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Topics - nullzero

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51
Everything is going well so far I only lost a few plants since last update. A lucuma did not make it as well as a goji berry (which mistakenly got mowed over). I have a unique situation, since the irrigation system is broken needs to be setup to all the plants and attended water is sparse between (relying on my parents to attempt it during drought periods).

Remarkably, I have gotten very high survival rates for all the plants. This is due to steady rains during the months and strategic planting of plants due to drought tolerance levels. For example I have Jaboticaba plants directly down stream from the gutters and in semi shaded areas. I have also been taking advantage of using Coconut palm fiber and oak leaves as mulch.

Another thing that has worked out excellent, is using Waterboxxes. I am very impressed with the results, and will be purchasing another 10 soon. The waterboxxes are reusable and excellent for establishing sprouted seedlings, or seedling plants directly in the ground. I believe the best way to get a plant established by seed is directly sowing in the ground, with this waterboxx it makes that possible for me.

I have so far obtained a 100% survival rate for all the plants in the waterboxx. If you go to the groasis website you can learn about how it works (I rather not try to rephrase, when you can get all the videos and reading material there).  Anyway below is the photos of the yard and results of the waterboxx.

This is a Eugenia neonitida directly sown as a small seedling about 6 months after using the waterboxx.


This is the E. neonitida with the waterboxx removed later that day and then fertilized with fish bone meal and mulched with dried oak leaves.


Another E. neonitida with the box removed.


I also took extra steps and surrounded the newly unboxed seedlings with black 40% shade cloth. I will leave this on until the end of the year and then take off in the winter (I did not do this with all plants with the waterboxx off, but wanted to ease the seedlings into non irrigated conditions (the science behind waterboxx is it helps the roots of the plant get down to the groundwater table, considering the location I believe the depth to ground water is about 8-12 feet down.

Another example of Aframomum sp., this was started as a small 4 inch seedling. After about 6 months


Aframomum sp. with box removed, no shade cloth for this one. Since the storage rhizomes and partly shaded area give me more comfort on survival. I think a lot of these fruit species are pretty tough once they find their way to the ground water. I placed a generous oak leaf mulch, another nice thing about the waterboxx, is after removal depending how it was placed it usually creates a 1/2 to 1 inch indentation (which is perfect for water collection for the plant).


I also established an Alma seedling, box was removed and mulched as well after.


Here is a Parkia bigolosa (I believe the leaves defoliated during the winter period, it seems like new leaves are coming in). Box was also removed and mulched.


Eugenia calycina (Leaving the box on longer with this one, going to wait until the leaves emerge above the box).


Two Peach Palm seedlings in the waterboxx. Keeping the box on until the seedlings grow above to the sun line. I am not sure what to do in the long term... I may let it clump since I hear Peach Palm is a clumping palm.


One of the many coconut palms producing nicely after fertilizing with slow release steak fertilizer. I also fertilized again with fish bone meal and cotton seed meal, azomite. The coconuts have been larger on average and much sweeter, excellent coconut water.


Pindo Palm, put on a little growth. I recently fertilized and remulched.


This is a unknown jabo, which was bought from wellspring a while ago. I recently cleaned up the surrounding grass and remulched shortly after photo.


I believe this is a physical graffiti dragon fruit growing up a king palm (It may be purple haze but I will have to correctly ID when I get a purple haze IDed segment next to it). The rain washed the marker off before I placed a metal tag!


Keitt mango, set a nice crop of mangoes. However anthracnose has seemed to zap some of the small fruit, not a major loss (I should still have at least 15-20 big mangoes).

Lemon Zest mango, this is doing extremely well and seems to be fast growing and disease resistant.


LZ fruit forming, going to let it hold a couple.


Glenn mango, no fruit on this but thats ok (want it to put some more size on it).


Okrung seedling, doing very well, looks extremely healthy. I chopped off about 6-8 inches of top growth after the photo, hoping I can spur more bushy form.


