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Here’s my pics, I just broke them up in half and repotted 2 weeks ago and already fruiting and flowering. The fruits get to about twice that size. There were from seed.If the planting date in Florida is October for transplants imported from Canada. When do you think I should start my seeds indoors in September? I've had it a hundred strawberry plants donated to my experiment to see if I can get them to survive through the summer in shade. The best I can tell the going rate for plants are 80 cents a piece four times expensive as galatian remembers from back in the day🙂
The number one for me is 36-8, I wanted one for a long time, but when I bought grafted trees, they always died from shipping shock.Thanks for the info on starch I was curious about it's Vigor. A Trinidadian told me it is better than Julie so I think it's worth a Gamble.
Every other tree seems to rebound just fine however, so I'm going with bad luck.
I love the flavor, and ship-ability (thick skin and can ripen well if picked early).
Starch supposedly makes phenomenal rootstock if the scientific literature is to be believed (vigorous and highly productive).
No. But I do grow heat resistent camarosa strawberries in the winter. If you grow them in containers and put them in the shade for the winter, you can keep them alive for about three years.This is how I started this Quest my daughter bought my mother-in-law a few strawberries plants recently. I'm doing some irrigation work for someone starting a small Nursery that I know is into strawberries so I ask and they said they had a bunch that I could have but they're going out of season. I just assumed they were perennials and would make it through the summer until I started to read. So ideally if I could get some and put them in the shade and try to pamper them through summer. I may get some alpine strawberries to Tinker with. I remember as a kid picking wild strawberries that were very sweet🙂
Bo, my Kent's in the same boat. New leaves covered with Anthracnose too.Ed I'll PM you when I get home with some info of what I got but I've been asked not to discuss commercial fungicides on social media because of fungus resistance by some South Floridians
Had busy month & neglected copper spraying. Powdery mildew & less flowers then new leaves is another downer but anyway, you mentioned a systemic a while back that worked great. What was it?
I'm willing to drench with something if it works for next year.
Ed
I currently have 5 grades for ease of flowering for mango in south Florida:. A few examples provided with each category. Some are disputable as to which group they belong but this is a rough projection based on recent past behavior. Stem age plays a major role as well, and I can’t emphasize enough that you want to get your pruning done before the end of August here to avoid late flushes of growth, and to avoid over feeding the trees to lessen the likelihood of that as well.Which grade would Sonpari fall into. Contemplating on ordering some budwood to graft onto my two remaining warm winter bloom hesitant trees 🙂
Grade 1/Very Easy : These are precocious, and frequently blooming before the New Year regardless of what kind of weather we see. Rosigold, Edward, Dwarf Hawaiian, Rosa
/Grade 2/Easy : these can achieve decent blooms off less than a week below 60F depending on the age of their stems. A solid week will make most of them achieve majority blooms.
Angie, Pickering, Ah Ping, Jean Ellen, Ice Cream, Super Julie
Grade 3/ Medium some bloom after a week or less but not majority of canopy depending on stem age. 10 days with lows below 60F is typically enough to get a majority bloom.
Haden, Bailey’s Marvel, Glenn, most Thai mangos and most old Florida varieties
Grade 4/ Difficult Will flower inconsistently unless they receive multi-week cold fronts. Usually very unprecocious. Sweet Tart, Alphonso, Mulgoba, Peach Cobbler, Bombay
Grade 5/ Extremely Difficult/ Near Impossible These likely require 2+ weeks *untinterupted* lows in the 50s/40s plus optimal stem age and 6+ years of total tree maturity to achieve full blooms here(growth flush needs to be hardened off before end of August and cold front must be January or later). In reality, Most winters here they’ll either fail to bloom completely or just throw a couple panicles here or there. Sindhri, Dasheri, Gilas, Anything from northern India or Pakistan.
Groups 3 and 4 are the problem for people in Palm Beach, Broward, and Miami-Dade, and maybe even the Treasure Coast now too. Due to a lot of trees in the nursery trade being in those categories.
On the other hand, trees in group 4 and 5 should do well in California and some group 4 maybe central /West Florida
Say hello to what will be topped work to what I will call Sweet super Julie.I currently have 5 grades for ease of flowering for mango in south Florida:. A few examples provided with each category. Some are disputable as to which group they belong but this is a rough projection based on recent past behavior. Stem age plays a major role as well, and I can’t emphasize enough that you want to get your pruning done before the end of August here to avoid late flushes of growth, and to avoid over feeding the trees to lessen the likelihood of that as well.I find this thread very useful and with the undeniable trend of warmer Winters I've reevaluated and will totally top work Super Julie to one of my top tier mature trees. I will not mention the variety because Thou shalt not speak ill of the Zill but this is the second season it has failed to bloom
Grade 1/Very Easy : These are precocious, and frequently blooming before the New Year regardless of what kind of weather we see. Rosigold, Edward, Dwarf Hawaiian, Rosa
/Grade 2/Easy : these can achieve decent blooms off less than a week below 60F depending on the age of their stems. A solid week will make most of them achieve majority blooms.
Angie, Pickering, Ah Ping, Jean Ellen, Ice Cream, Super Julie
Grade 3/ Medium some bloom after a week or less but not majority of canopy depending on stem age. 10 days with lows below 60F is typically enough to get a majority bloom.
