or more.

Condensation has not been an issue at all.  I have yet to see any.  I think the heaters keep it dry.  The biggest problem was watering.  I had set up a slanted bench for watering trees, where runoff water was directed into a pipe that drained outside.  The problem was that the bench could only hold a few trees at a time, and it took hours before they stopped dripping water.  This meant I could only water a few trees a day and I had to rotate them constantly on and off the bench.  I now have twice as many trees so this would be even more impractical. 

My solution this year was to add vinyl flooring and a floor drain.  Because the floor sags very slightly, water tends to flow towards the center.  I dumped a bucket of water on the floor to see where the lowest point was and installed a drain there, with a pipe flowing outside.  I also added an extra support post in the center of the garage to ensure the added weight isn't an issue.  Now I just leave the containers on the floor and let the water spill out and find its way to the drain.

It was getting dark out but here's a picture from today


168
Citrus General Discussion / calomondins are underrated
« on: October 21, 2014, 05:04:56 PM »
I don't understand why these are considered an ornamental.  They taste great, you can peel them or eat them whole.  Very few seeds.  Great producer, easy to grow.  They're less tart than kumquats but don't have the sweet rind. 

169
Citrus General Discussion / Owari Satsuma ripeness
« on: October 01, 2014, 02:31:57 PM »
Are these ready to eat?  Some are still half-green, some bright orange. I remember some varieties are ripe when still green, but I forget which ones.



I'm not sure if I can go by calendar based timing because things got confused in my winter greenhouse.

170
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Exotic fruit in Munich
« on: September 23, 2014, 06:44:03 AM »
I'm in Germany for Oktoberfest and found an open market with an exotic fruit stand in Munich.  I finally have a chance to try some fruit I'd never tasted and see some new ones I'd never heard of. 



I bought a cacao fruit, some fresh dates, a cherimoya, and a type of mango I've never tried. 



They also had some citrus trees but nothing I don't already have growing. 



171
Citrus General Discussion / Black dots on fruit
« on: September 14, 2014, 06:41:26 PM »
All of the fruit on my persian/bearss lime have small black dots on the rind.  None of my other trees have this and they're all in the same area.  I assume it is just insect damage but I don't see any insects at the moment.  Any idea what it might be?  Looks very minor but I'm worried it could be fungal or bacterial infection.

Keep in mind I'm in Pennsylvania so most citrus pests aren't around.


172
Citrus General Discussion / Deer
« on: September 14, 2014, 06:38:13 PM »
Are deer known to eat citrus leaves/fruit?  Deer cause severe damage to my non-citrus fruit trees every year but so far have never touched the citrus.  However, now that I have fruit ripening I'm worried they will realize what they are missing out on and clean the whole crop.  It's a little to early for me to put the plants in my winter greenhouse.  I have to wait for the oak leaves to fall so it isn't shaded out.

I know hungry deer will eat *anything* but there's a ton of other foliage around until late fall.

173
Citrus General Discussion / orange fruit split
« on: August 26, 2014, 04:16:54 PM »
Found an immature orange split, still on the tree.  Never saw this before.  I google it and came up with some explanation here: http://homeorchard.ucdavis.edu/8038.pdf

Sounds like environmental factors are the cause including possible draught stress followed by sudden watering, changes in fertilization, and sunburn.  All of these are possible in my case.  We had some dry weather, I watered heavily, the sun hits fruit directly.  Some fruit are slightly discolored which I wasn't sure if was sunburn or normal ripening.  Just thought I'd share. 

This is a moro blood orange:



I ate it, it was pretty good actually. 

174
Citrus General Discussion / flying dragon seedling death
« on: July 30, 2014, 12:36:04 PM »
I planted twenty or so FD seedlings last year and again this year.  It seems that ~30% die off right after sprouting, and otherwise healthy seedlings randomly decline or die until only a small number remain.  The four that survived from last year are very healthy and green.  It looks like this year will be the same.

All were treated identically.  They're planted in the same cedar/peat/perlite mix as my larger trees and seem to have good drainage - there are holes in the bottom of the cups.  They get the same amount of water, sun, etc and shouldn't have ever dried out. 

Is this like damping off of tomcato/pepper seedlings?   Anything I can do to improve survival?  I really don't need many I was just growing them to eventually graft other varieties onto. 

These are last years survivors


And this years bunch.  A dozen already died over the past few months and there's more dead ones here.

175
Citrus General Discussion / Avoiding 'June Drop'
« on: June 30, 2014, 03:12:51 PM »
My container citrus trees are in very low maintenance mode right now - there is osmocote plus in all containers and they get a mix of rainwater and long sprinkler watering.  Aside from occasionally killing ant infestations I don't really have to touch them.   I remember hearing about June Drop from the other forum as something that was an avoidable problem this time of year.  Is it just a matter of keeping the trees from drying out?  Anything in particular to watch out for?  My oranges have already set fruit, the kumquats are blooming, and the lemons/limes are ... both. 

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