Cogshall, staying nice and compact. Recently cleaned up the surrounding area and remulched nicely.


Dream atemoya after remulch. Tree is looking great :).


Process done on most trees, fertilizer is cotton seed meal, fish bone meal, and azomite placed around tree then mixed into soil lightly I tried to space it off the trunk after applying to the ground (fertilizer burn should b avoided due to the lower concentrated more organic source of fertilizer used). Finished with a nice layer of oak mulch.


Sabara Jabo, located about 2 ft from the gutter  :P. Its about 6 ft from the house wall (hopefully not to close any input would be greatly appreciated, plan was to selectively prune branches away from home and toward the west side).


Ross Sapote, starting to put out some new growth


Tropical Apricot, this is doing excellent. Tough as nails and one of the fastest growers so far. May actually prune this back soon, since I want to keep it fairly compact.


Thats all for now, I will try to add some more in the next day or so.

52
Mother tree is hardy in zone 10a PSL FL, fruit is excellent quality can match a good cherimoya on a taste table. Fruit has sweet apricot flavor with custard texture with minimal grit. Seeds are smaller and have an average seed count for Annona. Will see if I can take some pictures of the mother tree.

Annona reticulata 10 seeds for $5 shipped in U.S.









53
Need help to ID this tropical fruiting plant, the tag washed off :(. Thanks for any help finding out what it is.


54
I was doing some reading and curious about espalier possibility with avocado. I ran into this from the CRFG website;

"Murrieta Green
    Origin Colima, Mexico, intro. by Juan Murrieta, 1910. Hybrid. Tree slow growing, easily trained. Fruit large, to 18 oz., oblate, green, resembling Fuerte. Flesh exceptional, oil 18%. Only cv. readily adaptable to espalier. For coast and intermediate. To 27° F. Season September. "

Was curious if anyone grew this avocado or knew any source for it?

55
I thought some of you guys may be interested in !Nara Melon (Acanthosicyos horridus). I have had this on my watch list for a few years now. It finally popped up very recently for sale at Baker Creek heirloom seeds. I tend to dig around on my favorite seed sites to see what they list for the new year.

Here is the link, pricey at $15 for 3 seeds. I am in for 2 orders, hopefully I get great germination. http://www.rareseeds.com/nara-melon-acanthosicyos-horridus-3-se/

 I am quite confident these are very rare to find. For those who don't know what !nara melon is here is a link to a pdf; http://jambo.africa.kyoto-u.ac.jp/kiroku/asm_suppl/abstracts/pdf/ASM_s30/6ITO.pdf   there are couple other websites to find info on it. Nara melon is especially interesting for CA and AZ, it may also perform well in FL (no idea really).

56
I will have a converted spot on the east side close to the home. Spacing about 6ft away from the wall. I wanted to know if breadfruit would grow nice with the foundation and proximity to the home. Reason I ask is this section of the yard is easily a 3 to 5 degree micro climate.

57
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Anyone growing Ugni myricoides?
« on: January 13, 2014, 12:07:37 PM »
I am growing Ugni myricoides now and have been growing Ugni molinae. Ugni myricoides is reported to have larger fruit and tolerant of more tropical conditions compared to U. molinae. I wanted to know if anyone has tasted the fruit of U. myricoides. I am going to update some pictures of the two plants.

58
Here are some recent pictures from the garden. I also was able to try the first FL grown prickly pear from Torrance PCH#1. Warning a lot of pictures, end of thread I will show the prickly pear with description of taste.

Don's Giant Guava


One of the unknown coconut palms


Some of the Coconuts (was drinking a good amount of coconut water)


Recently transplanted 'Sharwil' avocado. Its looking a little weakly, the rootstock suffered some sun scald in the past (I am pretty confident it will thrive in the future, if not I will regraft it to a new rootstock)


'Choquette' Avocado


'Holiday' Avocado (pugged backed)


Reed seedling (recently planted)


Dovyalis hybrid (Tropical Apricot)


'Medoccyi Vahsha' pomegranate (recently planted)


'Red Silk' Pomegranate


Macadamia seedling


'Manzanillo' Olive


'Saracena' Olive


'Luc's Garcinia'


Eugenia neonitida (Seedling, established with waterboxx)


Waterboxx have worked very well for me, 100% survivability for seedling. I have not added any irrigation besides what the unit offers through its innovative water collection. I am not using this for just recently root sprouted peach palms as well.

