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Messages - NateTheGreat

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1
Mine seem to set fruit all year round. 6 ft tall is strange. Mine grow as bushes, don't get more than a few feet tall. And they are really drought tolerant. Maybe you have the wrong species?

2
Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: ISO Eugenia pisiformis
« on: June 03, 2024, 01:41:50 PM »
This was on his FB “Auction” page during covid before he had to make a run for it from Brazil. I didn’t make a list of all the species he claimed were toppa top flavors.
How has he been consistent with his descriptions if they are not fruiting in collections yet to know that?



Gad how many times has Sellami or someone else said “ #1 tasting Eugenia!!” At least 10-20, and then the seeds all get sold hell of high until the whales eat, seed price drops and then the same thing with a “newly discovered “ species shortly thereafter. #birdfood.
Could you name some of the 10-20 that Sellami hyped as #1 best? Other than pisiformis, burkartiana, and lemon cherry. None of which have been fruited and found to be bad, to my knowledge. Caipora was somewhat hyped by other people and Joe Hewitt said it was bad. Seems like Sellami has been pretty consistent with his top recommendations over the years.

When I searched FB groups I saw him giving top recommendation to these three several years ago, not others. They're still his favorites apparently. That's what I mean by consistent in his top recommendations. Once they're fruiting in collections we'll know whether they're accurate as well as consistent. Idk about the drama. I'm suspicious of seed sellers too, but is there evidence that his reports in particular are inaccurate?

3
Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: ISO Eugenia pisiformis
« on: June 03, 2024, 03:09:35 AM »
Gad how many times has Sellami or someone else said “ #1 tasting Eugenia!!” At least 10-20, and then the seeds all get sold hell of high until the whales eat, seed price drops and then the same thing with a “newly discovered “ species shortly thereafter. #birdfood.
Could you name some of the 10-20 that Sellami hyped as #1 best? Other than pisiformis, burkartiana, and lemon cherry. None of which have been fruited and found to be bad, to my knowledge. Caipora was somewhat hyped by other people and Joe Hewitt said it was bad. Seems like Sellami has been pretty consistent with his top recommendations over the years.

4
Harden them off in there IMO, so some die and you don't need to thin. And soon, before they get used to low-light. Shade for a few days, part sun for a few days. Never done P. guavaja from seed, but other psidium species I just germinate in full sun.

5
Eugenia reinwardtiana

6
They can be spiney, but maybe the rib count is too high. Maybe Trichocereus terscheckii.

https://thecactusking.com/plants/cactus/cereus-peruvianus

7
Probably a very unhappy peruvian apple cactus. Rotting and needs to see the sun again.

8
I feel kinda bad sometimes clogging up the main discussion board with my Yard Tour 2022 post
:O Kevin, you are one of the people really keeping this place worth reading. Please quash your self-doubt.

9
Planted Psidium striatulum from W. and Psidium amarela da Bahia / Psidium sp. Araça amarela from elouicious in November. The striatulum started coming up maybe two months ago, probably 4 of ~25 so far. The first of the 10 amarela da Bahia came up the other day. No humidity tent or heat mat, just planted in pots and left outside in the sun since November.

10
I got 3 or more stenantha to germinate in pots. They formed arches, but never pulled out of the seedcoat, and after several months rotted away. The seeds were pre-cracked to help them emerge.
Were they buried shallow in loose soil? I had a similar issue so I’m trying them seeping and tamping the soil tighter, so the seed coat comes off as the shoot pushes up through the soil.
Not really. Couldn't see the seeds prior to germination, saw the arches, couldn't quite tell which side the seed was on, definitely stuck in the soil. The shoot didn't raise the seeds above ground like some I've seen for sale stuck in the seedcoat, just stayed stuck for maybe six months, then eventually died. The latest one only had a little of the arch showing above the soil, gently covered it. Poked at it this spring and found it was dead. The first one I tried to help out of the seed coat, didn't mess with the rest. I waited for them to sprout in bag before planting. The last one was coming up probably a year after that. 

11
I got 3 or more stenantha to germinate in pots. They formed arches, but never pulled out of the seedcoat, and after several months rotted away. The seeds were pre-cracked to help them emerge.

12
I recommend Eugenia pyriformis. More of a sour fruit, and seem to grow well here. Also lots of sour psidiums. For jaboticabas, Campo Ramon from huertasurbanas is tough and pretty.

13
By that logic, should people be renaming mangoes with non-english names? Someone renames their NdM then distributes it without the name NdM attached to it would be wrong, no?

14
I say just stop renaming stuff. Each collector shouldn't create their own name. Now it's totally murky which Psidiums are the same. I refuse to use the "skittles" name for this reason.

15
Nice :)

Pyriformis.