Haden, Bailey’s Marvel, Glenn, most Thai mangos and most old Florida varieties
Grade 4/ Difficult Will flower inconsistently unless they receive multi-week cold fronts. Usually very unprecocious. Sweet Tart, Alphonso, Mulgoba, Peach Cobbler, Bombay
Grade 5/ Extremely Difficult/ Near Impossible These likely require 2+ weeks *untinterupted* lows in the 50s/40s plus optimal stem age and 6+ years of total tree maturity to achieve full blooms here(growth flush needs to be hardened off before end of August and cold front must be January or later). In reality, Most winters here they’ll either fail to bloom completely or just throw a couple panicles here or there. Sindhri, Dasheri, Gilas, Anything from northern India or Pakistan.
Groups 3 and 4 are the problem for people in Palm Beach, Broward, and Miami-Dade, and maybe even the Treasure Coast now too. Due to a lot of trees in the nursery trade being in those categories.
On the other hand, trees in group 4 and 5 should do well in California and some group 4 maybe central /West Florida
My Orange Sherbet has not flowered since being planted in the ground maybe a little over 5 years now?? Very saddening to say the least.. I’ve not had any good experiences with Orange Sherbet whether it was my tree or notThe season before last I had a pretty good crop on orange sherbet but last season the bloom was mostly 80% vegetative growth and ended up only getting a half dozen fruit at best. This season what did bloom much earlier was perfect bloom but at best I may get a dozen or more. From what from what I can tell my PPK which got hit pretty hard by the freeze and I'm sure I didn't help the situation. But it is in a growth recovery mode but still seems to want to bloom. Sweet tart I've cut off all the branches to prepare for top work except one preferred branch. Was giving it the benefit of the doubt but it's doing a vegetative growth and will be removed this weekend. Not too concerned about the fruit because I have a cool cat pickleball acquaintance friend. He claims that he's going to have a banner year for sweet tart. Really not sure what his success can be attributed to. The ocean breeze or the verbal fertilizer that's inducing the bloom😡xxxx xxxx Lol. So there will be tart just not in my backyard. As a side note Malika this season and last has been less than desired
My OS was planted 3 years ago, has been a fast n steady grower. But no bloom this year, while my other mango trees are doing well. I have a nutritional plan for my OS, for this growing season.
Bovine, I’m sure that’s the reasoning and i came off like I was trashing ZHPP but I’d never do that I just meant to say they pick emI don't think you came off as trashing you were just stating common knowledge. I've heard others state the same thing. The one time I did make it there I had kind of mixed results. Little Gem wasn't what I was expecting but super Alphonso was excellent. I think if I would have had better knowledge at the time of which mangoes can be picked green I would have probably had happier 🙂
Green and Alex picks em correctly per cultivar…so my review of candy corn from ZHPP is probably way off of the actual potential of candy corn.
I currently have 5 grades for ease of flowering for mango in south Florida:. A few examples provided with each category. Some are disputable as to which group they belong but this is a rough projection based on recent past behavior. Stem age plays a major role as well, and I can’t emphasize enough that you want to get your pruning done before the end of August here to avoid late flushes of growth, and to avoid over feeding the trees to lessen the likelihood of that as well.I find this thread very useful and with the undeniable trend of warmer Winters I've reevaluated and will totally top work Super Julie to one of my top tier mature trees. I will not mention the variety because Thou shalt not speak ill of the Zill but this is the second season it has failed to bloom
Grade 1/Very Easy : These are precocious, and frequently blooming before the New Year regardless of what kind of weather we see. Rosigold, Edward, Dwarf Hawaiian, Rosa
/Grade 2/Easy : these can achieve decent blooms off less than a week below 60F depending on the age of their stems. A solid week will make most of them achieve majority blooms.
Angie, Pickering, Ah Ping, Jean Ellen, Ice Cream, Super Julie
Grade 3/ Medium some bloom after a week or less but not majority of canopy depending on stem age. 10 days with lows below 60F is typically enough to get a majority bloom.
Haden, Bailey’s Marvel, Glenn, most Thai mangos and most old Florida varieties
Grade 4/ Difficult Will flower inconsistently unless they receive multi-week cold fronts. Usually very unprecocious. Sweet Tart, Alphonso, Mulgoba, Peach Cobbler, Bombay
Grade 5/ Extremely Difficult/ Near Impossible These likely require 2+ weeks *untinterupted* lows in the 50s/40s plus optimal stem age and 6+ years of total tree maturity to achieve full blooms here(growth flush needs to be hardened off before end of August and cold front must be January or later). In reality, Most winters here they’ll either fail to bloom completely or just throw a couple panicles here or there. Sindhri, Dasheri, Gilas, Anything from northern India or Pakistan.
Groups 3 and 4 are the problem for people in Palm Beach, Broward, and Miami-Dade, and maybe even the Treasure Coast now too. Due to a lot of trees in the nursery trade being in those categories.
On the other hand, trees in group 4 and 5 should do well in California and some group 4 maybe central /West Florida
I’ve certainly had mangos from ZHPP that were mediocre and then purchased and sampled the same names cultivar at Tropical Acres farms and had a totally different opinion of the mango afterwards.I would think harvesting budwood is of the utmost priority and the fruit being picked sooner rather than later might help induce vegetative growth. I'm sure there's a practical reason for doing so.