A view of the waterboxx with E. neonitida inside.


'Big Life' Goji Berry (Was hit back with some bugs but seems to be bouncing back now)


'GI-7-62' Jujube


'GA-866' Jujube


'Sihong' Jujube


Okrung seedling mango


'Coconut Cream' Mango


'Lemon Zest' Mango


'Cogshall' Mango


'Keitt' Mango (IDed as that)


'Glenn' Mango


I have various dragon fruit growing up the palms.


African Locust Bean (Parkia sp., seedling in waterboxx)


Aframomum sp. seedlings (in waterboxx)


'Dream' Atemoya (I am not sure if this is a Cherimoya so calling Atemoya, tree suffered some minor lawn edger damage. I have since put a tree guard around).


'Lisa' Atemoya


Annona dioce (Does fine with no added irrigation, have it off in the corner in partly shaded area)


'Sabara' Jaboticaba (located near the rain gutter discharge)


'Ross' Sapote


'Silas Woods' Sapodilla (removed the fruit after photo)


Lucuma (I think the nematodes are doing damage, I placed a generous layer of oyster mulch around it)


'Capelas' fig (The white mulch is crushed oyster shells, I have been adding around a number of plants.


'Dark Portuguese' fig


Butia sp.


'Torrance PCH#1' Prickly Pear



Here is the fruit :), Florida grown.




The taste of the fruit was very good. It was a sweet very pleasant melon flavor, with a unique but enjoyable salty flavor right near the skin! (I am assuming that this is from the plant picking up the salt from the ground and depositing some of that in the fruit near the skin.


Whats left of the fruit after me and my GF ate it. I would say a good +95% of the fruit is edible. Seed count was moderate to low, with seeds that were on the smaller side and not that hard. Excellent fruit to consider especially for late fall to winter fruit. Great smoothie fruit or fresh eating.

59
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Salak palms to close to neighbor?
« on: November 30, 2013, 09:55:19 PM »
I have two salak palm seedlings about 5ft from the property line of the neighbors yard. I was wondering if it would be an unkind burden to leave them where they are and get established.

I would hate to dig them up since they have been in the ground for 4 months. However, I have thought about the location and if it should be set back at least 10 ft into the yard.

60
I have about 7 live oak trees, from large about 20ft to smaller 7ft tall. I was thinking of doing some generous pruning for a few trees and growing dragon fruit up one or two of the oaks. On the other trees, I wanted to try out vanilla bean and maybe some orchids and some vine nuts? I figured might as well try and make use of the trees mass and space. What are your guys take on it? If I get about +5 ripe dragon fruit from a smaller trees canopy, it would be worth it.

61
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Went on a planting spree!
« on: September 04, 2013, 02:59:37 PM »
I spent the last 4 days planting up the yard. Been a lot of work digging holes, thankfully the soil is sugar sand  ;D. I left out about 15 or so other plants I planted, I forgot to take pics lol.

Pina Colada Mango (3 gal from Trees and More)


Cogshall Mango (3 gal from Trees and More)


Dream hybrid cherimoya/atemoya?


Pindo Palm (Butia capitata)


Ross Sapote


'Silas Woods' Sapodilla


'Parl 246' Opuntia ficus-indica


'Jerenimo M.V.' Opuntia sp.


'Torrance PCH #1' Opuntia sp.