16
I'm guessing not enough water.

17
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: 2nd best ficus fruit?
« on: May 03, 2024, 09:53:12 AM »
Nice, pics of your habrophylla? I got one seedling to grow for a few years before dying. Austrocaledonica has proven easier. No fruits yet though.

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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Are those jaboticaba seeds?
« on: April 25, 2024, 06:11:15 PM »
Not Plinia seeds. Can't say for sure they aren't Myrciaria. Yellow seeds look a bit like that, with the hair, but I don't think they are. Yellow seeds are green inside IIRC.

20
You may have convinced me to buy a greenhouse. I know it's not as easy as you make it look and sound though!

21
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Mangifera caesia/kemanga
« on: April 23, 2024, 12:36:18 AM »
Do you think they’d grow outside unprotected in south FL? Specifically Kendall
I think they should do good.
just not frost tolerant.
I wish more people were into the mango hybrids and relatives.
I think it just got staunched though as imports of mango seeds are not allowed.
I'm sure everyone would love to grow this one.

You got me curious. I've been googling this a bit, but can't find a prohibition on importing Mangifera seeds. There was a PDF from the USDA with a title starting "Federal Order for US Imports of seeds and fruits of mango ..." but the link is broken. The page of Import Federal Orders doesn't have it: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/plant-imports/how-to-import/import-federal-orders

From the google search description, the order started, "Dec 23, 2015 — Federal Order for U.S. Imports of seeds and fruits of mango, (Mangifera indica) hosts of the mango seed weevil (Sternochetus mangiferae ( ..." So potentially other Mangifera species would be exempt, if this is still in effect.

The NAPPRA list prohibits importation of Mangifera except seeds and cut flowers and greenery: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/plant-imports/nappra

I checked the APHIS import instructions for another list of prohibited genera, but don't see one: https://www.aphis.usda.gov/plant-imports/buy-plants-seeds-online/seeds-additional-requirements

Maybe it's allowed?

22
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: What is this fruit/tree?
« on: April 20, 2024, 12:02:42 PM »
Solanum diphyllum

23
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: marcotting vs rooting question
« on: April 18, 2024, 06:34:18 PM »
That is a very good answer except for the last point. Any cutting that can be rooted can be air layered. But not necessarily the other way around.
We commercially layer rambutan, for example. We must get 90% or better. We’d never get that with cuttings if any at all.
Peter

I say that because of Macadamia. I have air layered lychee on a commercial level. When we tried macadamia on a small scale we got callus formation but no roots until we cut them off and treated them like cuttings. Was it a fluke??? I don't know. Also, Atemoya can be rooted from cuttings according to Australian literature. I have never gotten it to air layer successfully because it has weak wood and the layers have always gotten snapped off by wind. In theory it works, but in practice its not practical. That is why I add the caveat.

https://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=47077.0 Macadamia can be air layered

24
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Slugs
« on: April 16, 2024, 04:04:51 PM »
I use slug pellets, which work decently, but don't replace a combined strategy. Having other plants they like more is the biggest thing. Also prevent leaving moist areas for them to hide during the day, and come out a few times each night to kill the ones you see. Really though the biggest thing is just having some weeds growing that they prefer to eat.

25
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Help strange disease on FL tomatoes
« on: April 14, 2024, 11:49:21 AM »
What do you consider successful. I'd love to see these shade grown tomato plants. Personally, Ive never even seen tomatoes for sale in the grocery from Florida.

I have farmed both coastal and inland foothills here in San Diego. There's a reason no commercial tomato grows are along the foggy marine layered coast. If you're saying shade is no problem for tomato production, then show me the evidence.

Also, yes there are a lot of successful greenhouse tomato grows in pots. But, what's the growing medium and how large is the pot?

The most concerning part of this whole post is no one mentioned the variety of tomato being grown. So yes, case closed. Bugs killed a plant put in the wrong location.


I have seen tomatoes grown very successfully in pots here in Florida (where nematodes can be a limiting factor for in-ground plants). I have also grown cherry, grape, and Campari tomatoes in shade (in the ground). I don't see any signs of a leaf disease like septoria, or early/late blight. I would be looking at a soil borne disease like fusarium or verticulum. If the plant dies, cut into the stem and look for brown dead streaks in the stem. I would also think that one of those is more likely if you have been growing the plant in the same medium as a diseased plant from before. Fresh plants in fresh soil would likely help for next year (we've passed the time to plant here in Florida now).

Idk if you're aware, but your posts come off as needlessly aggressive. You were wrong, his problem is mites not what you said, and you're perpetuating myths like water on tomato leaves causing sunburn... Now still trying to argue that you were right. Anyway, here's my local university's master gardener program saying to shade your tomatoes: https://ccmg.ucanr.edu/EdibleGardening/Protecting_Tomatoes_during_Hot_Summer_Days/

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