Marula


hybrid Dovyalis, Tropical Apricot


Eugenia neonitida, seedling planted in ground with waterboxx




'Big lifeberry' Lycium barbarum , have a second one planted nearby


Allspice


Guava 'Don's Giant'


Okrung seedling Mango


'Choquette' avocado, been in ground for 3 months


'Lemon Zest' Mango (7 Gal from Trees and More)


'Keitt' Mango (I believe it is, came with the property).








'Glenn' Mango (In ground 3 months)


Annona tometosa


Curry Leaf


Overview shots


'Coconut Cream' Mango (in the background to the left of the shade cloth)


Lisa atemoya in the background

62
Tropical Fruit Discussion / In ground tree spacing questions
« on: August 12, 2013, 03:41:07 PM »
I had some questions on trees planted in the ground. I have a Glenn mango and a Sweetheart lychee planted around 8-9ft apart. I screwed up initially and planted to close to one another. The soil is sand with maybe 20% organic material.

I wanted to know if it would be ok to let them grow as is, or should I dig up the Glenn (it has already been established over the rain season). I don't mind doing more maintenance on the trees. I just want to know if its worth dealing with, or I will have a major problem with over shading and weak trees in the future.

63
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Julie mango before and after weekly worm tea
« on: August 05, 2013, 02:33:14 PM »
I have been growing a Julie mango since early 2011. It has been a slow grower and struggling with anthracnose from the day I got it. Before it was fertilizer once every two weeks with sea kelp powder/fish emulsion, and azomite, chelated iron, epsom salt added once every month.

It seemed to do ok, but still would revert back with anthracnose after a good flush and look sickly the rest of the year. I since gave the tree to Rodney (in May) which has been feeding it weekly worm casting tea. In addition to the sea kelp, azomite, chelated iron, epsom salt done every 2 weeks.

Here is  before
3/19/13


After
8/4/13


I noticed a huge improvement in the coloration of the leaves and vigor of the plant. The soil mix was not changed during this time period. The leaves are the largest I have ever seen them as well (8-12")


Its good to see direct results of worm castings, I am definitely a believer in its use for keeping healthy vigorous plants.

64
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Some seedling pictures
« on: July 29, 2013, 03:35:40 PM »
I figured I take some seedling pictures to share from some more exotic sub tropical/tropical seedlings.

This picture has a several seedlings in it; Yucca baccata (Square containers in center), Eurycoma longifolia (Round container in center), Parkia biglobosa (Square black container on the right)


2 Strychnos spinosa (Bottom right clear water bottle containers), Smallanthus sonchifolius, Yacon 'OE' (Center water bottle next to cactus), Dwarf Mr. Snow tomato (Black fabric container next to Catus). Lots of others that I can ID if interested.


Aframomum sp.



Myrciaria dubia (On the left), Xanthoceras sorbifolium (Two center containers), Eugenia neonitida (furest to the right), Giant yellow passion fruit, passiflora sp. (vine slightly above and to the left of Eugenia neonitida)


Mimusops zeyheri

65
I thought you guys may enjoy this, a lot of exotic/rare useful edibles mentioned in the pdf.

http://www.learngrow.org/uploads/file/Important%20Food%20Plants%20for%20Lowland%20Nigeria.pdf

From the pdf some interesting food plants; Pentadesma butyracea, Tetracarpidium conophorum, Uapaca guineensis, Parinari curatellifolia
 subsp.
mobala, Englerophytum magalismontanum

66
I ran into this thread from a person in Malaysia growing it. http://www.greenculturesg.com/forum/index.php?/topic/25377-anyone-seen-a-lychee-longan-tree/

I decided to look up the fruit after reading from one of Oscar's posts that Lychee and Longan will cross. Here are pictures posted from the above thread http://s279.photobucket.com/user/looiht/media/IMG_0028.jpg.html
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk156/looiht/IMG_0031.jpg

It looks really tasty and from the description worth growing for sure. So is anyone growing it? Or tried to cross their own Lychee trees with Longan trees?

67
I planted a healthy looking 'Sweetheart' lychee on the 6/5/13 at the new house. I did not have an irrigation line setup, and was not going to be able to personally water the tree, so I left it for my parents to water (they were very busy and this was forgotten due to the move process etc.).
6/5/13


Combined with the transplant shock and lack of extra watering during the day the tree suffered greatly.

6/23/13


I pretty much counted it out as a dead tree. Well it started to turn around as of late, due to steady heavy rains and the tree rebounding to its surroundings. 7-15-13


The mango and the avocado btw did not suffer at all with the same conditions during the same time frame.
7-5-13




Thank you rainy season and mother nature!

68
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Seedling pictures
« on: June 30, 2013, 01:11:05 PM »
Been getting good germination with the seedlings lately. Have some rare fruits and herb seedlings going.

Eugenia neonitida


Curcuma aromatica


Parkia biglobosa



Giant yellow passion fruit


Plinia edulis



Strychnos spinosa


Mimusops zeyheri


Yucca baccata


Unknown, need ID  :o

69
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Container fruit tree fertilizer schedule
« on: June 18, 2013, 03:21:29 PM »
Here is something I have been roughly following. Its still in the testing phase but it has given me great results for my container fruit trees (always keeping them nice and green and healthy).

Fertilizer schedule (This is mainly a guideline, roughly using the amounts works for me well, some plants will like more fertilizer while others do fine with less);

Once a week all the time during active growing
*Fresh worm castings water (I would do it every watering if you have it available)
*Compost tea (if available)
*Table spoon of brown sugar, molasses, or corn syrup per gal of water
*Using an air stone with the water, castings (or compost tea), and sugar source for 24 hours p prior to using supposedly increases effectiveness
*Teaspoon of mycogrow (first three watering for that plant)

Vegetative schedule every week (during vegetative cycles between March to November)
*1 tablespoon of fish emulsion per gal
*1 teaspoon of kelp powder and humic acid per gal
*1 teaspoon Yucca powder (for water absorption) per gal

Flowering/Fruiting every week during flower and fruit development (stop fertilizing 3 weeks prior to harvest)
*1 tablespoon of fish emulsion per gal
*1 tablespoon of kelp powder and humic acid per gal
*1 tablespoon of rock phosphate
*1 teaspoon of Yucca powder

Twice a year
*1 tablespoon of epsom salt per gal
*1 teaspoon of iron chelate per gal
*1 tablespoon of azomite per gal

Now what I do with these 1 gal mixes, is distribute it to the plants based on size of the plant and container size. Ex. I have a fig tree in a 15 gal container and its 5 ft tall, I am going to use the whole 1 gal mix on it. If there is a seedling in a 4 inch container, I am going to use about 2 tablespoons of mix on it.

Before applying the Vegetative, Flowering, and Twice a Year mix. I like to presoak the container with the water/castings mix or just water (as if you were just watering). Then apply the mix after that is done. Finish with a slightly watering just to wash some of it around the container and off the leaves.

I mainly use this as a soil drench, however you can use the castings and vegetative mix as a foliar spray (at night) dilute by about 1/2. This fertilizer schedule is all nature and its very hard to burn your plants. The goal of it is to feed the soil and boom the mycorrhizae populations. This works very well in an SWC because all that natural fertilizer runoff is brewing in the water reserve (its like a super fertilizer when the feeder roots get in there).

Great thing about this schedule is its very hard to burn the plants with more fertilization. If you are growing in SWC you can scale back to 1/3 as much and probably get similar results (since the water reserve prevents much wasted runoff).

70
I decided to take some pictures of the patio fruit/herb garden. A lot of seedlings and cuttings going. Rodney's worm castings are keeping everything nice and green despite the crappy city water.

Yacon, Kiwi, and others.


Yacon, Tamarillo, Prickly Pears and other cacti behind.


Tamarillo





Figs and others


Can name these later, if anyone wants me to ID the plants in the pictures.






71
I am planning out the yard so far, I have come up with this list of fruit trees. Now I have to remove those live oaks to make some room  :o. Some of these trees will be experiment like the untested avocado and pomegranate varieties (hopefully they will turn out good). If you find anything excessive tell me (I am adding extras on with the notion some will get removed from the list).

Mangoes
Keitt (already there)
NDM
Florigon
Glenn (already there)
PPK, Lemon Zest, or Coconut Cream (looking for most disease resistance)
Maha Chanok
Pickering
Valencia Pride To big

Avocados
Choquette (already there)
Brogdon (already there)
Oro negro
Sharwil
Reed
Holiday

Sapodillas
Haysa or Alano?
Molix
Silas Woods

Citrus considering growing all the citrus in containers on the bug screened patio. Perhaps the pests would be less of a problem.
Lemon
Lime
Yuzu

Peach
UF Sun
Tropic Beauty

Pomegranate
Angel Red
Eversweet
Red Silk
Elf (container)
Sverkhranniy (container or in ground)

Fig some of the figs may not perform but most have been researched for closed eye and humid condition tolerance
Zidi (container)
Panache (container)
Capelas (container)
Marseilles vs black (Maybe in ground or container)
Paradiso (container)
LSU Gold (container)
JH Adriatic (in ground)
Dark Portuguese (container)
Vista (in ground)
Carini (container)

Jujubes
GA866
GI 7-62
Shanxi Li
SIHONG
Indian/Thai Jujube

Persimmon
Hana Fuyu
Chocolate
Triumph
Winterset

Lychee
Hak Ip (Sweet Heart similar)
Mauritius
Sweetheart
Ohia

Apple
Dorsett Golden
Anna
Williams Pride

Annonas
Lisa Atemoya
Elixir Cherimoya (container for now)
Selma Cherimoya (container for now)


Pantin Mamey sapote
Lucuma
Green Sapote
White Sapote (variety maybe Subelle, Rainbow, or Redlands)
Lucuma
Ross Sapote
Abiu
Dragon Fruit (many varieties)
Cambuca
Jaboticaba
Loquat

72
I am going to be shopping for a nice Mauritius lychee in 2-3 months, I wanted to know if it was easy to find a 7gal or so size Mauritius lychee.

73
Tropical Fruit Discussion / New trees planted at the new house
« on: June 05, 2013, 01:13:58 PM »
Been very busy getting everything setup on the new house.

I went down the road and purchased 3 beautiful fruit trees from Lychee Tree Nursery. They came in 7 gal size and were a good price for what I got.

The tree lined up;


Choquette Avocado


Sweetheart Lychee


Glenn Mango



Here is the inground Keitt behind the shed


Surinam cherry hedge (I tasted the Surinam cherries and they are actually quite decent for surinam cherries especially when fully ripe). I know its just surinam cherry, I was excited to taste some considering I did not notice them before.



I also planted a  3 gal Marula tree and 3 gal Brogdon avocado on the other side of the yard, I forgot to take pictures.

Here are some other pictures of the yard;





74
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Florida grown Keitts early this year?
« on: June 03, 2013, 11:35:05 PM »
I am debating picking the Keitt mangoes from the tree in FL. I have never had home grown mangoes, just wanted to know if it was way to early. The mangoes are quite large definitely the size at least of the CA grown keitt (2 pound or so on a approximately 5yr old tree), with red blush on 25-30% of the skin.

75
Tropical Fruit Discussion / New home planting selections and tips
« on: May 31, 2013, 12:54:06 PM »
I am going to be planting some trees on Monday or Tuesday of next week. I wanted to know if there was any tips for planting in sugar sand type of soil. Should I amend with some compost? The trees were going to be planted out in PSL area zone 10a. Was planning to pine bark mulch nicely around the new trees.

I wanted to know if the trees below would survive the summer with light to moderate watering 1-2 times a week. Irrigation would not be setup yet on the trees.

Here is the list of what I was thinking of planting (tell me what you guys think);

Lychee;
Sweetheart

Mango;
VP
Glenn

Avocado;
Choquette

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